Seoul to Seoul (Re-mastered)

Noel Mugavin

Established Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Posts
1,119
Off to have another crack at the South Korea cross-country bike path, which I failed at last June/July. Giving myself a bit more leeway time wise, and being a bit more familiar with the traps involved with following the right bike path, I'm backing myself in.
Planning to add in the 70km spur of the Nakdonggang Path that leads to Andong, which isn't required to complete the Cross-Country Path, but is if you want to achieve the 4 Rivers and Grand Slam of the South Korea bike network. If all goes right, will also be able to ride the Bukhangang Path, a 77km trek just out of Seoul that ends in Chuncheon. Will then finish with a couple of days back in Seoul.
Leave Good Friday on the Qantas Red Eye Perth-Sydney, then Sydney - Seoul. Return Friday the 12th, Cathay to Hong Kong, Qantas Hong Kong - Melbourne - Perth. Thankfully all up the front of the bus.
Added bonus is I think I'll be riding amongst the cherry blossoms.
 
Left Perth an hour late but made up time to be in Sydney only half an hour behind scheduled time. Soon as the seatbelt sign went off, I was out to it, and woke up about 5 minutes before start of descent was announced.
Scheduled to depart Sydney at 11.40, delayed 2 hours due to plane arriving late from previous flight. Eventually boarded 2.20 ish, unable to take off as engineers were fixing a small issue. Now at 3.39, back in the lounge, waiting for a replacement plane to be towed over. Told aim is to take off at 4.30.
 
Arrived just after 2 in the morning, all pretty smooth to get out of the airport and a nearby hotel. About to head back to the airport then train to Seoul and pick up my bike.
 
After a delayed flight and a late arrival, I was able to get about 5 hours sleep in at a Best Western close to the airport.
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Took the hotel shuttle bus back to the airport and my first bibimbap of the trip.
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Then to the airport rail, not the express as I had to get off in the Mapo area to pick up my bike.
15 minute walk to the bike shop, then a 10 minute wait for the owner to arrive to open up and get me my bike, and me to pay the balance of my bill.
Friendly young bloke, very patient while I set everything up and I was soon on my way.
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I only had a 20km or so ride to my hotel in the Jamsil district. This was one of the toughest 20k’s of the whole trip, it being Sunday afternoon and the path going through a continuous river park. It was a real life game of frogger, anything from toddlers learning how to ride, to Olympic hopefuls pumping at over 35kmh. Add in loose soccer balls kicked on to the path, absent minded wanderers, it certainly kept my senses alert.
After about an hour and a half of cautious riding eventually made it to the Delight Hotel Jamsil, Asked for somewhere to store my bike, told in front of the building would be fine.
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I had brought some cheap little Koala clasps to give to whoever, as last visit so many Koreans went out of their way to help me, and thought something little might be Nic ex as a thank you. Had given one to the bike shop owner, and received a message from him about how much he liked it and how appreciative he was. Also said he posted a photo of it on instagram. Sent me a picture of where he put it in his workshop.
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Guess I was on a winner
 
I was staying a 5 minute walk from Lotte Tower, and being a sucker for an elevated view of a city, away I went.
First a quick stroll along Seokchon Lake, and a first sighting of cherry blossoms.
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I didn’t last very long amongst the crowds and ducked off a side path into Lotte Tower, where I quickly found the entrance to the tower viewing deck.
Entry roughly 30 000 won, or 40 dollars, and there was no wait to get in the lift and to the viewing deck.
To the viewing deck where you’re corralled into a video viewing area. Not what I wanted, however in a spectacular surprise, the screen lifts after about 15 seconds and leaves you with this view.
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There’s about 3 different floors you can visit, I lasted about 20 minutes before heading down and having a chicken salad for dinner.
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Olympic Park was a short stroll from Lotte Tower and my hotel, so a wander it was.
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Back to the hotel then on to Seokchon Lake again. Crowds were gone, but was absolutely freezing, so back to the hotel and off to bed
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Crisp morning when I set off just after 7, and around 80km front of me.
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Beautiful riding conditions, no wind, and 100 certainty where I was going due to my navigation mishaps the previous year.
Soon enough made it to Hanam City.

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Path turns to the South East, and the views start appearing.
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Hanam Union Tower, complete with observation deck. Smart way to conceal a garbage incinerating complex.
Crossed the Han over Paldang Bridge, and hoping to catch up with the stall owner who was so kind to me the year before. I knew I was pushing it, as it was before 10, and South Korea doesn’t really get going until late morning,
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Waited around til just after 10, but no luck. New bridge/freeway being constructed, and the stall may not be there much longer.
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Gun fortifications along the river
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More views and was tracking along at a decent pace.
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Crossing the old Bukhangang Railway Bridge.
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Just past the bridge is a little rest area where I took the chance to de-robe a bit and get rid of the beanie, full gloves and the thermal shirt. Bridge crossed where the Bukhan enters the Han, and also the start of a 70km trail to Chunchon, which I planned to ride in a week’s time when I returned to Seoul.
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Off again and a good run, apart from a sort stop at one of the many pavilions Accor’s the trail and when I had to navigate a bit of maintenance work in the track.
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Into the Yangpyeong Certification Centre, much easier to find 2nd time round.
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Bit crowded along the river path out of YAngpyeong, so slow going for a while. Opened up and some nice views again.
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First time off the bike, pushing uphill, fortunately a little restaurant halfway up where I grabbed some much needed water.
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Nice and flat for the next 15km until Ipobo Weir
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There’s a convenience store on the weir bridge so was able to stop and get a gimbap for lunch. Rested up for about 20 minutes before taking on the last 16km of the day.
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It was a flat ride for the last 16, albeit with a bit of a headwind. Able to get a bit of pace up and was at my destination, Sun Valley Hotel in Yeoju with about 45 minutes.
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Issue of where to store the bike was solved on arrival, as a dedicated covered bike area was set up in the car park.
86km done today, and due to knowing where I was going had arrived at around 3 o’clock, leaving me plenty of time to have a much needed soak in the huge bath, then had out for w wander.
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Walked back along the bike track to Yeongwol Park, which sits on the southern edge of Yeoju.
Has a few memorials dedicated to the Korean War, as well as a hilltop pavillion that gives nice views of the river and town.
Added bonus was the massage wheel that was amongst an assortment of exercise equipment. Well needed and appreciated by my back after a long ride.



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I was pretty knackered by this time and couldn’t be bothered walking into town to get anything to eat, so settled for bits and pieces from a convenience store on the way back to the hotel.
Lazed around, thinking I’ve got to get up and catch the sunset. Unfortunately left it to late to move outside and the sun had just dropped behind the hills.
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Crisp 5 degrees as I headed out early for a 100km plus day to Suanbo.
Missed out on the sunset yesterday evening, got the sunrise this morning.
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Back of the Sun Valley hotel is a water park, not quite in season for it yet.
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Easy 20 minute or so ride until the next certification centre and bridge crossing - Gangcheonbo.
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Salmon ladder, not in use atm
 
Straight run then a diversion through Gangcheonseom Island to get around a bit of a hill
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Back on to the mainland and some farmer hay art
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Apart from a bit of an uphill, where I got off and pushed, a flat, scenic 20k’s or so to the next checkpoint, and coffee break, Binaeseom Island.
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Stopped and relaxed for 20 minutes or so
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Just out of Binaeseom is a bit of an incline, walked it last year, this year stayed on the bike and roughed it out. Then through some farmland that was one of my favourite parts of the ride last year. Not so this time of year with nothing yet growing.
Had about 30km to ride to Chungju Dam, 1 river crossing over an unnamed weir, then the first real sighting of cherry blossoms.
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66km’s in made it to Chungju Dam, and the checkpoint I searched for 2and a half hours and no luck last year, was sighted within seconds this time around. Research helped, as did the booth not being engulfed by overhanging vegetation at this time of year.
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Bit of backtracking through Chungju, then to Tangeumdae Park, which ends the Han River Path and starts the Sajae Pass Path.
76km’s down, 30 to go to Suanbo.
It was a fairly decent riding day, however mental fatigue got to me a bit the last 15km, however able to stop and re-energise a bit at Sujapalbong Suspension Bridge.
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Meandered into Suanbo and the Suanbo Hot Springs healing hotel. Took a while to check in, didn’t realise there was an automatic checkin machine. Stumbled around until I found a person, who then directed me to use the automatic check in. Did tell me I could leave my bike in the hotel foyer though.
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Hot spring water is pumped through the hotel, just took ages for the water to heat up. Able to have a soak though.
Time for something to eat, and a big no to the restaurant across the road
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There is an Olive Chicken attached to the hotel, so a way too big serving of chicken was the way to go. Fortunately you get a large cylindrical bowl to put your bones in. I wanted to be polite and not leave any food, so there was a hell of a lot of neat left on the discarded bones.
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Off to explore the town
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