24 days in Japan

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Hvr

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The morning started early in Canberra at 4.00am waking up and preparing for my first overseas trip in 14 years! It was Tuesday morning on 29 January and we’d had a few hot days so the coolness of the morning was welcome. Called the taxi at 5.00am and a few minutes later was on the way to CBR AP the scene of many, many early morning departures but this one was different, I was on leave and travelling for pleasure.

Went to check in and there was already a large crowd there. The joys of checking in at the business class line are never more welcome than mornings like this. The day after a public holiday are never really good to travel but here I was.

As is usual on the first plane out of CBR it was packed, was allocated 17D, at least it was an aisle on the short trip to MEL QF795 departing at 0640. Have done it way too many times. Asked the GA for the exit row aisle for my connecting flight QF179 to NRT, he tried but unable to do so, however he did suggest I try at the MEL pub. Bag checked through all the way. Through security very easily, timing my walk away from the belt until the explosive sniffer had someone else to practise his craft on.

Up to the CBR pub and greeted the lady at the desk and asked if it would be possible to get my seat changed on QF179 to either 45B or 45J. She said I should leave it with her and get my boarding passes from her on the way out.

Went and had my usual breakfast here, fruit and hot chocolate. I cannot enter this place without meeting someone I know and of course today was no exception. The first person I met proudly proclaimed she was on leave and heading to BNE for a week and asked about my trip. Oh, Japan for 24 days I mentioned ever so casually. That was the end of that conversation.

Anyway passed a leisurely hour or so having a nice breakfast and reading the magazines with the newspapers not yet having arrived. Finally the time has come and the flight to MEL is called, as I walk near the front desk I am motioned over and with a big smile on her face the lady advises me that she was able to secure 45J for me. Things are looking good, thanked her profusely and did the flying bus trip to MEL. Didn’t eat the breakfast, can’t remember what cereal it was but the milk was nice and cold. Plane was 100% full.

Arrive at MEL and there was a copy of The Age still available for disembarking pax, well I was disembarking just not at that gate, but I still took it.

The joys of MEL AP are many, the ability to have a short walk and transfer to the international terminal undercover are just one of them. It certainly aided my decision to fly CBR-MEL-NRT rather than via SYD, that and the fact that when I purchased the ticket in August it was slightly cheaper to travel via MEL as well as getting more FF points, 325 more each way to be exact.

So I enter the international terminal and make my through Immigration and security without a blimp on the screen, my little bag with 3 liquid items was barely looked and then run the gauntlet of duty free shops Don’t need them I already have my new Canon 70-300mm IS lens thank you very much.

Oh bloody hell I needed to go to Customs and the tourist refund scheme (TRS). Have no idea where it is and seeing two friendly Federal police I ask them. They tell me that I’ve already passed it and need to go out the security exit and point out the guard I need to speak to. Quite friendly and efficient, no blame or carry on, just the facts.

The guard listens to my tale of getting lost and after ascertaining that I haven’t purchased anything duty free nor have I purchased/obtained any liquids (which would have to be forfeited) opened the gate and pointed me in the right direction, just near the security screening. Again a very friendly person and after sighting the lens and receipt, processed the refund. I returned through the security screening, this time my carry on luggage, a backpack got two goes through the machine but no comments. Just as I get through the Customs lady from TRS called to me and handed me my paperwork, I had left it in the counter and she chased me down to give it to me.

So down to the international pub where I welcomed and started eating again. It was virtually empty, about 15-20 people. Ate some more fruit and a couple of cans of lemonade, my last for a long time. Some hot pastry was served and a couple of these helped fill a gap. Remember I have been up since 0400 and it was now approaching 0900, hunger was kicking in and there was a long days flying still to come.

Had a 1010 departure and once the flight started flashing on the screen I headed off to the plane. A slight delay in boarding, about 10 minutes but I was still one of the first whY pax to board, having your passport and boarding pass ready helps. Greeted with a smile as I boarded and casting an envious eye on the business class seats I walked to my coveted exit row aisle seat 45J. The advantage of being one of the first on board is that you get to put your luggage above you.

There is a little luggage locker right above my seat and I claimed it. My backpack fits perfectly in there, this is my locker on this trip. I shut the door. A couple of other pax open it to try and put their bag there but upon seeing it full close it and move on. Eventually my seatmate arrives, this could be awkward, two big (183cm+, >100kg) blokes but turned out really well. He ended up having to put his bags about 3 rows back.

The plane was refuelling and we were told not to put our seatbelts on, too late have already done it. We sat there for about 30 minutes and ended up leaving about 35 minutes late. Still I had room to stretch the legs and did so with relish. Not long after take off and just after the seat belt sign went off an FA came over and greeted me by name and asked if there was anything I needed. Just me, so I asked for and received a hot chocolate, it was delivered a couple of minutes later. Maybe SG status does get a greeting if there aren’t many/any WPs on board. Still, a very nice way to start the flight.

AVOD worked perfectly and I viewed a couple of documentaries including one on identity theft. Definitely something to be careful of and take appropriate precautions. By the time they got to us for the first meal there was only fish left. On a scale of 1-10 I’m about a 2 for fish. Still I picked at it and was glad I had already eaten a couple of breakfasts. Got some sleep and then some more AVOD viewing, soon it was time for the next meal.

This time they started the meal service from row 45 and I got my first choice, but cannot remember what it was, sorry no photos. Ian the FA sitting in the jump seat opposite me was a great bloke and very easy to talk to, especially when taxiing into NRT. This took about 10 minutes. Purchased some duty free chocolate for my friend during the flight. This would be our first meeting after nine years. Unique Australian flavours such as quandong which went down very well.

Got off the plane very quickly and walked a long way in the terminal before boarding the train to immigration and customs. Immigration was very quick with personnel ensuring that everyone went to the right lines. Again a very quick process with a correctly filled out form, two quick fingerprints which I vehemently disagree with, but no choice in the matter, as for the photo, well if your camera can survive taking my photo well you can have it.

Through to the baggage carousel and after waiting for a couple of minutes at the wrong one, went to the correct carousel and stopped my case from going around for another circuit. Those business tags must’ve worked because there were a lot of people waiting and not looking at me in a friendly way. Another short wait at Customs, was asked if this was my luggage, a quick ‘yes sir’ and I was officially in Japan.

Went to the front desk to ask where to catch the bus to the Holiday Inn, shown a map, pointed in the right direction and told it was due at 1950. Too easy, naturally I took a wrong turn somewhere and ended up at the wrong bus stop but was able to figure it out fairly easily and got to the correct stop. A note here, I can get geographically embarrassed anywhere, I have gotten lost in many, many places in AUS. Getting lost in Japan was not a challenge.

It was 3 degrees, lovely weather, especially if you hate hot weather with a passion as I do. The bus arrived on time and after warning the driver that my case was heavy (about 23kilos) was on my way. The bus trip, whilst quick was very circuitous compared to the return trip next morning. Upon arrival we were urged to enter the hotel and told our cases would be taken in for us. All six check in desks were staffed ready for arriving guests. Again a very quick check in with my printed reservation details in my hand, a photocopy of my passport and I was handed my door card. This was preceded by an almost apologetic request from the desk lady and her pointing to a sign that it was Japanese law and could she please photocopy my passport.

I went to get my case and was asked for my room number so that it could be delivered to my room. A couple of minutes later it was there, no hanging around for a tip, just delivered and have a good evening sir and good night.

The room itself was what I expected when I booked, basic with a bed and a bath, nice and big which I indulged in before retiring for the evening. Had breakfast next morning ¥1500 and then caught the bus back to NRT to get the train into Tokyo. Had to show my passport at a police stop when getting near the airport.

Geez why are people so dumb? The driver asked us to have our passport ready so everyone except one person did. The police officer treated it as a perfunctory job she had to do, but of course there is always one person who didn’t have her passport ready and it took a fair bit of explaining by the police officer that she needed to see it. Again done efficiently and quietly, I was sitting on the opposite row and got to see this New Zealand woman either acting dumb or really being dumb.

Took the Keisei express to Ueno and then a subway to Ginza. The Japanese know how to run a train system, the whole Australian system could do worse than to import their expertise.

Anyway, next up my time in Tokyo and then flying from Haneda to Sapporo.
 
So I arrive at Ueno and change onto the subway system. I stand there looking at the ticket machine for a minute or two until a kind hearted Japanese woman tells me to put some money into the machine and you then get fare options. Onto the Ginza line and travel until I get to the G04 station, no need to learn Japanese, just count down the numbers until you get to your station. There are of course English signs and announcements made so it is really easy to get around. Too simple and very practical, get out at Aoyama Itchome Subway Station and get confused at the myriad exits. Of course I choose the wrong one, walk around for awhile and get lost (again!). Jump into a taxi and a few minutes later I am at the Hotel Asia Centre of Japan.

It is close to everything and about ¥8,000 per night for a single. Small room but it has a comfortable bed, a bath, television and free Internet if you have a computer. I stay there for a few nights and enjoy the sites of Tokyo. A trip to the Imperial Palace with a volunteer guide was excellent as were a couple of other short trips about this wonderful metropolis. It snowed on Sunday 03 Feb and I had a ball walking around taking heaps of photos. Apparently lots of flights were delayed and there were several accidents, I saw a few wrecked cars being towed away.

During my time in Tokyo I also visited the Tokyo Tower at night, going to the first level was great for photos, the second slightly higher level wasn’t worth going to. A trip to Odaiba was worth it to see the Toyota exhibition and to drive around for about 20 minutes for ¥300, just remember to take your international drivers permit. Book upon arrival because you may not get a drive for a couple of hours. However there is still plenty to see around there until your time to drive arrive.

Odaiba is on the sea and desperately trying to work out want it wants to be, seaside amusement town, high tech amusement area or what. However, I found it to be worth the trip. There is a Ferris wheel there that provides a great view of the area including Tokyo. I went on the totally transparent cabin just for the thrill of it (yes I lead a sad life.
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Tuesday 05 February and time to head to Sapporo on JL525. I booked this ticket as part of the OneWorld visit Japan fares, this scheme allows you to purchase up to five domestic flights in Japan for ¥10,000 (approximately A$100) each. So a quick trip to Haneda airport using the monorail, quick and cheap and right to the door. Why can’t other countries bring the Japanese to run their public transport systems? Melbourne I’m looking at you here!

Head to the first class check in counters courtesy of my OneWorld Sapphire status. A quick look at my Qantas SG card and the check in lady smiles even more broadly and asks if I have had my case security scanned at the X-ray machine? I had missed it but because it was reserved for the first class check in there was no one waiting. She went to help me carry it there but I wasn’t going to let her strain her back with my oversized case. A quick X-ray and back to the counter.

No paper work or identification required. Just my Qantas card to extract the flight details. I politely asked for the exit row aisle, she looked at me not understanding my broad Australian accent. I tried again asking for the seat for long legs. Another big smile and she changed my seat to the exit row aisle, 9H. A little different process here with the BP, a quick reinsertion into the machine and the new seat number is shown. The baggage check is handed to me with a reminder to look after it. My case was 25 kilograms, the advertised limit is 15 kilograms for JAL domestic. Not a word was said. Elite tags were put on the case and I next saw it in Sapporo.

Off through domestic security and looking for the lounge. I’ve written previously about the courteous and efficient security staff in Japan. I put everything into the backpack, a quick scan and through I go. Smiles all around and a thank you sir, appropriately responded to with a big smile and a thank you as well.

I walk along the hall, huge and spotless, spot the smoking lounge and am thankful that I don’t smoke. It looks horrible and I’m sure they could carve the smoke and sell it as bricks.

I spot a lounge and go to the door dragon, he asks for my Visa card. I ask him why, saying that I thought I was able to enter as a OneWorld Sapphire, sorry sir the JAL Lounge is the other way near gate 14. Made my apologies and went to the right gate where upon showing my BP and card which were scanned I entered the lounge. Very basic food, some cold meat and crackers, fruit juice and water. Still I filled in the time by reading the English language newspapers.

Very efficient staff who wiped the bench if a drop was spilled or a crumb dropped. My glass was barely empty before it was collected. It should be noted that today was the first day of the Snow and Ice Festival in Sapporo and every flight was full. With a flight leaving every 30 minutes there was going to be a crowd in Sapporo.

I left the lounge just before when the flight was due to be called and headed to the gate. Just missed the elite pre-boarding but was the first person aboard in the general boarding. A quick bus ride to the plane where we waited a couple of minutes until a JAL staff member walked over to the plane and told them to hurry up because there was a bus load of us waiting to board. Then boarded and got to my seat. Again backpack up top and settled down to enjoy the passing parade of my fellow pax boarding.

One of the last people to come into the cabin was the gentleman seated beside me (window). A quick taxi and we’re off. It was about a 90 minute flight. A total of 512 FF points and 20 SCs. Quite a good $ to SC ratio here! No food service on JL domestic flights, just a drink of juice. Two or three if you really wanted them. What was amazing though was that the FAs practically did a complete uniform change when preparing for the drink service and then changed back again to be ready for landing. Wonder how they cope on the short flights?

Landing was smooth and a quick disembarkation ensued. My case was off the plane very quickly and then I had to show and surrender the baggage claim to leave the arrival room.

A quick walk to the train platform and I place my case at the end of the carriage and prepare for the 40 minute journey to Otaru-Chikko to see my friend from my undergraduate days many years ago. Again another pleasant train journey and I get to see quite a few suburbs and open land. Upon arrival I meet my friend and am taken to where I’ll be staying for five nights.

Next day we visit the Snow and Ice festival, just wonderful and for someone who first saw snow just a few days ago in Tokyo I am impressed. Five days here and I have a truly fantastic time. All too soon it is back to the airport to travel to Hiroshima, JL3406, again with a OneWorld discount fare of ¥10,000. Again boarded at the F desk and no comments when my luggage hit 28kg. A quick security check and I’m off. Saying goodbye to my friend meant I didn’t get to use the lounge. I didn’t go through until I had to get ready to board. As my BP went through the boarding gate something beeped and the lady looked at the screen, smiled and handed me the luggage check I had left at the check in desk. Very efficient and no fuss, top level customer service to ensure I didn’t have any problems getting my case out of the baggage claim.

This trip generated 30 SCs and 747 FF points. This is good value for SCs. A near empty flight in 39A (exit row again) and when it was apparent that no one was sitting next to me I asked the FA if I could move to 39B once we took off, was invited to do immediately. Slept a bit and then talked to the FA who spent a year in Sydney during her high school education. She was happy to practise her English during the trip and we had a nice conversation.

Why HIJ? Well it was the longest domestic trip from CHS I could find. Also, it was a good point to start the train trip back to Tokyo and use my JR pass. Stayed at the Hotel Granvia right next to the station, but didn’t hear a train at all. About ¥10,000 per night. Mention you have a JR pass and get a slightly lower rate. My booking through JapanHotel.net didn’t come through, wasn’t charged and the hotel bettered the rate anyway.

Two nights there, enough time to see the Peace Park and Miyajima Shrine and onto Kyoto where I spent four nights. During my time here I visited Nara, Horyuji, Himeji and the Kyoto Imperial Palace, again it snowed in Kyoto. In Kyoto I stayed at the Tower Inn Annex. Very close to the station and all I needed. Don’t forget to pick up your free pass to the Kyoto Tower. About ¥30,000 for the four nights.

Then it was time to head back to Tokyo. On the train and settle down for the journey back. Got a couple of pictures of My Fuji through the window.

Once in Tokyo I checked into the hotel and got ready for the next few days of hard travelling. Sunday was spent at Kamakura, Monday I went to the Snow Monkeys at Yudanaka, Tuesday was spent at Nikko, and Wednesday at Matsumoto. All day trips with a lot of train travel and I suspect that I used the total value of the JR Pass in just a few days here. My last day in Japan was spent taking in local sights and a couple of purchases for gifts. Time to head back to the airport and come home.

Got to Tokyo station looking lost (still!) and a bloke (thanks B, you know who you are and it was appreciated!) asked me if I was headed for NRT, when I said yes he said follow me and we raced to the platform and just made the train. Top bloke and he was also headed for AUS, SYD actually so we talked a bit until we got to the airport and both headed to the queue to check in.

When I booked this trip I was hopeful of getting an upgrade to business on the return trip. I hate overnight flights and was desperately seeking a nice seat to sleep. Into the airport and up to the Qantas check in desks, a huge queue and again reason to enjoy checking in via the business class line. Staff there guiding people to the appropriate line and generally looking after everyone with a minimum of fuss.

Show my SG FF card and passport and ask if my upgrade had come through. Click, click, tap, tap but sadly not, asked if the exit row aisle was free. Again sadly not. The GA looked as sad as I felt, still what can she do? 23J here I come.

To be continued.

Next NRT-MEL-CBR in whY.
 
So there we were, she was feeling sorry for me and me assuring her that I did appreciate her efforts when she made a statement and then asked a question which led to the following conversation.

Her “You are going to CBR via MEL, would you please be able to go via SYD because the flight to MEL is very full?”

Me having a lucid moment that some will argue is all too rare “Am I able to go in Business Class please?”

Her “You will go to CBR via SYD in Business Class?”

Me “Yes please.”

Her “I will need to check with my supervisor, please wait here a moment.”

Me “Thank you”.

After a couple of minutes she returns:

Her, with a big smile “Yes sir I am able to seat you in Business Class for the trip to SYD”.

Me with an even bigger smile “Thank you very much, it is most appreciated”.

Click, click tap tap, and she hands me the BP for seat 6B, I am classed as an “Involuntary transfer” onto QF22 to SYD and then to CBR. I am given directions to the Business Class lounge airside (which I could’ve gone to anyway). Thank her profusely, again, say goodbye and make my way airside.

Through security and Immigration, very quick and painless. Linger in the area there and see a lady staffing an information desk. I see there are several rubber stamps there and take out my travel diary and get one of each. Five in all, it is something I have done in many places throughout Japan and makes a unique entry to remember where I have been.

She asks me about my trip and I tell her, honestly that I have had a wonderful time in Japan. The people are very proud of their country and happy to help me whenever and wherever I got lost. I was more than happy to assist people practice their English where required. My holiday was a truly wonderful experience and adventure.

I purchase some duty free chocolate as I go through, a box of green tea Kit Kats. That’s everyone in the office covered and make my way to the lounge. A quick train trip and into the lounge. Met up with B again as we had arranged, he is sitting two rows in front of me on the trip home. Not much to eat there, rolls with meat and cold water. As a teetotaller I wonder why the emphasis on alcohol and the complete lack of soft drinks.

All too soon it is time to board and enjoy my seat to SYD. As mentioned previously I am an early boarder and I enjoyed turning left where the walkway divides and head to the front of the plane. I meet up with the rest of the people half way through business as the FA holds them back for me to walk to my seat three rows along.

It is huge, I place my backpack and chocolate in the overhead locker and sit down. I’m not touching the sides! Oh my this is going to be good. There is a dinner and breakfast menu, blanket and pillow on the seat. Looking good. My seat mate soon arrives, we introduce ourselves and soon settle down to enjoy our trip home. Once everyone is aboard we are offered a drink, water for me and my seat mate is most appreciative as he gets the very last glass on the tray with champagne. A newspaper is on offer, that mornings’ Sydney Morning Herald, brand new and dying to be read. I’ve missed my Australian newspaper so this is a real treat.

We are asked for our completed breakfast menus so that when we wake up we can have breakfast served. The CSM comes around the cabin and introduces himself, very nice touch. The noise reducing headphones are very nice and I settle down to watch something on the AVOD. Pretty soon the pyjamas and amenity kits are handed out. Most people, including myself change into their pyjamas, it’s like a slumber party in the cabin.
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I choose the chicken for dinner and the full table service is provided. A soft drink with dinner and then a hot chocolate, just delightful. I am starting to lay my seat flat when the FA asks if I would like dessert? I ask what it is and she replies “cake and ice cream”. Well I am convinced and she helps me put the seat upright again to partake of this fine food.

I then lay flat to sleep, and sleep I do for several hours. I awake briefly, move the seat adjustment slightly and quickly go back to sleep. When I wake up my seatmate is having breakfast and the FA seeing me awake asks if I would like mine now. Yes please and pretty soon it appears. I notice a small jam jar and recall asking for Vegemite with my toast. The FA apologises and says they have run out. I mention that I have been away for 24 days and am suffering from withdrawal symptoms. Sad look on my face and all. She smiles, asks for the jam and says she will see what she can do, a minute later she returns with a small tub of Vegemite. Can life get any better? Many thanks to her for finding it. It just capped off a wonderful trip.

A very quiet landing and taxi up to the gate and we are able to depart. I gather my carry on bags and backpack and head off to immigration. Through very quickly and off to customs. I pass through the duty free and get some alcohol for the family. Upon arrival at the baggage carousel my case is one of the first off. I take it with a smile and head to the customs line.

Now I have ticked lots of ‘yes’ answers here and anything could happen. Yes to >$900 worth of duty free goods (remember the camera lens in the first instalment?), yes to food (chocolate) and wood (small souvenirs for the family) and yes to having been in rural areas. There are signs that Border Security is filming and that if you don’t want to be filmed to see the camera crew. Didn’t see them at all.

At the start of the customs line the officer asks to see my form and asks what did I have that was worth more than $900 and how much was it. I tell him about the camera lens ($980). He asks when I purchased it? In January just before I departed, he then declares that it has devalued to below the limit. He then initials the form, thanks me and moves on. I get to the head of the queue and the customs officer there, noting that I have food, wood etcetera directs me to the counter where there is a bench for me to put my case.

I head over there and the lady greets me and asks to see what I have. I open the suitcase and pull out a large plastic box with the food and wood. I pull the lid off and she asks if she can look at the contents. Please do is my reply. She very gently handles the contents, looks at the wrapped food and declares she does not need them unwrapped, I show her the wooden articles. Again no problems. I have by this time gotten one of my boots out to show her and she asks where I have been, when I tell her the snow monkeys of Yudanaka she asks me about them saying she wanted to visit there one day. A quick look to see it is clean and I am thanked and on my way. No fuss or bother.

It took about 30 minutes from disembarking to clearing customs. Treated very well and the personnel involved were quick and professional. A credit to their profession.

I then walk over to the Qantas transfer desk to get to the domestic terminal. Need to go through security screening and have the luggage checked again. Took a long time to get onto the bus. There are many people from other flights who are late and need to be rebooked onto other flights. Finally get to the domestic terminal and into the QP. Check some emails and wait for my flight to CBR. It seems that all the flights there are running late. Indeed the previous 2 flights haven’t even left yet. Eventually I make my way down to the gate. I have a lot of carry on and for the very first time, will need to hog an overhead locker.

Eventually we board and take off, not too late but I am tired and want to get home. Upon landing at CBR it seems that several planes have landed at once. This could be nasty.

But again the gods are smiling on me. My bag is again out very quickly, one of the first. I grab it and run to the taxi rank. If you’ve ever been to CBR when several planes land you know why. I am second in the queue. After a few minutes a taxi comes and I am first. The line is getting longer and longer. A few more minutes later another taxi comes and I am relieved. By this time the line is about 50 metres long and I am very thankful I am in a taxi.

A few minutes later I am home, pay the driver, get all my luggage and my holiday is officially over.

As far as flights go I cannot fault Qantas, splendid service both ways and the upgrade god smiled on me. It was appreciated.

Japan is a wonderful destination and one that is suitable for the first time international traveller or the travel weary person who has seen it all. Now to start planning the next trip.
 
Nice trip report.

The Oneworld visit Japan fares sound like they are good value.
 
ooh.. I love Japan, can't wait to go back. Enjoyed the trip report.

Cheers
 
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I too, enjoyed your trip report and cant wait to return to Japan in January 2009.

We were there in January 2006 (CBR-SYD-KIX-CTS-HND/NRT-SYD-CBR) and our family of 5 collected enough JAL JMB Family Club points for my husband and I to fly back next year. JAL currently have a points special - 30,000 SYD-NRT/HND-AKJ-HND/NRT-SYD with our points expiring 2 days before we return home! We will be skiing for 2 weeks and then plan on purchasing a 21 day JR Pass to travel around all the islands. We will include some of the places you visited including those very special snow monkeys and a stay at the nearby ryokan.

We really enjoyed the excellent service JAL provided and also everything about Japan including the amazing food, service, snow, sightseeing, transport and unique culture.

Roll on 2009 :D
 
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