Around the world in NZ/LH/LX/SA J (and LA/UX/BA/TP/U2/KL Y) - including Chornobyl

[HeavyElectricity]

ZRH-JNB

I had requested a late checkout of the hotel, which was kindly granted for 4pm, but I still arrived very early (using the train again) to the airport. No queues at SWISS business check in, and just a short queue at security using the priority lane.

No gate was shown on my boarding pass or had been announced for my flight, so I followed signs to the lounge. There was a very long queue at the lounge desk, and was then told I was best heading down towards the 'E' gates, as that's where my flight would depart from, with the bonus that there was a brand new (and likely quiet) lounge there.

So I headed through passport control, and then took an underground automated train to E gates, which turned out to be much further away than I thought! Also, animal noises are played during the train trip. You can see how horrendously crowded it was journeying towards the E gates - much better :



This section of the airport was indeed very quiet, including the lounge. I used the Senator lounge rather than the business lounge (United Star Alliance status match coming in useful again). When I first entered, there must have been just a few others there too.

I had no expectations regarding the lounge when arriving, and what I found blew me away. This lounge was fantastic!





There was an elaborate display for Breitling which made me do a double take when I first saw it:



In the dining section, I ate a very tasty pork ragout served by the chef, and had a Swiss blonde beer:


The lounge also has an amazing whiskey club, stocking 214 different whiskeys. The bartender was very friendly, and she organised 5 tastings for me. Great service, and I may have then followed it up with a Gin & Tonic, and a Singapore Sling . It was worth getting to the airport early for!








The outside area was also fantastic, if a little cold on this night:


Some lounge seating also has great views of the apron:



This was easily the best lounge I've ever set foot in!

 

[HeavyElectricity]

ZRH-JNB

Flight: LX288
Aircraft: A340-300
Seat: 11K (J)
Departed: ZRH 27/11/2016 22:54 CET (9mins late)
Arrived: JNB 28/11/2016 10:39 SAST (14mins late)
Duration: 10h 45m

I arrived at the gate to find a passport check 'counter' had set up separately rather than the more usual checking of passports whilst boarding.

My first impressions of seat were that it looked quite old, but it was also quite comfortable. The business class seats on this aircraft were an unusual 2-2-1, 1-2-1 alternating pattern, and it was nice to get a seat which was dual aisle/window whilst also having a buffer to the aisle. It looked like row 8 is missing a window, so I'd avoid that one. The IFE was extremely dated, and there wasn't a large movie selection.





One of the more unusual features of the seat is to be able to adjust the softness/firmness of the seat (which is done using air pressure).



After taking my seat, I was served Champagne/sparkling wine and was offered reading material. Menus were also handed out, and the orders for the main were taken.



No mood or dimmed lighting on this plane! Either the bright fluro lights were on or off.

Disappointed that from the time the safety video started until the seatbelt sign was turned off after take-off, the IFE was completely disabled and ads for SWISS were shown. I was looking forward to viewing the forward facing camera during take-off. However, as it turned out neither the forward or downward camera options seemed to be working anyway (black screens).

No personal ventilation, and also no apparent lavatory use indicators.


Dinner service









Then it was lights out with breakfast served around 2 hours before landing (no hot food option).



Quick disembarkation, but passport control was very slow, with only 3 desks open.

I hadn't planned this part of the trip very well, and finally got organised the week before I left for Lisbon (just a couple of weeks prior to arrival in SA). I split my trip to South Africa in half, with a visit to Cape Town, followed by a visit to a safari lodge. It was at first quite stressful to plan/book (as I prefer being able to clearly compare options and make bookings myself online and get instant confirmation), but most safari options had to be quoted/planned via email communication - but it really wasn't that bad in the end! I was able to book my own domestic SA flights.

 

[HeavyElectricity]

JNB-CPT

Flight: SA353
Aircraft: 737-800
Seat: 19D (Y)
Departed: JNB 28/11/2016 16:30 SAST (30mins late)
Arrived: CPT 28/11/2016 18:39 SAST (34mins late)
Duration: 2h 9m


On arrival at JNB, I was refused use/help of the domestic transfer when asking them to add my Velocity number to the booking (it wasn't listed in the FF partner options on the SA website when I made the booking). The staff member there claimed only Star Alliance airlines have relationships with SA, and that there were no partnerships with any other airlines. So I went through the motions of exiting arrivals and re-checking in at departures. I decided it might be an idea to leave one of the checked bags I was lugging around (just transporting some personal belongings from the UK) at the luggage storage office, which I was a little worried about (as they didn't really explain how it works/pricing), but ended up not being a problem.

Interestingly here security don't require liquids to be removed from hand luggage for domestic flights.

The Johannesburg SA domestic lounge was quite nice, and was very quiet when I first arrived. The lounge staff did acknowledge my Velocity status, and happily welcomed me. They also successfully added my Velocity number to the booking, although they were doubtful it would work, and I had to tell them the 'code' for velocity frequent flyer numbers was the 'VA' prefix. I had a shower, and then something to eat from the great salad bar. The lounge also had a nice view of the runway.

The actual gate area was very busy and there was nowhere near enough seating. A 30m delay was then announced only when boarding was supposed to have already commenced. I was able to use priority boarding with my VA gold membership.

Eventually we started boarding the Star Alliance branded 737. It had 'older' style seating, and had acceptable leg room, but no moveable (raisable) headrests. It was a completely full flight, and included a drinks service (I had cranberry juice), followed by snack (a very tasty chicken and vegetable roll), followed by another water drink service.

I used Uber to get to my hotel at the V&A waterfront. Thought at first it might be difficult to find the ride-share pickup area in the car park, but it ended up being very easy .

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Cape Town

It is well known that Table Mountain dominates Cape Town, but when you see it for the first time in the car to the hotel, it is still mesmerising and more impressive than you imagine.

I stayed at the Queen Victoria Hotel on the V&A waterfront. I'd only booked a couple of weeks before arriving, and wasn't too sure what to expect. It was very nice, if not a little too nice for the likes of me!






I spent the first day exploring the V&A waterfront at a relaxed pace, and organising a trip to Robben Island for a couple of days later.



Some very tasty food is available at the V&A food market - well worth stopping by.

I was fairly tired / jet lagged, so returned to my room in the early evening. From the window/balcony, a lovely sunset behind Table Mountain and Lion's head could be seen. The clouds often formed along the mountain ridge in the evenings.




The following day, I became a bit more adventurous and walked to the centre of Cape Town. I stopped by the colourful Bo-Kaap area, and had a look in the museum.



I then walked to The Company's Garden where I had probably the best salad ever (calamari) at the outdoor restaurant.







After lunch, I used Uber to travel to the Table Mountain cable car...

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Cape Town

The visit to Table Mountain was my favourite part of the Cape Town trip. I was originally contemplating walking up or down Table Mountain (and also Lion's Head / Signal Hill), but after being advised by several people that it was dangerous to go on those walks solo (robberies), I stuck with the cable car instead.

Lower cable-car station:




Upon arrival at the lower cable-car station, it turned out that it was/had been closed due to high winds, but they were advising that it may reopen soon. After about 20 minutes, it was operational again and I was on the second car up, which meant it was peaceful and uncrowded at the summit.

Looking up from the cable car at Table Mountain:


There are a few walks at the summit, and the views from every direction were breathtaking.

View across Cape Town from the upper cable-car station on Table Mountain:


Lion's Head from Table Mountain:


Platteklip Gorge:


View along Hout Bay / the Cape Peninsula and Camps Bay:


The Southern Rock Agama Lizard:


I had a great dinner at a restaurant on the V&A Waterfront, called Karibu. The "Lions head" braai (lamb, venison, beef) with a great local Shiraz (big glasses!), and "Mira" (Apricot sponge) with ice cream and cream for dessert.

 

[Milboo]

Great views. We struck cloud the day we visited...

But my avatar is of a daisie I snapped up top!

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Cape Town

I took the Robben Island trip which is well worth doing. The boat trip over is quite pleasant, and the tour is quite informative - at one point a previous political prisoner gives a talk about the conditions they were kept under

Robben Island Museum / Prison:


Nelson Mandela's former prison cell:


Small penguin colony:


Cape Town and Table Mountain from Robben Island:

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Cape Town

On my final full day in Cape Town, I walked a fair way along the coast to the end of Sea Point. Some nice scenery, and got to watch some paragliders, and also spotted a sea lion on the rocks.

Signal Hill and Cape Town Stadium:


Sea Lion at Mouille Point:


Lion's Head and Paragliders at Sea Point:


Lion's Head:


I had a late lunch back at the V&A waterfront - a fish platter, quite tasty:

 

[HeavyElectricity]

CPT-HDS

Flight: SA1241
Aircraft: CRJ-200
Seat: 7B (Y)
Departed: CPT 03/12/2016 ~09:10 SAST
Arrived: HDS 03/12/2016 ~11:30 SAST (~1h early)
Duration: ~2h 20m

Despite having a SA flight number, this route was actually operated by South African Express. There was a very long queue for check in, with initially only one check in desk open for South African Express, I was the first served by the second desk when it eventually opened. Not sure exactly how the relationship with SA works, but maybe I could have used another SA desk? The check-in agent added my Velocity number to the booking without a problem.

Lounge access was granted with no issues using my Velocity card. The SA domestic lounges are quite nice.

The plane was swapped from a Q400 Dash-8 prop to a CR2 jet. Boarding was called a little early and was by bus gate (not exactly unexpected with this type of aircraft). Pretty great legroom for economy, and I also had an empty seat next to me (my own row!) so I was happy. No adjustable headrests though, so no head support for me.

It's very awkward seeing the obvious disparity between the rich and the poor suburbs from the air as we took-off.

Breakfast croissant served shortly after take-off, followed by a drinks service. Croissant was nicely filled and quite tasty. The cabin crew then disappeared behind the curtain for the remainder of the flight, never to be seen again until landing preparations were started.




Some interesting landscapes that we passed:





Just after 2h in to the flight the captain announced we'd arrive just under an hour early (due to the plane switch).



HDS is a great little airport, and almost has the vibe of operating out of a large house.

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Great views. We struck cloud the day we visited...

But my avatar is of a daisie I snapped up top!

Thanks (and great avatar!). Yes, the cloud can appear quickly and always looked quite dense when they formed - I was lucky - this photo is from just a few hours after I had come back down:

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Kruger National Park Day 1

As the free lodge transport had already been booked by others, I had a private car/driver to take me to Imbali Lodge. The drive was fantastic, and was like a mini private safari in itself. The driver pointed out animals, and would slow down / pull over so I could take some photos.

As soon as we crossed the cattle grid out of the airport, several giraffe could be seen in the game reserve opposite:


I also saw some baby warthogs - but unfortunately didn't get a photo.

We made a brief stop at Orpen Gate so I could buy my park pass, before continuing the drive to the lodge.

Buffalo:


An elephant behind a water tank next to the road:



The creepy looking Marabou Stork:



Wildebeest and Impala:


I arrived at the lodge around 2h30m later, and was very kindly offered lunch (at around 14:00), despite it having already finished. I was also told I'd be able to partake in the afternoon safari, which was to depart at 16:00. The lodge was very nice, and the outside deck area (overlooking a dry river bed - the area was undergoing a drought) provides some great wildlife watching opportunities whilst eating. There is a waterhole constructed on the opposite side of the river to attract thirsty animals.

 

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Kruger National Park Day 1 - Afternoon safari

I'll make a post for each safari as I sort through my photos. If this is too much, let me know and I'll hold off until I've finished sorting them all, and just post the best.

The lodge is located in a concession within Kruger, and therefore the safari vehicles are permitted to drive off-road and at night, which allows some unique viewing opportunities you wouldn't get from driving yourself around Kruger.

Two or three vehicles leave the lodge at the same time, each with its own guide, and each going its separate way. The guides keep in contact via radio so that rarer animal sightings can be shared - and also so that one vehicle can approach a location without too many other vehicles being there.

The start of this first safari was a little grim, with a few skulls and a desiccated corpse pointed out to us! But still all very interesting.

African Buffalo skull:


Desiccated wildebeest carcass:


Hippopotamus skull:



There were, as always, plenty of Impala to be seen:



We then got to see a lion and her cub in the bushes near a dry riverbed:


They then went for a walk to have a drink from a puddle in the riverbed:





It was very impressive to see these animals in the wild. The guide reassured us that we're safe in the vehicle, as long as we keep still. Apparently the lions view the vehicle as one large animal and leave it alone - but movement inside the vehicle allows them to identify the smaller and tastier people! The guide was concerned for these lions as they were looking very skinny (but of course no interference is permitted).

A couple of white rhinos (a mother and a baby) were then spotted munching on the sparse weeds in the dirt. As they continued to 'hoover up' the weeds they got closer and closer to our stationary vehicle - not really raising their heads from the ground, and seemingly oblivious to us. I made this recording (sound removed as people in our group were talking and I didn't want to upload that to the internet):

The baby rhino got so close that it actually knocked its horn on the side of the vehicle:



During each afternoon safari, a break was taken to get out and have a drink (I had a beer) whilst watching the sunset:



On the drive back to the lodge, a honey badger was spotted in the road:


Dinner was great: Watermelon and biltong salad, ostrich steak, and a brownie for dessert.


All-in-all, a pretty exciting first day!

 

[Milboo]

Love the pictures! Nothing beats that feeling of seeing the lions and rhino (and elephants) in the wild for the first time! I got dust in my eyes...

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Kruger National Park Day 2 - Morning safari

The morning safaris start early, and we were off around 05:30. Lot's of bird life - but unfortunately I've forgotten/lost the most of the names (this is where I really regret not sorting my photos sooner).

This bird was perched nicely on the tree as we departed:




Kudu:


Buffalo:


More bones:



I believe this one is a Burchell starling:


We also saw a giraffe, but I didn't get any photos.

Breakfast is served on return the lodge, and then you are left to relax for the late morning and early afternoon.

Whilst reading by the pool, I spotted some baboons at the waterhole on the opposite riverbank, and also a bird drinking from the pool:



The food at the lodge was consistently fantastic - this was lunch (ribs and salad/veggies) from a buffet-style setup:


This was my suite for my stay - great accommodation, with the veranda overlooking the riverbed too. Just a bit scary that you have to be escorted to your room at night:


Whilst there is a wire fence surrounding the lodge, it doesn't stop really determined animals.

A large animal skeleton was in the riverbed:

 

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Kruger National Park Day 2 - Afternoon safari

Zebra:


Kudu:


(Scrub?) Hare:


The beautiful Lilac Breasted Roller:


Elephant:


Southern Brown Hornbill:



We then returned to the same location where we'd spotted the lions on the previous day. This time the lion cubs were alone (the mother was out hunting):

No sunset to be seen this day - the clouds had rolled in, and so instead we watched some quite dramatic lighting whilst have our sundowner drinks:

We then had word that a male lion had been spotted nearby:


He started making calling noises to announce his presence / territory to other lions (a bit annoying others were using their flashes - can't imagine it helped) - I was lucky to catch it on video:

Dinner was again great - A smoked salmon salad starter, followed by Impala steak. Malva pudding for dessert (A South African apricot sponge dessert).

On the way back to my room (whilst being escorted in the dark), we stumbled across a scorpion:

 

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Kruger National Park Day 3 - Morning safari

Still a bit overcast, but there had been no rain despite the cloud and lightning the previous night.

Guinea foul:


Leopard tortoises:


We then got to see an actual leopard!


Like the rhinos, it seemed oblivious to the safari vehicle, and at one point walked past quite close - I managed to capture this on video:

We encountered two giraffe having a (neck) fight whilst standing in the middle of the road:

Whilst out of the vehicle having our morning coffee, one of our group found a burrow of a baboon spider:





And finally, some more wildebeest:

 

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Kruger National Park Day 3

Some more photos of my room taken this day - the accommodation was great:







When walking down the path to the main lodge for lunch, I was startled by some noise in the undergrowth (the possibility of a lion did occur to me) - luckily it was just this curious bushbuck - but it does show that despite the fence, the animals do find ways in!

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Kruger National Park Day 3 - Afternoon safari

As expected, plenty of Impala:


A dung beetle was spotted in the road - not easy to see in the photo, but it's there pushing a ball of dung bigger than itself!



The lion cubs were still hanging out on their own:


But we were incredibly lucky that the mother returned right as we were there. I think this is my favourite video and memory from the safari. I was riding shotgun on this trip, and have to admit I got pretty nervous when she gave us a stare:

And finally another sundowner drink whilst watching the sunset:

 

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Kruger National Park Day 4 - Morning safari

Our guide was very excited when he spotted a Pangolin, apparently it's extremely rare to see one, and he'd only sighted them a couple of times in several years. It was much bigger than I expected:


Two hyena nicely camouflaged against the damper ground - see if you can spot them:


Hippopotamuses:


Giraffe:


Morning coffee:

 

[HeavyElectricity]

Kruger National Park Day 4 - Walking safari

Imbali Safari Lodge mention that you are able to take a walking safari in their in-room services menu (inclusive in the accommodation cost). After not seeing/hearing of anyone doing it, I enquired about it directly. The guides seemed surprised and happy that someone wanted to do it - apparently it doesn't get asked about much. Two other people in my group overheard me asking, and said they were keen to come too .

After seeing what was involved, I felt a bit guilty, as it required a bit of preparation and took place during the usual late-morning downtime before lunch, but the guides seemed more than happy to be heading out. I think a minimum of two guides were required to take us on a walk, but another one came along too.

When I arrived at the meeting point I found my guide from the twice daily driving safaris, Nicholas, loading and preparing a rifle (they don't take them on the driving safaris).




This is when I started to reconsider if this had been a good idea. The guides were always very relaxed when taking us out on drives, but this time they were very serious and gave us clear instructions to be aware of our surroundings, follow direction, and to walk single file - with 2 guides at the front of the line and another one at the rear. Whenever we stopped to take a look at something, the other guides were always on watch, each monitoring a different direction.



Well we didn't end up being attacked or see any animals up close, but it was still a great walk and was very informative - the guides are very knowledgeable. The rifle remained unused .


Buffalo skull up close:


Footprints / tracking:


Another burrow of a baboon spider - this one had carefully arranged leaves around its burrow to disguise it:


Being taught about animal poo!