A Boyhood Dream Fulfilled: Space-Geek Tour of the USA

[Human]

Before I head off, just a quick reflection on my 36-hour odyssey to get here the long way around:

• It was definitely tougher than I expected it to be. I thought I knew what to expect -- a few years ago my wife and I did a 42-hour marathon to Iceland SYD-SIN-CDG-CPH-KEF, and the European legs were in Economy. That was quite bearable. But the layovers were longer (3 hours in SIN, 4 hours in CDG, 7 hours in CPH) and I think that made a difference. Also I slept a lot better on the long (SIN-CDG) leg.
• The Singapore Airlines service really is outstanding -- friendly, proactive, efficient. I think that the Singapore cabin crew "get" Aussies, with just the right amount of friendly chat to go with their amazing service. For 36 hours, with different crews, I did not have one single less-than-excellent service experience.
• If you fly long haul with Singapore Airlines, pull out all the stops to get a bulkhead seat (which for me meant calling exactly 96 hours before each of the flights). It made a huge difference to how comfortable I was.
• Would I do it again? Of course I would! I flew from my preferred departure city, to my preferred destination city, in Singapore Airlines Business class for A$141 plus points! And if I had slept better, earlier, it would have been absolutely fine.

 

[Human]

Today was amazing. If you’re half as much of a space geek as I am, you gotta get yourself over here.

Space Center Houston is the museum and public access point to Johnson Space Center, which is an active government space-related campus. SCH has a sort of “hub and spoke” design, with a huge central atrium with various displays, with various other attractions reachable around the hall.


I arrived at 9:30am, about 30 minutes before opening time. There was a already a queue at security, but it grew to about ten times that length by the time opening time came around. Having said that, security was efficient and quick, and I was walking in only a minute or two after 10am.


SCH is the conduit for Johnson Space Center. I had pre-booked a 10:40am Mission Control tour, and the first thing I did was book a free Astronaut Training Center tour, which was available on a first-come, first served basis. I then spent 25 minutes or so exploring some of the displays in the central atrium, including a mock-up of NASA’s latest Orion spacecraft, which will transport astronauts to the Moon and, eventually, Mars.









10:40am came around and I scanned my ticket for the “Tram Tour” to Mission Control. To be honest this tour was what I was most looking forward to about my visit to Houston. I was not disappointed.

The “tram” took us into JSC as Sam, the very young but excellent tour guide, explained what various buildings were and what took place in them. We then disembarked at the building that is now called the Christopher C Kraft, Jr. Mission Control Center, in honour of the first NASA Flight Director.

 

[Human]

There are other active Mission Control rooms at JSC (in fact, in the same building) that oversee current space missions. But we were taken to the original Mission Control room which oversaw missions in the 60s and 70s, including the Apollo missions. In 2019, the room was decommissioned and restored to its 1960s glory. So today it looks exactly like it looked in 1969. We were led into the public viewing area, which likewise is the same now as it was in 1969.





I was almost overwhelmed by being there. I could not stop thinking of the major historical events that had happened in that room – the monitoring and guidance of the Moon landing itself, “Houston, we have a problem” and Apollo 13 … the list is endless. I sat down, stood up again, took some photos, took more photos, and allowed myself to be overawed by where I was. It was an incredible feeling – the only other time in my life where I’ve been so overcome by the sense of history and just thinking about the things that room has seen and heard, was when I stood in Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.





We were then shown an excellent multimedia presentation, narrated by Gene Kranz. The screens in Mission Control all lit up and we were shown an exact replica of what was on the screens during various parts of the Apollo 11 mission – the moon landing, the walk on the surface of the Moon, the re-entry and so on. Along with the pictures and footage were actual recordings of the conversations in Mission Control and from and with the astronauts. It was really well done – one of the best I’ve seen anywhere (and in case you haven’t worked it out, I’m a museum junkie!).









After the presentation ended we were told that we were allowed another 5 minutes in the room to take more photos. I lingered, though. I really didn’t want to leave. Frankly I’d have flown around the world just for that moment.




But there was so much more to come.

 

[Human]

We returned to SCH and I had time to grab a quick lunch (yes, they have salads in Texas!) before my next JSC tram tour – to the Astronaut Training Facility. On the way we passed some huge liquid nitrogen tanks, which we were told were used as a coolant to simulate the extreme cold of space, and an old Gemini capsule which incongruously was just sitting outside what appeared to be a huge hangar.



We were not given quite as much time at the Astronaut Training Facility as we’d been given at Mission Control. It was a huge room, probably longer than a football field. The right hand side consisted almost entirely of mock-ups and replicas of the International Space Station modules and various spacecraft, so that astronauts could train for spending time in those places before the real thing.








On the left hand side of the building were various simulators, vehicles, more spacecraft and other big boys’ toys (as the tour guide described it!).




After that, it was back in the tram and back to SCH.

As I walked into the Space Center, I noticed an Astronaut walking in the opposite direction. His name, I found out, was Colonel William McArthur, he had flown four missions in space (including six months on the ISS) and he was about to give a presentation. “Why not head in?”, I thought. So I did.


I found a seat in the front row (very easy to do if you’re solo), only to find Col. McArthur approaching. He said hello to various people at random, and stopped at me. He was quite animated when I told him that I’m from Australia and he said that he was amazed at how many Aussies come to SCH.

His presentation was quite entertaining, and informative, and he did a great job of being interesting to the adults but accessible to the children. He then took lots of questions from the large audience. The whole thing took an hour.

 

[VPS]

Sounds like you're having a dream trip. I always love it when things like that not only meet your expectations but way exceed it

 

[OZDUCK]

Very envious. You are obviously having a great time. The only thing that seemed to be missing from the Mission Control Room was the pall of cigarette smoke - but at least they had the full ashtrays

 

[Human]

It was then time for my third and final trip into Johnson Space Center. This tram tour was to “Rocket Park”, the home of one of three Saturn V rockets that exist today. On the way, we passed several Texas “longhorn” cattle. They’re not inappropriately named.




Outside the hangar at Rocket Park were various rockets and engines. The most interesting one was a Redstone rocket and Mercury capsule. The Redstone launched America’s first astronauts, Alan Shepard and Gus Grissom, into space in 1961, but it didn’t have the power to put them into orbit. I can believe it. Compared with what I was about to see, the Redstone is minuscule.



I entered the hangar to take a look at the Saturn V: the rocket that powered the Moon landings. Wow – photos don’t do justice to how huge it is. I spent quite a bit of time there…












Along the walls of the hangar were huge infographics of every crewed Apollo mission.

 

[Human]

The tram dropped us off at a different entrance to SCH and I found myself in the “History” section. As if I hadn’t encountered enough amazing stuff already! This is the actual Mercury “Faith 7” capsule that flew to space in 1963. I couldn’t believe how small it is. I’m not sure how the astronauts actually fitted in…




Here’s an actual Gemini capsule that went to space in 1965. I would have gone mad cooped up in one of these for a week or more. There’s absolutely no room to move inside.




Tucked away nearby was the actual lectern, behind which JFK delivered his famous “We will go to the moon before the end of this decade” speech in 1961. That’s the closest to a President of the USA that I’m ever going to get…



Next was the Apollo 17 Command Module. Still small and cramped, but at least with a tiny bit of room for the astronauts to get up and move.




After a few more displays I entered a “Moon soil and rock” room. You could touch a moon rock…




And I exited after seeing a few more historical artefacts which were quite random but which nevertheless made me feel fascinated and excited!

 

[Human]

Then it was onto a display about returning to the Moon, which at this stage is earmarked for 2027.




By that stage I needed a coffee. Public Service Announcement: Asking for a “white coffee” in the USA will result in a blank stare. In America a white coffee is called “coffee with milk”. They did have cappuccinos, but I wasn’t inclined to pay an extra US$1.50 just for froth…

Before the Space Center closed, I had a quick look at the Skylab exhibit.





And just like that it was closing time. One of the most amazing days I can remember. I’d been there for 7 hours but it felt like 3.

To celebrate a wonderful day, I had a “True Texan Burger” for dinner, with root beer. Ah, the things one can get away with when one’s wife is not present…

 

[I love to travel]

Then it was onto a display about returning to the Moon, which at this stage is earmarked for 2027.
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By that stage I needed a coffee. Public Service Announcement: Asking for a “white coffee” in the USA will result in a blank stare. In America a white coffee is called “coffee with milk”. They did have cappuccinos, but I wasn’t inclined to pay an extra US$1.50 just for froth…

Before the Space Center closed, I had a quick look at the Skylab exhibit.
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And just like that it was closing time. One of the most amazing days I can remember. I’d been there for 7 hours but it felt like 3.

To celebrate a wonderful day, I had a “True Texan Burger” for dinner, with root beer. Ah, the things one can get away with when one’s wife is not present…
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So glad you had a fabulous day and lived out your dream.

 

[Coathanger]

Sensational day. Agree that the visit to Mission Control alone is worth anchoring a trip around. Thanks for taking us along for the ride, now on my travel longlist.

Echo the other posters who recommend the Udvar-Hazy Centre of the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum at Dulles. It’s like the Louvre of aviation.

 

[Human]

Sensational day. Agree that the visit to Mission Control alone is worth anchoring a trip around. Thanks for taking us along for the ride, now on my travel longlist.

Echo the other posters who recommend the Udvar-Hazy Centre of the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum at Dulles. It’s like the Louvre of aviation.

Thanks for the recommendation. I have a bit of a difficult decision to make then...

I have 3 days in Washington DC. My original plan was to do 2 days at the Smithsonian Air & Space museum, and to (reluctantly) forsake Udvar-Hazy and to spend the third day sightseeing (Lincoln Memorial, Capitol Hill, White House etc). So assuming that the Smithsonian A&S will take 2 days (and it might not if it's still under renovation, making my decision easy), what do I forsake on day 3 -- sightseeing or Udvar-Hazy??

Or should I try to squeeze the A&S into day 1, and definitely do Udvar-Hazy on day 2, keeping the sightseeing on day 3?

 

[Coathanger]

Or should I try to squeeze the A&S into day 1, and definitely do Udvar-Hazy on day 2, keeping the sightseeing on day 3?

That would be my approach.

A&S is in the same general precinct as your sightseeing day so you could pop in on Day 3 if you wanted more time.

I enjoyed walking from the Capitol all the way to the Lincoln Memorial, thankfully a mild day despite being December.

 

[jastel]

Looks very similar to what I remember from 14 years ago...except for the cows...
And the jumbo jet and space shuttle at the entrance door.

Mission Control was about to be used for the upcoming Space Shuttle mission, so some people were still working there, and there was another room monitoring the ISS which we were allowed to peek at.

I bought a T Shirt saying "Actually it IS Rocket Science"


Im unsure about what is open/closed at NASM, my last visit (in the diary) was only about 3 hours as over half of it was shut. My previous visit was all day long...no lunch even.
I think one day will be plenty....unless it has fully reopened.
You need to pre book this as my diary says...."popping in" may not be possible.

I would do a day at Udvar Hazy, it is more plane related but we had planes before rockets....
I like to see and read everything but sometimes time runs out so I photograph some things quickly (including the signs) and spend more time seeing the "star attractions".

You can see the monuments at night as well after the museums close...even though it will be cold. There are HOHO buses and I did a segway tour on dusk which was good as well.
The Capitol may be affected by the upcoming Trump inaugaration, on one of my visits Obama was just about to be sworn in and I couldnt see much around there with the security and scaffolding etc.
On my first visit the bloody pool was empty! Things might not be as you expect.

Washington is too big to see everything in 3 days but walking around is the best way to see what you can in the time you have.

 

[RooFlyer]

Or should I try to squeeze the A&S into day 1, and definitely do Udvar-Hazy on day 2, keeping the sightseeing on day 3?

That's what I would do, and did. There used to be a shuttle from the Smithsonian out to U-H but I think Covid took care of that.

Not sure if you contemplated visiting the US Space & Rocket Center museum in Huntsville, Alabama. If so, good decision not to - I was a bit disappointed in it, even though it had a Saturn V

US Space & Rocket Center museum in Huntsville

Great TR so far!

 

[Daver6]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have a bit of a difficult decision to make then...

I have 3 days in Washington DC. My original plan was to do 2 days at the Smithsonian Air & Space museum, and to (reluctantly) forsake Udvar-Hazy and to spend the third day sightseeing (Lincoln Memorial, Capitol Hill, White House etc). So assuming that the Smithsonian A&S will take 2 days (and it might not if it's still under renovation, making my decision easy), what do I forsake on day 3 -- sightseeing or Udvar-Hazy??

Or should I try to squeeze the A&S into day 1, and definitely do Udvar-Hazy on day 2, keeping the sightseeing on day 3?

Given A&S is right by the National Mall, you could squeeze in Lincoln Memorial, Capitol Hill, White House. Ie, 1.5 days and A&S and the half day around the National Mall leaving a day for Udvar-Hazy.

 

[jastel]

That's what I would do, and did. There used to be a shuttle from the Smithsonian out to U-H but I think Covid took care of that.

Not sure if you contemplated visiting the US Space & Rocket Center museum in Huntsville, Alabama. If so, good decision not to - I was a bit disappointed in it, even though it had a Saturn V

US Space & Rocket Center museum in Huntsville

Great TR so far!

New Train Line from DC now, then bus from train station to UH, big interchange, no stuffing around at airport and overcrowded buses like before.
Still takes a fair while but.

 

[drron]

I visited the Space and Rocket centre in Huntsville as Mrsdrron wanted to go to the Unclaimed baggage outlet in Scottsboro not far away. I also visited some of the Civil war battlefields in Alabama. There are many. Alabama was where the confederacy announced their secession.

 

[Human]

Yesterday was a 10 out of 10 day – days like that don’t happen often, even when travelling. I woke up today with a decision to make…

I’d seen probably 95% of what I wanted to see at Space Center Houston yesterday. In fact, the only thing I had not gotten to was the Independence display.


The Independence is not a real Space Shuttle – it’s a mock-up with displays inside of some of the design features of the Space Shuttle. But it’s on top of a real 747: the 747 that actually did carry the real Space Shuttles. So it would have been great to get inside and have a look.

However, was that one display worth the US$29.95 (plus tax) entrance fee? Given that I’m about to spend two days at Kennedy Space Center followed by two days at the Smithsonian, I decided to give the Space Center a miss and have a low(er) key day, especially that this would probably be my last opportunity to have a low(er) key day for at least a week.

Instead, I decided to do what Texans do on a Sunday…

This being Texas, there are half a dozen Churches within walking distance of my hotel. I decided on Nassau Bay Baptist Church.





I walked in and the first person I saw was a uniformed security guard. It goes without saying that it’s sad that Churches in America require uniformed security guards.

I took a seat and within a minute someone approached and welcomed me. He introduced himself, asked me why I was visiting Houston and, when I told him, he told me that before he retired he’d worked at Johnson Space Center. He used the word “director” to describe his role there; I looked up the Center’s website afterwards to confirm that he had not been the (chief) Director of the Center but from what he said he’d had a senior role. He called up the Pastor to come and meet “the visitor from Australia” and I had a nice conversation with him too. He told me that probably a quarter of the Church members do, or did, work for NASA. Soon afterwards another man approached and welcomed me; he was a retired army Colonel who left the Army to take up a job as the Nassau Bay City Manager, though he had retired from that job some years ago.

By the time the service started there were maybe 300 people seated across 2 levels. This probably isn’t the place to write about the service itself, apart from this one space-related coincidence that I can’t help relating. In the movie Fly Me to the Moon, there’s a scene (at about 1hr 15 mins, if you’re interested) where the main characters visit a US Senator who’s been holding back funding for the Moon landing because of his religious beliefs. Cole (the character played by Channing Tatum) then quotes Psalm 19 verse 1: “The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands”, and persuades the Senator to not withhold funding by asserting that the space programme actually helps people to grow closer to God.

I’m sure you can see where this is heading. Yes, the Bible reading today was Psalm 19.

After the service, the retired Army Colonel and Nassau Bay City Manager invited me to lunch. He and his wife, and another couple from the Church, took me to their favourite Mexican restaurant: a family-owned restaurant called Red River Cantina. Needless to say, the food there was so much better than food at the average Mexican restaurant in Australia. I had started eating before I remembered to photograph my serving, but I had half of it for lunch, and will have the other half for dinner!


It seems to be accepted here that people at restaurants ask for take-away boxes when (not if) they can’t finish their food – the servings are so big!!

Afterwards they drove me back and gave me a little tour of Nassau Bay on the way. The suburb, especially the waterfront parts of it, is a flood zone. There’s a common practice here which I hadn’t heard of called “elevating”, whereby entire houses are literally lifted up in their entirety and a new floor level is constructed underneath (with people still living in the “old” house on top)! You can see it in this house – notice the different construction material on the bottom level.


… And here’s an example of an “elevation” in progress:


Because of the flood zone, I was told that whatever is on/in the lower level is uninsurable.

I was also driven to Clear Lake and saw the water for the first time, before being dropped off at my hotel.




So it was a great morning! And it was such a blessing to meet, and spend time with, some genuine Texas locals.

 

[Human]

Later in the afternoon, I took an Uber to Kemah Boardwalk on Galveston Bay. I didn’t want to leave Houston without at least setting eyes on Galveston Bay. Unfortunately the weather started to turn nasty almost as soon as I was collected by the Uber.


After I was dropped off at Kemah, the rain became heavier and it started to get colder (tomorrow’s weather forcast is minus 1 to 8 degrees Celsius – very cold by Texas standards). I had remembered to bring my trusted Kathmandu gore-tex jacket with me, so I didn’t get wet. And at least I wasn’t having to battle the crowds! So I walked around taking some photos and trying to get to the water. Before too long I made it to the lovely Galveston Bay in pouring rain.













It didn’t take too long for me to start wondering whether a coffee might be a good idea. I found some random coffee place and ordered an exorbitantly-priced flat white.


I walked around a little more after that, but the rain was picking up again and the temperature was noticeably dropping, so I ordered another Uber and returned to my hotel.






Tomorrow, if all goes according to plan, I fly to Orlando (whose maximum forecast temperature is 25 – I’ll definitely be dressing in layers!).