Back to a sans-virus world of travels! Autumn Colours 2017

[rbjhan]

Now that we are all stuck at home (most of us?)
I can't even begin to plan the next trip, it was supposed to be in Nov this year, but who knows?!

I can't deal with all the virus news anymore So I decided to write a TR for this one...hmmm.....when there was no face masks, no hand sanitisers, and awful lot of tourists!

Trip was simple, sort of.
CX134 to HKG,
HK Express to Fukuoka
Then Fukuoka, Beppu, Nara, Kyoto, Tokyo.
QF80 back to MEL.



Those of you familiar with Japan would know, it was Autumn Colours season.
So this TR will be all about the beautiful colours

 

[rbjhan]

I'm sure everyone is familiar with good old CX....


I do like their A350 a lot.


Starter was meh.


Main was okay. Yep they had the same western starter for everyone, even though I ordered the Chinese main!

 

[rbjhan]

The Peninsula HK




The famous high tea....




I kid you not, there was a loooong queue in the lobby for tea. Luckily hotel guests can make reservations!

 

[rbjhan]

In-town check in counters at Kowloon Station.


HK Express has some Interesting aircraft names

 

[rbjhan]

Kyushu is very very close to South Korea (closer to Seoul than Tokyo!), I didn't realise that before.
In cough there were signs in Korean everywhere, and staff kept shouting (Japanese shout of course) instructions in Korean...this was the only Japanese airport I've been where Koreans outnumbered Chinese!

Booked a business hotel near JR Hakata Station. Nothing special, I don't recommend this one....lots of choices nearby.


There are some historical reasons which I am not going into details, but Hakata and Fukuoka are the same city
The airport is Fukuoka, but JR station is Hakata....don't get confused!

 

[rbjhan]

Dazaifu 太宰府 used to be the administrative centre of Kyushu.
It is about 15km southeast of Fukuoka, perfect for a day trip.
Two ways to get there: either take the Nishitetsu train from Tenjin or direct bus from Hakata bus centre (you can guess where this one is from the name....)

I of course opted for the train.


First glance of autumn colours....


Kyushu National Museum 九州国立博物館 . Pictures not allowed inside the exhibitions sadly...

 

[rbjhan]

God knows how many Tenmangus there are in Japan....but you only need to visit two:
Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto, and Dazaifu Tenmangu 太宰府天満宮.

Tenmangus are decicated to the spirit of Heian period scholar Sugawara Michizane 菅原 道真 aka the deity of education - so very popular with students He died in Dazaifu in exile (before being made a deity), this particular Tenmangu was built on the site of his grave, and the head shrine of all Tenmangus.

The Honden

Lots of good luck charms sold here, said to help with passing exams No use for me but would be good gifts for students...

As I came from Kyushu National Museum, I visited the Tenmangu back to front, and got to Sando last.
*Sando 参道 is the road approaching a shrine or temple, often lined with shops cater to the visitors.
What's so special about this one? Well there is a Starbucks designed by Kengo Kuma 隈 研吾.

Woven wooden lattice might not be for everyone, but I liked it!


More pictures here

スターバックスコーヒー 太宰府天満宮表参道店

太宰府天満宮に至る参道に沿ってたつ、スターバックスコーヒー。間口7.5m奥行約40mの長細い敷地を考慮して、木をななめに組み、光と風が流れるような有機的な空間をつくった。内部空間を覆い尽くすX形の木組みは、60角の1.3m～4mの檜材を約2,000本使用し、材の総延長は4kmにおよぶ。木組みは筋交いとして、建物を支える。全体を組んだ後、ジョイントをダボで縫うことにより、木組みをより硬いものとした。太宰府という歴史ある土地と、現代的な木造技術の遭遇が、他のスターバックスとは異なるユニークな空間を生み出した。

kkaa.co.jp

 

[rbjhan]

There are two other thing noticeable on the Sando.
First is umegaemochi, a traditional dessert with red bean paste inside mochi. Lots of shops sell it, just buy from anyone.
2nd is Ichiran ramen, Dazaifu special edition.

 

[love_the_life]

Sigh
Those days seem so long ago now.

 

[rbjhan]

Sigh
Those days seem so long ago now.

Tell me about it!

 

[rbjhan]

A few more pictures of Fukuoka



Hakata Kira




Mizutaki, local specialty.


Mentaiko, another local specialty

 

[rbjhan]

Originally my plan was to go to Yufuin after Fukuoka.
Unfortunately a few months before the train tracks between had been damaged by flooding. The famous scenic train Yufuin no Mori had been diverted elsewhere, and I didn't want to take a highway bus. So switched to Beppu instead.

JR Kyushu runs many special trains targeting tourists. Apart from Yufuin no Mori, I was interested in Aso Boy, A train, Kawasemi Yamasemi....but I ended up taking SONIC to Beppu.

Not sure what the headrest was all about


You can't ride a train without ekiben.



Unfortunately the tilting mechanism on this trian didn't agree with me First time ever I felt sick on a train!

 

[rbjhan]

Beppu別府 is one of Japan's most famous onsen town. The Jigoku (hells) are probably its top tourist attraction.
IMHO though, viewing onsens are no good at all what good to look at one if you can't soak in it?!

Much more important to find a good ryokan

Seikai was booked after much research. It's located not in the centre of Beppu, nor close to the Jigokus. Not close to anything really, except for the beach sandbath (we'll get to that later). But I liked their onsen, plus reviews on IKYU were very good.

And this, is the view from my balcony.


Living room.


Bedroom


Balcony


Bathroom


And private onsen! Yep that's why I decided on this one

 

[rbjhan]

Time for a laugh.
There were 4 pairs of slippers in the room, each with their own specific use. Any guess?

 

[rbjhan]

Overall I really liked Seikai. Not in my alltime top 3 ryokans but close.
A few more pictures.

Lobby


Breakfast

 

[rbjhan]

The next day was raining, Mt Tsurumi became a no go....went to the nearby port city of Oita.
Why? For OPAM, Oita Prefecture Art Museum.




The artwork here was nothing special, I came for the architecture.

 

[rbjhan]

Did I mention there's a sand bath near Seikai? I think I did.
I LOVE onsen. The yield of hot water in Beppu is said to be the highest in Japan. Onsen can be found all over the city, even on the beach. Some very smart people invented this sand bath. Basically your whole body (well not the head of course!) is buried in the sand which was heated by the onsen.

Cost about 1500 Yen including Yukata and towels.
I changed into the Yukata then went to the sand pit, staff spoke enough English.
Lie down, and be covered in sand up to the neck. It was quite warm and very relaxing....I almost felt asleep.

Only picture was this one when I was waiting my turn.


Very unique experience, if you happen to be in Beppu I highly recommend.

 

[rbjhan]

Japan is a country of islands. Naturally there are many ferries linking those islands. I had been eyeing those ferries for some time, finally had the opportunity to try one.
From Beppu, there's Ferry Sunflower to Osaka Nanko overnight via the Seto Inland Sea. I was going to Nara anyways so it was perfect.
Save one night hotel and as well as the travel time. You can even book tickets online! Don't laugh, Japan might be a high tech place but there are also many things make you feel like stuck in the 90s....

Ferry departs from Beppu Kanko Port.




I booked a inside single room (no bathroom), 14000 Yen.


The cheapest option was called Tourist class.


Sitting areas dotted throughout the ship.

 

[rbjhan]

Lots of vending machines.


Ice cream and instant noodles.


Even hot food.


I went to the restaurant. Both dinner and breakfast were buffet style, reasonably priced. About 1500 for dinner and 600 for brekkie iirc...


There was also a large public bath onboard. NO pictures I'm afraid...

All in all, this was a fantastic experience. I'm not a fan of cruises but one night onboard a ferry I can definitely do again.

Next morning, Osaka in the distance...

 

[rbjhan]

From Osaka Nanko, I took the metro to Bentencho, then switched to a JR train, about one hour later, arrived at JR Nara Station.
Most visitors to Nara are day trippers from Osaka/Kyoto. I decided to stay overnight mainly for two reasons, first there was a restaurant I wanted to try. 2nd I managed to book the (then) newly opened Onyado Nono Nara.

It was located right next to the JR station.



The Onyado Nono Chain is the Japanese version of Dormy Inn, belongs to the same group.
Tatami mat throughout the hotel, shoes off at the entrance. These are shoe lockers.


My single room.


Small lounge outside the onsen.


Signature free ramen in the evening.


Breakfast next morning.


Readers of my other TRs would know I like Dormy Inns, Onyado Nono is even better with the Japanese touches. There are only a few in the country though. Osaka Namba, Asakusa, Nara, Toyama...I know they are building a new one in Kyoto, hopefully more will come.