A RTW study tour, mostly on Star Alliance

[RooFlyer]

So, off we choofed.

Weather remained overcast and the first hour or so was pretty, but uninspiring.




Then we started climbing into the mountains and the remaining winter snow remained, and got thicker and thicker ... and then new snow was falling!




After a few hours we reached Myrdal station, elevation 866 metres; it was very cold (just a few degrees), and occasionally sleeting. I was on a 'Norway in a Nutshell' tour, between Oslo and Bergen, which I would recommend. Its a combination of rail, bus and fjord cruises and you choose where to stay a night or several, in same place or different stops. Its not guided, but very simple to link in the various sectors. I had a full suitcase which I had to haul around with me ... maybe a 100m stretch was the longest, between the rail and my hotel in Flam.

Anyway, at Myrdal station (left) I left the Bergen train and joined the 'Flam railway' (carriage on RH) - quite a well known tour railway. It joins the main line at Myrdal to the little town of Flam, on the Aurlands fjord—a branch of Sogne fjord.




The line drops 864m in 20km - 1 in 18 overall, but a lot steeper in places (5.5% max); 20 tunnels and 1 bridge. Unfortunately it was sleeting for most of the way. On the LH is a glimpse down into the valley and on the RH pic a view of an old hairpin access road on the other side of the valley.





After almost an hour the village of Flam comes into view - with a 16th century church (no tin pic). I was staying at the Flamsbryggan Hotel - a 'rustic' lodge which unfortunately was a bit too rustic, it being the low season.

 

[RooFlyer]

The Flamsbryggan Hotel was just OK, although I had to remember it was low season. There was a conference on, so the main hotel building, and the hotel restaurant was off-limits. I was put into the second building, which was OK. The bedroom was basic, but comfortable enough. Through the night I got woken by gales outside - not a good prospect for the cruise!




Dinner had to be at the 'Brewpub' next door. Couldn't be seated immediately as the chef was being shared between here and the conference dinner. Mmaybe I'd like a beer while I'm waiting - A$14 for 330ml (abt 1/2 pint) - only ONE then! When the chef turned up I had salmon gravlax - tasty enough, but again, expensive - $43 for this, the cheapest 'mains' option.




Next morning - the cruise boat, and the Flam train on the right; 2 electric engines, and older style carriages. It runs at least 3 times a day this time of year and much more in summer. I asked the hotel (50m from the departure point) when they boarded before departure (as it was bitterly cold and blowing). they didn't know. Was there shelter at the boarding point? They didn't know. Pretty bad, seeing that conferences aside, just about 100% of their guests would be there to take the cruise, throughout the year.




Turns out there was shelter in the info centre next to the boat, but they didn't board until about 5 mins before departure! Many very cold passengers waiting around; pretty poor, I thought. Then, after one aborted shove-off, we stayed at the dock for another 15 mins due to the high winds. :shock:

Fortunately inside was very comfortable. Only about 40 pax, so lots of room. Comfy seats inside, with drinks available and basic snacks (including the inevitable, in Norway, coughpy hot-dog).




And then we were on the fjord. It was bitterly cold, and the wind cut right through you if you went up on the viewing decks.

 

[RooFlyer]

The cruise, of about 2.5 hrs from Flam to Gudvangen was spectacular, but the wather took a lot away! Brief patches of sunshine amongst the squalls.






A number of settlements clinging onto the edge of the fjord.




At Gudvangen, we got off into rain; there was a big café and souvenier shop to wait the 30 mins for the bus, which would be the next leg. One hour by coach to Voss.




At Voss, the bus dropped us off at the railway car park and then it was abt 200m in rain and sleet to the station building, which was bleak and cold. No, that's not me, but much as I felt at this stage.

 

[RooFlyer]

Continued on the train to Bergen (same service as I started on, from Oslo) and arrived early afternoon. I stated at the Radisson Royal, situated within the historic 'bryggen' (wharf) area, a World Heritage site. The hotel sits behind and incorporates some of the historic wharf buildings (LH pic) and is a great example of putting a large, modern hotel right in amongst a historic area. You'd never know it was there, or at least the size of it. (Hobart hotel builders take note!!). RH pic some more of the historic wharfs.




Bergen was founded in 1070 and is the second biggest city in Norway at about 250,000 or 400,000 in the greater area. At the end of the 13th century it was a major trading centre and port of the Hanseatic league - traders in northern mainland Europe; it prospered doing so. I only had an afternoon and a morning there but would have liked to have had at least a day more. Its a very nice city, easy to getaround and has many sights including the fjords on which it sits! St Mary's church on the right, dating from the 1100s.





More old buildings - from the old trading days






The port is very busy - fjord cruises, ferries to nearby islands which have large communing communities on them, the Norwegian navy, cargo ships etc

 

[RooFlyer]

That's the Radisson behind the wharf buildings. Lots of fish in Bergen, of course!




Room was pretty standard; functional and comfortable.




I decided to eat at the hotel restaurant which was ranked highly on Trip Advisor and specialised in seafood.

Or so it should have. I was really peeved to find that three seafood dishes were unavailable, including my first and second choices. And my first beer choice was also not available; although the # 2 choice was nice.




Crab meat spring roils (the shiny things are lids to dipping sauce containers) and main of trout. Both v. nice. All up A$100, expensive as Norway always is.





A panorama of Bergen bryggen; on the left is a fort.

 

[JessicaTam]

As usual great pics.

What sort of temperatures did you experience?

 

[RooFlyer]

Bloody freezing.

Looking at averages, I budgeted clothes - wise for between 10 and 15 degrees. As it happened, there was a 'cold snap' and daily max temps in Norway were between 2 and 13, mostly <10. In Bergen, there were passing hail storms, then sunshine, then a few flurries of snow. I had my "#3" coat which wasn't quite enough!

 

[JessicaTam]

Bloody freezing.

Looking at averages, I budgeted clothes - wise for between 10 and 15 degrees. As it happened, there was a 'cold snap' and daily max temps in Norway were between 2 and 13, mostly <10. In Bergen, there were passing hail storms, then sunshine, then a few flurries of snow. I had my "#3" coat which wasn't quite enough!

Thanks for that.

 

[RooFlyer]

A few minutes walk from the Radisson is the Bergenhus Fortress, one of the oldest and best preserved castles in Norway. Parts of the surviving structures date from the 1200s, but it evolved throughout time as a royal residence (when Bergen was the capital), a walled sub-city with its own cathedral, churches, a garrison etc. The Rosenkrantz Tower was begun in the 1200s and finished in the 1500s.




The guy on the left looks like a stern old Lutheran, doesn't he? Can't say that for the guys on the right.




On the left is King Haakon's Hall, built around 1260





View of the harbour from the fort. In 1665 the Danish-Norwegian king approved the capture by an English Fleet of some Dutch trading vessels (from the east Indies) in order to share in the spoils. Unfortunately no-one told the locals about the plan, and they open fired on the English, causing substantial losses. Ooops.




Behind the fort and bryggen area are some nice quaint neighbourhoods, centuries old and with streets too narrow and winding for cars.

 

[RooFlyer]

In the narrow laneways in the bryggen. Early Saturday morning, so virtually no-one around. Buildings are occupied by arts and crafts, some businesses etc. Hope they are well fire insured.






Damn seagulls got no respect.

 

[RooFlyer]

Located in the Torgallmenningen square is the Sailors Monument - although there is nothing on the sculpture to say what it is and its not marked on any maps. Commemorates Norwegians' activities with the sea, especially of course the Vikings. All men.













Also in the square were these beauties. Still working.

 

[RooFlyer]

From Bergen I was on the Kystbussen (Coast Bus) for the 5 hour trip to Stavanger. I got a taxi to the airport and managed to get ripped off - there was a meter but obviously set at a high rate. Not everything in Norway is squeaky clean. Anyway the bus (coach) was good, although, amazingly, it didn't have Wi-Fi.




The route took us more-or-less due south from Bergen to Stavanger via highways, several ferries and a number of long tunnels. The first ferry was a 40 minute crossing of some fjord mouths and the bus arrived 5 minutes before boarding was to begin . The bus pulled off to the side and then was waved on first (as always happens, I found out), so that it was first off. Not sure how all the cars feel about this, as there are very little passing opportunities!!




The ferry was large and had a big area of pax seating upstairs, with a snack area, very well catered. Heaps of room - more tan these pics indicate. Again, no Wi-Fi though.




Rolled off the ferry and continued on, stopping occasionally. There were about 5 tunnels in all, most between 3 and 6 km long.




At one point, the tunnel split into 2 routes, and there was a full sized round-about underground ... I didn't manage to photograph it, unfortunately. Strong engineering. RH pic was the end of the second ferry run - 20 mins.

 

[RooFlyer]

I was in Stavanger to do some family history research, which included meeting a 5th cousin (once removed). But you can't go to Stavanger without doing the Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) cruise, or indeed the hike there if it was summer.

Not summer, by a long shot, so we boarded in cold weather (still). Stavanger used to be a fishing town (sardines) but for the last 30+ years its been the centre of the Norwegian oil and gas industry (ie North Sea production).




I think that was a mobile salmon-fish-farm processing thing, in Stavanger fjord.




Still able to marvel at some engineering - from this bridge you plunge immediately into a deep tunnel.




After an hour or so Preikestolen became visible. To be honest, a bit underwhelming from below.




Its only when you see it from the top that you get the 'wow' factor! Yes, there are no fences or barriers to the 600m drop (even though a few people have gone over the edge). The big thing is to sit on the edge and dangle your legs. (Not this little black duck!!!)

 

[RooFlyer]

At one point we stopped at a waterfall and they collected some water for us to taste. Regrettably, unlike my recent glacier cruise, there was no whiskey added. Some locals.




Back to Stavanger and the local neighbourhoods. Stavanger Cathedral, dating from the 1100s.




Inner port area; I think this is a sculpture commemorating the fishing industry ... (prawn and cuttlefish??)




But most things in Stavanger these days point to the Norwegian oil and gas industry, which has been based here since oil was discovered in the North Sea in 1969. The industry transformed Norway's economy, and Stavanger in total. That's the oil museum on the left and a picture of one of the offshore platforms. They are almost unimaginably massive, and are floated out to position, and then sunk. Below the water the 'legs' and massive (then) air filed tanks keep it afloat.




Its a rather interesting museum, in spite of its monotonous theme. Most will know my views on the oil and gas sector, and its opposing forces. I was rather amused that there were several displays gallantly trying to reconcile the oil and gas industry with Norway's green image and 'sustainable development' in general.

 

[RooFlyer]

At Stavanger I stayed at the Radisson 'Royal' Hotel. OK, but not a patch on those in Oslo or Bergen. I found this notice a bit odd (well, re the iron, anyway).




My cousin invited me to dinner - reindeer in traditional brown chees sauce, and it was a trip highlight. Nothing like a family meal in the middle of a long trip. Stavanger airport is very busy due to the oil industry and a bit chaotic. I had a SAS flight to Heathrow, which was uneventful.

Arriving at Heathrow, I screwed up my carefully planned arrival, royally. My actual hotel, Novotel West London was pretty cough. No status recognition, at all; staff who knew nothing about the hotel's facilities or the area; they wanted to add an additional 'pre authorisation' for 'extras' -that is, use of bar and dining facilities. This I refused, and they got nothing out of me in that regard. Has anyone come across this before??

And when I checked out, they went to grossly over-charge me - it was a points (mostly) and cash booking, and they didn't have the points component in it. Due to a previous major stuff up, this was to be my last Accor stay (but I snuck one more in). Awful stay.

View from the corridor over London and my 'office' for the 2 days I was in London - the UK National Archives - where I was doing some research for my uni studies.




I'm sorry if I am 'tired of life', but I despise London (expensive, dirty, crowded) and couldn't get out fast enough. I had a hire car and was on my way to Pembrokeshire in Wales. Across the Severn bridge, which I hoped to do in the light, but just missed out (but not the 6 pounds 50p toll!!)




I had booked a cheap Ibis Budget for a stop along the way. More recognition here than at the Novotel!




Pembrokshire Archives in Haverford West; two days research. Stayed overnight at the Wolfs Castle Inn, just to the north. Well priced, and comfortable.

 

[RooFlyer]

It was a 'typical' done-up country hotel. Room was large (I think I got an upgrade) and 'plush' and over-heated. Bathroom was super though - not the usual plumbing issues, a blissful heated floor and an even more blissful deep bath!




Dinner in house was good, and inexpensive.



Salmon on the left (red via curing) and mains of flatiron beef, which was pretty good. The big thing on the lower part was a tomato!




On the afternoon of second day, Ileft the Archives and hit the road north, headed for Nth Wales via a night in Snowdonia. Castles and gambolling lambs set the scene.




Hit the western coast of Wales and some attractive towns, and very unattractive non beaches (smelly seaweed rocks)

 

[RooFlyer]

The drive was very scenic; It was a pity that this was a 'work' (study) trip else I would have taken my time, but as it happens it was a bit of a zoom.




Town didn't look very 'depressed', I think tourism in Wales is pretty active. And of cours ethere are the slate mines, still in production!!




I finally arrived in Betws-y-Coed (no idea how to pronounce), over the 'Waterloo' bridge.




And to my lodgings, the Waterloo Hotel. Just cabin standard, nothing fancy.




The place is gorgeous; a 'gateway to Snowdonia'.

 

[RooFlyer]

No internet on my laptop where I've been staying last few days. Will resume when have more than my phone.

 

[RooFlyer]

Dinner at an old coaching inn pub/restaurant just a few minutes walk away. I phoned and they squeezed me in early - I discovered later that reservations are usually needed a week or so ahead. Good reminders of local slate






Entrée of steamed mussels in a fantastic reduction and mains of lobster - guaranteed fresh from the fish monger. Both really nice.




Next day, I was headed to Manchester but first a stop at a place I've always wanted to visit - the Menai bridge, on the NW tip of Wales, linking Anglesey Island to the mainland. It was completed in 1826 and has 16 chain cables, originally nearly 1,000 linked iron bars (now steel). The height of modern technology in its time.

 

[RooFlyer]

I wrote a longish post about my visit to Chester, but it somehow didn't make it, and I can't be bothered writing all that wonderful prose again , so here'a a summary:

Chester, a walled city established by the Romans in 79 AD and much history since.


That's the original Roman wall on the left, and a ~1600s re-build in the red stone. Cathedral on right




More Cathedral:



And detail on exterior:




Many of these Tudor buildings are in fact Victorian, but many are in fact Tudor: