Touring western Turkey

[RooFlyer]

I've never been to Turkey, something I intend to change next year. Istanbul of course (and lots of TRs on that to keep me entertained ) but after that I'd like to visit some of the ancient cities down the west/Agean coast, such as Assos, Ephesus and Aphrodesias .

So some Turkey noob-ish questions . I'd only be going to places and areas which are pretty tourist-y; not the real back-blocks.

* Is (western) Turkey the type of place where you would drive yourself? Bad drivers and bad roads I can handle but I am concerned and try to avoid places where its basically rafferty's rules on the road, its always the tourist's fault if there is an accident and if its unlikely a policeman will have any English if something needs to be sorted out. That is, I'm not keen on spending the night in a Turkish jail if I happen to run over some-one's goat.

* Although these places are on or near the coast, I wouldn't want to do an Aegean cruise as I'd be paying a heap for the 'cruise', which to me would only be a means of transport. But can anyone refer me to boat services where you could basically hop down the coast from Istanbul, stopping off at the towns where you wanted to stay?

* What's Turkish (airline) like for its domestic services? Reliable/reputable? I have some reservations about the airline because of its rapid growth (think pilot training) but would be OK with them international, however domestic??

* Any other tips or tricks for getting about the west of Turkey?

Not necessarily this route (which goes close to Gallipoli of course), but these are the areas I'm talking about.

 

[Mattg]

I can't really help you with the questions about driving in Turkey, other than that I don't recall it being particularly dangerous.

But I flew Turkish Airlines domestically last year (IST-ESB-IST) and they were absolutely fine. The planes were relatively modern, flights ran on time and I was actually quite impressed with the service on board for a European short-haul flight in Y. Would happily fly again.

 

[BNEFlyer]

I was in Turkey in April for Anzac Day, on a bus tour. Went from Istanbul south towards Ankara, south to Antalya then west to Fethiye and up the west coast to Ephesus and Kusadasi then to Ayvalik to Canakkale, on the ferry to Eceabat to get to Gallipoli then back to Istanbul.

I found the roads throughout Turkey to be great, no different from Australian highways. Drivers weren't 'crazy' and stuck to the road rules for the most part. I'd have been happy to drive. If you did drive there are plenty of petrol stations and highway stops with restaurants to stop (we stopped at most of them!)

I'm not aware of any ferries down the west coast, only cruise options as you have mentioned. I didn't fly in Turkey but TK would be your best bet, though out of IST not SAW.

 

[Lizzi]

I haven't driven in Turkey, but I've used a lot of other transportation in the times I've been there.

TK is great — I'd definitely fly them domestically again. They do a great job with the short hops, giving meals etc and being on time.

The public buses are generally pretty good in terms of being prompt. You'll also be given some water and maybe a snack on the long-distance buses, and there are stops every hour or so for toilet breaks. I'll never take a night bus again though, because I don't sleep on them and value my sanity on arrival. On each trip (day and night), my group and I were told off multiple times for texting (or even using phones to read ebooks) as it would "interfere with the bus navigation system". Meanwhile, the driver was texting away merrily even while driving down the steep hills...

The train was great. Definitely the best form of land transportation for me. We took the sleeper train between Konya and Izmir, and it was a *much* more enjoyable journey than the night bus. It didn't quite run on time I think, but that's a small price to pay for the additional comfort.

Enjoy your planning! I love Turkey — it's one of my favourite destinations.

 

[Flying mermaid]

We flew with Turkish air domestically in 2009 and again this year. It was easy to book online. Thought they were much better this year - staff seemed very engaged and planes and food were good (flying J). We flew to Izmir and stayed in Selcuk, which was a pleasant little town with some interesting ruins and very close to Ephesus. From there we took a private tour to Pamukkale and Aphrodisias. Roads were excellent down to Pamukkale - 3 and 4 lane highways and in good condition. Smaller road to Aphrodisias, but still wouldn't call it bad. We had a driver and a guide for the day, so didn't take that much notice of traffic, except that we went really really fast. It seemed pretty normal driving. I have a trip report (around the world in 40 days) which has photos. From Izmir we went to Cappadocia, which was incredible.
.

 

[kpc]

To give you an idea, I did a (private) road tour with an ex in 2006...there was a driver, guide and the 2 of us...memory is fading but we took the overnight sleeper train from Istanbul to Ankara, then by car went to Kaymakali (caves -underground houses) Goreme, Cappadocia, Pamukalle (white salt plains), Hierapolis, Ephesus, Virgin Mary's birthplace (?where), Troy, Kusadasi, Canakkale, Gallipoli and then back to Istanbul, all in a week!...can't remember how many km's were driven but it was over 2000kms...Turkey is big! So you might want to take that into account and let someone else do the driving. Memory maybe a bit off, but I vaguely remember about USD1100 for both of us, including 6 nights in 3.5 star accommodation and some lunches / dinner so not expensive. The roads are fine and traffic outside the cities not an issue IIRC. It was a great trip...have always wanted to go back to Turkey but alas....

 

[amaroo]

Only done the return trip from IST down to Canakkale - easy highway driving.

My one experience with TK (ATH-IST) was excellent.

Other than that ... I can only point you towards my recent TR The Ballot for a view on IST and the Gallipoli Peninsula. Happy to answer any Q's you might have.

 

[Franky]

Hi Roo - have driven pretty much your route twice, once in a hire car 1996 with wife only, and again around 2003 with a hired van and 8 of us onboard. Roads are generally not as good as ours, but like home, some drivers are a bit suicidal. Thoroughly recommend doing your own thing. Did the obvious visits to Gallipoli, allow about a full day for that. Then across to Cannakle by car ferry, then Troy (now very exxy to look at), Assos (a gem), Ephesus (also a great visit), Antalya, Izmir and a few other places forgotten. Also allow at least 3 days for Istanbul, they've got the treasures there that the Greeks think they have. Also whilst in Istanbul, take the local ferry which goes up the channel to the Black Sea, it is is a commuter ferry and they stop at all the spots on both sides. It's a bit like a long ferry cruise on Sydney harbour. When you get to the last stop, get off and have lunch at one of the many fish restaurants there and get the next ferry back a couple of hours later - a great day relaxing. From memory there are ferries which go to the some of the ports south, but the distance is quite long and they weren't that frequent. We did use one which we took on our return to Istanbul during the 2003 trip from a little place near Bursa, and which was a car ferry built in Perth. Took about 2 hours across the Sea of Mamara and berths quite close to the freeway to the airport in Istanbul. Izmir and Antalya were then places that a jumbo jet from the UK used to arrive at every day full of Poms looking for some sun - most of the restaurants had British menus. Not sure what they are like now. You can also hire self drive cabin cruisers down that way, or join a small party (about 6-8) on a similar sized boat with crew. The flavour of the Government has changed since we were there last, the Army used to keep things in line by threatening a coup if the governing party went too far down the fundamentalist path, but not so now. Having said that, the Turks love Australians, despite our past history way back in WWI. It's a great place, you will love the ite, wish you well and wish we were going back again ourselves.

 

[Flying mermaid]

When we were in Antalya in 2009 it was packed with Russians - Turks told us that it was the place for sun and beach for them. Might have changed again. We visited Termessos about 30km inland and in the mountains. It is one of the ancient cities of Turkey and famous for Alexander the Great failing to conquer it. When you see the mountain pass you understand why. It was deserted after some major earthquakes but quite a fascinating place and quite different from the Hellenic ruins. If you make it down there I would really recommend visiting it.

Also at Ephesus pay the extra for the Terrace houses - well worth the small fee.

 

[RooFlyer]

Many thanks to those who replied so far .

Driving sounds OK for my likes/dislikes. My last few trips have been to places where I thought it both prudent and more enlightening to get a driver/guide but that ends up a bit expensive and less flexible, so hopefully I can do-it-myself in Turkey.

But if anyone can recommend a firm who offered driving/guides, then I'd happily check them out.

I'm thinking of about a week or so; not long enough of course, but it'll be at the end of 2 weeks in the Stans and three weeks is about all I can do these days.

Any other suggestions for a western Turkey itinerary would be welcome (for Istanbul, I'm using amaroo,s FM's and others TRs here as the 'go to' sources!

 

[OATEK]

We came ashore at Kusadasi and took a bus tour to Ephesus. Roads were quiet in April, and the buses doing 3-point turns at the top gate of Ephesus were the biggest danger. But the roads were good, and traffic quiet.

 

[Franky]

(I'm thinking of about a week or so; not long enough of course, but it'll be at the end of 2 weeks in the Stans and three weeks is about all I can do these days.)

If you only have a week, then I suggest you allow 3 days for Istanbul, a day and a half to get to and a good look at Gallipoli, there's not a bad market in Cannakle but probably the wrong day for you, miss Troy, 2 nights and a day at Assos (the drive down the cliff face is not for the faint hearted!), can't not go to Ephesus, then a fast drive back along the central road towards Bursra to the ferry terminal in a small town to the northwest of it. I think it is called Bandirma, but the people in the hotel at Assos at the time knew of it and gave us directions. The hotel to stay in at Assos is the first you come to at the bottom of the hill, and they have their alfresco restaurant right in front and you'll be able to dip your hands in the water of the small boat harbour as you admire the view. Parking is tight down there, the hotel will arrange it for you. Best of luck.

 

[mark4217]

I have driven across Turkey a couple of times and it's easy. The OP's map was my first trip and I added a drive across to Goreum (an absolute MUST SEE) This is my tip, when you get back or close to IST, pull up and wave down a taxi. Then one of you get in the taxi and shown him your hotel details and explain that the other traveler will follow. That way the taxi navigates IST. That was about the hardest part of driving in Turkey.

 

[JohnM]

I have driven across Turkey a couple of times and it's easy. The OP's map was my first trip and I added a drive across to Goreum (an absolute MUST SEE) This is my tip, when you get back or close to IST, pull up and wave down a taxi. Then one of you get in the taxi and shown him your hotel details and explain that the other traveler will follow. That way the taxi navigates IST. That was about the hardest part of driving in Turkey.

That sounds clever, but have you tried navigating there with a GPS? My experience in all sorts of places where traffic is a little, shall we say, dense and fast-moving but - unlike PER and Australia in general :evil: - with competent and decisive drivers (eg. Naples and Valparaiso as a couple of the more interesting examples spring to mind), a GPS makes it pretty easy.

 

[Franky]

That sounds clever, but have you tried navigating there with a GPS? My experience in all sorts of places where traffic is a little, shall we say, dense and fast-moving but - unlike PER and Australia in general :evil: - with competent and decisive drivers (eg. Naples and Valparaiso as a couple of the more interesting examples spring to mind), a GPS makes it pretty easy.

I did my trips before GPS was invented. It wasn't the finding my around that bothered me, just the volume of traffic in the inner parts of Istanbul. I got around most of that by hiring the car from the airport, getting to and from there on the public transport.

 

[Bindibuys]

We arrive IST 21/10/16, booked in to hotel for 3 nights, then was allowing 2 nights away Gallopoli/Troy/Ephesus. Then another 2 nights back in the city.

I would like to do a self drive, but not really confident.
We are looking to book this tour with RSL Tours.

Gallipoli Battlefields Tours RSL
hi BB, thank you for your enquiry. You're welcome any day as we run ourtours everyday round the year. Its cost is 375EUROs per person as per theitinerary below.
P-up and drop-ff at Double Tree Old Town is OK.
To secure the booking we request 30% of the totalcost as non-refundable deposit by filling the attached form and sending useither as email attachment or by fax, please. You can pay also via Paypalto the personal email address of the boss thus [email protected]and NO filled-form needed if you prefer paypal method. After havingmade the payment, please let me know the method you've preferred.
You'll receive our confirmation voucher uponcompletion of the bank transaction. Balance to be payed upon your arrival inEceabat Town where the tour starts after the lunch, either in EURO, orTurkish Lira or USD or AUD, cash please. We have facility for C.C.payments but will have to add 3% for bank commission.
Please advise room type you prefer for yourovernight in Eceabat and Selcuk. Best regards/GAVIN

 

[JohnM]

I would like to do a self drive, but not really confident.

Not the right attitude BB​!

 

[Bindibuys]

Not the right attitude BB​!

OK, re-phrase, I am not confident in AB's driving in a non-english speaking country. He wants to "look around" too much instead of eyes on the road.

 

[JohnM]

OK, re-phrase, I am not confident in AB's driving in a non-english speaking country.

I'm sure you could provide instructions . But a GPS is the greatest relationship-saver ever invented .

 

[Franky]

We arrive IST 21/10/16, booked in to hotel for 3 nights, then was allowing 2 nights away Gallopoli/Troy/Ephesus. Then another 2 nights back in the city.

I would like to do a self drive, but not really confident.
We are looking to book this tour with RSL Tours.

Gallipoli Battlefields Tours RSL
hi BB, thank you for your enquiry. You're welcome any day as we run ourtours everyday round the year. Its cost is 375EUROs per person as per theitinerary below.
P-up and drop-ff at Double Tree Old Town is OK.
To secure the booking we request 30% of the totalcost as non-refundable deposit by filling the attached form and sending useither as email attachment or by fax, please. You can pay also via Paypalto the personal email address of the boss thus [email protected]and NO filled-form needed if you prefer paypal method. After havingmade the payment, please let me know the method you've preferred.
You'll receive our confirmation voucher uponcompletion of the bank transaction. Balance to be payed upon your arrival inEceabat Town where the tour starts after the lunch, either in EURO, orTurkish Lira or USD or AUD, cash please. We have facility for C.C.payments but will have to add 3% for bank commission.
Please advise room type you prefer for yourovernight in Eceabat and Selcuk. Best regards/GAVIN

Self drive will be OK, if you survive in Sydney, you can survive Istanbul/Turkey. Having said that, two nights only for Gallipoli, Troy, Ephesus will be a rush. First time for us at Troy it was quite cheap, last time in 2003 the price from memory was over US$50 per head, so we gave it a miss. Given you're going so far, I would recommend at least an extra day to really experience what you will be able to see at these two special places.