SHANGHAI - Part I of f the latest China Epic, Shanghai, Beijing and Harbin

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munitalP

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24 December 2011

Maybe I shouldn’t have gone to bed after the AFF drinks and more drinks at the Hilton South Wharf, but I did, and now I regret the wine, not the beer, just the wine.

Out of the hotel by 5am, four of us stuffed into Kim’s little hatch with luggage – a tight squeeze but one that no-one complained about because we were starting our new China adventure – well at least on the way to Melbourne for a flight to Sydney then onto Pudong.

Our planning had started quite some time ago – 9 months earlier to be precise, with hotel rooms booked to get best rates and at the 6 month mark, airfares booked for the same reason. The trip would replicate the previous China holiday with the difference being leaving before Christmas rather than 2 days after, and this time travelling with two very good friends.

So, Shanghai for a few days followed by Beijing then the c'est magnifique snow and Ice festival in Harbin – Northern China. Hotels being, Shanghai’s Eton Hotel, a 5 star property in Pudong, The Holiday Inn downtown Beijing and the Holiday Inn in Harbin. Flights were on Qantas, MEL/SYD/PVG with internal travel to be booked once in China.

Checking in at MEL, our luggage was tagged through to PVG and the four of us went up into the Business lounge for coffee and pancakes. After a short wait in a quite empty lounge, we boarded a quite full A330 for the short hop to Sydney with a planned breakfast in the First lounge. Our time in the First lounge started getting eroded as we sat at the gate in MEL waiting for items being loaded into the hold, and eroded more when we started doing circle work in the sky somewhere above Canberra while waiting for traffic congestion in Sydney due to poor weather.

On touching down, we were then parked at gate 11 – possibly as far away from the transfer bus at T3 as possible, then a slow disembarking of the aircraft. The erosion was now having an environmental impact! We got to the transfer lounge just in time for a bus, and were driven across to the international terminal with little fuss. Immigration was reasonably quiet, and after a LAGS check and a suspicious bottle of water in my bag, we were let through and were quickly seated in the F lounge for breakfast.

I had a breakfast of mushroom, hash brown, poached egg, bacon and sausage, with a serve of sour dough toast, whilst the other three had eggs benedict or varying types. Kim was the only one who risked Champagne while I settled for coffee and orange juice. Unfortunately our flight was on time so the hoped for knock on from the weather disruptions had no affected our flight, so boarding was on time and in less than an hour from entry to leaving, we were using priority boarding onto another A333 up to Shanghai.

The aircraft was the single business cabin layout, with the older blue seats and dodgy IFE that seldom works correctly, and this flight was no different. The condition of the aircraft was clean, but just felt well used and I wasn’t really looking forward to the 10+ hour flight ahead.

Kim and I settled into 24A/B while our travel companions settled into 23A/B (the worst seats due to restricted leg room caused by the bulkhead) and the flight was soon climbing up toward cruise altitude.

The Cabin Service Manager came down and introduced himself and offered the usual stuff – business headphones etc, then we settled back into the flight. The first round of refreshments came out quite fast, but from there on, service was – well slow would understate. After meals were served, it was more than 1.5 hours until the trays were removed. This was caused by the number of tea drinkers in cattle class, and the 3 different types of tea on offer. The flight attendants had to keep refilling the teapot, and it seemed everyone on the flight bar a few were into the tea action and wanted a piece. This was also later seen with noodles – horrid pot noodles, that for the majority of the PAX felt was compulsory consumption! On one lap around the cabin I could not believe the number of pot noodles being consumed.

Anyway, the meal service was finally cleaned up, and I settled in and watched a movie. The CSM mucked around with the AVOD on seats 23A/B that totally failed to work, so our travelling companions were left to talk to each other and read a newspaper. I did annoy them quite frequently by telling them how good the movie selection was, and how much I was enjoying the movies. At one stage I got up to use the bathroom and on my return had found myself relegated to 23A.

The flight was enjoyable with good banter between friends with a couple of deep and meaningful conversations thrown in, multiple seat changes – even the CSM commented during one of his many stops for a chat that we were confusing him. A couple of drinks later and after 9 hours, we were on descent into Shanghai and soon touching down 30 minutes before schedule into a cool 4 degree Shanghai.

Immigration was painless and we were quickly on the other side working out how we were to get to Pudong. After a quick check of bucket lists, the Maglev was chosen as the means of transport, and we were soon heading toward Pudong at 300 km/p/h – what a way to travel. My previous Maglev experience was much quicker, but a short time later we were at the Pudong station, down the ramp and into a cab. We are very lucky that we have a Chinese speaking albeit Malaysian Chinese member of the team so it is quite awesome to watch the mannerisms between her and whomever she’s talking to, so directions were finally worked out and we were soon dropped at the Eton.

The Eton offered executive room upgrades, which we both declined, and were soon in our rooms, ours on level 32 and our friends on 37. Our room although smallish, was well appointed with a view of the river, censored WAN internet and usual room amenities one would expect in a 5 star hotel. The one immediate thing I don’t like is every flat space has stuff on it – hotel services books - 4 volumes, trays, desk calendar, menus, mini bar stuff including pot noodles – it just makes the place untidy and not much room to spread my own stuff out without cleaning up first.

There was a fruit platter and a Christmas stocking in the room (loaded with cookies) and the bed had been turned back. Overall experience so far is OK to Good, however time will tell.

We met downstairs about 30 minutes later – 20 of them minutes were spent under a scolding hot shower and after a quick chat with the doorman, we walked down to a neighbourhood restaurant and sat down for a late dinner – approx. 8pm China time, where we had hand made noodles, 2 types of dumpling soup and a tofu sweet/sour soup, 4 600ml bottles of Harbin beer and the whole lot cost $18.

A quick stop at a convenience store for some fresh milk and it was time for bed.
 
25 December 2011

Today started quite early as my body clock was still on my 6am wake up call. I set my DSLR up on the tripod and focused in on the river, set my remote timer control to take a photograph every 30 seconds with a 1 second exposure, then pressed go. What has resulted is a photo every 30 seconds for an hour, which will (in the end) result in stitching them together in a Adobe Premier to create a time lapse movie of the river and the hundreds of ships sailing along. The things you do to kill time.

We met our friends in the lobby and formulated an action plan for the day. This included cold weather jacket shopping, a China Mobile prepay with data, breakfast, lunch and our train tickets to Beijing, in no particular order.

Into the Metro and purchased a day pass - $3.50 AUD for 24 hours of travel, then headed to Shanghai Central rail station. McDonalds next to the station provided hot coffee and warm breakfast burgers (it was ~4 Deg C outside so the coffee was appreciated) then across to the ticketing part of the station to purchase rail tickets. After using the electronic ticket machine to work out the train and price, we went to a window and purchased our tickets. Note that the requirement is for passports as ID and they do not accept credit cards.

We had an extremely helpful young lady, and with our friends Mandarin, we got the tickets reasonably trouble free for the new ultra high-speed (G) train to Beijing. Rail is 2/3rds more expensive now than it was two years ago – it seems inflation has reached China. The D train – my previous gauge for cost had increased first class from ~$45 per person to over $100 per person, but the shock was the economy prices. The rail networks in China are the life blood of the country, and with such low wages and salaries, I fear that these price hikes will put many people in a position of being unable to afford travel home to family or friends using these networks.

From here we went to the copy market found at the Science Museum stop on #2 metro line, where my wife and Chee went jacket shopping and Mark and I went SIM card shopping with a brief diversion past a helicopter I could fly with my iPhone (too cool!) but sadly didn’t purchase as the vendor wouldn’t come down to my highest offer for the model. The SIM card proved to be no problem with my iPhone – plugged in and worked straight away, data and calls, however Marks HTC proved problematic with data and IDD calls which the retailer was unable to fix. We later found information on the internet regarding settings and problem solved.

After a walk around the huge market, a couple of nice little gifts were purchased for young nieces, and then we headed back to the hotel to drop off goods and regroup. After a coffee in the lobby ($38 AUD! for 3 coffees and 1 pot of tea) we headed back out in the general direction of the pearl tower, where we found a Din Tai Fung and had a late Christmas lunch of dumpling and other exotics including shredded Jellyfish while looking across the river at the Bund and the slowly setting sun.

Following lunch, we went for a walk along the Pudong river walk, then we caught the tourist tunnel over to the bund. The tourist tunnel is a complete waste of time. A tunnel with lights and displays with noises and sight similar to a carnival ghost train at the tackiest level. Anyone ever considering wasting the 50RMB for the ride, needn’t bother.

From the exit of the tunnel, we then walked the length of the bund well into the dark, and after taking a heap of photos, we flagged down a taxi and got delivered back to the hotel for a couple of night caps and bed.
 
26 December 2011

Today we headed out to breakfast at a French bakery we had spotted the previous day at the Pearl Tower metro exit and feasted on French pastries and quite good coffee. One may ask why breakfast wasn’t being eaten in the hotel – simple answer, too darn expensive. After breakfast we rode the metro over to the Peoples Park then after a quick walk around the park, into the Shanghai Museum which once again keep me interested from the moment of walking through the door till the moment we left. A must do for any Shanghai visitor.

At a local shopping mall, we wandered into the food court and had lunch and discussed what the plans were for the remainder of the day. Kim needed some pain killers, so using a map on the phone, we navigated on foot across town a bit until finding the main shopping precinct of Shanghai – Nanjing Road, where we found a pharmac_ and stocked up on necessary drugs.

Another quick metro stop had us at the Jing’an Temple where we pondered the new age Buddhist monks who were taking possession of an Audi A8 whilst we were there, and the total sell out of their faith in my humble opinion. I found the temple in not much better repair than the last time I was there, and lost enthusiasm in the whole tourist attraction quick smart. As previously mentioned (trip report two years ago) I thought this temple was a sell out, and the A8 galvanized my opinion during this visit

On leaving, we headed toward the Shanghai finance tower, still the worlds tallest viewing platform and Mark & Chee headed for the top while Kim and I headed to a bar called Blue Frog that we enjoyed last time in Shanghai, and this time no different. We kicked back, used the free WiFi and enjoyed a few rounds of 2 for the price of 1 drinks till the other two arrived down from half a km up in the clouds.

We headed back to the hotel and decided to eat local again. A restaurant that wasn’t open the first night we ate in this area lured us in and in no time seated reading the menu until it was pointed out it included Dog, Turtle and Snake – so in our support for not supporting restaurants that partake in the serving of Dog and Turtle, we left – to the disgust of the waitress.

The restaurant we ate at the first night was next door, so into there, seated and eating before we knew it. The Harbin beer was chilled down, and although the meal was not as good as 2 nights previous – in fact somewhat disappointing, it was still OK and we left with unfinished plates and full stomachs. A stop at the convenience store next to the hotel and we picked up some beer and wine, had a night cap and was in bed asleep a short time later.
 
December 27 2011

Up early again and straight through to Shanghai Main rail station where we partook in McDonalds for breakfast then across to the station ticketing for G Train (high speed) to Suzhou – a ride of about 50 minutes. The Shanghai Rail Station, which the last time I visited 2 years ago was a hangover from the strict communist days of China – the drab grey and clinical green tiles everywhere, dark corridors with smelly food being sold in less than hygienic conditions, has turned into an ultra modern station with the exception being the number of stores inside, next to each other, selling the same thing.

After a few misfires, we managed to get recharge cards for our phones – not that we needed to make calls, we needed data to be able to check in on foursquare (!) then waited patiently for our train. The ride was called, and the mad rush to get onto the train was quite funny – considering all seats were pre-allocated, there was no need to rush at all, I had to laugh.

We were travelling in the first class carriage, and turned our seats to face each other for the ride. The train peaked at 300km per hour, which over distance chews the trip up, and in no time at all, we were alighting at Suzhou, another ultra modern rail station for the day’s adventures.

Suzhou is where Shanghai got known as the Venice of the East. It is a city riddled with canals and forms part of the longest canal system in the world. Hundreds of years ago, a canal system to link Beijing to Shanghai and the surrounding cities was built, and even today, still forms an important part of the infrastructure of the area.

We left the rail station by cab and literally pointed to the Bao’en Pagoda (temple), across the river. That was where we wanted to go and the cab driver took us there. On trying to negotiate with the driver for him to stay with us the rest of the day (100 RMB/p/h, he decided to try a fast one and start adding in extras like parking after the 100 had been agreed on, so having had his chance at a good deal, and then trying to screw us for more, he ended up loosing the lot. Although he did try and re-negotiate on our terms but he had lost by that stage and there was no way I was going to budge – so Chee sent him packing once again – poor bloke, we must have looked like silly tourists.

Quoted from cultural-china.com…

Since the Bao'en Temple Pagoda is in the north of the old town of Suzhou, it is also known as Beisi (North Temple) Pagoda . It is said to have first been constructed during the Three Kingdoms period by the order of Sun Quan, the King of Wu State, who prayed for the happiness of his mother. The extant pagoda was constructed between 1131 and 1162 during the Southern Song Dynasty.

“The octagonal, nine-storey pagoda, 76 meters high, was built of brick and wood. The base and outside walls were made of brick, and the foundation and balustrades were made of stone. Each storey has encircling eaves, balconies and banisters, all made of wood. The balconies are supported by brackets. The eaves around the first storey of the pagoda project quite extensively over the corridor below. Since each storey is smaller than the one below, the whole structure, with its upturned eaves, is an elegant, narrow, pyramidal shape. Inside the pagoda staircases reach the upper levees.

The interior of each storey is spacious. The steeple, standing lofty and graceful on top of the pagoda, is made of metal. To make the steeple strong and stable, the huge spike in the middle was firmly panted through the eighth and ninth levels of the pagoda. During repairs in 1960 and 1975 some valuable items, including a copper turtle, a statue of Buddha and some Buddhist relics, were found inside the steeple.”

Ok, most of that is true except the spacious interior bit!

This is a must do if in this area, and the climb to the top, although by staircase, is not for the faint hearted and sturdy boots needed.

After mucking about there for a while, we then chose to head to the “Humble Administrator’s Garden” to see what all the fuss was about. This was a 20-minute walk from the Pagoda to the edge of the garden area. It also houses the local museum and is surrounded by small shops and canals, complete with boat hire. The shops are again aimed directly at the tourist, however, there is none of the Shanghai in your face hawkers, and the prices reflect that as well.

We stopped for coffee in a house that was built in the 15[SUP]th[/SUP] century in traditional Chinese methods, also on the bank of a canal – the coffee was rubbish, but the ambience made up for it. After another 5 minute walk, we reached the gardens, paid the entrance fee, and walked into a far from humble garden.

Again, a must do if you are in Shanghai. You don’t need a guide and allow 3-4 hours to take it all in. Here’s a wiki…

Humble Administrator's Garden - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Leaving the gardens, we headed for the tour boats and hired a small boat with rower for a 40 minute tour of the canals. Time being quite limited as we had return rail tickets, we cut the tour to 30 minutes but worth every cent. The rower using a traditional single paddle also sung as well as explained the areas (in Chinese) we were passing. You don’t need to understand what he is saying to feel the emotion and the history, again worth every cent.

A taxi back to the rail station soon had us chewing up the miles back to Shanghai at 300km p/h and pondering tomorrow’s travels to Beijing. On arrival at the central station, we exchanged trains for a metro which we alighted at Pudong stop, which incidentally is at the doorstep of the Eton Hotel (well planned in booking) then walked 800 meters along Pudong Ave to the Novotel where after a very expensive round of drinks at the bar, we went up to the 85[SUP]th[/SUP] floor to the revolving restaurant and had dinner.

By the time we had completed one complete rotation, we were all pooped, and back at the Eton, we settled on a time to meet for the beginning of the next part of the holiday, High Speed (300+) train to Beijing.
 
My thoughts on Shanghai.

A mixture of the old and the new, a loss of culture, the lure of the dollar. Shanghai is the capitalist center of communist China and everyone is out to make a buck. If I had to describe Pudong, I would liken it to Sydney, then the other side of the river to Melbourne, never the two should mix, however they have, and the alloy that has formed is not something to be proud of.

The design of Pudong could be the workings of a lunatic who has been subjected to 52 weeks of Buck Rogers re-runs then forced to design and build a city using flashing lights and neon, building bricks of odd shapes, spheres, flying saucers, glass, chrome and of course endless funds to make the biggest and tallest of everything to prove his bamboo phallus is larger than everyone else’s.

Shanghai is a dream, it’s a dream boarding on a nightmare that has a magnetic attraction that makes me want to come back time and time again for reasons I can’t fathom. It’s not the people, its not the sights and smells, it’s not the westernized China. It could be the food, if fact, it could be some of the people, I’m not sure, but whatever it is, Shanghai will draw me back again to keep trying to discover the secret of the city.

A statement that rings true is “once you leave Shanghai, you enter China”.

The Copy Market.

Easy to reach, range from quality goods to absolute rubbish, bonus is only a few Chinese RMB separate the two. The copy market has not changed in the 2 years since I was last there, and I look forward to a visit again in the future – who knows, maybe next time I might buy something other than a sim card and a bracelet for my 6 year old nieces.

Eton Hotel.

Not ideally situated in Pudong although directly across from a metro stop which in turn opens the city up for a couple of RMD. Rooms were quite large for a standard hotel room, I would lean toward 4* rather than the advertised 5*, but very clean and very helpful staff. Expensive all round in everything from drinks, food and internet.

Shanghai Museum.

Always a winner although some exhibitions closed this visit. Allow a good 4 hours to walk the museum and good shoes! Most exhibits allow photography, however most don’t allow the use of a flash, so take a tripod if you are serious about getting some good photos. Take a plastic envelope/folder with you as each exhibit has a printed hand out available – they don’t last long if crammed into a backpack and if keeping for a souvenir, you will be disappointed in their seeming ability to self-destruct if not looked after.

The Tourist Tunnel.

Can I please have those 15 minutes of my life back?

The Bund.

Historic buildings and a nice walk along the river. Take a tripod for good photos of Pudong. Be aware that if you walk all the way to the International docks, you will need to walk back or use a taxi as there is no easy access to public transport.

Jing’an Temple

See previous thoughts. Unfortunately the tourist dollar has corrupted the cultural significance of many of the temples we have seen in Chinas main cities over the years, they have become slaves to the dollar. Leave the cities to experience better.

Suzhou

Worth the effort in getting there. The attractions are brilliant and although a tourist visited area, it still holds the charm associated with that feeling of you being the first tourist to see that (although easily you are not!). The old world (China) charm exists, and will be my Shanghai starting point next visit.
 
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Photos III

11.JPG

Its a long way to the top!

12.jpg

A view from a couple of floors up

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Old canal building converted to tea house - bad coffee!

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Longest canal network in the world.

15.jpg

Humble Administrator garden
 
Fab TR mate, look forward to more. Love the detailed and often humourous illustrations of your trip.
 
Nice TR...sounds like you had a blast of a time! We were in Shanghai 2 weeks prior, and have to admit my feelings about Shanghai were rather mixed - too Western for my liking compared with Beijing.
 
Am loving the TR and look forward to reading about Harbin again. I am seriously considering another trip there in 2013 having visited in 2010.

I find Shanghai is great to walk around. Did you visit Xintiandi?
 
Shanghai to Beijing - G train (new high speed rail)

December 28 2011

This morning we were up early and checking out of the hotel. The 2000RMB held against my credit card was reimbursed and the WiFi and coffee paid for, then out into the cold we went. Across the road and onto the metro quickly had us at the Hongqiao train stop – near Hongqiao airport where the train to Beijing was to depart from. The train station reminded me of an aircraft hanger and the public announcements would have made little children cry! The PA timing created an echo throughout the building which made it impossible to understand – assuming you understood Chinese as well.

Our train was minutes away from departure and after a few anxious moments waiting for the girls who had gone to find coffee, we went down onto the platform to board our train. The train was huge – as in very long, it was impressively long and by design the escalator from the boarding gate delivers you in approximately the center of the train where you turn left or right depending on carriage number.

Today we were travelling economy and were having second thoughts as to why we didn’t purchase first class! Once we saw our seating however, our fears were diminished of an uncomfortable ride as we quickly settled into large comfortable seats with tray tables, foot rests and in seat power. The train has WiFi, but available to business and first class only even though my MBA connected with good signal – interesting how the locked me out with no DNS.

The train left Honqiao and we said our goodbyes to Shanghai as we were whisked north at over 300 kph – ultra smooth and ultra quiet. One stop about an hour out of Shanghai at Nanging then non-stop to Beijing. The train seldom slowed to less than 300 kph and the distance was chewed up in no time at all, in fact a bit over 4 hours later, we were pulling into icy cold Beijing Railway station to disembark and find our hotel.

Another use of the metro had us pop up adjacent to the Holiday Inn Beijing although it took a little searching to find as the main signs were not at street side but 10 meters in from the road on their grounds. On check in, my suite had been upgraded to an executive suite and Mark had been upgraded to Executive Level – we are both Platinum Ambassador with Priority Club, both upgraded, yet both different gifts from the hotel. Mark free mini bar & 100RMB laundry daily, me nothing, hmmm…

After a brief lounge meet, we decided to head out in the cold and survey the area and get some food. We found a supermarket / department store immediately adjacent to the hotel, and after a bit of stocking up we decided on a sit down Chinese Pizza hut dinner which was very different (nice) than the rubbish home delivered in Australia and quite a different interesting menu.

Dinner over, we retired back to the lounge for a nightcap then called it a night.

High Speed Rail

WOW is my summation.

This rail ride left me wanting more. Like a really good J or F experience, there was certain disappointment that the ride wasn't longer. I find rail relaxing and on a train such as this, more enjoyable than air travel. If I was to use this method of transport again, I would spend the extra and use first class, although I found the soft economy we had adequate and put it in the same level of comfort as any domestic J seat available in AU. I have travelled the same route on a D train, the slower high speed network where the number of stops and the speed made the ride seem like an endurance race by the end and that was in F, whereas this was the opposite.

The downside of the use of economy was a couple of other PAX. One was smelly, the other didn't stop talking for 5 hours - really! All four of us wanted to throw this PAX off the train by hour 3, by hour 4 we had become axe wielding homicidal maniacs and by hour 5 mental cases... Was this a train problem, no it wasn't. It was our personal intolerance of other people bought on by an upbringing where we are taught to consider others as well as ourselves in all parts of our lives - a cultural thing. I now know how wars are started.
 
Am loving the TR and look forward to reading about Harbin again. I am seriously considering another trip there in 2013 having visited in 2010.

I find Shanghai is great to walk around. Did you visit Xintiandi?

No - all the areas visited mentioned. Shopping and dining were secondary to sightseeing, so a number of places were scratched off the must visit list from our previous visit.
 
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Great TR, really enjoying it. Have flown Shanghai-Beijing before but now I must try the train.
 
Thanks for the great report and photos. When I was in Shanghai I saw signage for the Tourist Tunnel and walked around in a fruitless effort to try and find it without any luck, sounds as though I didn't miss anything! Suzhou was also a highlight of my trip, it is a lovely spot. Looking forward to your continued report.
 
Great TR,

Sounds like you had an awesome time,

Look forward to more of your TR's
 
JUst want to add my note of appreciation for your TR also mate - love seeing the observations and how you describe them.

A couple of points:

1. Shanghai accomodation - if anyone is intending to book accom in SH - 3 words to remember - PUXI PUXI PUXI - the other side of the river - NEVER STAY IN PUDONG

2. Loud Chinese - there is no such thing as a private conversation in China - whether the conversation is face to face or over the phone - Chinese will shriek at the top of their voices - that is one aspect of Chines culture that you will NEVER get used to

3. The new SH-BJ train has had a double positive affect - not only do you now have availability of fast affordable comfortable train travel but it has also lead to decreased air fares between the cities - WIN / WIN

BTW - how was the warm Qingdao beer on the train?
 
JUst want to add my note of appreciation for your TR also mate - love seeing the observations and how you describe them.

A couple of points:

1. Shanghai accomodation - if anyone is intending to book accom in SH - 3 words to remember - PUXI PUXI PUXI - the other side of the river - NEVER STAY IN PUDONG

2. Loud Chinese - there is no such thing as a private conversation in China - whether the conversation is face to face or over the phone - Chinese will shriek at the top of their voices - that is one aspect of Chines culture that you will NEVER get used to

3. The new SH-BJ train has had a double positive affect - not only do you now have availability of fast affordable comfortable train travel but it has also lead to decreased air fares between the cities - WIN / WIN

BTW - how was the warm Qingdao beer on the train?

Actually, never had a beer on the train (!). last time on the D train Shanghai/Beijing, I drank every heineken they had (AU $1 each it would have been unAustralian not to!)

I have stayed previously at the Regent (now renamed) Puxi side - I personally prefer Pudong side, aligns better to my taste in bars and restaurants and toilets (;))
 
I have stayed previously at the Regent (now renamed) Puxi side - I personally prefer Pudong side, aligns better to my taste in bars and restaurants and toilets (;))
Ah yes the toilets in China.

Ok a word from the experienced - toilets are indeed the most difficult aspect of any visit to China - just remember one VERY VERY important thing - plan your day around your toilet habits - I am deadly serious here.

Dirty filthy smelly squatting pans are the norm in China outside 5 star hotels. Yes a broadly sweeping generalization - but if you start your day thinking "When I leave my hotel I probably will not see another toilet seat I can sit on until I return to my hotel at the end of the day" - and I am 100% serious here then you will get by.

Yes many better restaurants will have proper toilets - many won't - most Maccas and KFC's have squatting pans also so don't think they will save you - you gotta plan - different country different culture - visit China enough and you are gonna see some interesting times to say the least.

Now having said all that the toilets on the CRH trains are quite ok and staff on board who will clean for you if not satisfactory.
 
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