Circle Asia and Flounging.

[drron]

Now its time to take advantage of my AAdvantage status.A circle asia trip-BNE-SYD-PVG-HKG-SGN//BKK-SIN-KUL-SIN-BNE.
Start off on sunday 27/4.Bruce Hway a car park mid trip-however had anticipated this so an 11am start for a 1415 flight.So no problems until we get to BNE security.This time a pair of tweezers and a sewing kit confiscated-these have been going around the world for 10 years and since 9/11 have been through over 200 security checks but this time deemed dangerous weapons.Only in BNE.No great value and sewing kit will be replaced at next hotel.
Time for an hour in the QP.Last day of NSW school hols and the QP is a zoo-ankle biters everywhere-food disappears as soon as it is put down so happy when finally called for flight.Row 5 at back of the business cabin of 767.Coming to expect this from QF as recognition of defection to AA.Served our refreshment as the PA announces the start of descent into SYD.Pity there is not FEBO on QF as this is QF533.However bags did get business tags and amongst first out so off to our night at the Ibis.Fine for a night and here so we can have an early start in the morning at the Flounge.Do the right thing at night and go and visit my father for his 88th birthday.
Up early and off to the airport on the 6am shuttle.Off to the first class checkin only to find our PVG flight doesnt open until 6.30am-a few more wasted minutes.Amazing our 2 bags weigh only 9.7 and 11.6kg.Best we have ever done!Get our express passes-11 pax head off for Immigration and 10 of us take express turn!No time saved at all.Once through off to Flounge.I must say this is impressive and obviously the only way one should prepare for an OS flight.
Breakfast served in the restaurant-very good although the Bircher muesli is not the way i would prepare it-no worries later on will get some good stuff at the KL Hilton.Most of the time spent watching the interactions and seeing how many pax in the Flounge are greeted by name-oh well never mind this will not be me.
Before we know it we are off to board QF129 on our way to PVG for the first time and 25 years since our last visit to China.Should be a little different.But that is for the next instalment.

 

[drron]

Checking in early at the first class line at least gets us row 2,even though the middle seats.Everyone else in the front cabin of the Airbus seems to be regulars with the exception of the couple in 1 J,K.Nearly all the FAs know Mr.1B by name.Settle down with my first Mis-En-Cave.Unfortunately all the movies i felt like watching that are in the April guide are not on this flight but I settle in to watch Daniel day Lewis in There will Be Blood.About 11am lunch is served,well it is already 1pm in AKL so fair enough to start drinking.They have a Potts Langhorne Creek cabernet today.i have been drinking the offerings from this vineyard since the 60s so this is the way to go.Choose the slow cooked lamb shank which turns out to be a reasonably tasty lamb casserole,Sam K would be proud.
Desserts are not spectacular so have the cheese plate washed down with a couple of glasses of Baileys muscat.Now I do believe that muscats and tokay are done by the Victorians particularly well.Now settle back to watch the doco on the Galapagos islands where we will be in 15 weeks,then American Gangster.By this time it is time for the evening meal-about 6.30pm or just 4.30 PVG time.This time it is the seared salmon for me-I do enjoy it this way but Mrsdrron doesnt so she has the beef.Unfortunately for her she is served the thickest slice of carpaccio she has ever seen-might be better if they asked how you like your beef.No matter I am back into the muscat after the mains and the worries disappear.
About 30 minutes late into PVG and arrive at Terminal 2 which has been open only a month.No other flight so it is straight through,bags out pretty quickly so within 25 minutes sitting in the taxi ready to go to the St.Regis.This is another purpose of this trip.Have just been comped to SPG platinum so 2008 is being used to compare SPG and Hilton.Next instalment for that though.

 

[Keith009]

Awesome stuff, drron. Thanks for the comprehensive overview of wines. Look forward to hearing about your SPG PLT treatment.

 

[docjames]

Not off to the smoothest start!!

Keep us updated!

 

[drron]

Well an interesting taxi ride to the St,Regis.Our driver obviously had taken a vow never to be overtaken by another taxi.Still not as quick as the Maglev which we will probably use on the trip back to the airport.arrive at the St. regis wondering about reception as no new card from SPG as only status matched 3 weeks ago.No problems.Rocked up to the gold/plat checkin and after taking copies of our passports escorted to our suite.I had paid lowest available price.They have free wifi,a fruit bowl that is replenished and lounge access-these are for all guests though breakfast in lounge only for elites.Also have a bottle of wine plus chocolates.So far so good.
Go to connect to internet and cant-I am definitely not tecno savvy.Call the butler who is also stumped so he calls the IT dept.5 minutes later the IT manager is in my room and all connected.Starting to love this elite recognition.Thanks QF009 it was some of your trip reports that finally pushed me into doing this.Lounge staff are great.Met an american businessman there who stays a lot.Was his birthday last weekend and he arrives back in his room Friday to find flowers,chocolates wine,cheese plate and tickets to the weekends BMW golf tournament.I might have to keep coming back!
Originally reading reviews for the St.Regis many felt it was too far from the action.Well we are lucky and have a car and driver available to us for most afternoons and evenings but when we have to rely on public transport there are no problems apart from one taxi driver who would not take us back across the river as when we showed him the hotel card he pronounced I can not read Chinese!Besides there are quite a few restaurants close to the hotel and a new shopping precinct about 10 minutes easy walk away.As the St.Regis was about $100 a night cheaper than the other SPG offerings and the Hilton I think it does deserve consideration.
Next instalment attractions and the food scene.

 

[Keith009]

Thanks drron for your reassuring assessment of the Pudong location. I intend to stay at the W Pudong once that opens but was initially apprehensive about the location - I am hence pleased that you found the location ok. Might be a bit far from the nightclubs though but traffic should be quiet at night - plus I expect the W to have a happenin' bar scene anyway.

I'm currently booked at the Westin Bund Centre for late Sept, at the cheapest flexible rate. Reservation already reflects a suite upgrade.

 

[drron]

Tuesday morning and a leisurely stroll down to the Jinmao tower-30 minutes and we are there.Up to the 88th floor to the observation lounge.The posters say you can see to the mouth of the Yangtze river-today we can barely see the Bund.You can look down inside to the 56th floorand the Grand hyatts restaurant floor.This is currently the highest hotel in the world.next door they are building the Shanghai financial centre which is going to be higher so is going to contain a Park Hyatt so hyatt still retains the record.
Meet with our contact in shanghai and then on the way in the A6L to the Shanghai museum.No entrance fee but you still have to line up and collect a ticket then hand it straight back in.Spend an hour or so admiring the copies of the original artefacts now in taipei then a walk around Peoples Park and on to Nanjing road.This is a disappointing place.Not great shopping or eating but lots of touts and beggars.Much better places in this town.get picked up as arranged and decide that we are not that hungry so dinner is in the lounge.
Next morning the car is not available so we do a walk around the hotel.Found a small local market off Pudian road just to the west of the hotel-quite interesting.Quite a few shops and restaurants but we decide to lunch at the hotels Chinese restaurant.Food is good but expensive so will not eat here again.
Next instalment-Old Town and a night on the Bund.

 

[drron]

Wednesday afternoon and we are dropped off at the Yu gardens in Old town.Now this is a spot worth visiting even if just to read all the shinglish signs.One menu proudly proclaims that they have stinky bean tur*,presume they mean tofu.The gardens are an oasis in this busy metropolis.The surrounding streets are a reproduction of old shanghai and have every type of thing you would want shopping.About 30% of original price appears the max when bargaining.Touts here as well but not as persistent as on the malled section of Nanjing road.
Walk then past several construction sites down to the Bund.A real mess at the moment because they have just demolished the elevated road-should make it better in the long run though.Walk the length of the walkway and keep getting offered skates-now why do these people dislike me so much that they want to cripple me-I am already walking with a limp due to a ****y knee.
Off up Beijing road and then to the east end of the Nanjing mall.Even more touts now.get a good laugh with a group of Russians trying to stuff all their merchandise into their knockoff LV cases.Have dinner at a teahouse in the Shanghai foods centre-OK and certainly cheap.
Then the saga of getting a taxi.This is where we get knocked back showing our St.Regis address in chinese and the driver telling us he cant read chinese.Wonder what he makes of the street signs.
Thursday morning we spend at the shopping area at South Pudong and Zhangyang road.A 10 minute walk from the hotel.Mayday and all the locals are out but no touts or beggars.Department store,designer shops local stores and an electronics mall with all the fast food outlets and many other restaurants.We have lunch at the Charme restaurant-Beijing duck,scallops beef and pork washed down with Tsingtao at less than $40 for 2.Good value.
Night off to the Bund.Their has been electricity rationing with lights turned off at 8.30pm.However for the 3 day holiday all buildings are allowed to leave them on until 11.30pm.Start off with drinks at the New Heghts bar on top of 3 at the Bund.Great for the view.Then down a floor to Laris for dinner.Actually hard to remind yourself this is a communist country.Great food well presented.However 3 courses for 3 with wine is about $500 so not for those on a budget.If you like great food though it is worth it and the view is spectacular.
Next the buildings of Shanghai and the Museum of Urban planning-dont be put off by the name.

 

[drron]

Friday and first stop is again Peoples Park but this time The Museum of Urban Planning.Now I thought this is going to be boring but definitely not.Second floor has a history of Shanghai.There is also a show comparing photos from the 80's compared with photos this decade from the same spot-boy has it changed.Upstairs and there is a scale model of Central Shanghai as it is plus approved developements including the Expo site-0this is huge.2 more floors up and you can look down on the model plus an Imax show and plans for the 2 airports,deepwater port and where it is proposed Shanghai will expand.mindblowing.
Off now to xintiandi.A redevoled lilong with trendy bars and restaurants plus some shopping.Dont forget the Open House Museum which explains lilong life.Lunch at the luna bar-good and not expensive.There is a south american restaurant where carnivores can fill up with all you can eat BBQ for less than $15.
A short break fopr a nanny nap and then to the Shanghai centre-home of the Ritz-carlton.Walk through the upscale Plaza 66 shopping centre next door then Citic square with virtually all the same name brands and on to Isetan.Then cross Nanjing road and look for the little doorway leading into a lilong.Not far in and the city noise disappears.What a contrast to what we have seen the other side of the road.Went through,turned right and came across a little park.Old fellows playing Mahjong,others ballroom dancing to their portable radio.
Back to the Shanghai centre and a quick dinner at elements Fresh.Good food at very reasonable prices and an interesting menu with asian twists.Then upstairs to the theatre and the acrobats show.My goodness what these people can do with their bodies especially the young woman who turns around and around whilst balancing 8 candelabras.Can reccomend this show.
Over the road is the Shanghai Exhibition centre and in the street at its western edge is a lineup of 12 bars-told this is the place for some serious drinking on the weekend-I'm sure some of you younger folks could find enough trouble there.
Next a walk around the French concession and dinner at T8.

 

[drron]

Saturday and off to the French concession.We had been lent books-6 walks in Shanghai and 6 More Walks in Shanghai.Very worthwhile if you have a few days or are a return visitor.See the sites off the beaten track.The walk we selected starts at The Old china hand reading room at 27 Shaoxing rd.You could read the book there while having a cup of coffee.Walk takes you past villas,art deco apartment blocks,down lilongs and on to Dr.Sun Yat sens Shanghai residence and museum before ending at the Ruijin guest house and compound.What a magnificent residence this would have been in the 30s.Several restaurants and tomorrow we will go back to Lanna Thai.Also a trendy bar-the Face bar(who have opened a branch in Pudong).The place backs onto Maoming road which a local guide describes as being a favoured place of Shanghai's flirtatious ladies-whoever they may be.
Then to lunch at Ginger at 299 Fuxing rd-just go through the archway to the back.Good simple food with Asian influence and not expensive.Apparently a good bar upstairs though at Ginger Y30 coughtails between 5 and 8pm.After lunch went to Lane210 Taiking road.Again from the street it looks like nothing there but inside many trendy bars,restaurants and galleries.another branch of Ginger here but serving western food.This apparently is the new favoured hangout of young expats.
Then another nanny nap before back to Xintiandi and dinner at T8.Another extraordinary restaurant.Food better than at Laris with presentation excelling.Laris being on the Bund still wins with location.3 courses for 3 with wine came to $450 but worth it.Much cheaper if you dont drink wine.however a place I will return to.I had a slow cooked lamb in Sichuan style pie with a coriander curry sauce-magnificent.The other 2 had lobster and scallops.Save room for desserts-very yummy.
Next instalment-our last day in Shanghai before flying off to vietnam.

 

[Keith009]

Did you get to meet any of those "flirtatious ladies"?

I only saw the French Concession at 3am last time I was there, whilst only tenuously sober. Also missed out on 210, so I intend to check out the place more fully next time. Will grab some of those walking books prior to my next visit per your suggestion.

 

[drron]

Well i think I met a flirtatious lady but in a shop in Old town.The conversation went like this-
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy silk pyjamas.
drron:no.
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy t-shirt.
drron:no
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy pretty chinese lady.
drron,blushes and leaves.

 

[Evan]

Well i think I met a flirtatious lady but in a shop in Old town.The conversation went like this-
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy silk pyjamas.
drron:no.
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy t-shirt.
drron:no
Pretty Chinese Lady:you want to buy pretty chinese lady.
drron,blushes and leaves.

Thats very subtle of them usually they are much quicker to get to the point !
E

 

[drron]

Well our last day and the first day of rain so instead of our planned walks it was by taxi to the Bund for a closer look at the architecture of the individual buildings.The plan was then to take the tourist tunnel back to the Pearl Tower and down to the Supermall for some shopping.However at the tourist tunnel we were met by the sign-Correctly we are fixing the train.may be an hour ,Sorry.So we went and had a coffee and returned but to the sign was added But not today.So a taxi back to hotel-24 yuan by the way so $A4.
Had lunch next door to the St.Regis at a shanghai chain-Jade Garden and food quite acceptable and not too badly priced.Dinner was off to the Ruijin complex again-118ruijin st.Had dinner at Lanna Thai and it was very good.Started with drinks at face bar-another trendy spot.This place is worth a visit during the day to see the magnificent style that the Expats lived in the 20s and 30s.The grounds are huge.
We have enjoyed our stay here and will be back for Expo 2010.I can certainly reccomend the St.regis especially if itsprice remains significantly below the other SPG hotels.
next CX to SGN.

 

[drron]

Well monday morning and we decide to take the offer of the free car trip to the airport.The Maglev will have to wait.Funny but the driver took us a completely different route to the taxi and despite being the morning peak hour we were at the airport in 35 minutes.Now had to wait for check in.We are booked on a CX flight to HKG and most from Shanghai are operated by KA.We booked our trip well before KA joined OW and although we knew KA would be in OW when we travelled we could not get their flights.We had to wait until a few KA counters were switched to CX.Interesting is that a 2 class flight so no F checkin but at the other end our bags came out with CX F luggage tags.
Off to the OW lounge.CX/KA only moved to terminal 2 on 29/4 and operate the lounge.Much better than the reports of previous PVG lounges.Open,bright and good views of aircraft movements and the shipping just off shore.Reasonable food andv good alcohol selection-and as the sun was over the yardarm in AKL already a good time to drink.Margaret river chardy and a french white.Napa shiraz and a Burgundy.Good food selection reminiscent of the HKG lounges even a fake long bar.
Onto the plane a 777 with regional business seating.Allocated row 14 so thought we would be at the back of J cabin but window seating begins at row 12 and no row 13.Only 14 J pax and at meal service 7 FAs serving,2 preparing and purser supervising.Great service naturally and pretty good food.CX at its best.
Arrive in HKG a little early and off to Pier Flounge in next instalment.

 

[drron]

Well the Flounge at the pier in HKG was a disappointment-maybe because I was expecting a lot.Seemed quite dark compared to the J lounge.Had problems with the wifi and so used one of their computers so didnt get to experience the food.Good being served your drinks.Oh well just have to wait until October and give it another chance..Soon it is of to CX765 to SGN.
This time an airbus with the new J seats.However a full complement in the J cabin this time with only 3 male FAs and 1 doing the preparing.Glass got empty too easily.Not such great service.I felt the new seat was also a little hard on my posterior.Arrive in SGN early.Bags are out third and fifth with their first class tags.Unfortunately this means we must wait a while for our transport.Also it is afternoon peak hour and the 7 km trip into the Sheraton takes over an hour.First impressions have Ho Chi Minh city rating with Port Moresby in the cities of the world table.
Fortunately the Sheraton although obviously busy comes through.Get a studio room which is a lot larger than that on the cheap rate we booked.Although not on club floor we get lounge access with its free wifi.Quite a good lounge and up to most Hilton lounges that I am used to.Staff are great and by second day know us by name.Good hot breakfast and so we did not use the restaurant option which we also had available.Fruit platter,all the bottled water we wanted and 500 starpoints as plat amenity as well as 500 point booking bonus and extra 2000 points on promo.So far SPG is scoring much better than Hhonors.
Next instalment the delta and Hoi An.

 

[drron]

After a good nights sleep at the Sheraton saigon it was off to test the bargaining skills in Ho Chi Minh City.Just to start with an aside money changing in China and Vietnam does not follow all the rules.In Shanghai I got a much better effective rate from the hotel rather than airport or bank.In Vietnam I actually was better off changing my US dollars into Dong than Aussie dollars even though I had already paid one lot of transaction fees to get those US dollars.
Saigon is a madhouse.Everyone is after that almighty US dollar.They might find themselves in trouble if the sub prime crisis goes further.Basically it was not cheap.Yes there are cheap clothes and shoes etc but you gets what you pay for.Ran into plenty of us foreigners acknowledging the mistakes they made-ie any cotton garment made here will shrink 2 or 3 sizes after first wash.
The other major disappointment is the food-yes it is cheap enough but if I want good Vietnamese food at the present I will still head for Bridge Road in Melbourne.
The next day it was back in the traffic to get to the Mekong delta for a boat trip and lunch.It is interesting and everywhere we ask about schooling and health care.The answer is always the same-it is not free.School can be 2-400,000 dong per month and these subsistence workers only get 30-50,000 per day.So much for the benefits of communism.
Lunch was in an old french style villa that had been in the Vietnamese owners family for ~80 years.How come I asked?The owner was very good to the North Vietnamese soldiers I was told.The Americans should have packed up and gone home much earlier than they did.
Next instalment-Air Vietnam and meeting a local A7 pilot.

 

[drron]

Thursday morning and another struggle with Saigon traffic.today is the first flight on VN and in Y as well.fortunately only an hour.Sail through checkin,through security with our waters etc and have 45 minutes before boarding.Look longingly at the VN lounge wondering what I am doing on the outside.All the locals are buying food-maybe this is a sign of VNs catering quality.
Message comes across PA in Vietnamese and before we have time to move the boarding line already has most pax in it.Onto a leased China Airlines Airbus 333.2-4-2 seating in Y and fortunately we are next to a window.N o safety video so the safety demo is done twice-english and vietnamese.Captain Anwar Khan introduces himself-good vietnamese name I am sure and off we gnly an hour in the air and we are given a lunch box with some water and a salami and ham roll.
Land at Danang past all the reinforced concrete hangars.Down the stairs and onto a crowded bus to the terminal-37C and 90% humidity.Fortunately bags are out quick still with their CX ist tags.Our guide and driver are waiting so off to Hoi an.Our guide flew A7s in the American war-more of his story later.
Drive past China Beach which is undergoing a great transformation.recognise signs for a Grand Hyatt,Crowne Plaza and Raffles hotel.Looks like it will be just a continuous line of resorts.finally pull up at our digs-the Victoria Hoi An beach resort.
That will be the next instalment.

 

[drron]

The Victoria is a French run hotel.complete with the old Renault busses outside.Nice rooms-those in the 300's are beachside,the 200's behind them but 203-206 face a gap in the 3oo rooms so look out onto the South China sea.We are in 204.Breakfast is good.The first night we try their Vietnamese buffet but sadly very ordinary.Have lunch in town twice-first at a local restaurant which was not good then at the Cargo Club which was much better.
Some interesting sites in Hoi An and interesting history of Japanese traders.apart from that it is a place to go if you think it is good to get cheap clothes and shoes made and collect dust collecting knick knacks.As a beach resort Fiji is much better.
One night go to a seafood restaurant just down the road from the hotel-fortunately there is little you can do to ruin fresh lobster-again the rest was very forgettable.
One of my highlights is getting to talk to our guide.A different slant on the history as it is written now.Flew A7s out of Saigon and ended up in the squadron assigned to guard the Palace.Hence after 1975 it was the reeducation camps.His view on the South losing was that 70% of South Vietnamese were not happy with the result but in the long run the south is going to prevail anyway because of the economic changes taking place.
So far our Vietnamese odyssey is not shaping up well but things are about to make a good change.Next instalment -the road to Hue.

 

[Keith009]

An interesting read thus far, keep it up.

Sorry to hear Vietnam isn't shaping up the way you expected. I've never been, nor have I ever been enticed to go. Your TR isn't helping either. I mean despite all the hype I've never seen any incentive to go as it's neither this nor that - not a party town like Bangkok, nor a shopping paradise like Hong Kong or Tokyo, nor clean, efficient and safe like Singapore, nor modern and forging ahead like Shanghai. I'd also gladly travel all the way to Asia to check out authentic Japanese cuisine but not sure if I'd do the same with Vietnamese (and from this TR it seems the Vietnamese restos in Melbourne are better anyway).

The other major disappointment is the food-yes it is cheap enough but if I want good Vietnamese food at the present I will still head for Bridge Road in Melbourne.

I think you meant Victoria St, where all the Vietnamese restos are.
Bridge Rd is the shopping street.