From Broken hill to the Amazon jungle.

[drron]

Well the time is drawing close to my last trip using paper tickets.Starting in August will be our 19 segment Global explorer trip taking in Tahiti,Easter Island,the Amazon and Galapagos Islands before heading to LOTFAP and Canada then heading home via Spain,Japan and Singapore.After our Flounging experience in April the trip was altered to pick up TN in AKL so that we fly out of SYD on QF and Flounging rather than TN and the QP.
As is fast becoming a tradition I am preceeding the trip with a stint of work in the Outback.This time it is Broken Hill.Similiar to Mt. Isa in some ways but very different in others.Funny how in Qld we callit a mountain but NSW just calls it a hill.Started off from MCY on DJ0476 for the flight to SYD.DJ because of the interlining with Rex so my bag can be checked all the way to BHQ.Looked online to see I was being offered 24F-down the back again-I swear they have a special list.Decided to take my chances at the airport.
Just in front of me at checkin was a woman with 4 young children-you are all in Row 24 says the agent.Oh no here we go again1Explain how I want to check my bag through to BHQ interlining with Rex and the delightful agent says-you are a tall fellow would the aisle seat in the exit row be OK.Sure anything except 24F.Once again flying on the last Sunday of school holidays.Still settle in with my book and before i know it we are landing in SYD.Thought I might have been on QF-45 minutes late and no IFE.At least the funny announcement I had not heard before-"those of you leaving us in Sydney may find their luggage appear on a carousel next friday"-at least I think it was a joke.
Despite being late there are 3 hours to kill at T3Oil isnt the only price going up.The food concessions in T# have caught the condition.However i have to eat here as I feel the chance of finding something to eat in Broken Hill after 9pm on Sunday is pretty remote-and so it was.Resisted the temptation to sample the wares of the Harry's Cafe De Wheels outlet.Would destroy too many memories.Settle down with my book again-nice light reading A peace to end all peaces-the Middle East 1910-22.Interesting reading the views of the US Secretary of State in 1920 concerned by rising oil prices,depleted reserves and demand outstripping supply.
Next report-off to BHQ and some thoughts on the Hill.

 

[drron]

Finally the time came to board ZL878.The bus out to the plane certainly gives you a different view of the airport at night especially when you have to give way to an arrivibg DJ flight.Assigned 9A,why am I surprised that there is only one person behind me?atypical for the Rex flights I have been on as only half full.
The time goes quickly and I finish my exciting read!Arrive at the terminal on time but someone has forgotten the last flight of the day and the gate to the terminal is padlocked.So just picture 18 passengers and 3 crew standing on the tarmac on a winters night at BHQ waiting for someone to find a key for the padlock.Finally get into the terminal and thankfully reunited with my bag and off to my digs for the next 2 weeks-looking over the Line of lode.
Broken hill is an interesting place.For those who appreciate architecture there are some fine examples of 1890's and early 1900 buildings here.Quite a few in the CBD have markers.Although the hospital is new it still has the original foundation stone laid by Sir Henry Parkes in 1890.On the same day he laid the foundation stone of the old Town Hall.Lots of old pubs.Amazing the uses they are put to.However having the windows of the Family and Child Health Unit emblazoned with "Bar" seems a bit out of place.
Next report will be eating out in Broken Hill.I am going to try all the clubs.The first will be the Barrier Social Democratic Club or "Demo".Just love the name.

 

[Evan]

Sounds like you enjoy your outback trips
Forgot the last flight ! lucky they didn't turn the runway lights off i guess. (Yes i know some airports have a remote system which pilots can activate lights, but not sure if this is one)

E

 

[drron]

Well the time has come to leave Broken Hill.Yes i do enjoy the Outback and glad i can do my little bit to help out.Of course the money is also greatly appreciated.Working in a place certainly gives you a different perspective and a little more local knowledge.For example the old Broken hill hospital opened in 1941 was the first fully air conditioned building in australia outside the major cities.Not surprising of course that the Unions also banned private wards at the hospital.
Had lunches at 4 of the clubs-Demo,muso's,legion and Sturt.All much the same.The demo and Muso's are more modern,busier but all have basic food,reasonable quality and not too expensive.The Legion and Demo's charge more for non-members meals.The Sturt was the cheapest.My vote went to the Legion by a whisker for food quality and many photo's from movie sets around the area.
Also tried out the Tydvil pub-old but good cooking,large plates and reasonable cost.Cafe Alfresco in Argent street was very disappointing.Cheap lunches at Charlottes Cafe-really liked the lamb and rosemary pie.Thom,**** and Harry's has nice gourmet wraps and focaccias and the best coffee in town.
More upmarket is Broken Earth on top of the Line of Lode.Good food,reasonably expensive and slow service.Betina's advertise they are the best Italian restaurant in town-there is only one.Mt. Isa was streets ahead for Italian food.The Astra hotel I thought was the best of the better restaurants.
Spent a day on the trip to Silverton.Reccomended if you are in the area.Lunch at the Silverton cafe was good.The pub you should recognise from a few movies.The Mad Max fans would recognise the view from the Mundi Mundi lookout.Amazing the people who called Silverton home.Dame Mary Gilmore was a teacher there.Herbert Hoover visited.And a worker in the original brewery who bought out the original owner was Mr. Resch.Those born in Sydney of my age may well remember that name.
Today back to Sydney via dubbo.Hopefully as the last plane out yesterday was grounded here meaning the last plane in was cancelled.Then no choice but Deathstar back to MCY.Oh well at least an hour in the QP.

 

[drron]

Monday starts with a bit of trepidation.ZL863 for Sunday is still on the tarmac at BHQ.It seems VH-CAN couldnt.This means last flight in on Sunday was cancelled as was the first flight for Monday.No worries VH-OLM turns up.Just means a full flight which goes via Dubbo.Check in no worries and the lovely agent gives me the exit row-6.Had enough time to admire the artwork in the BHQ terminal.3 large murals by Pro Hart and smaller cameos by several other artists.
Only regret is I now have to give back my 4-WD complete with bullbar.I felt an absolutely genuine poseur.
Good view of Menindee Lakes and darling soon after take-off.Settle down to finish off my latest book-Lee's Law-justice in singapore.I just love light reading.Arrive in SYD about 20 min late and grey,wet,cold and miserable.Dont have to wait long to pick up my bag and upstairs to checkin for JQ790.Absolutely no one in line for JQ so straight through for and hour or so in QP.Have a snack and 2 glasses of red whilst catching up with what thinks itself the real world.
Boarding is on time and again I have been allocated the exit row-13A with 13B empty.Bliss.As the pilot starts the Airbus down the runway I drift off and the next thing i hear is the announcement for our descent into MCY.I guess this must have been the perfect deathstar flight!
Now just a week before setting off on the Global Explorer.Starting off on 7th with QF 509 BNE-SYD then QF49 SYD-AKL so that we can again enjoy the Flounge.

 

[drron]

Well the day has come.Wake at 4am for our car to BNE at 5.30am-problem with being an A type person.Still we see the wonderful colours over Mango Hill as we approach Brisbane and the suns first rays as we reach BNE.A great start to the day.Line up at J checkin as line shortest.Now what is it with people who take so long at check in.3 suits at counter,1 couple and another suit in front of us but it takes 30 minutes for us to reach the counter.Maybe the new system is to blame.We dont take long and our bags are checked through to AKL.QF509 to SYD,QF49 SYD-BNE.1D,F to SYD and 2A,B to AKL.Now I think this is a good way to have a whole day in the Flounge but no I am reminded this has been done so we can see our new granddaughter.
Sample the J lounge.Certainly much less crowded than the QP.I enjoy this.Arrive at gate to see board saying flight closed but no one having boarded yet-apparently a glitch in the BP reader.As soon as we move everyone on quickly.A routine,unevenful flight with efficient FA's.Smooth landing into SYD after an approach flying parralel to the Lane Cove river and the harbour-not an approach I have experienced before but a magnificent view of SYD.Off first and straioght to taxi rank.
Hop in and driver says where to?Woollahra please.Wheres that?Next to Paddington,Centennial Park.Sorry.Gets out his UBD and we show him where to go.Completes the trip with the UBD on his lap and also referring to GPS.$40 later we are there.Priceless.Later I wander down to Simply Seafoods-simply darn good fish and chips.Run into Geoff Huegill walking a chihuahua.
Leave to walk to Oxford Street and a cab back to the airport.Just as a storm hits.Fortunately rains just as we reach some awnings and only get wet crossing Oxford street to the waiting cab.No one in line at Immigration or security so straight through to the Flounge.Ubfortunately no spa time for Mrsdrron.Settle down with our Marlborough Sav blanc in the window seats in time to see SQs A380 take off.
Well now time to think of dinner.

 

[docjames]

TR off to a great start drron - please continue!

 

[serfty]

Nice report ... hmmm QF49 SYD-BNE ... I think I know what you meant ...

QF49 boards around 6pm; SQ222 departs around 3:30pm good to see you are optimizing your Flounging ...

It's a shame about the Spa's - with closing at 5pm it gives little time for those on evening flights ...

 

[drron]

Sorry serfty,English was never my strong point and typing is even worse.Was meant to be a full stop after QF49.Will promise to try harder.
The meal at the Floung was really good.I had the Szchuan calamari-great.Followed it up with the lamb redang-not bad.Washed down with a Yarra valley Pinot Noir.From my personal point of view the restaurant service here puts the SYD Flounge in front of CX's offerings in HKG and the new JAL Flounge in NRT.
Well lubricated we are off to board QF49 to AKL.Only 1 other pax boards after us and only 7 in J.All male crew who are fantastic.I now know i am doing to much flying as one of the crew recognises me.We opt to forgo the meal but of course not the champagne on take off-I couldnt let QF009 down.I also tell them in no circumstances serve me 20 glasses of the stuff.Anyway I switch to a Withers Hills Pinot from Marlborough-a very nice drop.
The crew still get us to have the chocolate macadamias and the coconut icecream before landing-possibly a sneaky way to get me to stop drinking the pinot!Just before the seatbelt signs go off we are presented with a bottle of the pinot and a bottle of the chardy mrsdrron has been drinking-did I say this was a fantastic crew?
Straight through Immigration and as we reach the carousel our bags appear.Straight outside and spot the shuttle to the Ventura inn where we are dossing down for the night.So again no wait and 335 minutes after reaching the gate our heads hit the pillow-top marks AKL.
The Ventura Inn is a good place to stay if just overnighting.In an industrial area and great views of an airport car park but a very comfortable room with breakfast thrown in for $NZ115.No complaints.
Have just rfealised we will wake up on the 8th of the 8th 08 twice as tomorrow we will cross the date line to PPT.
Next instalment our first experience of TN.

 

[Keith009]

Great TR so far, drron.

Thanks for having some champagne for me.

Withers Hill pinot is indeed a wonderful number.

 

[drron]

I forgot to report that seat 2A on QF49 had a self reclining problem.Therefore moved to 1Aand B.Not a problem in virtually empty cabin.
So back to AKL on Friday morning.TN check in is a shambles.Hard to see the sign for J check in-it is to the right of TN lanes.Stuck behind 2 groups of 6 who were later not seen in the premium cabins.The 2 lots took 45 minutes for checkin.The last group had 17 checked pieces and apparently the were arguing that they shouldnt have to pay excess baggage fees.When got to agent he told us that a week before a family of 5 tried to check in 30 pieces.
At last off to QP.Comfortable but nothing special.So off to board and no separate queue for premium cabins so boarding also takes some time.Allocated 5A,B.Again at back of cabin.By the time we get to our seats all the side overheads are full.A young American couple in front have numerous pieces above us.Oh well just take 5D's bin.Not really impressed with TN's cabin.Certainly enough room between rows and good recline but you recline onto the top of the row behinds tray table and as miss row 4B wanted to sleep I basically had her head in my lap.Not good when who ever is in the window seat wants to move.Was worse for 5J,K as 2 large Kiwi rugby players and row 4 on their side also wanted to recline all the way.
So 1 row of F and 4 rows of J.Once again on an airline run by French speakers the champagne is served in a water tumbler-dont these French have any sense of style.Meal is OK but nothing special-I have beef(chewy) Mrsdrron has fish(not much taste and dry).Good choice of red wine-not a bad pinot from burgundy though personally I thought the Withe hills better.Only 1 white wine which displeases mrsdrron.Service is OK-no smiles and a bit disjointed.Certainly not enough on this flight to have me wanting to fly TN again.
Arrive in PPT on time.Unfortunately we have to deplane through front door even though second door is right behind us and 2 women on crutches insist on going first and take an age getting down steps as no airbridges here.So a long way back in Immigration queue.Finally through and into the taxi heading for Le Meridien.Not expecting much here from reports.Taxi costs $A50+.
Next report Tahiti and then off to IPC.

 

[JohnK]

Very nice trip report Dr Ron.

Looking forward to further installments....

 

[drron]

Internet access at last.Arrive at Le Meridien about 9.30pm.Assistant manager brought out to check us in.No suite upgrade because as we find out several weddings the next 2 days and hotel really is full.Tomorrow is our second 8/8/08 and 3 weddings occur.Upgraded though to lagoon view room on top floor and see over the trees with a view of Moorea as well.Room has been recently refurbished and I am quite happy.Welcoming letter but nought else in room.11pm and about to nod off when a loud knock at door.Now drron is not one for night attire so grabs robe from bathroom and belt falls off.Woman at door with a bottle of champagne in icebucket.I need 2 hands to hold icebucket,no bely-hmm-damn I like champagne so say thanks and woman beats hasty retreat.
Next day spent by pool then into pool.French woman's habit of only wearing one half of a bikini keeps me there.Because of weddings only upmarket restaurant Le Carre open for lunch-tuna cerviche,hamburger and half bottle of wine-$A110!That afternoon spent on balcony watching proceedings and drinking freebie wine-the QF49 stuff.Now if people thought being married on 8/8 was going to be lucky-well.First blowing a gale,then ring bearer passes out and taken off by ambulance.Then it pours down!
Dinner next door at Le Cigalon.Only slightly cheaper than Le Carre but good food.There are 2 other restaurants,a patisserie and supermarket close to Le Meridien.The Patisserie is a reasonable source of breakfast.
Next day off to Papeete by Le Truck.It is full of arrogant Frenchmen,expensive pearl places and forgettable restaurants.The markets are interesting.Have time to walk up and down alongside the Packer's yacht which is berthed here.Over the top!That night have just gone off to sleepo when again a loud knock at door.not feeling very friendly I dont make a grab for robe and woman makes a hurried withdrawal with apologies-complain at checkout-half hearted apology.
Final day spend kayaking with mrsdrron and a couple of hours snorkelling in the lagoon.Great variety of fish and spend 15 minutes drifting with a shoal of 5-600 fish.Reasonable coral further out from shore.Today pool bar is open for lunch-prices though are exactly the same as at Le Carre-what the!Late checkout and get taxi to airport before 8pm as price goes from 2000CFP to 3700 after8pm.
Wait an hour for checkin.Through quickly and to lounge.Free wifi but otherwise nothing extra.Next report-our first LAN experience and Isla de Pascua.

 

[Keith009]

Now drron is not one for night attire so grabs robe from bathroom and belt falls off.Woman at door with a bottle of champagne in icebucket.I need 2 hands to hold icebucket,no bely-hmm-damn I like champagne so say thanks and woman beats hasty retreat.

ROFL.

A top read thus far - more please!

 

[docjames]

Great TR. If you did pics like QF009 there could have been problems though (room service and poolside!)

 

[drron]

The time has come to leave PPT.At least LAN have a separate boarding lane for J pax.However it is across the tarmac and up the stairs in the rain.Reminds me that this is probably the last time I will see PPT.Too many arrogant frenchmen and too expensive.
Flight is on a B767-300.5 rows of J.Great seats with virtually full recline.Fit drrons shape very well.Large screen on back of seat and better selection of movies than on TN.However as we are leaving just past midnight they will have to wait.Before depature given choice of champagne,pisco sour,juice or water.Just has to be the pisco sour.Boy these could creep up on you just like the rum punches in the carribbean.At 44% proof and costing as little as $8 a cheap way to oblivion.
Service is reasonable-not as good as QF but better than TN.Food not a highlight but the Chilean wines they serve are very good.Mrsdrron has a Veramonte sauvignon blanc-quite reminiscent of the Marlborough style.I try the Montes Alpha cab sav.Very good and more in the french style.
After the snack and a couple of wines I lay the seat down and the next I remember is the FA waking me for landing at Isla de Pascua.Impressions of LAN are good.
Next instalment Isla de Pascua/Easter Island/Rapa Nui.

 

[drron]

Landing at Rapa Nui through scattered showers onto a strip that bisects the island at its narrowest.Land from the north as it is only end with runway lights.At the other end is the islands fuel storage.Definitely not a place to overshoot.Through Chilean customs quickly and out into the terminal.Bags out quickly and it seems all J bags out first.As soon as sniffed by customs dog who seemed more intent on playing with his handler we go outside and greeted by Edith the owner with her aussie husband of the Taura'a-our hotel/B&B for our stay.Definitely the warmest greeting I have had as we are garlanded with "Hello darling welcome to Rapa Nui"Wait for 1 other guest-a CX employee wisely maximising his benefits then off to our lodgings.Everything is very close.2 buildings of 4 rooms each plus another house with office,kitchen and breakfast room.
Taken to our room-no formal checkin-guess you cant sneak out on them.Comfortable rooms,shower and fan for cooling-not needed in August.Was cloudy and rained each day but not when we had activities planned.Lunch first day at Mer Ahi Ra'a near the harbour.Very good fish washed down by another good Chilean Sav Blanc.Dinner 2 restaurants down from hotel-forgotten where I wrote names down(found my bit of paper-itwas pub Kamahua).Good Cerviche and fish again.Food very reasonable and wines $20-30.
Bill is Ediths husband.Came to the island as a special effects man on Kevin Costners film Rapa nui.Obviously fell in love with the place.He also set up a tour company and the do 2 full day tours of the island which we took.Bill no longer does the trips but we had James a young English fellow who has lived on and off there for the last 10 years.Very knowledgeable and an eeasy going friendly fellow who made the tours interesting.First day was the West Coast tour with more of the inland sights.Fascinating history.Dinner that night at what is supposed to be the Island's best restaurant-Le Taverne De Pecheur-run by an eccentric frenchman.Well not only was this the worst value meal so far it has been the worst restaurant by a long way.Mrsdrrons appetiser was scallops in a mornay sauce-obviously reheated and under the crusty top layer the sauce was an unappettising grey colour.Then we shared the paella.Again the worst i have ever had.Soggy rice with mussels,shellfish and 1 prawn.Rice again a grey colour.Topped with a whole fish-was OK plus a piece of fish-Kanekane-which we had had the day before but this time overcooked and dry.Also on top a raperape(moreton bay bug)again overcooked and dry.Mrsdrron then had the Creme Brulee.Well she got Creme Caramel with a torched layer of sugar on top.We noticed that those customers speaking French got good service and better looking meals,those speaking Spanish where acknowledged but English and others were ignored.Avoid unless you are fluent in French.
Next day the south coast tour with many of the recognised pictures of the island including the quarry for the moai.A very good tour.Dinner at Cafe Ra'a-much better than the night before.simple menu and again we had the kanekane plus a good cerviche.The Sav Blanc here was only $13.
The next day it was pouring but we were on the morning plane-a continuation of LA834-so no problems.
I highly reccomend Rapa Nui but I think sooner rather than later before too many tourists can be accommodated.They are already building a 96 room hotel.
Next off to Chile.

 

[drron]

Through the rain we go and board-2A,C again.Notice the Chilean family with 2 in row 3 and 3 in Y.They had travelled from PPT the same day as us.On arrival at Rapa Nui Grandpa asked if he could go to the lav as soon as we landed-then he is first off and the rest of the family push their way through Immigration queue to be with their family.It seems if you have 2 Chieans in front of you soon there will be 52.This time grandpa has taken on board a hot water bottle and daughter has a thermos of tea-both on floor for take off.You can see security at Rapa nui is really tight.
Flight goes smoothly.Enjoy a great Haras cab sav.Descent into SCL is spectacular with the snow covered Andes to our left.This is a domestic leg so no hassles with Immigration or Customs.Again a word of warning there are lots of taxi touts-make sure you get the Official taxi.Soon on our way to the 4 points-that is the next instalment.

 

[drron]

Taxi into the Four Points is 15000 pesos($30).Up to check in and as I plonk down my platinum card the one check in person immediately leaves the other guest and calls the manager to check me in.Impressive.Card is marked "you have been upgraded,Enjoy".We certainly have from basic room for $100 to an 11th floor corner suite.Large bathroom,walk in robe plus large balcony as well.Also given 2 hours free internet,welcome drinks in bar and offered a nice bottle of Chilean wine or Pisco in a Moai bottle but take the points as early start and more international flights tomorrow.
Go down and have our drink,find then it is happy hour so for $4 you get 2 glasses of wine.How can you turn that down.Decide to eat in and go into the Buganvillea restaurant with one other diner.Need not worry,great food-cerviche again,both have steaks(very good)then mrsdrron has her usual creme brulee(much better than that of the arrogant frenchman from rapa Nui)and I have the Chilean mille fuille-layers of fine pastry filled with lots of sweetened condensed milk-takes me back to childhood.All this plus wine even with a 10% service fee come to less thn $US50.Chile is now marked as a country to come back to.
Early wake up call.check out is slow,booked taxi not there but a Chilean businessman offeres us a ride in his transport as long as we give the driver his tip-10000 pesos,cheaper than the cab fare.Arrive at the airport at 5.30 and through immigration by 5.45 as we got BP,s for the next 2 sectors when we left Rapa Nui so only had to do a bag drop.Seats 2A,B all the way.
Next-to Quito.

 

[drron]

Flight LA634 to LIM.Drop into the AC when it opens at 5.30 as it is at our gate.Just time for a juice and restrooms before once again taking 2A,B.After takeoff-again spectacular-served breakfast with a decent omelette.After this catch up with some sleep and before long making our descent into LIM.Doesnt look a patch on santiago.Major works at terminal so we are parked out the back and bussed to the terminal.Quickly through the rudimentary security and to the lounge.Not a OW lounge and is also the Priority pass lounge.Not a great selection of food and as it is still morning the only alcohol is Pisco.Now although it will be past 3pm in rome I think it still too early for pisco.Free wifi so mrsdrron and I catch up on emails.
Time flies and soon we are boarding LP580.Not a 767 this time but a 727 with european style J seating.Exactly the same seats with middle row blocked.not a great lunch but still serving a good Chilean Sav.blanc and cab.sav.Once again a great approach into UIO through the mountains and into a valley at 9000 ft. elevation.On taxi we pass the Air force and a collection of vintage planes.Quickly through Immigration and as we walk into the baggage collection area there are our bags coming out 1 and 2.Priority definetly means something on LAN.
We have organised this part of our trip through Haugan cruises/Columbus travel which we find are one company split for tax purposes.We have been very pleased by the way everything has been handled.We have to wait for 2 other groups but soon on our way to the Swissotel for our night in Quito before the Galapagos.
That is the next instalment.