Sri Lanka-The Pearl Of the Indian Ocean

[RB]

There will be plenty of photos in later posts

When researching for a trip I came across this description-"Sri Lanka thrives with natural beauty and the remains of a widespread ancient civilization. This island country offers what no other island can offer-varied landscapes, climates, cultures and wildlife. Sri Lanka is a true paradise for tourists with a whole lot of attractions from sunny beaches, wonderful ancient cities, beautiful fauna and flora, fine handicrafts, world famous gems, colourful festivals, smiling people and mouth watering Sri Lankan cuisine".

Having now returned from our visit, I have to say that the above rings true.
We now have more time to be flexible with our travel plans and try ensure we enjoy the best weather possible when visiting, so we planned for Feb 2012. Plenty of background reading led us to hiring a driver & his van for the early part of our trip through the Cultural Triangle and then on to Haputale, Ella, and the Yala National Park. This meant we could still set our own pace and priorities. Once reaching the South Coast we would continue on our own as an independent holiday.
The wet weather on the Mid-North Coast of NSW in late Jan/early Feb 2012 threatened to bring our best laid plans undone. We had allowed a nights stay in Sydney after a DJ flight from Port Macquarie. After low cloud had settled over Port Macquarie, flights had been severely disrupted and cancellations and substitute bus trips had become common.


PQQ-SYD DJ 1188
Online check-in saw us arrive at the airport with our main bags each weighing approx 12kg. As silver velocity members we had gone for row 3 after our previous/first flight on the ATR in the back rows seemed to catch all of the turbulence. It was a lot of relief when the flight in from Brisbane emerged from the clouds and landed safely at PQQ. Boarding was easy, just 1 UM & no wheelchairs on this flight. The flight time was announced as 60 minutes. The snack was 3 very small but tasty biscuits, a cup of tea & a water. The front seats were very comfortable & quiet & we enjoyed a different flight path, coming in from the west & landed in a sodden Sydney on the east/west runway. Baggage collection was very quick & we were soon in party mode with our mates.


SYD-SIN A380 SQ232
Check-In was very organised with a line designated for people who had checked in online. So despite flying Y we were in a line of 6 with 4 staff looking after this line. We were quickly confirmed in 81A & C-having paid the extra $50 to get the exit row upper deck at the back. There was also a separate boarding line than the rest of economy. These seats were well worth the extra-huge amount of leg room, although the window seat did have a bit of cut in for the exit row door. There was no mention of exit row by staff & no drill! The disadvantage was no window and very limited storage but certainly great seats for economy. Two meals were served during the flight with the first being served from the front & we missed having a choice & were left to have fish-there also seemed to be many passengers receiving special request meals. Inflight entertainment was OK with a lot of movies, tv episodes, games & music. I found the music a little limited for my preferences & there was no touch screen operation. Staff were attentive, certainly not robotic but they were challenged by a very inattentive lady with 2 rug rats-no seat belts on for takeoff, standing during turbulence etc.

[FONT=&amp]We had a 1.5hr transfer window & despite having to change terminals we made it easily & comfortably.

[/FONT] SIN-KL- SQ118 A330
Only a 35 minute flight that left & arrived on time, lightly loaded & a very quick service off tea/coffee/water.
We then had a very long walk, train transfer between terminals & then another long walk to baggage claims. No customs/arrival documentation required & we were soon looking for the bus to transfer us to the LCC side of the airport. At our travel time the bus ran every 30 minutes & trip to the LCC took about 30 minutes. All up it was about 2hrs from landing until we were at the Tune Hotel. The biggest challenge proved to be seeing an ATM to get a bit of Malay currency.

 

[docjames]

If there is a crew station at the exit dorr, there's no need to brief pax.

Looking forward to the rest of the TR and learning more about SL.

 

[RB]

I have posted a review of the Tune Hotel LCCT here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....views/tune-hotel-kuala-lumpur-lcct-37553.html

Air Asia AK 1267 KL to Colombo A320-200
A 6.20am departure meant a very early morning. We had checked in online & had boarding passes. Despite what the signs said, we were instructed to another line for our bag drop-despite the chaotic appearance of the process it worked well. Then it was a boarding pass & passport check prior to emigration & then a security check of carry-on. The gate area seemed organised & then it was another boarding pass/passport check into a smaller waiting room. We were then released to a scramble of a walk outside the terminal (including a pedestrian crossing) towards the plane waiting with steps. For added confusion (must have been too long since my last Asia visit) there were no signs to indicate which plane was Colombo & which was to Chennai.

Another boarding pass check & we were on the plane. We had chosen 14 D & F and we retained a spare middle seat on a fairly heavily loaded flight-we paid about $10Aust each each-way for the hot seats . Today we did get an exit row drill! Very comfortable seats, reasonable leg room & on-time takeoff. A tandoori chicken wrap & can of diet coke did the job for breakfast.
We had a 2.5hr time change on a 3.5hr flight & we landed pretty well on time at 7.15am. Prior to landing there was an announcement & the crew came through the cabin with a very thorough spray. The seatbelt sign was pretty well ignored & the flight emptied quickly. Having booked in 2011 we were able to get an online travel approval & did not have to apply for the visa on arrival. Immigration was swift with no other arrivals lined up & then we duty free shopped-prices were in US$ & each person can get 3 wine & 2 spirits. Suitably stocked we collected bags already on the carousel & walked through non-existent customs. The duty free store actually stocks fridges & associated household goods to cater for cashed up Sri Lankans returning from overseas work!

As promised our driver Lucky (booked 5 months ago but no money paid) was waiting. The easiest way around Sri Lanka is to book a driver with car- we have got recommendations off Trip Advisor Destination Experts & Lucky comes highly recommended. His written English in emails has been perfect, replies have been prompt & he provides an immaculate 6 passenger 2007 Toyota van, fuel, driving & guide facilities for the princely sum of $US60 a day.
There are multiple banks open 24hrs day offering the same good exchange rate of around 118 rp per $ (carried $Aust with us) and we purchased a local sim (Around $25) & $3 odd a week that will be more than enough internet for when our hotel/guestrooms don’t provide. Phone sims are abot $1 Aust & the only call I made was to a mobile & cost about 2c. After a cup of tea at Lucky’s we head north to Anuradhpura ( the old capital city). Today (Sat) is Sri Lanka national day, the next Tues is a public holday so there are many taking a very long weekend & making a pilgrimage- Anuradhpura is also the dedicated spot for this years celebrations. The road, although in excellent condition, carries chaotic traffic & progress is safe but slow.
Our first stop in Anuradhpura is lunch at the Hotel Grand ( loose use of the term) but the omelette is good. We then book in at the Milano & have a much needed afternoon of rest. Review of hotel is here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....ws/milano-tourist-rest-anuradhpura-37566.html


Anuradhpura


This is Sri Lanka’s ancient capital city with a history extending 5 centuries BC. There are many Buddhist sites & the tallest brick built stupas of the ancient world are found here. Lucky is a registered guide as well as a driver so we have expert commentary at hand & we are made aware of any scams. We get an interesting take on religious proceedings, great historical background and excellent company. We witness a monkey fight of great aggression & learn that the bodhi tree has been cloned to ensure the future profitability of the main tourist attractions. The commercial aspect of life is alive with the shoe minding now put out to tender! Apparently the long weekend is a collection of pilgrims, market sellers, prostitutes, gypsy fortune tellers, pickpockets & generally opportunists from everywhere-BUT this is a genuine celebration of Sri Lankan’s enjoying a big time.
Our 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] morning is a further tour of main sites that highlight the vast history, ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Sri Lankans. After a middle day break we visit a cave area (Vessagiriya) where we meet a local meditating & then to another bund that was attracting a variety of birdlife. Other than eating dinner at the hotel we do nothing at night & we are tucked in early. We encounter an out of season night time storm that was to impact on the next day’s elephant safari.

 

[RB]

Anuradhpura to Habarana

We set out at 8am for a leisurely drive to Habarana where we are booked into the Le Grande Meaulnes Family Bungalow. Our first stop is to visit another temple Mihintale where we enjoy great district views & more buddhas & another stupa. On the way we also enjoy a snack of curd & treacle served cold in a clay pot. Again there
is plenty of action to watch on the road. After an easy check in we then venture downtown for a simple meal of noodles prior to our elephant safari.

 

[RB]

Link to review of our accommodation in Habarana is here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....e-grande-meaulnes-family-bungalows-37576.html
Link to review of our hotel in Kandy is here http://www.australianfrequentflyer....nces-and-reviews/nature-walk-kandy-37580.html

Around Habarana
Elephant Safari- organised through Lucky, we board a jeep & venture out where we encounter another dozen or so jeeps. The previous nights storms had made some areas inaccessible & apparently altered the behaviour of the elephant herds. We still encounter 4 sightings on the way out & then another half dozen or so on the way back. The way back encounters were close up & we spend time sitting 15 metres or so from madly foraging herds-this was a real bonus to us
Sigiriya Rock- Lion Rock fortress from the 5[SUP]th[/SUP] century was an obvious visit. We see spotted deer & a monitor on the way & visit the modern museum before tackling the climb of around 1200 steps. We enjoy the frescoes, the mirror wall, various gardens, pool & throne. Our regular walking must help as we hit the peak feeling pretty chuffed with ourselves. The weather is a bit cloudy so the outlook is not quiet so spectacular but still worthy of many photos.

Our afternoon is at Polonnaruwa, the eastern corner of the cultural triangle. Despite heavy storms setting in we enjoy seeing Buddhist & Hindu art & architecture. The museum provides a great background of what we later see in the field. The trip home is highlighted by seeing a massive bull elephant journeying through slushy vegetation very close to the road. The rain continues during the night but causes no problem to our schedule. Photos on this post are from safari & Sigiriya Rock

 

[RB]

[FONT=&amp]More Photos from [/FONT][FONT=&amp]Sigiriya Rock and [/FONT][FONT=&amp] Polonnaruwa and the roaming bull elephant [/FONT]

When we got to Kandy and the Temple of The Tooth, the original complete structure of the buildings of Polonnaruwa (now ruins) became more obvious-

 

[RB]

Habarana to Kandy via Dambulla
An 8.30am start sees us back on a very busy road, good surface but narrow and thus slow. We call at Dambulla to visit the caves-again a great spectacle after plenty of stairs. It seems that Dambulla is less visited than some of the other spots but we found the contents of the caves to be fantastic. The peak is about 160 metres above the surrounds. From there it is steady progress to one of the many spice gardens. Despite our scepticism we enjoyed the educational tour & a quick back, arm & face massage. After arriving at Kandy we enjoyed a simple lunch of noodles & chop suey while overlooking the lake at Avanahala restaurant.
Photos are of Dambulla caves-darkness was a bit of a problem & photos haven't been "touched up" yet

 

[RB]

Around Kandy
After plenty of reading in preparation for our trip we opt out of the Culture Show but Lucky prompts us to go to the Temple of the Tooth while others are getting ready for their culture fix. Our tactics work & after a walk around the extensive site we are behind only VIP’s & half a dozen locals for our quick glimpse of the caskets.The relicof the tooth is kept in a two-story inner shrine fronted by two large elephant tusks. The relic rests on a solid gold lotus flower, encased in jewelled caskets that sit on a throne.

Our full day in Kandy we spend the morning at the Botanical Gardens. The site is bounded on 3 sides by the local river & is home to a huge variety of specimens, the orchid display is amazing, even had one that smelt like chocolate. Despite the bats this is a great spot even if reviews on Trip Advisor seem to concentrate on the $9 odd entry fee & the fact that natives pay far less!

Lucky has advised that Kandy is the spot to shop for genuine, well priced souvenirs so we do a quick stop & there is no evidence of any kickbacks happening!
Downtown we get a repair done on my trousers that have split- man on an old singer treadle machine does the job straight away & is stoked to get 80c for the job.
We enjoy lunch at a bakery where a mixed plate is supplied & you pay for what you eat. With a ginger beer & soda water our bill tops out under $4 Aust.
We use the chance to have a beer in an old English Pub-bottled beer only but good to see the old bar, ceiling & furnishings.


Kandy To Haputale
This was to be our longest day in the vehicle. We are not out to break records but the rise up to Sri Lanka’s highest point and the extensive windy sections make for very slow progress. The road surface is generally good and there is plenty to see with vast tea plantations and incredibly well organised vegetable gardens. The drive is broken up by a call at Ramboda Falls-viewed from the comfort of a hotel balcony with a nice cold beer. We have lunch at Nuwara Eliya at the Grand Hotel- old English establishment-the toilets are themselves an adventure with towels under each cubicle in the men’s room. We also have a look at the extensive vegetable markets and then some clothing markets- Nuwara Eliya is home to factories that produce for North Face, Colombia etc and there are outlet markets keen to sell what are apparently genuine bargains.

Building in Kandy that is based on same construction style as those in Polonnaruwa
Preparing for the Temple Of the Tooth offerings
Orchid display
Trip to the veggie markets
Running repairs

 

[kpc]

Thanks for the very nice TR. I hope to visit SL some day. I have SL friends who say it is a beautiful and cheap place to visit.

 

[RB]

Around Haputale
There are basically 2 streets that wrap around the hillside. Although very compact there are heaps of shops/services here. Bakery, hardware, food store, engineering works, barber, print shop etc. This is a lazy spot set around veggie plots & tea plantations. We go for an undulating 2hr stroll with Lucky our driver in tow. At around 1400 odd metres above sea level the sunny day is fantastic for walking & we strike several groups of local children who want to pose for photos & practice some English. We make it back for a trip to the bakery for a cold drink. The arvo is spent having a nap & sitting on the balcony using the included wifi- need to be outside to get the signal.
The local mosque does wake us at around 5.30am & sets the local dogs into a very funny howling chorus but we find it easy to drift back to sleep. The town is well served by train & bus & the guesthouses/hotels seem pretty busy
Lucky explained to us that it is normal for the Sri Lankans to live in their house & add an additional storey as they save money. They use a "scarecrow/devil" on the incomplete building to keep away the bad spirits


Haputale to Ella
We were to catch the train on this section but the train for the 45 minute haul is delayed for over an hour so we take the road with Lucky instead. This is a relatively short haul through nice countryside. Drivers have been shocked overnight that diesel prices will immediately increase by over 30%-rising world oil prices given as the reason-the increase brings reactions with privately owned buses going on strike & fishemen in Negombo (reported by Lucky’s wife) are blocking roads & burning tyres.

We see our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] road rage when our driver has a go at a pedestrian dawdling on a crossing- normal is to wait as a group then cross quickly when there is a bit of a break. We also have a minor swipe with a tut tut & our rear vision mirror is hit- pops back ok. The road surface is ok but heavy vehicles & winding spots mean slow progress. The road up to our guesthouse is very steep & narrow.

Beaut scenery around Haputale
Great walk through the tea lantation


Great variety of vegetables available
"Scarecrow" looking after the spirits
Freshly picked tea

 

[RB]

Hotel reviews for Haputale, Ella & Tissa are here
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....-and-reviews/sri-lak-view-haputale-37642.html
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....-and-reviews/mountain-heavens-ella-37659.html
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....iews/lake-wind-hotel-tissamaharama-37662.html

Around Ella
A very compact but progressive touristy main area exists - it is less than 10 minutes walk along the rail line to the shops & restaurants/bars from our hotel. We have lunch at the highest rated café but my chicken dish is way overcooked although Mrs RB is impressed with her curry other than the chicken. We strike canned beer for the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] time-500ml size.
We have an afternoon walk to the top of a waterfall with Lucky another driver who is a fiend of his and his clients – a really nice Danish couple (along railway tracks and past local farms) before dinner at the guesthouse. Next morning is a long walk in the other direction - 9.4km according to the pedometer on our driver’s iphone, average 4.8km/hr-good considering most is on railway sleepers that are set at irregular intervals and lots of photo stops we made good time! We see a 9 arch bridge from the time of the British & rail tunnels where swallow nests have been raided for the saliva to be sent to China & Malaysia.

A slow train goes past while we are walking & we seek refuge on the side of the track (can hear the train coming up around the mountain bends for about 10 minutes before it arrives - pretty easy and all the local passengers waving at us. We actually see quite a few railway staff in action, fettlers checking spikes with long spanners, another marking sleepers for replacement and another with an oil can & wick oiling the rails.
An afternoon train trip to Bandulla is planned & we will return with our driver instead of the public bus - the strike catches out our plans. The 45 minute trip costs about 16c Aust for 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] class on hard wooden seats from many years ago. Our Sri Lankan fellow travellers seem to be really exited about their trip. We cover where we had walked this morning & then on into further valleys - rice & veggie growing is dominant. There are heaps of well-shaped “Illawarra” flame trees in flower. The road trip back is very slow with 6km of road works - some being done by large machinery alongside people on picks & shovels.
We have a very late lunch [FONT=&amp]at Nescoffee - Hawaiian pizza[/FONT] (cooked in a brand new oven) which is very thin crust but to be honest pretty average – good try though.
Back for a cold beer – alas the beer delivery had just arrived so Lucky helped explained it would be better off in the freezer for a while!


Ella To Tissa
About 3 hrs by road in south-easterly direction. We chance across another Aussie couple that we met in Habarana while they were waiting for the bus & give them a lift to a larger town down the road about an hour - they will then have more chance of a seat on a bus. At Rawana Ella Falls we are met by sellers offering pieces of quartz! The journey flattens right out & the straight road is sparsely travelled - 1[SUP]st[/SUP] time there has been very little to watch. We reach Tissa & are very impressed by the lake side flat scenery.

Our 3rd class train ride
Part of our walk along the railway
9 Arch bridge
Recent cremation site beside the highway

 

[amaroo]

What an exciting TR & fascinating country - thanks for posting.

 

[Heleigh]

Enjoyed reading TR the country side is beautiful.

 

[RB]

Thanks for the encouraging posts-Sri Lanka was a fantastic country & the people were very friendly & helpful-they also seem to appreciate an Aussie sense of humour

Now to the highlight of the trip
Yala Safari
A 2pm date sees us picked up in an old Landrover (converted to diesel). It is a 45 minute drive to the park & on the way we give a lift to a park employee who ends up being our excellent tracker/spotter for the day. There are probably 50 odd jeeps out on the day (apparently relatively quiet & the shower/storm that has occurred does not stuff things up). Our jeep driver is well known to Lucky & determined to use his experience & aggression to get us great wildlife viewing. We see a massive amount of animals (no leopard but a sloth) and birds and they appear not distracted by all the jeep activity. Our closest encounter with a leopard is when the driver sees a monkey wiped out by the leopard - we hear much drama by a surviving monkey as we stay to look for the victorious leopard. We pass a spot where the tsunami actually caught out & swept away unsuspecting safari goers. After a fantastic 3hrs odd on safari we leave the park & join what is an apparent jeep derby back to Tissa - undaunted by giving been the second last jeep to leave the park, wet dirt road with massive potholes, dark conditions with cows etc and motorbikes & pushbikes and a new storm we fight our way through the pack –probably passed 30 odd jeeps (left & right side) & not overtaken once for very quick trip back to the hotel (our driver removes his cap as we pass each temple). This safari ranks up there as the greatest thing we have ever done-there is something around every corner. The landscape was similar to some I have seen on tv for African safaris. Our total costs for the safari including relatively generous tips worked out to be about $45 Aust each with only the 2 of us & our regular driver in the jeep with the jeep driver & an animal spotter.
Display at the entrance
Jeep of the day
One of many we saw
There is no dignity in death
Just hanging around

 

[RB]

I thought the safari deserved plenty of photos
Peacock about to get bunted by buffalo
100's of spotted deer were seen
Very protective group of female elephants
Massive numbers of water buffalo
Word soon spread when the sloth was sighted (photos of the sloth not very clear so not posted)

 

[RB]

Although we didn't see a leopard I think these photos taken by our driver on previous safaris are great & may encourage others from AFF to go to Yala National Park for a safari

 

[drron]

Loving the TR.Looks like Sri lanka has to go on my wildlife viewing list.Though might need a bit more luxury and SPG hotels!

 

[RB]

Loving the TR.Looks like Sri lanka has to go on my wildlife viewing list.Though might need a bit more luxury and SPG hotels!

Guess we could have stayed a bit more upmarket but those places seemed to be booked by Europeans with school kids on holidays, on full board packages and buffets being the go for all 3 meals-not our idea of fun. As it was we got to speak with other travellers most nights while we had a cleansing ale & decided what we were going to eat. Once we finished the initial 12 nights we just walked to whichever place appealed.

Links for our hotels/gueshouses/bungalows for our first beach stays are here:
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....atini-bungalows-tangalle-sri-lanka-37682.html
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....ecret-guesthouse-marissa-sri-lanka-37683.html

Around Tissa
We drive to Kataragama where we view a very holy town - no alcohol or meat (although our driver indicates that Sri Lankan monks can eat chicken & fish & we have seen some with a mobile phone!). This is an extensive area of worship with 3 Hindu gods being worshipped, there was a mosque, a Hindu & Buddhist temple all peacefully co-existing. The followers go to great trouble with their offerings & we some for sale for approx $50 Aust at the local fruit stall. There is a chained elephant (well rewarded with whole pineapples, fruit etc) that is led in to bow at each Hindu temple-very few followers at 2 of the temples today!
We see a crocodile lurking in one of the tanks (man made lakes) on the way home-A man had been collecting lotus flowers from a tyre tube on our way there!
Lunch is at Refresh where there are many tourists on the way to their safari- food is probably 30% dearer (not much money) than we have been paying but it is good & a nice variety is on offer- this is the 1[SUP]st[/SUP] place where I have ever seen a longer line at the mens loo than what existed at the ladies
After an afternoon rest we venture with Lucky to a tank on the other side of Tissa - a great spot for a leisurely walk interrupted by many bird sightings & photos. Other tourists tell us of a large crocodile on the lake wall but it is gone by the time we return- Lucky does advise that he believes that crocs don’t attack people unless they are in the water!
We have another early night, the tv goes unused and we prepare to finish our time with Lucky

Tissa To Tangalle
A 8am start as Lucky is apparently going to go all the way home to Negombo. The trip is just over an hour, with the traffic being light and the road a good surface & relatively straight through low elevation land. We pass Hambitota -it vied for the rights to the Commonwealth Games of 2018. Apparently this is the local area of the current president of Sri Lanka Mahinda Rajapaksa . From what Lucky tells us, there has been a new cricket stadium constructed nearby and a new entertainment stadium is being constructed but there is apparently no accommodation available for any influx that may occur at either venue! Similarly a new harbour has been made but a major rock outcrop was preventing ship visitors and despite this being fixed, still the ships don’t come!-I don't think Lucky is a fan of politics

We see a few wind turbines that had not been in evidence anywhere else. The new international airport is also planned for this area and an expressway from Colombo.

Coconut gatherer
Bird viewing paradise
More of walk near Tissa
Rice crop near Tissa

 

[RB]

Around Tangalle
Tangalle is a busy little settlement. There is a wide variety of shops & we come across 2 supermarkets, variety of pharmacies, fish sellers, clothing & footwear etc. I use an internet café for a skype call to ensure a fast connection-30 rupees for the use of the computer plus a bit off my skype credit. We also locate a bottle shop that invites us past the jail like exterior, right inside to ensure we can check out the wines they have-around $13 Aust a bottle.
We check prices for a tuk tuk back to the bungalow & reject an offer of 300 rupees (had earlier advice from the bungalow owner of an approx fair price). We accept an offer of 120 rupees from a man who introduces himself as Blacky - he has a well maintained back seat, tells us he is careful because his family relies on him & tells us he knows everything about Tangalle - he also tells us he has worked in Cameroon. In our very brief meeting & ride we are offered quotes for future local trips & given a mobile phone number to ring for our ongoing needs!
For lunch we walk along the beach away from the town & eventually settle on Ganesh Gardens-great food (seafood spaghetti & calamari & chips) We slog back along the sand & check out Ibis the next door location to look at the menu for our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] night- we have a beer & are told to pay when we come back later as they have no change!
There is a long build up of a storm and after about 5hrs a big tropical downpour and thunderstorm occurs - next day the result is flow into the ocean from further inland that dirties some of the surf further around towards town.
The 2nd day is breakfast at the Ibis - one of the best breakfasts & definitely the best toast. We then ring Blacky (less than 2c to ring his mobile) and his tuk tuk to go on his 5 hr local excursion to see 5 things - the water monitors, bat colony, cave temple at Mulkirigala , Sri Lankas biggest Buddah at Wewurukannala Temple Rock and Hummanaya Blowhole The ride was safe & commentary was pretty good. The water monitors were being fed by a fisherman & a tip was expected for the photo opportunity. The cave temple was fantastic, we heard commentary by a man with extraordinary ear hair and the view was great despite the misty morning. The bats were bats and the blowhole was out of action because of the tides. The biggest Buddah is still under construction but the site had some fantastic temples and there was an interesting but dilapidated museum. While here we also went through the “chamber of horrors” (or as Blacky described it – the hole behind the stupor) a long tunnel stupor where drawings on the upper area depict misbehaviour & the bottom depicts punishments- needless to say the punishments are rather violent! When we had nearly finished a group of Sri Lankan parents and kindergarten children arrived!! Blacky overcame the blowhole failure with a unplanned trip to the Kudawella Boat Harbour- we wandered around the fishing trawlers that were bringing their haul in & saw the impressive number of ships operating from there-apparently these boat owners are considered wealthy & live in big houses high up over the coast! We covered quite a few klms & also passed coconut plantations that are according to Blacky very lucrative. We saw a town that is apparently famous because it is the only one in Sri Lanka that has no Muslims. Blacky was pulled over (along with another tuk tuk) by the police and given a warning about speeding (40km/hr limit in that spot for him)
After lunch at Malika (small house with a cabin to rent) we then spent some time snoozing & reading on the beach outside our bungalows-a good relaxing day. Dinner at the Ibis sees us wait 50 minutes after ordering & then the mains arrive as we were eating the soup (coconut & prawns)! Food does seem to be very slow arriving but it is also started from scratch every time, maybe we were spoilt by our half-board stays earlier where we nominated a time to eat & the food always arrived promptly.
We wander east along the beach to near Mangrove Villas where rocks form a natural pool from the sea-the tide is incoming so we enjoy a wallow in the clean, warm but fresh waters. Despite it still being prime time the beach is pretty quiet- a herd of cattle walk along the high side at one stage ( only saw 1 dog cough on the beach during our entire visit). We have a beer at Pumpkin Cabanas on our walk back- have never seen us before but we have to pay later as he has no change! Overall this is a good relaxing stay, not a beach seller to be seen and great weather other than the storm.
Monitor
Cave temple
Cave temple
House of Horrors
Fresh tuna

 

[RB]

Tangalle To Mirissa
After a call at an ATM & the bottle shop for wine we set out in an air conditioned van organised through Patini Bungalows. The 49km journey was through thick traffic (the president was also due for a visit so soldiers on every corner) with many vans full of locals enjoying a Sunday out. Our driver was extremely cautious but very safe & after a fuel stop we arrived about 1 1/4hrs after setting out. Again the road surface was excellent, it is the sharing with many speeding old buses, motorbikes, road cyclists, trucks, pedestrians & the odd bit of converted agricultural machinery that makes for compulsory watching. There is very little conversation as our driver seems to have very limited English for a young guy but he gets us there in 1 piece.

Around Marissa
We venture by foot along a narrow access road & then the highway to reach the beach in just over 5 minutes. There is more activity here than Tangalle. There are side by side cafes spread along the beach which is basically a big bay area. Walking is easy with very flat sand, there are quite a few people in and around the water but it is certainly not crowded. We walk the length of the beach and note a huge % of very sunburnt people. Lunch is a reasonable version of a chicken burger with mayo very thick on the bun. Beers are colder and also cheaper at 200rp for a 625ml bottle.
The town itself along the highway is basically a few shops on either side of the road-clothes, fruit, vegies, hardware, a couple of restaurants and one extreme store that has the range of an Aussie 1960’s general store- no booze shop in town & no ATM but we were prepared for that.
We walk back to the beach just on dark to join the throngs eating at the restaurants-food is good, only 20 minute wait but the busy waiters don’t seem to have a system to work to. It is a very peaceful, quiet time. We walk along the beach then back to the bungalow by torchlight without worries - not lit but just family houses with people getting on with their lives. 2[SUP]nd[/SUP] day after breakfast we walk to the western end of the beach. We have a beach/bayside walk towards the harbour & then back to the main beach area. The rising tide has formed a protected, clean inlet (the rest of the beach is perfectly safe also). After that it is toasted sandwiches on the beach & back to the bungalow for a spell out of the fine sunny day. A lot less people around today. A walk on the beach and then fish dinner (butter fish) at the guesthouse is well done. We greet the next morning with a few laps walk of the beach before breakfast-only about 20 people here max. We buy garment washing soap & matches at the local store & also reload the wireless broadband-400rp for max 7 days, up to 2gb & max 24 hrs use in the week-a good deal for our use.
Another swim, walk, lunch on the beach & we encounter a couple from Copenhagen- had come across them randomly 3 times previously. A lazy afternoon as we await our massage bookings. Massage (full body 1 hr approx $16 Aust after discount from guesthouse) is relaxing if not spectacular (not sure about the knee in the back while both arms are extended behind the back!). Avudeyec massage seems to result in very oily experience & I am advised to wait 1hr before a hot shower to get rid of the oil.
Our biggest regret at Mirissa was not going whale watching-Blue whales are apparently fantastic here but there are a few less than honest operators.

Mirissa To Hikkaduwa
Transfer organised through the Marissa guesthouse-our 1[SUP]st[/SUP] ride in a sedan & 1[SUP]st[/SUP] in a manual since we arrived in Sri Lanka-very good positive driver (ex police dept) who got us there in around 1hr 10 min for 3,500rp. Again the road is in great condition but a lot of traffic in parts. The highway hugs the coast in most parts & we pass more spots that were devastated by the tsunami. Plenty of surfing spots & fishing trawlers doted around. Our driver stops enroute to fill a 1 litre plastic bottle of petrol-his fuel guage doesn’t work & it is his standby tank apparently! Galle traffic certainly heavier & we pass near the fort & cricket ground-will visit one day while here.
Hikkaduwa is right on the highway & guesthouses/hotels are crammed side by side between the highway & beach.

Mirissa-nice bay beach
Mirissa beach-certainly not overcrowded
Mirissa beach morning walk, even less crowded
bay around from main beach