A North Africa and Middle East ramble

[JohnM]

Next day was heading from Yazd to Kerman, further SE. Not far out of Yazd we made a brief stop at a restored-to-use caravanserai – essentially a motel for the ancient traders. It’s a large circular building with a central courtyard. The inner circular passage had small curtained ‘rooms’ for accommodation, with some larger rooms directly off the courtyard.





Onwards, via a morning tea stop in a picturesque desert town, to visit the ancient World Heritage troglodyte village of Meymand.





Through some mountainous country to descend to a plain approaching Kerman, which is the centre of Iranian pistachio production. Harvest had finished a mere 2-3 weeks before and they strip the trees quite thoroughly, but we managed to find a few remaining on some trees in an orchard where we made a random stop. Iran produces just under half of the world’s pistachios, which are a culinary, not a botanical, nut growing on a deciduous tree tolerant of desert conditions. Rather, they are a drupe which is a stone fruit (think peach).

 

[JohnM]

The following day saw a morning excursion out of Kerman to the attractive small town of Rayen and the Arg-e Rayen, its ancient adobe citadel. Some parts are restored, notably the governor’s complex with its passages and open courtyards, but large sections are not.

















On the way back to Kerman, a visit to the Shahzadeh Garden, dating from the late 19th century. It was a Friday, so the weekend, and there were many families having picnics and wandering the gardens.



Like millennials the world over: taking selfies – with an iPhone. Look at the looseness of the hijab.

 

[JohnM]

After the visit to the gardens, we stopped at the small town of Mahan to visit the blue-domed tomb of the revered 14th century Shah Nematollah-e-Vali.







Returning to Kerman. Vendors selling produce from the back of utes is pervasive in Iran. We then spent the late afternoon and evening in and around the Maidan (main square), visiting the Ganj-Ali Khan Complex and Hammam which has been converted into an ethnographic museum, the Vakil teahouse in another former covered bathhouse, and the Friday mosque. Kerman is famed for its beaten metalwork, exemplified by the statue outside the entrance to the square.





The old hammam.



The teahouse.



The covered bazaar just opening and then the packed open bazaar later. Even Iranian markets are not immune to vendors selling t-shirts with loud statements…



The Friday mosque.

 

[JohnM]

Next day was a long travel day through some scenic parts of the Zagros mountains to Shiraz – the city of gardens and poets.



Stop for morning tea at a town park. Pervasive in parking areas and along town streets in Iran are these charity boxes. Parks were often set up for tent camping. We were told that this is, in effect, what we know as caravan and camping parks. But I think there was also some ‘camping’ by itinerant homeless people.





Dried figs are a specialty of the Estahban area. They grow on small, widely-spaced and often bunded trees in the arid hills. The fruit are small. While they seem very dry and hard, they can be eaten like that, quickly taking on a chewy texture. Apparently, it is common to reconstitute them by soaking in water overnight. They are a quite moreish snack.



Late in the day not far from Shiraz we stopped at the Sarvestan Monument, a 5th century building thought to be a hunting lodge.

 

[JohnM]

Late into Shiraz but out early next morning for a jam-packed and stunning day. First stop was the Naranjestan garden and house, built around 1880. The central fountain area was under reconstruction, but the poster gave the idea before moving into the amazing pavilion.

















This guy in the artisans’ gallery in the basement was interesting. He painted onto feathers.

 

[JohnM]

Then it was on to the awesome Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque (the Pink Mosque). The highlight is the sun streaming through the wood-framed stained-glass windows in the hall.

 

[JohnM]

A few street scenes as we walked to the Khan Madrassa, an historic theological college down a small lane, entering the large peaceful courtyard through heavy wooden doors.





Then a wander through the bazaar to find a hip café for a break.



Moving on to the Arg-e Karim Khan, an ancient citadel.



The early evening was spent visiting the UNESCO-listed Eram garden, famous for its tall cypress trees and with its maze of lanes a popular haunt for courting couples.





The eye candy was pretty good, too… - but, seriously, again the young are quite laid-back. Some getting photographed with the… ahem… mature ladies of our group.



As night fell, the final stop for the day was the tomb of Hafez (1325-1389), Iran’s highly revered poet and folk hero.

 

[JohnM]

Next day was an excursion out from Shiraz to nearby Persepolis, the remains of the large monument of the ancient Archaemenid Empire. It dates to about 500BC. Compared with many Egyptian temples and palaces, Persepolis is largely destroyed. Some imagination is required to try to visualise the scale of the buildings.

It is, however, the bas-reliefs that steal the show. The light colour of the stone darkens and takes on a shine where some people have reached across the barriers and touched it.













From Persepolis, we moved on a few km to the rock tombs and the fire temple of Naghsh-e-Rostam.

 

[JohnM]

On return to Shiraz, we visited the tomb of Sa’di, another revered scholar and poet (died 690 AD). And, in the garden, after some patient stalking I snared some pics of the famed nightingale of Shiraz. The bird is famed for its song.





Followed by what was, I think, an unscheduled visit to the tomb of Emir Ali, a nephew of a shah. The mirror-work in this tomb blew me away.

 

[amaroo]

Cracking photos.

 

[JohnM]

Cracking photos.

Gracias, senor .

 

[JohnM]

Next day was moving on from Shiraz, turning northwards through the Zagros Mountains towards Isfahan and via the (quite limited remains) of Pasargardae, the city begun under Cyrus the Great in about 550BC. Pasargardae was quickly superseded by Darius I’s Persepolis.

If Persepolis needs some imagination to visualise its scale, Pasargardae needs a lot more. Interesting enough and on the way to Isfahan, but otherwise probably not worth a special visit.

The rock tombs again, from the bus while zipping past on the highway and some general scenes. Pasargardae is so extensive and the remnants so scattered that buggies are used to move about. The Tomb of Cyrus is the highlight.

 

[JohnM]

Next morning bright and early began two days exploring Isfahan. First stop was Vank Cathedral in the pleasant Armenian sector. Built around 1650 it is the historical focal point of the Armenian Church (Christian) in Iran.









Moving on to Maidan-e Imam (Imam Square), the famous and very large central square of Isfahan. First stop, in an alley just before entering the square was the shop of a miniaturist painter for a demonstration. The brush is Persian cat hair. He painted an image of Hafez, the revered poet and, as the person with their birthday nearest that day, I scored the painting.



The square is hard to capture at ground level.

 

[JohnM]

The Imam, or Royal, Mosque dominates the southern end of the square.







Then to Ali Qapu Palace, built as a residence for Shah Abbas I in the late 16th century, on the western side of the square. The upstairs music room with its intricate carved ceilings and walls to enhance the acoustics is fascinating.





After a coffee and bite to eat in a pleasant courtyard off the square, it was out of the main square to the nearby Hasht Behesht Palace.





Then a late afternoon and evening visit to some of the bridges that cross the now dry Zayandeh River.

The Shahrestan Bridge is the oldest, dating from the 12th century; nice sculpture in the nearby park.



Probably the most famous is the Si-o-Seh Bridge, or the Bridge of 33 Arches, which looks most spectacular lit up at night.

 

[JohnM]

Next day began with a visit to the Masjed-e Jameh (Friday Mosque) of Isfahan, the oldest Friday mosque in Iran. There has been religious activity and design influences on the site dating back to the Zoroastrians.









From there, a lengthy walk through the interconnected alleyways of the bazaar eventually had us pop out in the NE corner of the main square. It was a religious holiday, so shops were shut, at least in the morning.



Then to Mashed-e Sheikh Lotfollah (Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque) on the eastern side of the square. It’s unusual, having neither a minaret nor a courtyard, thought to be because it was never intended for use as a public mosque, but rather the worship place for the women of the shah’s harem. Light on the ceiling of the dome creates a ‘peacock’s tail’ effect.





On to Chehel Sotun Palace, the only surviving palace of the royal precinct immediately west of the main square. The complex in the extensive gardens was built as a pleasure pavilion and reception hall.

 

[JohnM]

We then adjourned to the gardens of the beautiful Abbassi Hotel, the top hotel in Isfahan, for a drink.



Next morning it was on the road again, heading north and back to Tehran, with a mid-morning stop at the small town of Natanz – with prominent martyr posters - to visit the Islamic complex of mosque, monastery and tomb of Sheikh Abdol-Samad Isfahani. The interior is mainly stripped. The mausoleum on the top of a distant hill was for the Sheikh’s favourite hunting falcon.

Morning tea was taken in the shade of the 500-year-old plane tree. Natanz is famous – or infamous – for the nearby underground uranium enrichment facility.







Next day back in Tehran and first visit was to the Golestan Palace complex. It was the home of the various shahs. Photography is not permitted inside the more opulent buildings.

We had some free time to get some lunch and visit the nearby massive and crowded Tehran bazaar, with its gaggle of furiously-gesticulating money-changers outside, before our visit to the National Jewels Museum (no photographs permitted) to wrap up our final day. RooFlyer, another guy in the group and I took the opportunity to grab a taxi to make a visit to the Azadi Tower, built in 1971 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of the first Persian empire.

 

[JohnM]

And that wrapped up the Iran tour. Next morning it was out to IKA and the great pleasure of a completely separate lounge building for premium pax - the CIP (Commercially Important Persons) Lounge. Alight taxi and concierge immediately takes bags, passport and flight information – all for background processing while the CIPs go straight into the lounge. F upstairs, J downstairs. Not a sign of any scrum. This should happen elsewhere!

I was EK F and RooFlyer was in QR J departing within a short time of each other. So up we go to the F lounge for a good breakfast omelette made by a cheerful egg chef.



My bird arriving. Shuttled over to the terminal - with no mixing of J riff-raff with F pax. Taxiing out, that’s the separate CIP building on the right.



After a dry two weeks, the Dom over Qom and the Shiraz over Shiraz went down a treat!





I had an overnight stop in DXB, so decided to take myself out to the Jumeirah Beach Hotel for sunset in the shadow of the Burj al-Arab, followed by dinner later that evening at the outdoor restaurant staring up at the light show on the Burj. A pleasant last evening after almost seven weeks on the road.





Next day homeward bound DXB-PER. Only two pax in F. This day into evening flight is great because it’s not sleepy-time and it’s lunch & dinner - but it’s dangerous in terms of spending a lot of time slurping through Dom and the wine list…







And so ends a sensational trip.

 

[OZDUCK]

Thanks for the fascinating trip report. The more photos of Iran I see the more interesting it looks.

 

[amaroo]

Top shelf!!! All the destinations look smashing.... Ethiopia was a real surprise. Egypt .... yeah, gotta get over there.

 

[drron]

A wonderful,informative TR.
Unfortunately time means we will probably not get to enjoy these places personally but have enjoyed travelling along.