JohnM
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After a few diversions and distractions since I arrived home from my 7-week 2014 DONE5 in mid-October, I’ve gotten around to doing a TR.
This TR will focus on the Atacama Desert part of the trip, rather than have a muddled RTW report. It was the more unusual part of the trip, and the bit that I was particularly looking forward to. To kick off, here’s the outline of the DONE5:
RTW aficionados will immediately notice the ‘deliberate mistake’ – two trans-cons in Australia. Originally, the second-last sector was CX HKG-ADL, followed by QF ADL-PER, just to make sure of using all 16 sectors. Subsequently the HKG-ADL was cancelled, so a phone call to QF resulted in the HKG-MEL-PER routing (and a few more SCs and points).
Here’s the routing: PER-SYD-xDFW-YYC-xDFW-RIC-xDFW-SFO-xJFK-xSCL[SCL-ANF-SCL as a separate whY booking] -xMAD-LHR-TXL-LHR-xHKG-xMEL-PER.
This was the mission plan:
YYC to rent a car for a few days in Glacier National Park in Montana (and the smaller Waterton Lakes Park on the Canadian side). I had the great pleasure of meeting RooFlyer, the doyen of AFF TRs, over good steak and plenty of wine on a balmy evening in Calgary.
It was then over to RIC to rent a car and check out various Civil War and War of Independence historical sites in Virginia, drive the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park (160 km) and the Blue Ridge Parkway from end-to-end (750 km Virginia to North Carolina). Both are listed amongst the ‘World’s great drives’ – and rightly so. Highly recommended.
Then it was a visit with friends at Clemson, a university town in South Carolina, over to Savannah Georgia, then looping back to Richmond via Charleston SC and Williamsburg VA. Then it was over to SFO for the weekend, followed by a sweet little SC-earner across to JFK in F on the new AA A321T. From JFK to SCL on LAN for my first ride in a B787, separate whY booking SCL-ANF-SCL to rent a car and head into the Atacama, back to SCL and over to MAD (LAN B787 again) and on to LHR.
A couple of nights in London, then over to Berlin for a few days where I had the pleasure of meeting Mattg, kermatu and *A Flyer and chowing down with them on sensational traditional pork knuckle and grosse biers. Another great AFF night!
I then rented a car and drove to Dresden before looping back to Berlin via Leipzig (checking out the (in)famous Colditz Castle POW prison on the way - fascinating BTW) and on to home.
OK- turning to the Atacama Desert. A regional map to show the location in N Chile and a map of my route. It borders Argentina, Bolivia and Peru.
The red lines show the main route: Antofagasta-San Pedro de Atacama-xTocopilla to Iquique along the coast-xArica to Putre in the far N-back to Arica for a night and then an 8-hour haul straight down Ruta 5 back to Antofagasta overnight and out to SCL the next day.
The blue lines show schematically the day trips out to parks and sights in the high country.
After a night in Antofagasta, Chile’s second city, I headed inland to San Pedro. Cities on the coast in N Chile sit on a very narrow coastal plain, with what seems like an enormous sand dune backdrop very quickly leading up to the 1500-2000m coastal plateau. Beyond that is the altiplano at around 4500m leading up to the Andean cordillera where Chile borders its neighbours.
Antofagasta is a large city, stretching along the very narrow coastal plain. It’s nothing special and there is a definite mining boom-town feel. Unlike Karratha or Port Hedland, it’s a true big city but, nevertheless has the same mining-town feel, albeit like being on a monster dose of steroi_s. Note the big ‘sand dune’ escarpment in the background – it really dominates the coastal cities of N Chile.
Driving out of Antofagasta and getting on to the famous Ruta 5 (Pan America Highway), the Chileans have not wasted their mining boom. The roads are superb. All the road surfaces are proper tarmac (ie. Hotmix, like our freeways), not the coughpy Australian coarse-chip surface that results in so much tyre roar that even the best car manufacturers struggle to eliminate within their vehicles. It’s dual carriageway to around Calama, a major copper-mining town (sort of like Newman on really serious steroi_s). FIFO does not seem to occur in Chile on the mass scale of Australia, so mining towns have very large new dormitory suburbs spreading everywhere.
I’ve done a lot of driving in Australia, but Chile makes roads like Great Eastern Highway to Kalgoorlie and on to the east, Great Northern Highway to Newman and beyond and NW Coastal Highway to Port Hedland and beyond look (and, particularly, sound) very largely like second-rate efforts. The Chilean main roads, even the non-dual carriageway sections are like driving on Australian intra-city freeway surfaces – but they connect hugely-separated places. It makes for very relaxed driving, even in the rugged manual diesel 4WD dual-cab without cruise-control vehicle I had.
Antofagasta; dual-carriageway section of Ruta 5 on the way to Calama; big mining truck bits; a roadhouse Atacama style - bring your own shady tree...
Mining (predominantly copper) is huge in the region. Like in the Pilbara, there are 4WD dual-cabs with flags, reflective markers, roll bars and beacons buzzing everywhere. The only difference is that the favoured colour there is red, not white. Why, I do not know. I joined the party and had a Hertz red dual cab replete with whopping reflective signs, roll bars and wheel chocks on cables. It was clearly just off a mine site and did get a few stares in some of the more remote tourist regions I visited – along with considerable scepticism from the Carabinieri at a mandatory checkpoint when I, with hopeless Spanish, tried to explain to the non-English speaking officer that I was merely a tourist.
My ‘mining certified office’ for a couple of weeks (but I’m a mere tourist!). I felt like a bit of a dill at times as people seemed to stare at this ‘worker’ cruising around national parks – but that’s what Hertz gave me. Well protected on the inside; the secondary road towards San Pedro; at ANF you can have any colour you like, as long as it’s red...
There’s copper in them thar hills; mine dumps that say something to a chemist about the extraction process; a very dusty view of the huge Chuquicamata mine at Calama – with power lines running right in front of the view-point; the end product - electrochemically refined to copper metal on site (hence power lines everywhere). The train had about an equal number of copper wagons and acid (sulphuric, IIRC) tank wagons.
One thing that I think is worth noting about travelling in Chile and Argentina if you have not been there or are considering some independent travel in the region is the truly amazing bus system. I’ve never used them, as I prefer to be totally independent, but after much observation it just has to be about the best long-distance bus system in the world.
There are many bus companies and countless buses, all extremely modern, high quality and immaculately clean and well-presented. Many of the buses are double-deck with full cama lay-back seating of business-class standard I’ve been told. The single deck buses are semi cama. Here are a few pics to underscore, at least from the outside, what I’m saying.
Cont...
This TR will focus on the Atacama Desert part of the trip, rather than have a muddled RTW report. It was the more unusual part of the trip, and the bit that I was particularly looking forward to. To kick off, here’s the outline of the DONE5:
RTW aficionados will immediately notice the ‘deliberate mistake’ – two trans-cons in Australia. Originally, the second-last sector was CX HKG-ADL, followed by QF ADL-PER, just to make sure of using all 16 sectors. Subsequently the HKG-ADL was cancelled, so a phone call to QF resulted in the HKG-MEL-PER routing (and a few more SCs and points).
Here’s the routing: PER-SYD-xDFW-YYC-xDFW-RIC-xDFW-SFO-xJFK-xSCL[SCL-ANF-SCL as a separate whY booking] -xMAD-LHR-TXL-LHR-xHKG-xMEL-PER.
This was the mission plan:
YYC to rent a car for a few days in Glacier National Park in Montana (and the smaller Waterton Lakes Park on the Canadian side). I had the great pleasure of meeting RooFlyer, the doyen of AFF TRs, over good steak and plenty of wine on a balmy evening in Calgary.
It was then over to RIC to rent a car and check out various Civil War and War of Independence historical sites in Virginia, drive the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park (160 km) and the Blue Ridge Parkway from end-to-end (750 km Virginia to North Carolina). Both are listed amongst the ‘World’s great drives’ – and rightly so. Highly recommended.
Then it was a visit with friends at Clemson, a university town in South Carolina, over to Savannah Georgia, then looping back to Richmond via Charleston SC and Williamsburg VA. Then it was over to SFO for the weekend, followed by a sweet little SC-earner across to JFK in F on the new AA A321T. From JFK to SCL on LAN for my first ride in a B787, separate whY booking SCL-ANF-SCL to rent a car and head into the Atacama, back to SCL and over to MAD (LAN B787 again) and on to LHR.
A couple of nights in London, then over to Berlin for a few days where I had the pleasure of meeting Mattg, kermatu and *A Flyer and chowing down with them on sensational traditional pork knuckle and grosse biers. Another great AFF night!
I then rented a car and drove to Dresden before looping back to Berlin via Leipzig (checking out the (in)famous Colditz Castle POW prison on the way - fascinating BTW) and on to home.
OK- turning to the Atacama Desert. A regional map to show the location in N Chile and a map of my route. It borders Argentina, Bolivia and Peru.
The red lines show the main route: Antofagasta-San Pedro de Atacama-xTocopilla to Iquique along the coast-xArica to Putre in the far N-back to Arica for a night and then an 8-hour haul straight down Ruta 5 back to Antofagasta overnight and out to SCL the next day.
The blue lines show schematically the day trips out to parks and sights in the high country.
After a night in Antofagasta, Chile’s second city, I headed inland to San Pedro. Cities on the coast in N Chile sit on a very narrow coastal plain, with what seems like an enormous sand dune backdrop very quickly leading up to the 1500-2000m coastal plateau. Beyond that is the altiplano at around 4500m leading up to the Andean cordillera where Chile borders its neighbours.
Antofagasta is a large city, stretching along the very narrow coastal plain. It’s nothing special and there is a definite mining boom-town feel. Unlike Karratha or Port Hedland, it’s a true big city but, nevertheless has the same mining-town feel, albeit like being on a monster dose of steroi_s. Note the big ‘sand dune’ escarpment in the background – it really dominates the coastal cities of N Chile.
Driving out of Antofagasta and getting on to the famous Ruta 5 (Pan America Highway), the Chileans have not wasted their mining boom. The roads are superb. All the road surfaces are proper tarmac (ie. Hotmix, like our freeways), not the coughpy Australian coarse-chip surface that results in so much tyre roar that even the best car manufacturers struggle to eliminate within their vehicles. It’s dual carriageway to around Calama, a major copper-mining town (sort of like Newman on really serious steroi_s). FIFO does not seem to occur in Chile on the mass scale of Australia, so mining towns have very large new dormitory suburbs spreading everywhere.
I’ve done a lot of driving in Australia, but Chile makes roads like Great Eastern Highway to Kalgoorlie and on to the east, Great Northern Highway to Newman and beyond and NW Coastal Highway to Port Hedland and beyond look (and, particularly, sound) very largely like second-rate efforts. The Chilean main roads, even the non-dual carriageway sections are like driving on Australian intra-city freeway surfaces – but they connect hugely-separated places. It makes for very relaxed driving, even in the rugged manual diesel 4WD dual-cab without cruise-control vehicle I had.
Antofagasta; dual-carriageway section of Ruta 5 on the way to Calama; big mining truck bits; a roadhouse Atacama style - bring your own shady tree...
Mining (predominantly copper) is huge in the region. Like in the Pilbara, there are 4WD dual-cabs with flags, reflective markers, roll bars and beacons buzzing everywhere. The only difference is that the favoured colour there is red, not white. Why, I do not know. I joined the party and had a Hertz red dual cab replete with whopping reflective signs, roll bars and wheel chocks on cables. It was clearly just off a mine site and did get a few stares in some of the more remote tourist regions I visited – along with considerable scepticism from the Carabinieri at a mandatory checkpoint when I, with hopeless Spanish, tried to explain to the non-English speaking officer that I was merely a tourist.
My ‘mining certified office’ for a couple of weeks (but I’m a mere tourist!). I felt like a bit of a dill at times as people seemed to stare at this ‘worker’ cruising around national parks – but that’s what Hertz gave me. Well protected on the inside; the secondary road towards San Pedro; at ANF you can have any colour you like, as long as it’s red...
There’s copper in them thar hills; mine dumps that say something to a chemist about the extraction process; a very dusty view of the huge Chuquicamata mine at Calama – with power lines running right in front of the view-point; the end product - electrochemically refined to copper metal on site (hence power lines everywhere). The train had about an equal number of copper wagons and acid (sulphuric, IIRC) tank wagons.
One thing that I think is worth noting about travelling in Chile and Argentina if you have not been there or are considering some independent travel in the region is the truly amazing bus system. I’ve never used them, as I prefer to be totally independent, but after much observation it just has to be about the best long-distance bus system in the world.
There are many bus companies and countless buses, all extremely modern, high quality and immaculately clean and well-presented. Many of the buses are double-deck with full cama lay-back seating of business-class standard I’ve been told. The single deck buses are semi cama. Here are a few pics to underscore, at least from the outside, what I’m saying.
Cont...