Buying a cheap ski home in Japan

Cynicor

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This was originally going to be a semi trip-report with SQ Suites each way and a new ski destination for me, but my phone died (immersed by kids) within days of my return so I never quite made it.

The ski forum had asked for more details on my apartment purchase so i figured I’d resurrect this and then answer questions here.

I’ve been interested in Japan, and ski property there on and off for years, since my first trip there in late 2008. I’ve been for the snow there every year since except for 2021 and 2022. Back in the start Niseko property was dirt cheap and I really should have bought, despite not even having graduated. But if wishes were horses…

So every few trips the bug bites again and I start to look at property at the end of the trip and when I get home. My brother normally accompanies me and he was arguably more keen than I was.

There are (were?) no real foreign ownership rules in Japan, at least nothing that encumbers a straightforward house or apartment purchase. Many properties are also extremely cheap due to a combination of rural depopulation, an aging population and a dislike of second hand/older homes (homes typically aren’t built to last, either). The exception to this is ski areas on the map of foreigners, where prices are sky high and still climbing (Niseko, Hakuba, Myoko, Rusutsu, Furano etc.)

So we’ve been looking at ski properties for ages, trying to figure out what would be useful and why we’d bother when accommodation is cheap and we are backcountry skiers and split boards so we don’t really need resorts. I guess that’s the biggest reason we didn’t buy- flexibility was key and having a place in, say, central Hokkaido was limiting when you might want to tour Honshu regularly. Returns would be pretty low too, due to either local competition in the bigger areas, or no appeal in the more rural places.

Enter kids. The Covid years brought me 2 rugrats; and so changed the type of snow holiday I would be likely to have in the next decade. Suddenly ease of access to a small resort might be quite ideal, and a place that is set up, with bedrooms and creature comforts might make the trip a lot easier, especially if we had to lug less gear over each time. Also a town named Yuzawa hit my radar. I’d never been there, and had never heard of it, but being 70 minutes on the Shinkansen from Tokyo with 12 or more various sized ski resorts nearby made it a very convenient place to consider.
 
My brother needed much more convincing as we’d put the idea on hold many times in the past already, and nothing had changed for him, until a sudden kid came along on his side too. It looked like car-based cross country trips were pretty unlikely for him, too, for a while. Most importantly in this all: Yuzawa area prices were ridiculously low.

A studio type 25-35sqm apartment 500-800m walk to Naeba resort (around 50 lifts for the full interconnected mountain) would sell for about $1000AUD. Fees and charges might take that total to $3000 all in.

A 2 bed 90sqm apartment sells for $5-10k depending on level, which building and renovation status. But you could be entirely purchased, including your local agent costs etc, for probably $10k AUD. Now Naeba is a 40ish min drive from the bullet train station so while we considered these apartments, we decided on somewhere else. The catch on all of these is strata costs/annual costs. The Naeba 3 bed would be around $3-4k AUD a year and often Minpaku/Airbnb type rental is not allowed.

Ishiuchi Maruyama, on the other hand, is a medium sized (for Japan) resort linked to two smaller resorts, Yuzawa Kogen and Gala Yuzawa, giving the combined area a respectable amount of skiable terrain while not being huge. Gala also has the distinction of a Shinkansen station built right into the ski base building so you can literally get off the train and jump onto a lift. You could then ski to almost the front door of the apartment we purchased- the building is actually on the Ishiuchi ski map.
 
We found a top floor, 3 bedroom, 2 toilet ( so 1.5 bathrooms, in Aussie, or 3LDK in Japanese) and laundry, 112sqM apartment in a building with public baths (not onsen, technically) and parking, ski lockers, gym/activity room for $28k AUD. All in we’ll be at around $40k including the cost of flights and accommodation for my brother to make a mad 2 night dash up from MEL-NRT to see a few places. We did check out a Naeba apartment, just to be sure it wasn’t worth doing, but the spectacular views and walkability to local shops, train stations and a nightlife area sold us on being closer to the town.

I might divert here to give some pros and cons of Naeba vs Yuzawa for anyone considering this themselves.

Naeba- lower strata costs, more foreigners in (owning) apartments there, Fuji rock festival (google it!), near a much larger resort with more terrain, resort is higher so has a longer season, longer walk from buildings to the ski fields, buildings are simpler- minimal facilities but minimal strata costs, bunch of restaurants in the main Prince hotel as well as lots of facilities there, possibly English speaking staff or even lessons, 40-50 minute from Yuzawa stations (Echigoyuzawa), minimal other restuarants and no Konbinis, no supermarkets etc. Rental car would be beneficial.

Yuzawa area-

Generally a station on the local line within walking distance, if not the general area, with shuttles to resorts. Many resorts on offer nearby. Could get away without a car. Higher strata costs but more facilities in-buildings. Often closer to ski resorts. Still able to get to Naeba rock. 80 min from Tokyo- could do dinner there if really keen and had JR pass. Crowded main resort on weekends.
 
The actual buying process, for us, was:
-Search for houses on angel-F, yuzawacorp and yuzawa resort websites.
-Hit up agents to lock in viewings for the places we were interested.
-Send my brother on a rapid turnaround trip (2 nights) recon mission to see some places and the town.
-Decide on a place and find a buying agent. We used Nippon Tradings International, a husband and wife team with a few employees that do buying and management.
-Give them the details and wait for the ultra slow Japanese process to take over.
-Send the occasional form, mostly notarised at our expense.
-Eventually settled, about 6 months after starting the process.

The Japanese system is slow and they don’t love selling to Gaijin, so some buildings might not even allow you to buy. Also do your due diligence on apartments management, maintenance and outstanding fees by asking for the relevant documents when undertaking the purchase.

Any questions? I’ll try to find some photos next
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Who is going to maintain the place in the off season?
It’s an apartment so nothing really is needed. Plus there isn’t really an off season in Yuzawa. Summer is the lowest but has Fuji rock, Autumn is pretty busy for hiking and the leaves dropping, and then there’s the snow.
 
This is incredibly interesting @Cynicor. I've always thought trying to find the next Queenstown would be a terrific pursuit, ie getting that combination of AirBnB-esque rental and personal use in a destination with year round appeal. Japan makes a lot of sense right now given the FX rate. Thanks for sharing. I assume your language skills goes beyond "tourist"?
 
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This is incredibly interesting @Cynicor. I've always thought trying to find the next Queenstown would be a terrific pursuit, ie getting that combination of AirBnB-esque rental and personal use in a destination with year round appeal. Japan makes a lot of sense right now given the FX rate. Thanks for sharing. I assume your language skills goes beyond "tourist"?
Sadly no, my Japanese is probably less than tourist, esp for one who has been something like 15 times for coughulative a total of more than 8 months.

In my defence we are usually skiing where there is no one else to talk to, local or otherwise. We don’t spend long in the hotel, have breakfast there, grab 7-11 lunch the night before and have dinner on the way home before crashing early and straight to bed again.

I’m kind of hoping one of my kids takes it up! But also will try to spend some time learning it myself soon/one day.
 
So what was the town and place actually like?
Firstly, every bit of the trip was better than I had hoped.
Ignoring the SQ Suites flights there and back (expiring miles pre devaluation back in the day) and the overcrowded Shinkansen where I was effectively crammed into the toilet for the whole 70 min ride, the apartment itself was great.

The building was better kept than I thought it would be, with a heap of staff cleaning all the time. The public areas, gym, lobby and baths/hot baths were better and bigger than I imagined, with 3 different pools (hot, hotter, cold) and a sauna. No outdoors onsen, but there is a legit decent onsen across the road (Yungparunas) which has the whole shebang if desired.

The ski out access was easier (maybe 400m walk?) and being able to ski down to the roadside was not something I had imagined from google maps.

Then the apartment itself. Again it felt newer, cleaner and better than I had seen from the video calls. The view was just spectacular and it was more spacious too.
IMG_0427.jpeg
The view
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The living room


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Bedroom 1

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Bedroom 2
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Bedroom 3

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Kitchen/living room entry

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Laundry

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Laundry double vanities

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Bathroom 1

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Entry hall and bathroom 0.5

These were the original pictures.
 
Interesting. Never heard of Gala before, but the Shinkansen to Tokyo definitely attractive..

And lift tickets seem cheap, though more of a intermediate resort (great for kids).

Assume also much cheaper hotels or apartments/ lodges in that area than Niseko.
 
Interesting. Never heard of Gala before, but the Shinkansen to Tokyo definitely attractive..

And lift tickets seem cheap, though more of a intermediate resort (great for kids).

Assume also much cheaper hotels or apartments/ lodges in that area than Niseko.
Yes, to all, really. Monthly rentals for accommodation can be found for not a heap so you need to do your sums and weigh up the pros/cons.

Naeba kids are free til 13 so this is really useful. And season tickets in the other resorts aren’t terrible too.
 
Fantastic thread - thank you!
Can I ask when the purchase was made (sorry if I missed that!)?
 
This is unreal, congratulations first and foremost! I have a close friend who recently did a similar thing with a property in Myoko town (near the station but a little distance from the ski hills) and a few who own various lodges around that and the Madarao area. Certainly seems like an easier proposition for those of us under 40 to be able to afford a home outright!

Fascinating to read and in depth report into the process surrounding the purchase and just how cheap it really can be!

Yuzawa certainly seems like one of the best places to do it. We visited early 2020 and the area was so unique. It seems to have a disproportianate amount of condos including quite a lot of mid-high rise towers given its unique position as a shinkansen accessed resort, and the abundance of cash during the economic miracle - only for it to have almost all of its tourist traffic fall away and feel like a ghost town now! The access to resorts though... DAMN! Arguably unmatched for athe amount of resorts nearby and in something I think quite unique you also get a huge array of different aspects on some of them.
 
This is literally true for places like Fukuoka.. I'm definitely looking into it so have an interest in this thread (although different area etc)
The people I used to buy are based in cough, in fact, so would be well placed to help you!
 

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