I was somewhat like you Roger, when I saw the LMM, circa 1991, I was quite disappointed. Remember it was a cold day with a howling wind in June. We had been at the Kastellet before and decided to brave the unseasonable weather. Got there, we all kind of went....meh!! And retreated to our hotel for wine and cheese. Being backpackers, it was a nasty flagon of german riesling and cheap edam and harvati if I recall correctly.