22 hours in Longreach

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henrus

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I bring to you a quick trip report across central Queensland. This was all very last minute spurred by what should have just been a one day trip to Rockhampton. In the end I decided to take some extra time off plus the weekend and tick off a few bucket list things in the process. I’d even tossed up adding in the tilt train but given the flight was really cheap and not to mention the huge time saving (7.5hrs vs 1hr), the plane it was.

It started off on Saturday afternoon from Brisbane city, an Uber was set to cost $40 (and hard to get due to the NRL game in a few hours plus riverfire later that night) so I ended up getting a train out to the airport. When purchasing a return ticket online the oneway works out at a slightly more reasonable $14.

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The train probably had about 30-40 people onboard and things were reasonably quiet at the domestic terminal at about 2pm ish.

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I ended up going through the Jetstar (central) security and there was no one around which meant I was off the train and through security in about 3 minutes. With about 30 minutes before boarding I made a quick stop to the Virgin Lounge. Again rather quiet with just 6 flights left for the rest of the day and the final departure at 5pm ash.

Food in the lounge was limited to servo pies and about 5 different cold items plus the usual packet chips/fruit etc. The chicken salad was just edible for a few bites and we’ll leave it there.

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Soon enough boarding was starting, a last minute (2 hours) aircraft switch from the 737-700 to 737-800 meant there was a significant amount of shuffling seats prior to departure (particularly related to the exit rows)

I was one of three in Business class and despite being just a 55 minute flight, the cheap $249 fares in Business class are easily justifiable being less than $70 more than economy. The extra bonus is the increased status credits compared to a Choice fare.

Even though it was a 50 minute flight there was still a meal service in Business. Two cold options either a vego Turkish bread thing or the salmon salad. Regular range of drinks although they did make an announcement saying no hot drinks due to the short flight time (not sure if this also applied business class). One other thing I thought was interesting, they announced a few economy menu items that weren’t on the menu a few sandwiches and wraps that were described as “extra perishable items”.

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I won’t bore you with my rather uneventful short time in Rockhampton mainly on Monday. But on Sunday I did catch the bus from Rockhampton to Yeppon (regular translink public bus $6.60 for the 1hr+ trip - much cheaper than the rip off car rental), met up with some poeple and then the ferry over to Great Keppel Island (being a last minute work trip it was fully booked on the island and hard to find anything in Yeppoon due to the school holidays hence just a Sunday day trip).

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(Onboard the bus to Yeppon from Rockhampton)


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Now something I’ve been wanting to go for a while has been the Qantas Museum and Stockmans Hall of Fame in Longreach. Despite living in Brisbane it’s rare for me to travel anywhere in Queensland other than South East Queensland or Cairns and it’s surprisingly hard to get out there to Longreach.

It's a 13 hour 1179km drive from Brisbane which isn’t that appealing, the train is worse at 24 hours and all the sleeper options are basically booked out for the rest of the year (which means 24 hours in a standard seat). This leaves just a 2 hour Qantas link flight but annoyingly it’s often very expensive (especially around weekends), whilst you can get sale fares for ~$200 more often then not it’s about $420 for a oneway flight.

Despite Rockhampton still a huge distance (7hrs 687km) from Longreach I was determined to see if I could figure something out and take a few days off in the process. Unfortunately Longreach airport only has flights from Brisbane and a weird Rex service from Townsville but I had a small window from Monday evening but had to be back in Brisbane on Thursday.

The train from Rockhampton to Longreach was out due to the terrible departure times leaving Rockhampton at either 4:40am on a Wednesday morning or 1:03am on a Sunday morning. I even considered a rental car but the eye watering one way one day rental was $600 (not to mention I’d have to drive it). In one last search Rome2rio pointed out a Greyhound service which fitted in perfectly with the schedule an 8am departure from Rockhampton for a 9hr trip arriving Longreach at 5pm. A fully flexible ticket was ~$100 due to a sale at the time.

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There are several hotels near the airport although space was limited so I locked one in and then finally it was a flight home. My initial google flights search revealed it was going to be $417 but amazingly there was a reward seat for 8000 points + $51 taxes which is about as good as it gets for QF domestic redemptions. This would give me ~21 hours in Longreach and the ability to tick off a bucket list item of going to the Qantas museum. I’d been hoping that Qantas would do a mystery flight style day trip to Longreach aboard either a 737 or Dash 8 and whilst they’d hinted at it, with international travel potentially opening up they seem to be focusing on that right now.

On Tuesday morning I set off from the hotel and walked about 1km down to a petrol station on the Bruce highway, I arrived about 10 minutes before departure armed with snacks and no idea what to expect from a 9hr bus ride. Luckily I had the seat next to me free for the entire trip and everyone could reasonably spread out with just 9 people booked on the 48 seat bus. Later in the trip I got chatting to the bus driver and apparently the record for the Rockhampton to Longreach route is only 30 people. It was my first time ever on a Greyhound bus and I was rather impressed, it had a clean loo up the back, free unlimited wifi (limited by Telstra’s speeds/reception) and a USB power socket at each seat.

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(Greyhound Bus Seating - If I had to guess I'd say it was around 31-32")
 
The first stretch was about 2 hours followed by a short 10 minute stop in Dingo. A tiny town of just 340 people but as is common in regional QLD petrol stations they sold everything.

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(Dingo Servo)

This was followed by another 1hr and 20 minutes to Emerald. Emerald was the first and only scheduled meal break for the trip, here it was about 35 minutes to get off and grab some lunch. It wasn’t really enough time for lunch at one of the three pubs across the road but the bakery down the road had reasonable pies which were suitable for lunch. During the stop at Emerald I got talking to the driver and ended up doing so for the remaining ~5 hours though to Longreach. None of the stops are related to a fuel stop given the bus has an 800L tank that is sufficient to get it from Rockhampton to Longreach and back (with ~250L to spare).

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(Road out of Emerald)

We did end up making some brief stops at Alpha (town of 335 people) for about 10 minutes and then Barcaldine for another 10 minutes. The Barcaldine stop was great as I was able to get off and have a look at the train station, an old windmill (with the sign saying it’ll pump in speeds as low as 3km/h) and finally the Tree of Knowledge.

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(Alpha servo)

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(Barcaldine Windmill)


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(Barcaldine Rail Station)

For those who don’t know the Tree of Knowledge is considered the place the Australian Labor Party formed. The first manifesto was read out at the site in 1892 with the original document still in the State Library of Queensland (in Brisbane). The tree was poisoned in 2006 using roundup so today the remains of the tree stand preserved under a structure that has won a few architectural awards which opened in 2009.

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(Tree of Knowledge)

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(Tree of Knowledge Structure)

Finally it was back on the bus for one final hour through to Longreach. Leaving Barcaldine we saw quite a few emu's however when every I got my phone out to take a photo it was always to late. We arrived bang on time at 5:20pm and were greeted by a significant downpour which passed in about 5 minutes. I took a quick stroll up and down the Main Street before popping into the Bird Cage Hotel (a pub). It wasn’t a classic old school hotel and felt more like an RSL but there are limited dining options on a Tuesday night (and just in general). A couple of beers plus the $20 T-Bone special later and I was ready for bed.


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(Rain on the way into Longreach)

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(Pouring Rain in Longreach)

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(Rainbow in Longreach)
 
Enjoyed your report Henrus.
Often travel out west to to Tambo but on Friday have to fly to Blackall
to pick up a station vehicle to bring back to the Gold Coast. Blackall is 200 odd k's short of Longreach and the Qantas fare was $427 one way. Considered points but the ask was out of the question.
 
Whilst the pub does offer a free shuttle to anywhere in town, I decided to walk the ~1.5km since I’d been on a bus for 9 hours plus the temperature had dropped to a nice 27 degrees after the rain.

For the night I'd booked a night at the Saltbush Retreat for $180, accomodation in Longreach was limited and everything was around the ~$150-200 price although there are some fancier clamping style setups out of town plus even at the place I stayed at. This was the family room (all that was left under $200 for the night I wanted). Regardless it was very convenient the next morning as you could see the 747 from the balcony and it was a quick 5 minute walk the next morning.

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(Just some smaller photos of the accommodation for the night, I ended up with a family room and do excuse my shoddy bed making - I promise the room didn't come with the bed like that).


I had booked myself in for the 747 wing walk tour but you also have to buy a separate extra ticket for museum entry, in total it worked out at $100, $70 for the tour and $30 for entry.

I spent about an hour before the 747 tour having a look at the museum, it comprised of one main room inside with a handful of aircraft + lots of displays (old tickets/timetables etc) then the original hanger with with some older aircraft (some of which were replicas). Now I had assumed that you could also walk around the bottom of the 747/707 as apart of museum entry but this turned out to be an extra tour so you really need to book the museum and airpark tour for $67. It isn’t 100% clear on their website and I should have read some more reviews (other people have made the same mistake).

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(747 engine inside the museum building)

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(Inside the large museum area)

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(Old 747 upper deck lounge)

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(Inside the original Qantas hangar - you can actually climb the steps and sit inside the aircraft).

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(Side view of an engine - I can't remember exactly which one this was).

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(Catalina flying boat)

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(Beacon on top of the original hangar).

The beacon above has an interesting story, in short back before GPS or anything remotly similar was in existent all flying had to be done during the day during clear weather as naviagation was done based on landmarks. They came up with a system to allow for night flights from Brisbane to Longreach by placing beacons (basically large strong lights) every 100km, the idea was that during night operations they could take off and follow the flight to the next beacon. They've kept this beacon on top of the original hangar, but because it's just a sign in the hangar pointing it out I'm sure many would miss it.
 
Now back to my rant earlier, it turned out to be a moot point as when entering the 747 you walk around the airpark anyway so I got to see most of the same things (except for going onboard the 707). For those looking to see and do everything they have a platinum package for $195 per person which includes it all plus the ability to got for a wing walk on the 707.

Anyway enough ranting about the confusing tours/packages, on to some of the photos around the air park.

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First stop on the 747 was sticking our head up into the APU area (sadly my photo here turned out blurry).

Then onboard a look through the cabin, flight deck, engineering bay, cargo hold.
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(Down in the engineering bay - the red handle can be used to manually lower the landing gears).

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(Front cargo hold - on the tour this is accessed from the engineering bay).

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(Business Class)

Then it was into a harness and out on to the wing.
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It ended with the ability to stand in the engine before a quick trip up to the new observation deck.
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(Looking out over the current runway).

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(Current terminal)

In all the 747 wing walk was a great experience, I’d probably have booked the platinum package but given the short notice of the trip it was unavailable with many tours booking out months in advanced.

At this point it was about 12:30pm and I had a flight at 2:30pm back to Brisbane. I’d thought about going to the Stockmans Hall of Fame but with just two hours to kill I guess I’ll have to save that for a distant next time.

I had a long lunch in the cafe attached to the Qantas museum and despite having a limited menu I was still able to get a steak sandwich and a beer.
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(Catering at the Qantas museum)

The airport is a short 800m 10 minute walk from the Qantas museum and a sealed footpath now links the airport all the way into the center of Longreach (well almost - they were pouring the last few slabs near the airport this morning).

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(Road out to the airport passes the 747)

On the way I saw some final tumbleweeds. The bus driver pointed them out on the way in and they line the fences around town plus were scattered around the airport including some on the runway they were out clearing before the plane landed.
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(here's one close up - see if you can spot them all lining the fence in the next photo)

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I arrived about an hour prior to scheduled departure to a rather basic terminal. There is no security and no cafe so no need to arrive early although check in does close 30 minute sharp (I sat and watched the staff close it bang on).

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The Qantas club is yet to make it's way to Longreach but there are plenty of seats given the most they usually get is a Dash 8-400.

The plane does a loop going Brisbane - Blackall (25 minute stop) - Longreach (25 minute stop) - Brisbane and due to some thunderstorms around Blackall it was about 10 minutes late but finally we got onboard. I lucked out with one of seven spare seats next to me.

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Qantas link catering was limited as usual with just a single option of biscuits and 1hr 50 mins later we were back in Brisbane. As Longreach doesn’t have security screening it was a long bus ride to the landslide drop off point at Brisbane Airport (behind the Jetstar check in for those familiar with Brisbane).

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(Current extent of the Qantas Link catering - plus the normal non alcoholic drinks service).

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(Into Brisbane).

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(Average weather)

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(A Qantas 787 and A330 parked up at the old international terminal area. In the middle left is the Pacific Air 757 [for sale if anyone wants to buy it]).

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(Plus an array of 737s and an E190 parked up).

Trains are every 15 minutes to the City on weekday peak and sure enough as I headed up to the station to use my return ticket a train arrived.
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(A very quite Virgin valet area - I wonder if it'll ever return).

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(Dreadful photo but from the train saw one of Brisbane's regular covid-era international visitors, the Qatar Airways 777 from Doha).

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(Otherwise very quiet international terminal - the Qantas 737 parked up at gate 73 for tomorrows Norfolk Island flight).
 
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(Red Zone).

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(Unique visitor to Brisbane thanks to the IFAM support - Fed gov is subsiding some routes - you can see what they're charging here )


Overall it was a fun and crazy trip. Obviously I could have just flown back home from Rockhampton but then I wouldn't have got to travel 9 hours by bus crossing almost 700km of QLD overland. I'd say for anyone who likes planes (yes I'll admit I'm a bit of a plane nerd) the museum was worth it but others may find it a bit boring particularly just the inside of the museum. Now that I've done the one thing I really wanted to do in Longreach I won't be back for a while (and yes I know there are many other things to do), I've got a list of other things to do in QLD but with international travel potentially on the cards I think it might be a while yet.
 
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Great report! Nice crisp pics, too.
Cheers, glad you enjoyed. All photos were just taken with the trusty phone camera.

Enjoyed your report Henrus.
Often travel out west to to Tambo but on Friday have to fly to Blackall
to pick up a station vehicle to bring back to the Gold Coast. Blackall is 200 odd k's short of Longreach and the Qantas fare was $427 one way. Considered points but the ask was out of the question.
Yep the fares aren't cheap, they're not the worst in Australia and imagine without the QLD gov support they'd be much worse (if existent at all).

I've never really done much travel around Western/Central Queensland and Carnarvon Gorge is next on the bucket list.

Obviously this trip was all based around going to the Qantas museum and ticking off Longreach but I am keen to do more around QLD. By sounds of it you've done quite a bit of travel (or at least driving) through QLD so if you've got any suggestions I'm all ears open.
 
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I am booked to be in LRE in mid-December.

But - from PER, it ain't going to happen. 🤬

Thanks for the TR and heads-up on the visit packages. One day...
 
I am booked to be in LRE in mid-December.

But - from PER, it ain't going to happen. 🤬

Thanks for the TR and heads-up on the visit packages. One day...
Check this out in autumn:
 
Thanks for your great trip report. I was lucky enough to visit Longreach and the Qantas museum in July this year. One tip for anyone planning to visit the museum is to make sure that they see the movie screened in the back corner of the original hangar. It explains in detail how Qantas came to be formed and the amazing story of an overland trip from Longreach to Darwin in a T Model Ford by the 2 founders of Qantas, Fish & Baird. An epic adventure in every sense. This movie makes sense of a lot of the exhibits in the main museum.
 
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