A short trip to Japan - Hokkaido

[RooFlyer]

Last year, I booked a RTW, commencing and finishing in Japan, as that was much cheaper than begin/end in Australia. I got a KrisFlyer redemption MEL-xSIN-HND to get me to Japan but didn't book a return home from Japan as I planned to stop in Australia on the way back, and use the AY ticket final leg SYD-HND for a later trip to Japan, catching the AFF Annual Lounge Crawl at HKG on the way back home, using multiple QFF awards. Everything in J.

I cancelled the RTW for a full refund back in January and transferred the KrisFlyer ticket to today (30 May) to have 10 days in Japan prior to the Hing Kong lounge crawl, arranged by @Matt_01 . Why only 10 days? Bit complicated but at the time of re-booking, I had a couple of major appointments at home preventing an earlier departure. Anyway, I thought this would be a good length of 'sampler' before I did a decent trip sometime in the future. I've always wanted to see more of Japan.

I've been there about 6 or 7 times, either just 24-48 hrs in Tokyo coming back from Canada on business using a QF 'Circle Pacific' fare and other times also on business, just in Tokyo. I've done a dew day trips, but never stayed anywhere except there.

So I decided on Hokkaido, as the temperature and humidity would be good and lots of wilderness, volcanic features & onsens to see and use.

Now, while I have travelled in and survived many non-English speaking counties (in fact, the majority, I think) the Japanese have psyched me out a bit. Huge numbers of tourists visiting this year and many reports of bad behaviour by some. In any case, I'd like to go as far as I can to conform to the expectations of my hosts and also not to get stuck not knowing what to do. Hence my thread Hokkaido, where many kindly AFFers gave me tips on how things work. Thanks to you all!

Arriving Nagoya NGO then train to Osaka where I have three nights at the Marriott shin-Osaka there, so I can have a day trip to Himeji Castle. I've had two failed attempts to get there in the past. The other day I hope to get to Nara. Then another award flight ITM-CTS (Sapporo) on JAL where I hire a car and zoom around for a week. Japan connoisseurs will be horrified at the pace I plan, but I wanted to experience a lot in the time I have and hopefully come back another time to do the place properly.

All hotels and transport pre booked and I just hope my hotel selections end up what I think I've requested.

Then award flights to HKG via TPE on Air China where I'll stay at the airport before doing the lounge crawl next evening, then its Qantas back to Sydney & Hobart

 

[RooFlyer]

Currently ensconced in the SilverKris lounge at MEL, after an uneventful QF flight up from HBA yesterday. Overnight at the Novotel on Collins, a solid choice.

I checked in on-line yesterday, the first time I've done that. Through security and immigration at about noon, no problems - pretty quiet.

So, I think I'm ready - yen in wallet, Wise card loaded up with more Yen, Int Drivers License with me, flexiroam e-sim in place with Japan plan, whole itinerary loaded into TripIt, and therefore the flights imported into Flighty; spare phone, Netflix shows loaded onto phone, . I even have the suica app and card on my phone. Cards with basic Japanese phrases at the ready (thanks @Seat0B ).

 

[rbjhan]

Ah just in time!
Hokkaido is a great choice this time of the year. Last day in Tokyo it was so humid I thought I was not going to survive....and not even June yet!

 

[RooFlyer]

SQ228 departed a bit late and arrived SIN about 35 mins late. For the first 90 mins we climbed to 10 km in clouds with a small to moderate chop turbulence and the seatbelt stayed on. A few pax in business made a beeline for the toilets during that time and got sent back to their seats.

When we broke free of the clouds at 10,000 m, it was calm and stayed that way for the rest of the flight.

No pictures of menu or food, sorry - what kind of trip report is this? I just had lamb biryani from book the cook and it was delicious.

I haven’t been on SQ for quite awhile and I forgotten what a horror the seats were when it comes to turn into a bed. Thid isn’t bed mode, but you can see the angle your legs will have to get to.




Currently in the SilverKris lounge at Changi waiting for my 1:20 am flight to Nagoya. It was a zoo like when I arrived but has cleared out now and almost deserted and all you can hear is just a couple of kids screaming and running around.

 

[RooFlyer]

Hmmmm the SilverKris lounge isn’t a place for relaxing is it? Besides the ever present kids running around, doing what kids do when they’re overtired, even when the lounge is nearly empty there’s the ever present clink clank clink of cleaning carts going round and round and round even though there’s absolutely nothing to clean or pick up. Time for a walk, I think.

 

[RooFlyer]

SQ672 SIN-NGO was a 1:20am departure on a B787/10. pretty uneventful except for the seat belt sign going on and off quite a few times, accompanied of course by an announcement in English and Japanese.

The seat. A bit narrow to be honest, but the leg well is probably larger than most although it’s still narrow and disruptive when to turn one way or another.




The chair's wing is about unnecessary I think.


It was a single meal service for the 6 1/2 hour flight but you could take it either as supper after takeoff or breakfast. The cabin was woken up and breakfast served a good 2 1/4 hours before touchdown which is a bit silly I thought. perhaps I were anticipating to balancing the final hour.





I chose warm crepes and it was very nice.

 

[rbjhan]

Ah I feel exactly the same about my latest SQ flights.... sigh, very much prefer the 787 seats....

 

[Flyfrequently]

Currently ensconced in the SilverKris lounge at MEL, after an uneventful QF flight up from HBA yesterday. Overnight at the Novotel on Collins, a solid choice.

I checked in on-line yesterday, the first time I've done that. Through security and immigration at about noon, no problems - pretty quiet.

So, I think I'm ready - yen in wallet, Wise card loaded up with more Yen, Int Drivers License with me, flexiroam e-sim in place with Japan plan, whole itinerary loaded into TripIt, and therefore the flights imported into Flighty; spare phone, Netflix shows loaded onto phone, . I even have the suica app and card on my phone. Cards with basic Japanese phrases at the ready (thanks @Seat0B ).

On board with you @RooFlyer - enjoy and happy travels

 

[RooFlyer]

We landed at Nagoya half an hour early. Immigration wasn’t bad . I was quick off the plane and managed to enter the immigration area just before a large aeroplane load from somewhere else.

Two finger prints only, passport and customs QR code all at the immigration booth. Waved through customs??

I'm HLO this trip, so out to land side 25 mins after deplaneing.

Navigated to the Meitetsu rail line for a trip into Nagoya to catch the Shinkansen to Osaka. Fairly straightforward with a reserved seat.





Then navigated at Nagoya to the Shinkansen ticket office. Against advice here I decided to get a green car ticket on a Nozumi train. I was very very tired and couldn’t hack a crowded carriage or being next to loud fellow passengers.

Ended up being a good choice because I had a look in the other carriages and they were very crowded.



Osaka station, and I had booked the Marriott because it was very close and handy for my journeys for the next couple of days and hopefully a predictable stay. Booked through Qantas hotels for what looks like a pretty decent rate.

But .... ummmm ..... how the hell do you know what exit to take from the huge, crowded station with corridors shooting off an all directions, none of which pointed to anything outside of the station. I mapped it as a walk on Google Maps but that doesn’t give you the exit from the station.

Muddled through - I wasn’t in any hurry because I knew I’d be early to the hotel.

Checked into the hotel around noon and no, my room wasn’t ready. I had some lunch at the not very fancy restaurant off the lobby. Interesting - they don’t do tipping in Japan but apparently they do do service charges? Because it’s an American chain, I wonder?



Very much an American chain of course I’m now sitting back in the lobby waiting for my room, surrounded by very loud Americans

 

[rbjhan]

We landed at Nagoya half an hour early. Immigration wasn’t bad . I was quick off the plane and managed to enter the immigration area just before a large aeroplane load from somewhere else.

Two finger prints only, passport and customs QR code all at the immigration booth. Waved through customs??

I'm HLO this trip, so out to land side 25 mins after deplaneing.

Navigated to the Meitetsu rail line for a trip into Nagoya to catch the Shinkansen to Osaka. Fairly straightforward with a reserved seat.

View attachment 387558

View attachment 387557

Then navigated at Nagoya to the Shinkansen ticket office. against advance here I decided to get a green car ticket on a Nozumi train. I was very very tired and couldn’t hack a crowded carriage or being next to loud fellow passengers.

Ended up being a good choice because I had a look in the other carriages and they were very crowded.

View attachment 387559

Osaka station, and I had booked the Marriott because it was very close and handy for my journeys for the next couple of days and hopefully a predictable stay. Booked through Qantas hotels for what looks like a pretty decent rate.

But .... ummmm ..... how the hell do you know what exit to take from the huge, crowded station with corridors shooting off an all directions, none of which pointed to anything outside of the station. I mapped it as a walk on Google Maps but that doesn’t give you the exit from the station.

Muddled through - I wasn’t in any hurry because I knew I’d be early to the hotel.

Checked into the hotel around noon and no, my room wasn’t ready. I had some lunch at the not very fancy restaurant off the lobby. Interesting - they don’t do tipping in Japan but apparently they do do service charges? Because it’s an American chain, I wonder?

View attachment 387568

Very much an American chain of course I’m now sitting back in the lobby waiting for my room, surrounded by very loud Americans

Only the fancy hotels have service charges....
I almost forgot about it until I got the bill at Shangri-la.... bam!

 

[cosi]

The service charge is for the Oshibori - the wet towel served in all restaurants and bars

 

[Daver6]

Checked into the hotel around noon and no, my room wasn’t ready. I had some lunch at the not very fancy restaurant off the lobby. Interesting - they don’t do tipping in Japan but apparently they do do service charges? Because it’s an American chain, I wonder?

You're in Japan. People are polite. If someone on the train needs to use their phone, they go to the special section for using phones. You don't need to worry about a loud person next to you there

 

[trendwhore]

But .... ummmm ..... how the hell do you know what exit to take from the huge, crowded station with corridors shooting off an all directions, none of which pointed to anything outside of the station. I mapped it as a walk on Google Maps but that doesn’t give you the exit from the station.

Good thing to do is look at the maps they usually have in the stations, and often it can help. Not saying always it helps because I've definitely gone out the wrong exits after looking at it but it's handy knowledge as most of the stations around the country have similar maps

 

[RooFlyer]

Good thing to do is look at the maps they usually have in the stations, and often it can help. Not saying always it helps because I've definitely gone out the wrong exits after looking at it but it's handy knowledge as most of the stations around the country have similar maps

I pride myself on spatial awareness and navigational skills, but the first map I saw on the wall completely baffled me. I almost certainly was not where "you are here" was marked. But you are right, with enough wandering and looking at additional maps, I found the way out. The Marriott was accessed by an elevated walkway about 70m from the exit.

The Marriott. Completely soulless place, but that's what happens when you are right next to the main rail station, which is under the grey building. The remm is also a hotel.



Pretty standard room. This was a 'soft landing' for me in Japan, before I tackled the ryokans of Hokkaido







Not a car-park in sight,

 

[RooFlyer]

After a badly needed shower, I ventured back into the station concourse to see what shops were there and to get some more cash, which was no problem with my Wise card.

I checked out the 7/11 and was thrilled to see my favourite - a tofu bar



This place was noted (don't worry @Seat0B , @rbjhan , I shall not darken its door!) That said, people who have followed my TRs before will know that food is not a highlight of my travels. Combination of being a solo traveller and so not lingering over a meal plus in the evening, I'm usually tired and just want something quick & easy.




True to form, being completely knackered tonight, I ate at the hotel's non-fancy restaurant and had one of their special sets for about A$50

Small fish burger, rolled beef and pickles, spinach pasta




"Seafood soup of the day"



Beef taco (somewhere under there)



Main of grilled fish (salmon). Ice cream to finish.




It was pretty good and surprisingly filling. @Seat0B 'go chi sew sa ma'# got a very good reaction

# Thank you for the meal

 

[rbjhan]

I pride myself on spatial awareness and navigational skills, but the first map I saw on the wall completely baffled me. I almost certainly was not where "you are here" was marked.

The problem is, at least to me, those maps are often not pointed to the North!
Instead whichever way they feel like
After a few tries I just ignore them now.

 

[RooFlyer]

Absolutely crashed and burned last night, asleep by 10 and properly awake by 7 - about 8 hours including waking, according to my watch; I hardly ever sleep for more than 7 hours .

In fact I slept in a bit and got to the shinkansen ticket office later than planned and then discovered how much people absolutely faff about buying their train tickets. I mean, how hard can it be, especially for locals (and nearly all the clientele looked Japanese, at least). There were 4 sales agents and it took me 20 mins to get served. There was one couple at the counter the entire time I was there! After greetings, I ask for one person to Himeji, about 20 mins from now, either nozomi or hikari, reserved seat, dozo. I was out within 5 minutes of arriving at the counter, and that included me making sure I understood which platform I had to go to (as it doesn't seem to be on the ticket).

Yes, I know I could use a machine, but I like in-person, until I get the hang of it.

Anyway ... a nice ride to Himeji on a lovely fine day, and third time lucky, I got there! White herons in the sky over the White Heron castle?





The castle was the site of a fortification in the fifteenth century & before. The present iteration dates from 1609 after a construction period of only about 10 years or less and was built as a fort for the local governor. No-one lived there apparently - it was intended as a retreat in case a hostile force made it to the area. Although the main structure appears to have five levels, internally, there are seven.

An invader who made it into the castle would probably count on five sets of stairs to get to the top, where the Governor and the last forces would be. However, the stairs from the actual fifth level inside to the actual sixth, could be retracted up, and 'trap doors' closed. An invader might be stumped for a bit as to what had happened. We were told that, yes, the Governor etc's position would still be hopeless, but it would give the Governor time to ritually disembowel himself rather than be taken or killed by the enemy.

However, all that supposes that an invader would get to the actual building. The entrance to the structure is winding, narrow and entirely overlooked by gun and arrow slots. An invading force would have very little chance of even reaching the tower. No invader ever made it to the castle, and it was undamaged in WW2, making it one of the twelve original castles in Japan, and I think its first World Heritage site (1993).

Although they call it 'original', in the sense it was not rebuilt after fire etc, I was surprised to learn that after a renovation in the 2nd half of the 20th century, only 40% of what we see today is 'original'.

A cross section; seven levels (including basement, which is well above ground level!!)



A model



A dragon, which spouts water, not fire and protects the building from fire.



Typical internal structure. Beams are Pine and Fir mostly.



Racks for weapons



View from the top, looking back towards the station. You can get a taxi, but its an easy walk.

 

[RooFlyer]

One of the massive wooden pillars that are the backbone of the castle



Roof ornimentation



Inside there were some panels explaining the to main phases of restoration. The first, after WW2, which amazed me. Himeji was a military town in WW2 and was extensively bombed, but the castle escaped (unlike Nara and Kyoto, it was not deliberately spared by the Allies). The panel explains why the restoration was started so quickly when much of the country was in ruins.

Note that "the main keep was entirely dismantled, repaired and re-assembled".



The second renovation, in the 1990s. You'd be a bit annoyed to arrive and see it entirely cloaked in fabric!

 

[RooFlyer]

I took an English language tour. Maximum of 10, leaving from 10am, so I wanted to arrive early. Being later than planned (9:40 on-site) I was worried, but I was first on the list! 1,000 yen - good value. Glad I took the tour, although the guy was relatively new and didn't have some knowledge that i thought he would - such as, how was the tower built to withstand earthquakes? There hasn't been a major earthquake here, we were told, although the tower did sustain some cracking in the outer cement rendering in the Kobe (Hanshin) quake of 1995.



A few parting shots





After the castle, I walked outside to the Kokoen gardens, part of my 'combined' ticket. The garden of the local Lord.





The fish are massive - you'd get a decent fillet off them!












By this time my arthritic big toe was giving me real hell - its the ball of my right foot, where you land and pivot off each step. It was shoes off in the castle (as I expected) and stairs down were always going to be tricky, but what I hadn't counted on was the edges of all the downward stairs had a metal grippy strip along them. Ouch x 200 or more!

So I got a taxi back to the station and had a Frappuccino at Starbucks - go on, judge me .

Back to the hotel and rest a while before researching tomorrow's trip to Nara with the help of the concierge. I had found several train routes/connections via JR web site, but the concierge simply looked it up on Google maps directions and everything I needed to know was there!!!

Dinner at Friendly Burger in the station Cheap, and very cheerful guys behind the counter.

 

[RooFlyer]

One thing I forgot about the castle. About half way up I realised there were no emergency (ie fire) exit signs. Sure, obviously you head down the stairs but if its smoky, and with the permanent crowds, how can you not have emergency exit signs? Although if there was a fire at the bottom, everyone above would be done by the smoke pretty quickly. There are water sprinklers throughout.