Back to a sans-virus world of travels! Autumn Colours 2017

[craven morehead]

Back in 2014 when I first visited Kyoto, I went to Arashiyama and took this picture.

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That was Hoshinoya Kyoto.

I had been wanting to stay there ever since. Finally the time was right.

Beautiful colours!

 

[rbjhan]

As mentioned before, it was freezing that year!


Good thing about being that cold was, almost everywhere went into peak colour earlier than usual.


Next up, all the best colours in Kyoto.

 

[rbjhan]

Arashiyama

The colours at Arashiyama were at their best when I visited. That also meant it was packed to the rafters.
This was the bamboo grove...


I didn't take pictures on the main street near Togetsukyo bridge, basically you were just being pushed forward by the wave....

I quickly decided Tenryuji was a no go, and went straight to Jojakkoji.



!!!

 

[rbjhan]

Nison-in







Had matcha and wagashi here.

 

[rbjhan]

Nagaoka is to the southwest of Kyoto, both JR and Hankyu trains can take you there in less than one hour.

Komyoji

 

[rbjhan]

Nagaoka Tenmangu
This is one of those Tenmangus that you don't need to visit
I came coz it was right next to the Hankyu Tenjin station...( I chose Hankyu instead of JR because Hankyu Karasuma station was right next to my hotel in Kyoto)

There's a small Momiji (maple leaves) garden just below the shrine.



The main shrine.




Spectacular colours everywhere!




Even though I went to Nagaoka for Komyoji, I ended spending more time in Tenmangu. What a pleasant surprise!

 

[rbjhan]

Tofukuji is a famous spot for autumn colours, especially the view from its iconic Tsutenkyo bridge.



The valley below Tsutenkyo bridge is full of maple trees, hence this wonderful view.


Warning: Tofukuji gets extremely busy this time of the year. I suggest arrive as early as possible.
Otherwise you'll see the crowds like this:

No kidding, I thought Arashiyama was bad, nothing compared to here!


And this was the queue to enter the grounds. At least it was in Japan, everyone just moved in orderly silence!



Another picture from Tsutenkyo bridge taken in mid Nov a few years before, when it was only maybe 30%.
You can see the difference....

 

[rbjhan]

Nanzenji
Colour here was amazing as well.


The crowds too


Murin-an, just next to Nanzenji.

 

[craven morehead]

Nanzenji
Colour here was amazing as well.
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The crowds too
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Murin-an, just next to Nanzenji.
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Not a fan of the huge crowds but the scenery is simply spectacular! So I guess I might have to man up and do it at least once

 

[rbjhan]

Not a fan of the huge crowds but the scenery is simply spectacular! So I guess I might have to man up and do it at least once

TBH after this trip I vowed not to be in Kyoto during peak season ever again...
But it was worth it, that's why everyone came to see it.

There are ways to get around it, a bit.
Arriving early is one.
Another is to visit the lesser known temples.
Places to avoid in autumn: Kiyomizudera, Ginkakuji (these two really should be avoided all times all year round), Eikando, Nanzenji, Tofukuji, Kinkakuji....

 

[rbjhan]

Shogunzuka将軍塚
Probably my favourite places in all Kyoto.
It is located on top of Mt Higashiyama, transport can be tricky. During peak season (meaning Sakura, Koyo, Golden Week, New Year) there was a Keihan bus runs hourly between Keihan Sanjo station and Shogunzuka, it is not covered by the City Bus one day pass, or any passes that I know of...Other times taxi might be the only way.

* I hear there is a hiking trail behind Chorakuji that leads up to Shogunzuka as well. However can't vouch for it.



What's so special about this place?
An observation deck overlooking Kyoto.

 

[rbjhan]

Back when the observation deck was newly opened, there was a glass teahouse on it.
Sadly no more.

 

[rbjhan]

Let's get back to the restaurants...

Tempura Matsu
As featured in "Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan's Food Culture".


It is located on the outskirts of Kyoto, next to the Katsura river.


Tempura to start.


Sashimi, the squid was yummm


Soup

 

[rbjhan]

More tempura.


Udon.


There were a few pictures that I made a complete mess of unfortunately....It was 10 courses in total.
This is not a traditional Kaiseki restaurant. I love the modern take on Japanese cuisine. The young chef showed great skills and imagination (his father recently retired), this is one that I would love to go back.

 

[rbjhan]

Fresa Inn at Shijo Karasuma


Kyoto hotel prices during November could be astronomical.
I booked this one about 10 months (!) in advance, managed to keep it below 10K Yen per night....
Room was small but enough for one. I don't recommend it for two though. (Note that Japanese business hotels sell semi-double rooms for two, those are the same as single rooms in most cases)


Suitcase was sent from Fukuoka.

 

[rbjhan]

Restaurant #3
Niku Miyoshi
Back in 2017 it didn't have the Michelin star, and was easier to book...

It is located in Gion.


6 counter seats.





Soup


Gyutan Kobujime (beef tongue marinated between layers of Konbu)


Wagyu Sashimi

 

[rbjhan]

White miso soup


Soba


Crab, caviar and beef consomme jelly.


Shabu shabu

 

[rbjhan]

Steak
*As far as I could tell, everything else were the same, prices varied based on the cut of beef you chose.


Rice with beef and konbu soup.


Ice cream and red beans.


This was the best meal I've had anywhere in the world. Simple as that.
Also the most expensive
I've been thinking about going back, but it's getting very tricky in terms of reservations, we shall see...

 

[rbjhan]

More food!

Unagi


Set meal from Yayoiken, my favourite Japanese fast food chain.


Yakitori




Healthy Gyudon from Sukiya - rice replaced by tofu.

 

[rbjhan]

Final pictures of Kyoto before we move onto Otsu.