Let's talk about Ryokans

[rbjhan]

It seems so, although I did have all those lovely phrases you laid out for me and I practiced assiduously

I will always remember during my first visit, one young girl (no more than early 20s) in a restaurant. She came to greet me at the entrance, I spoke English ofc, 2 seconds later she ran back to the kitchen faster than Usain Bolt....
So yeah, sometimes it's just fear.

 

[rbjhan]

Right, enough of this talk.
Let's start with some examples!

In no particular order, some of my all time favourite ryokans.

Yunushi Ichijoh, Miyagi
24K Yen, Oct 19

This is their review score on IKYU as of now
Overall 4.66 (out of 5)
Room and amenities 4.63
Facilities 4.46
Service 4.79
Cuisine 4.83
Onsen 4.54
Satisfaction 4.73
I would say my feelings match the score closely.




This ryokan is in Miyagi, not too far from Sendai.
They have one shuttle bus per day picking up guests from ShiroishiZao station. I missed that one because of my own miscalculations....so I asked someone to call them to let them know I wouldn't be there on time.
When I arrived by taxi, they knew exactly who I was, 3 people came out to greet me, the male Nakai spoke quite good English.
Then I was shown this room.


I only booked an entry level Japanese room so that was a nice surprise!
*Generally I don't expect upgrades in a ryokan.

I especially loved the kotatsu!!


Service was prompt, very friendly but not overbearing.

Onsen is not their main selling point, but it was nice. Apparently this one dates back 600 years.
Oh yes, this family ryokan has been there since the Sengoku Jidai. Current owner is the 20th gen.



Note: even the new building is acutally quite old....so facilities are not great.
No lifts, for example. And many flights of stairs!

 

[rbjhan]

All guest rooms are in the new building.
Their old building is a registered National Treasure, currently used only as dining rooms.


The dinner was fantastic.






Breakfast


Even though they don't call themselves a Ryori Ryokan, I'd say Ichijoh is basically one.
However what impressed me the most, was their service. Even after 6 years, I'd still rate them to be the best I've seen.
Clearly perfected over 20 generations!

 

[rbjhan]

Bousui, Shizuoka
33K, Nov 22

The Izu Peninsula is a popular onsen destination about 100k southwest of Tokyo.
There's a very fancy special train going down from Tokyo all the way to Shimoda.
The Saphir Odoriko.

Just my luck the day I went to Izu on this train it was delayed for close to 30 mins!
So I was extra impressed when Bousui's car stopped right in front of me when I walked out of the station. How did they keep track of the train? Still no idea...

This ryokan I would say it's relatively large...


View from top floor Lobby, which was street level on the other side.


My room was on level 2.
Most of their rooms are actually Japanese style. I happened to book one that was not


Matcha and wagashi was served in the room.

 

[rbjhan]

One of their main selling point is the private onsens, there are 4 iirc...
You can book one free of charge.
It was massive!




In comparison the public bath was not very special, at all....

Dinner was also fantastic.






The best Japanese breakfast I've ever had.

 

[rbjhan]

Okyakuya, Kurokawa onsen, Kumamoto.
25K, Nov 23

Kurokawa onsen is (one of) the prettiest onsen towns in Japan, IMHO.
Deep in the Aso mountains, it's not easy to get there thus not overrun by tourists, yet.

The townscape is mostly 2 story rustic looking wooden buildings, stone stairs etc.
Ryokans here are all quite small and they don't take big groups.

Okyakuya is probably the most traditional looking one (inside out) I've stayed.


Lobby


This was a six tatami room. (there's also a toilet and that's it)


They have SEVEN baths (for 13 rooms）.
2 private baths and 5 public baths.


Both private baths looked more or less the same.....


My favourite of the lot.

 

[rbjhan]

This being Kumamoto, I didn't expect too much re dinner.


Chicken hot pot was very nice though.
You can tell it's free range!


And the basashi! @jukebox333


Almost all the ryokans in town participate in the Robenburo Meguri (tour of outdoor bath). You can buy a tegata for 1500 Yen and visit 3 ryokans for their baths.


I actually stayed in Kurokawa for 2 nights. But 2nd night's ryokan was maybe 15 mins drive away.
Okyakuya's staff drove me to the bus stop, waited outside for the other ryokan's car to come, confirmed with them it was indeed for me before handing me (plus bags) over to the other driver.
Now that was some excellent service.

If I come back here that'd be for the baths and service.