Bass Strait to the Black Sea.

[docjames]

Again, great photos.

Disaster - mrs.dr.ron missed out on the shopping from the Bedoins!

 

[drron]

OK back to the land of cheap internet.Prices on board ship meant it was not a good idea to continue a picture intensive TR.
We walked slowly back up the Siq and to the gate where Wael picked us up to go off to the Dead Sea.He told us the temp had reached 42C.No wonder wedrank all 6 of the bottles of water we had taken and bought 4 more.We set off on the King's Way.Obviously a lot of wind here but the views are fantastic-

And then our first views of the Dead Sea as Wael's trusty Sunny speeds us on our way-

But even in this hostile environment there are signs of agriculture-

Next-the drive continues.

 

[drron]

It's now that we had the benefit of local knowledge-Wael took us on a detour from the King's Way past a village where traditional houses centuries old are still used-there were no signs at the turn off.We did see some beautiful prickly pear as well-

After getting back on to the main road and beginning our descent to the Dead Sea Wael produced some apricots for us when we stopped at a roadside coffee stall.He bought us coffes as well which seemed to please me though I think it was the apricots that had the old taste that modern apricots at home have lost-

However the view shows that we still have some way to go-

 

[steptoe]

.But I hope you are not getting bored with the photos.

Not at all! As others have said, Jordan now on the bucket list. Another fantastic TR.

 

[drron]

As we descend to the Dead Sea the countryside reminds us a lot of Arizona,Utah in the US Southwest-

As we got lower there were lush bullrushes in the stream-

Then down at Dead Sea level(below sea level) the agriculturs was amazing,even bananas-

So next we finally get to the Dead Sea.

 

[drron]

Driving along the shore there are some great views-

Then we came to an old bridge that people now use to go down and picnic by a stream-

Finally we got to Amman beach,there was a problem with double parking-

So now it was time to have a float-that next.

 

[drron]

Now here is where I made a mistake.The temperature was 39C and the "beach"was rocks.I did not bring along a pair of cheap shoes I could throw away.Add to this the fact I have a peripheral neuropathy so sensation is reduced I ended up with blistered feet.Just as well we had programmed a rest day for tomorrow.
Amman Beach is a "public"beach.Foreigners pay 16JOD to get in,Jordanians just 1.But there are change rooms,showers,a restaurant and a pool-surrounded by women in Burkinis.
So here I am-

Once again on the way back we are brought drinks by Wael.We also see Mt.Nebo where we were yesterday-

We get back to the Sheraton just after 1800-tired,exhausted but happy and feeling today was good value.We go straight to the room and get room service-Mrsdrron has lamb cutlets-5 large cutlets with fries and veggies.I have a local mixed grill-beef,chicken and lamb on skewers plus fries and veggies and with 10% service fee plus 16% tax the bill comes to $50-great value for meal service but the food was also very good and delivered in 20 minutes.We also had a bottle of Chilean SB which set us back another $60.
Early to bed and mrsdrron rubs pawpaw ointment on my rather poorly feeling feet-a new acronym for those physicians here which is part now of the DD for Marche au Petit Pas-FFFW syndrome-Failed Fijian Fire Walker.

When I wake on Thursday my left foot isn't too bad but my right is still blistered-at least I can move slowly so we decided to spend the day by the pool-really not a bad place to recover-

About 1430 I remembered I had to change some money-hotel rate was awful but 2 banks across the road.The first was the Arab Bank-could not find a door except for one which said Arab Bank Training School-went inside and absolutely no one around despite making some loud noises.So as fast as I could-about 18 month old's pace-I went next door to HSBC.See a sign for foreign exchange and line up.I found out that the DYKWIA syndrome is just as common in Jordan as several locals go straight to the head of the Queue.finaly get to the teller-it is now after closing time.I am informed by the woman I can only change money if I am an HSBC account holder-ask her where the nearest money changer is and she says the Arab Bank-yes but it's closed.She just shrugs her shoulders.

So I struggle outside and up in the distance there are signs that suggest there is a chance of a money changer-Burger King,Popeyes.Probably about a km away and have to cross several main roads.Fortunately I had been observant-as soon as a half break you just start walking and the traffic slows.However at the last road there is no break.About 5 women are also waiting to cross so eventually I did what adventurous Jordanians do-defiantly put up my hand as a stop sign and started walking-the women followed.As if by magic the cars parted and we all reached the other side unscathed.Best of all behind those signs was a mall and there was the Western Union sign.So off I se arriving there ~1535.And yes the agency closed between 3 and 4pm.I wasn't going to limp all the way back so had to find somewhere to sit in airconditioning if possible.Finally I saw the Golden arches and a big sign for a McArabia.Now I knew how to spend the time.Walked in and went up to this lovely young lady in her Burqua and ordered an Iced Caramel Latte and a McArabia-there was though a little cultural gap and it probably took me about 5 minutes to finally get the order right.It came to 4.03JOD.I got out 4JODS in note and she shook her head.So I handed over a 5JOD note and she gave me the change-1JOD in coin-WTF.

So back to the Western Union and I am first in at 1600.Walk up to the teller who tells me to take a seat-5 employees all drinking coffee,chatting and counting notes.Finally at 4.09 I am called over and hand him 200 Euros-he says What's this for?And I actually had to explain to him I wanted some JODs.What was in that coffee?
Then back to the hotel battling the heat,traffic and my feet.About half way I pass an older woman in nearly a full Burqua-mouth,nose and eyes showing.She aims a spit ball just in front of my feet-fortunately I am walking very slowly.Finally back at the hotel and head straight for the lounge and down a couple of coldies.Decide to have loung food for dinner as I really dont want to walk anywhere.Besides it is going to be an early night as we are going to be picked up at 0830 to go to the airport.
Just to end the print outside our room that mrsdrron really liked-

So next off to IST.

 

[drron]

Just before talking about our trip to Istanbul a few words on Jordan.We stayed here because I was on an award ticket and we had a few extra days.However I loved the place and would highly reccomend a visit.Great for all those tied to OW so can use it as a stopover to where ever.The Roman ruins are as good as anywhere-though we didn't get to Jerash which is said to be even better.The Jordanians in general are very friendly-and they do genuinely seem to like Australians.
So back to the TR.An easy drive to the airport and we said our goodbyes to Wael-we en joyed his company.He obviously trusted us and didn't even count the money we handed over-and no we didn't stiff him.In to the Royal Crown check in-physically separate from the Y checkin with it's own Immigration and security.Only funny thing was they took your checked luggage from you as you entered and weighed it whilst you went to the desk-seats provided and as well as giving you your BPs also got your luggage tags which you took back to the front door to be put on your bags.FYI there were notices at check in to ask for airport upgrades.
Straight to Crown Lounge.In front of us is a fellow trying to get in on his Amex-unfortunately for him it is cardmember only so he has to pay 30JOD to get his partner in.We go straight through but dont feel like anything except a cappucino.There is obviously a Jordanian Celeb sitting 2 tables up from us as every woman in the place comes up to get their photo taken with him.

We left the lounge at the at the advertised boarding time but had to go through another security check before getting to the gates.Unfortunately a long line as a Jordanian sporting team and hangers on were leaving as well.Show your passport before you go through security.Left my computer in my bag as well as 2 bottles of water from the lounge-nothing said but I was ordered to take my belt off.Although I didn't set the bell's ringing but for the second time in the morning I goit a pat down-I guess grey haired some what overweight guys are attractive in this part of the world.Finally through security and the boards are showing our flight as final call.We were going from gate 6D-the gates for remotely parked aircraft.Had to go through another passport check before getting to the gate and we could see the line at 6D getting shorter-rush to gate,show our BPs and told-no this is the Beirut flight,yours is next.

So another 10 minutes and they call our flight-business class only.8 of us go out and there is a small bus waiting-great I thought we get our own bus to the plane.Then the fellow outside stops us and tells us to wait-sends the small bus to 6C and tells all the pax on a large bus at 6C to get off and sends it back to us.So we hop on-at least we all get a seat before the mob arrives.2 busses for the approx 160 pax-we were packed in like whitebait.Whitebait however wouldn't have as much odour.
When we get to the plane it is Rafferty's rules so we are amongst the last to board.There are 3 fellows with ill fitting suits already in J but a 4th gets on from the second bus and orders the fellow in 1B to go down the back.Unfortunately as boarding proceeds many Jordanian flies decide they need an IST holiday.Fruit juice only pre take off.

RJ165. AMM-IST. ETD-1120. Push back-1124. take off-1127
ETA-1340. landed-1329. At gate-1334.
Service is by an E-195.We have seats 1J,H.

So the obligatory foot shot,the menu and the food-

Mrsdrron thought the glasses would fit in well at home-

The white wine was a Jordanian SB but much better than others we had tried.My lamb dish was visually unappealing but tasted OK.Mrsdrron's chicken was a little overcooked.
After lunch I had the need to visit the loo.Had to wait a few minutes as an FA had the coughpit door open talking to the pilots.The guy in 1B though probably had his eyes on me.The service overall was good,seats were comfortable-at least as good as QF domestic J.

Next-arrival in IST.

 

[drron]

We are first off the plane and sprint(as well as I can) to the visa line.The price has gone up again for Aussies-thanks Wayne.All up it takes us an hour to get through the Visa and Immigration queues.Many are being sent back from the Immigration because they dont have visas.One group is an Arabian fellow in his dishdash,4 women in full burquas and 4 children.We were intrigued as it took us 20 minutes to get to a desk whilst he was arguing that he shouldn't have to go back and get a visa-he was still at it as we left.
By the time we get through Immigration our bags are circulating on the carousel.They are covered in dust and the locks are not in place.When we get to the hotel we notice that the zipper ends have been cut off as we find one in the luggage.Everything has been rummaged through but nothing missing as only clothes inside.So here is what the new Antlers look like-

Not a great introduction to Turkey.As we exit a fellow literally tears our bags out of our hands saying taxi?He then takes us 20 metres to the next cab at the rank and demands a tip!Well I had 2TLs in coin as I changed some money before exiting.I gave him the 2 coins and he says-no.Paper money.Well I resisted the temptation to give him a 1JOD note and just said-no paper money.He was not happy,neither was I.

Fortunately the taxi driver was honest,used the meter,took the most direct route as we had looked up on Google maps so he got a good tip.Arrive at the Doubletree Old Town about 1520 and they insist we have booked 2 rooms-as this had been booked about 10 days out this was obviously wrong and fortunately we had the printout.Booking in Mrsdrron's name as she has the comped diamond status.Booked a standard room and that was what we got.Also fronting the main road so very noisy-including the Call To Prayers starting at 0430 and last call 2330.Not really impressed with Hhonors again-mrsdrron has had 2 bookings-1 exec floor,1 no upgrade whereas I now have had 3 SPG bookings this year with all getting suite upgrades.Maybe I am just too arrogant!

We do get coupons for breakfast each day and free internet-though you had to log in each day with a new user name and password.
Next-the start of our time in Istanbul.

 

[drron]

After unpacking we walked around the local area.Found a nice little cafe just down from the DT and bought some baklava and Turkish delight.However not much in the way of restaurants in the immediate surroundings of the hotel so we eat in the hotel's restaurant as we got a 10% off coupon.Walked in just after 1900 and no other customers.Staff are standing around chatting and it is a couple of minutes before anyone decides to come over.The Terrace restaurant is on the top floor with slight views of the Sea of Marmara.Service was very iffy as was the food.For 2 mains and a bottle of wine after the 10% was taken off was 200TL($110).My dish was described as Stuffed Chicken breast with Mushroom Risotto and Apricot sauce.It was 4 small pieces of chicken wrapped around spinach sitting on a bed of rice covered in mixed veggies plus occasional pieces of mushroom.This was then covered by Gravox with 4 dried apricot halves.Not reccomended.

Saturday and we set off walking just to get the lay of the land.Walked down to Sultanahmet-it was downhill.The temperature was already over 30C and it was very sticky.As we got to the tram stop at Sultanahmet we got our first views of the Blue Mosque-impressive.

Though I noticed other things that inspired me-

Though it was way too hot for corn or roasted chestnuts.We got to the Hagia Sophia and although only 0930 the lines were long and bus after bus were dropping off groups from a Costa cruise ship.So we continued walking down the hill-

We came to a park running alongside the walls of the Topkapi palace which was a nice refuge from the heat and crowds allowing a little people and nature watching.

Even views to the Asian side-

We watched many people go up and rub the knees,hands and shoes of this statue which of course was Ataturk-

More of the first day next.

 

[jetlagger]

Fabulous.. & Photography is first class..That certainly is a different part of the world.. Many thanks for sharing & wish you both continued safe & adventurous frolics..

 

[drron]

In the park we found a little outdoor cafe that had great views over the Bosphorus.You pay for the view with a small Coke~$3.30.

Refreshed we then walked down to the foreshore.I was in 2 minds whether to get this ferry-

We also saw the reasons for the large queues,I would be comfortable on only 1 of these-

Then there were the mosques-4 in one picture-

We then walked around a few small streets before we came to the Spice Market-

More to come.

 

[turtlemichael]

Great trip report! I am looking forward to your cruise reports which might be boring to others. The cruise ship pics above have one of the Celebrity monoliths in it and a Windstar I think? Do you know what the smaller ship aft of the Celebrity one is? Enjoy your time in the Black Sea.

 

[KitKat]

Love your trip reports. Was in IST over in April, if you are still there try to take a ferry to the Asian side and have a lovely sunset view of Istanbul. Also if interested in a special occasion dinner - we enjoyed Mikla - celebrated a friend's birthday here. Good food, wine, service and views

 

[drron]

Actually back in civilisation again-Bangkok!The TR will probably continue tomorrow.tonight is some free wine and soft shell crab in the Living Room at the SGS.
Enjoyed the cruise immensely Turtlemichael,certainly reccomended.
As to Istanbul-we found we are more Asian orientated.Just us.

 

[Katie]

Are they still selling Turkish cough in the spice market?
I have fond memories of the baklava shops ...

 

[drron]

Well katie I was offered a tea you will see in the second photo that I was promised would keep me up all night but I declined as I need my sleep!The first photo shows both some bakclava and Turkish delight.But bakclava can be found in many Mediterranean countries and was equally as good in Jordan.

Of course we had a few tastes and did buy some Turkish Delight and Pashmak-much cheaper than home.Then we went outside and yo get good views of the New Mosque-

Also outside the Spice market was a regular market selling all types of things including the latest medical advances-

Yes leeches.
After that we walked back towards the main tourist area and had some desserts + lemonade at what is rated by TA the number 2 restaurant in Istanbul-Hafiz Mustafa 1864.We shared a traditional rice pudding and a traditionally made kazandibi-just a warning if you are a vegetarian dont have this dish in good Turkish restaurants.The classical recipe is to boil down a chicken breast as the agglutinating agent-in the west cornflour will be used.Both were delicious.Personally I think it is a comment on Turkish cuisine has a Dessert restaurant at Number 2 and a coffee shop at number 1 on Trip advisor.You look over the square and saw the tram that would take us back to the Doubletree-

The trams are great and cost 2 TLs($1.10).
Still more to come.

 

[drron]

After a bit of a rest we walked to the closest reccomended restaurant to the DT-Antakya,not far from the Grand Bazaar.It is rated number 13 on TA.However we regarded this as fair average quality,not outstanding.Mrsdrron had the lamb chops and I the mixed kebab.We shared a hummous to start with and with a small pot of house white and a large beer it came to 124 TLs(~$70).

Certainly beat the DTs restaurant and the meats were nice.Throughout the first day virtually every local thought we were German.however the waiter here was convinced I looked like Donald Sutherland.Mrsdrron thought he needed a referral to an optometrist.
Walking back from dinner was a nice sunset-

But after ~17km walking we just went to sleep when we got back to the hotel.

Sunday.Once again an early breakfast as the plan was to visit the Blue Mosque then the Hagis Sophia and Topkapi Palace.The breakfast buffet at the DT certainly was a little strange however enough nice things to be enjoyable.Things such as the scrambled eggs coming with tomato and capsicum mixed through it,the wide array of cheeses and dips.However the fruit selection was great with fresh cherries and apricots every day.Also Quince-and it tasted very nice unlike the quinces of my childhood.
So off we went to the Blue Mosque arriving at ~0800.The building and courtyards are grand-

But there our plan failed.For the summer months tourists are only allowed entry after 9am with another 2 hours over lunch when it is closed.So off it was to the Hagia Sophia.We had planned to get there early but now we were really early though the line had already started.

That will be next.

 

[drron]

We got to the gates of the Hagia Sophia ~0830 but still weren't first in line.By 0845 the lines were much longer-however if you have prebought your ticket or have a Museum Card-reccomended and 72TL for 72 hours,you can access the much shorter line for those with tickets.And Turtlemichael you were right the day before was a Celebrity ship-checking my notes this was the Costa hordes.
Now the beauty of getting in early is that you can take in the atmosphere before the hordes descend-the cruise ship groups seemrd to go off to the Blue Mosque first and then come back to the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace.

Do take the stairs to the top level-a really different perspective.
Still more to come.

 

[drron]

The Hagia Sophia was first a Christian cathedral but remodelled as a mosque when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople.We would see more Hagis Sophia's in our later travels.But some more pictures including the Blue Mosque in the distance and seeing the first groups appear-

Next off to the Topkapi palace.