Planes, boats, oh no, the thread name has been stolen!! Instead I’ll call it ‘The trip that nearly wasn’t.’

[bPeteb]

When our flights to NZ were cancelled by QF in December we initiated plan b, another two week trip to Tassie. We decided on a car this time instead of a camper but then saw the price of car hire. Yikes! We kept checking prices and bAl stumbled onto a good rate with Sixt so we jumped on that. $1400 for 16 days for a Toyota Yaris.

Itinerary. bAL had not been to Port Arthur so that was our starting point. We didn;t need to revisit the west coast so soon after our last visit so we decided on the east coast, Launceston and then back down through the highlands.

Port Arthur - Stewarts Bay Lodge - two nights
Swansea - Swansea Waterloo Inn - one night Meredith House and Mews - one night
Bicheno - Beachfront BIcheno - one night
St Helens - Bayside Hotel - two nights Panorama St Helens Nature Resort - two nights
George Town - York Cove - one night
Launceston - Hotel Verge - two nights
Central plateau - Thousand Lakes Lodge - two nights
Richmond - The Mill House Cottage - one night
Hobart - Salamanca Wharf Hotel - three nights

drron is finishing up his working career in late Feb and contacted me to see if we wanted to catch up in Launceston. Of course! How funny, two Queensland members meeting up in Tassie

We booked the ferry to, and bike hire on, Maria Island. Also pre-booked dinner at Stewarts Bay as they recommended to.

Monday 12 days out I woke with a cough and mid-morning the dribbly nose started. A RAT confirmed what I thought I just wouldn’t get. As per Qld rules we isolated for seven days. bAl tested negative at the start and end of isolation. I was also clear. For anyone interested my symptoms -I had a bad head cold and a weird ache in my lower back, and I was a bit short of breath but that’s nothing unusual for me. Triple vaccination works.

A week out we booked Port Arthur entry and changed dinner at Stewarts Bay to our second night so we could do the After Dark package at Port Arthur - dinner at 1830 restaurant and a Ghost Tour.

Then four days out RooFlyer suggested we change our booking at Swansea to Meredith House and Mews. Best breakfast on the east coats apparently. I checked availability, just the small queen room available but looked fine to us, before cancelling and rebooking.

Away we go

 

[VPS]

Yay - I love your TR

 

[RooFlyer]

drron is finishing up his working career in late Feb and contacted me to see if we wanted to catch up in Launceston. Of course! How funny, two Queensland members meeting up in Tassie

And a local to make sure the stories don't get too outrageous ( unless they involve me ).

 

[drron]

And a local to make sure the stories don't get to outrageous ( unless they involve me ).

Remember you will be outnumbered 3 to 1.

 

[bPeteb]

We’re super lucky to have a couple of different friends who love to come and stay at our house when we go away. One now Airb&bs her place down on the coast so makes monly coming to look after our place. We even get a lift to the airport

J lounge was pretty quiet. Still too many people just ignoring the mask rules. Sure it’s been going on for a long time but it is what it is. I’d imagine the staff are just over asking entitled coughs to stop with the chin nappies.

One class 717 down to Hobart. I love 717s, especially sitting up the front. The quiet is just so weird in a plane. Very ordinary leg room though. No entertainment yet fitted on this plane

A quite passable quiche/slice for the light refreshment.



Clearly we were the only rental the Sixt office was expecting, or maybe the last. Upgraded from a small to a medium SUV - an MG HS.

Traffic down to Port Arthur was light but gee there’s a lot of people down here who just have no idea what a speed limit is - 100 means 100, not 65 or 70. Pulled into the carpark at 2. Port Arthur Historic Site Very strict observation of double vax requirement and mask wearing. Found out the following morning that mask wearing outdoors had been removed the previous Friday night but individual establishments can have their own rules. We have no issue with wearing masks, anywhere.

We were able to get on to an introductory tour and boat cruise in the three hours before closing. Asked about the walk around from Stewart’s Bay Lodge. It was barricaded off to ensure covid plan was met but it was also gently hinted that it could be stepped around before 10am and after 5pm. Also told about the market that would be held in the carpark the following morning. Pastries highly recommended. Wine and gin as well. We needed no more information.

Port Arthur is a haunting place. The convict history and then the massacre affected me quite deeply. I looked at the blocks and the marks hewn into them and tried to imagine how horrible it must have been. Then I thought about my friend who was at Port Arthur at the time of the massacre. He was one of the lucky ones.

Enough of that. It was a glorious afternoon. Literally picture perfect. We had a bit of a quick wander then back to take our intro tour. Our guide was excellent, funny, and on a mission (no chance to keep up if you walked slowly).








Then out on the boat for the cruise around Isle of the Dead.



I declare my rights as a soverign citizen, blah, blah, blah, maritime law, blah, blah. Maybe it's supposed to be upside down? Idiots



amazing to see how the rock was quarried out here around the island

 

[bPeteb]

The grounds close at five so we had another 90 minutes and headed up to the Separate Prison via the asylum. To think people tried to get in there. Wow.








Then it was time to head to Stewarts Bay Lodge Home - SBL to check in. Seemed quiet but was apparently very busy due to it being Hobart Regatta Day long weekend. Loved our log cabin (19) Log Cabins - SBL with a view down towards the restaurant/bar and out across Lady Bay.

 

[bPeteb]

The inside of cabin 19. Huge for two people. Everything anyone could need including a washer and dryer that we found opening a cupboard in the hallway on the morning we left.





Walked down to the beach in Lady Bay






then back up for a quick couple of beers. Without question THE BEST BEER I HAVE EVER HAD!!!

 

[bPeteb]

Got some warmer clothes on and drove back around to Port Arthur for dinner and ghost tour After Dark Package - Port Arthur Historic Site

We thought this was excellent value when considering the price of the food at 1830 restaurant. Two courses and a drink plus the tour. The restaurant space is really very nice with a great view back towards the ruins.



The food was very good to excellent.

Nice calamari


terrific ravioli


very good pork belly


and a perfectly cooked steak with a delicious chimichurri sauce


arms twisted to pay for a couple of deserts

ice cream sandwich


and an excellent brulee 'slice'

 

[bPeteb]

The tour was, interesting. We are the least ‘supernatural’ people you can find so I have difficulty with people who see and feel things. There was one person taking photos into dark rooms and then excitedly telling their partner that there were images of a person in their photos. Oh blah.

The walk itself through the grounds at night was great, with a bright moon helping to show the way.



We visited the ruins of the church





and went back into the Separate Prison. It was eerie at night.

When the tour finished the guide asked if anyone had had any experiences. A different person to ‘ghosts in the photos’ had been grabbed on the neck in the church and then when we entered the Separate Prison was held around the chest so that they couldn’t breathe. The guide was clearly looking forward to telling her colleagues about this one.

If you look realy closely at this picture I took of a pitch black room you'll see, nothing


And so ended a fun first day back in Tassie for these two sceptics

 

[bPeteb]

Site plan of Stewarts Bay Lodge



Day two and back to Port Arthur for the markets, more of the historic site and the plan was seeing the blowhole etc along the east coast of the peninsula.

The first thing we wanted was a good coffee but none was to be had. I asked if I could go into 1830 to get takeway but was told not until 10. I thought that strange as I'm sure they were open for breakfast. No matter. We went to the pastry stall and I ignored them all to get this delicious doughnut thing that was soaked in something. Excellent description!



Before I consumed the doughnut we had a delicious egg and bacon breakfast roll. Gobe before I even thought about a picture.
Then we did what any sensible visitors do at a market at 9am we tasted some wine.

First stop was the Saltwater River stand where we sampled everything they had on offer and walked away with two pinots and a pinot gris Home. Then we moved on to wine we were familiar with after visiting The Wine Shed last year - Bream Creek Bream Creek Vineyard - Bream Creek Vineyard. Was lovely talking to Fred Peacock about the winery and the wines and of course taste them. We bought two riesling and a sparkling rose.

We then bought four of the Dark Matter Black Garlic Oatmeal stout we'd had with dinner the night before. These were from Tasman Brewing Company.

The Finnish mustards looked good so they got some love from us and then finally it was time for gin at the Dunalley Bay Distillery stand. Very nice gins and two went back up to the car to add to the wine and mustard, the blue blue and the rosie & hip.

Then it was time to spend some more time in Port Arthur. We wandered around the gardens first




where the bumblebees were all over the thistles







Then we visited every house that was open and every ruin we could access.

 

[bPeteb]

Port Arthur continued

 

[bPeteb]

I stopped at one and asked one of the staff about a building I’d visited what I worked out to be 41 years ago. It had seats with boxes around them and you could only look forward. Turned out it was the chapel in the Separate Prison that is closed due to covid restrictions.

You can see them on this plan of the separate prison.



We walked around to the shipyard, on the way stopping to say hello to a bluey enjoying the warmth of the path





where the walk from Stewarts Bay enters the site. As had been hinted to us, not exactly difficult to step around



We went back to our room to drop the purchases off and then called in to the office to ask if they could print up our national parks pass. We’d at least have it on the dash if anyone cared.

We saw a sign for Remarkable Cave https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/tasman-national-park/remarkable-cave and are glad we took the turn. It was amazing. A bit of clammering to get down into the cave but it was worth it.






view of The Pillars at the Bottom of the World (Cape Raoul?) from the lookout above the cave

 

[bPeteb]

We continued the drive around to Tasman National Park and after a quick lunch at Nubeena drove past the sign for Home - Coal Mines Historic Site and decided to turn back and have a look. Again, good decision. It was super interesting and the walks were easy and none took as long as sign posted.

 

[bPeteb]

By the time we left it was clear there would be no visit to the main attractions of Tasman National Park. Next time.

We got back to Stewarts Bay lodge and cracked open the Bream Creek bubbles. Delicious.

Dinner at the lodge’s restaurant On the Bay was very nice but the highlight was the wine - a Schonburger from Bream Creek. Neither of has heard of this wine but we’ll be ordering some as soon as we get home.



Standout meal was the prosciutto wrapped ash brie but it was all very good.



pork belly croquette, just a croquette


beef brisket was very good


as was the wallaby


warm chocolate brownie was clearly very good as bAl just about ate the plate


the lemon pudding was nice






Then we decided to walk around to the Port Arthur barricade. It was a good 30 minute round trip with lots of pademelons to see but it was nearly dark when we got back.

It had been an excellent second day.

 

[bPeteb]

Just noticed a near $200 credit on my credit card from Sixt. Confused until I went onto their website and saw auto club members get a 15% discount. That’s why we were asked on picking up the car. Winning!

Up early. No chance of breakfast at the lodge as it didn’t start until 8. We bought lunch supplies at a bakery just off the peninsula then turned north.

bAl’s navigation suggested we go the direct route to Orford and on to Triabunna to take the ferry across to Maria Island.



This involved C roads and that meant unsealed roads and I have a feeling that we’re not supposed to be driving on them. When we got to the sign that said 4WD vehicles only we turned back along the gravel road we had just driven along, then drove along another through Nugent to get back out to the highway. RooFlyer has since said that road is in great condition and we would have been fine driving direct to Orford.

Arrived into Triabunna with 15 minutes to spare before boarding. Lucky we had printed the park pass up as we needed to show it to go across to the island.



The ferry ride across was a little rough but that’s always the best part



We’d hired bikes for the day and you walk up into Darlington to pick them up. They got us on our bikes, confirmed we could ride and away we went. When you ride south you start with a very long steep climb that’s a good indicator or what you’re in for. The description of ‘gentle undulating’ is 50% right.

We had an excellent day on Maria Island https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/maria-island-national-park.

 

[bPeteb]

We rode to Frenchs Farm




then down to Encampment Cove where we stopped for lunch



then rode the loop around to Point Lesuer and the ruins of the convict cells.





We saw a couple of wombats out there






and some wallabies on the way back.

 

[bPeteb]

The return ride and Darlington








the painted cliffs


We were back in to Darlington just before 2.30. The ride was about 28km and our bums were SORE. We wandered around the settlement. Our hopes for a coffee were dashed when we discovered the coffee palace was just a recreation of what had once been there.




no coffee was to be had

 

[bPeteb]

Lots more wombats all over the place and some very interesting ruins. What a history - failed vineyard, failed spa hotel, a concrete works that didn’t last. Even the tassie devil sanctuary wasn’t a success if you consider they ate all of the little penguins on the island!

wombats and ruins







the hill that we rode up at the start

 

[bPeteb]

When we were planning we both liked Meredith House Meredith House & Mews in Swansea. bAl was concerned we might be covered in mud if it had been raining so we picked the Waterloo Inn. RooFlyer had suggested we stay at Meredith House so before we left we cancelled the Waterloo Inn and rebooked. Apparently they offer the best breakfast on the east coast! It better be good.

Neil, one of the owners, was out in the garden watering when we arrived. A plaque on the outside puts the date of construction as 1853! What a beautiful house. Our room was huge. We’d been upgraded from a small queen room to a family room with a separate twin bedroom. It was huge. We were even given a plate of muffins to take to the room.










We had dinner at The Bark Mill Tavern The Bark Mill and it was great and we were even able to walk off some of the meal returning to Meredith House.

lamb shank, very delicious, apparently


very delicious pork with a pineapple rum sauce

 

[Pushka]

We rode to Frenchs Farm

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then down to Encampment Cove where we stopped for lunch

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then rode the loop around to Point Lesuer and the ruins of the convict cells.

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We saw a couple of wombats out there

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and some wallabies on the way back.

Very authentic use of B&W filter there!