Belated TR: Middle East and Central Europe Dec 22-Jan23

[Seat0B]

This is my first attempt at a trip report because I find myself with a lot of time on my hands at the moment, unlike my real life when I always mean to post something, but somehow never do. So I thought I would write up my trip to Dubai to see Seat Son, and the side trip of Central Europe we added.


Backgound, and Getting to Melbourne to Check In
The main purpose of the trip was to have an extended post COVID lockout visit to see Seat Son who lives in the UAE. We did not intend to go to Central Europe, but in the end the way the fares worked out it was a no brainer.

So I will start with fares. We started looking in March 22. At first I looked for J award flights between SYD and DXB or MEL and DXB. We were willing to travel any time in November or December 2022. There were none.

So then I looked at paid fares SYD or MEL-DXB return. These were all QF codeshare on EK metal as I wanted to get enough SC to maintain WP status. The SYD-DXB flights were ridiculously priced at around $12,000 per person return. MEL-DXB was a little cheaper at around $10,500 return per person. From a previous experience, I got to wondering if we should consider a "side trip" to somewhere in Europe. We did that in 2027-2018 and it was actually cheaper to book a multi-city flight to Rome (FCO) with long stop overs in DXB in both directions. So I ran that search again, but no luck, the prices went up to over $14k per person.

Next I started to play with other potential destinations. In the end, we decided on CBR-MEL-DXB-MUC-BUD-DXB-MEL-CBR which came in at $10,600 - that's right, only $100 extra for a J side trip to Europe over just flying to DXB and back. Bit of a o brainer really. The same route only departing from SYD was $12,500 per person, so we could not justify the almost $4000 extra we would have paid to leave via SYD, despite the inconvenience of the MEL departure. Needing to connect to/from CBR meant that we had to stay overnight at the Melbourne Park Royal at the cost of $360 per night - still leaving us with a saving of about $3000 which went a long way towards paying for our Europe side trip. We decided to make a silk pure out of this sow's ear, and left home early to spend the day enjoying Melbourne and the facilities of the hotel. As Mr Seat 0A is a huge aviation buff, I stumped up the extra for a runway view room, and he spent several happy hours with his binoculars and his phone camera, Flight Radar 24 and an ATC app running just watching the traffic. We had an average, acceptable dinner at a fair price in the Hotel bistro as we did not want to have a late night going into Melbourne for undoubtedly better options.

The room itself was huge. We had two heavily laden luggage trolleys as we were taking a bunch of homewares, alcohol and other Australiana to Seat Son and we made full use of our combined 116kg luggage allowance by checking in with 115.6 kg. Drat, there was room for one more pack of Arnotts Shapes!! Both trolleys just wheeled into the room and did not block anything. The bathroom was pretty 1990s, but fine for our purposes. The block out curtains and sound proofing were excellent and we slept as well as you can when you have to get up at 0300 to head over to check in.

Photo of our bags:



Plane spotting from our room

 

[RooFlyer]

That IS an impressive amount of luggage!!

 

[Seat0B]

That IS an impressive amount of luggage!!

even the check in clerk for Emirates was impressed at the way we had maximised our allowance!

Edit remove stray header

 

[Seat0B]

Departure Day Tuesday 29 November 2022

0300 wake up was rude AF. I am not a morning person, and in hindsight, I was beginning to feel the exhaustion effects of my as yet unknown and undiagnosed leukaemia, which made it even worse. Mr Seat 0A had to do more than his fair share to get us up and out the door. Plan was check in, through security and immigration and then to the lounge. We were very glad of our choice of hotel at this ungodly hour of the morning as it was a simple 5 minute saunter with all the bags over the elevated passageway straight to the departure terminal.

Check in was easy with WP status and J tickets - able to use the First Class check in. The line for standard check in was very long. So we were through and relieved of all the bags in double quick time, with everything done by 0315 . Then the wait began. Probably could put this one down as a travel mistake because immigration and security did not open until 0330. There was a large build up of people by then, absolutely no crowd control and certainly nothing like a fast track or premium pax lane. It was a total free for all. Next time, I think I would wait and make a slightly later check in to avoid this footy scrum. Anyway, it moved along and we were into the EK Lounge at Gate 10 with breakfast done and dusted by 0430.

The EK Lounge was very pleasant, but I didn't think it was as good as QF First Lounge in SYD (my only other point of reference) or the EK F Lounge in DXB. The ambiance was lovely with nice lighting, little clusters of seating and a working fountain providing soothing white noise. My morning brain wasn't working well and I did not remember to take any photos. Breakfast buffet was extensive, plates cleared quickly, coffee from a self service machine was perfectly adequate at that time of day. The lounge started to fill up around this time so we were glad to have been in early when there was a choice of seats and better selections available on the buffet which did not seem to be replenished as fast as it was depleted by guests. There were several very unruly children in the lounge which was very annoying, and no one - staff or parents did anything to stop the running around and literal jumping on chairs and tables. Not very impressed by this aspect at 0430. I'm sure the kids were tired and grumpy too, but .

Boarding QF 8409/EK409 A380 was prompt at 0530, priority boarding happened very smoothly. Settled in, given a choice of water (still, sparkling), an exotic juice mix or champagne as pre-boarding drink and a hot towel. I had the bubbles. Always nice to start off that way. Flight was very smooth - 14 hours is long enough to really enjoy all the facilities, which we did. We had a middle seat so we could sit together, but the privacy screen was a bit annoying in our context. Good selection of IFE - watched Mrs Harris goes to Paris and the whole bos set of White Lotus. Went to the on board bar and enjoyed a Virgin Mojito. Bar tender was very friendly and gave us a bunch of good tourism suggestions. Alcoholic drinks were freely available, but I just didn't feel like drinking at that point.



Meals were nice - standard Middle eastern fare. First is Mezze plate starter.



Next is main course - lamb something or other with za'atar- moist and tasty


Then breakfast



Arrived on time and though immigration, luggage, customs and transit on the driverless train in about 45 minutes. All our bags arrived! Our bags were not searched - maybe we looked like experienced Emiratis with the haul that we had




Collected by Seat Son who fortunately has a Pajero so managed to squeeze in all the bags. The Winter temperature in Dubai was 34 degrees but with a very weak looking sun low in the sky. It's a bit discombobulating that it looks like winter, but is still very warm.

After a refreshing shower, a cuppa and a bit oif a catch up, we walked over to the Nakheel Mall to activate and top up the DXB Tourist SIM given to us at the airport with 1 GB for first 24 hours included. Paid AED 49 ($25) for a plan to cover our first stay of 2 weeks, then home for dinner and an early night. Both awake at 0330, but forced ourselves to stay in bed and sleep until 0600.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Wednesday 30 November 2022
Started the day with a swim in the pool at Seat Son's apartment on The Palm. It was quite tepid. We did attract a few stares as the locals think it's cold. It was 28 degrees!



Then we dropped Seat Son to his work in the Dubai International Finance Centre precinct so we could have his car for the day. We parked in his work spot and planned to explore the shopping and hospitality area near the DIFC. His work has a very fancy and complicated automatic car lift and storage system which was a bit intimidating.

We explored the DIFC Gate Village and Gate Avenue, which is an upmarket area designed to cater to the expat business clientele and has a lovely atmosphere. Many UK chains there - Costa, Caffe Nero, Pret etc. Very modern architecture. And Emiratis having the traditional long coffee break and catch up.



Then we trepidatiously retrieved the car and drove to Dubai mall which felt very familiar from our earlier visits to Dubai. There was a new Eating Area called the Time Out Mall and we dined very nicely on international street foods (Vietnamese Rice Paper Rolls, Chicken shawarma, Portuguese tarts and coffee. Then we just wandered the mall goggling at all the Emirati families (many multiple wife groups) and the expensive designer shops. It was very hot when we left - 40 degrees in early winter!



Dinner was at the Beach Club Sea Breeze.



Another relatively early night, which is not easy in Dubai, as it is a most nocturnal society. People literally go out for coffee at 10 or 11 pm!!

Edit: typo

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Thursday 1 December 2022

Had a sleep in to 0730 . Then another swim in the pool and coffee on the terrace of Seat Son's apartment. The view over the Palm and the Marina is awesome. I christened the building in the photo the "lego block tower" - no idea of its actual name. Apparently it is divisive, but I personally love it. Notice the sand/dust haze, which cleared by the second photo.







Next it was out to brunch to meet Seat Son's GF for the first time. They'd been dating for a year at this point. She brought along her younger sister who was just finishing Yr 12 and is quite a shy person. Anyway, the poor GF was struck down by a dreadful migraine and had to leave for a quiet dark room (hope it wasn't the stress of meeting us), so Seat Son took her back to his place and left the poor little sister with us! We managed to get her talking though, and we had quite a nice time. These girls have been raised in Dubai as their parents moved here for work before the little one was born. So they are quite the Dubai locals.

Dinner was a BBQ, so we went out for some supplies - but Crowds!! Traffic!!! Parking!!!! and our simple tasks ended up taking several hours, by which time the GF was well recovered and quite embarrassed.

Today was a great getting to know you day, and a nice insight into the lifestyle of Seat Son.

Today's step count was 16,450. Yesterday's was 19,825. Considering the extensive use of cars, that is a lot of incidental walking.

 

[Seat0B]

I keep a detailed handwritten travel diary when we travel, so a lot of details I have forgotten now were recorded in this diary!

I will continue on over the next little while as the inspiration moves me. Thanks for following along.

 

[kpc]

Nice report....in 2009, I brought back over 100 kg of checked luggage divided over 7 or so bags from PVG (could have brought a bit more too within our allowance!)....it was a nightmare and like you needed 2 trolleys! Not sure how we managed to fit everything into one taxi but I remember bags in the front seat as well as on our laps in the back seat! Never again...

 

[Seat0B]

Nice report....in 2009, I brought back over 100 kg of cheecked luggage divided over 7 or so bags from PVG (could have brought a bit more too wirhin our allowance!)....it was a nightmare and like you needed 2 trolleys! Not sure how we mannaged to fit everything into one taxi but I remember bags in the front seat as well as on our laps in the back seat! Never again...

We say that every time, but the requests from Seat Son are never ending. This time we took King bed sheets 1000 count (very heavy), a dutch oven for his camping trips and an air compressor for pumping up his tyres after dune bashing. Yes you can buy all these things there, but very expensive with what he describes as the "expat tax" being applied to the prices of things that expats want to buy.

Plus we took over 12 bottles of Australian wine for him (not widely available). Along with Nutrigrain ($20 a box there) and Shapes ($9 a box). So those bags were heavy.

 

[RooFlyer]

Geez, no one show @Flashback this - the requests for Aussie snacks etc will be unbearable, eh @VPS ?

 

[Flashback]

*head pops up*

 

[VPS]

*head pops up*

get back in your box

Sorry @Seat0B

 

[Seat0B]

Friday 2 December 2022 - UAE National Day - trip to Al Ain

Started the day with the now traditional dip in the swimming pool, breakfast and then collected Seat Son's GF to join us for a day trip to the oasis town of Al Ain in the neighbouring emirate of Abu Dhabi about 2 hrs drive away. Trip passed easily on freeway, with a speed limit of 130 km/hr and leeway to 140 km/hr. Many cars decorated for UAE National Day today with huge decals of their favourite sheikh(s), flags fluttering everywhere on cars, roadside and buildings. Saw plenty of camels by the roadside along the way.

The Al Ain oasis itself was very cool on a hot day of 34 degrees and we enjoyed the lovely dappled shade from the huge date palms. Explored both the formal and informal paths and the ancient irrigation system that is still in use today. Off the main track (which was quite busy), it was calm and quiet and the sounds of running water and birds chirping were very relaxing.



Next stop was a massive lunch at an unassuming little Lebanese place that Seat Son had visited before. He speaks quite good Arabic and so we were given a very warm welcome. Our meal was moutabel (baba ganoush), hummus, olives, pickled vegetables, flat bread, fatoush, tabbouli, grilled chicken, lamb kebab, lamb and pine nut kofta, spicy fried potatoes (and they were very spicy) and freshly squeezed juices all round - for a total of AED 250 ($100 for 4). Note the patriotic decor in the restaurant.


After this we could hardly walk and a food coma threatened, so we went for a walk around Al Jahili Fort, a restored mud brick and straw fort built in 1898. We saw an interesting documentary abput the restoration using traditional methods (clay mud daub) and modern techniques (cooling via chilled water hydronics). The biggest risks to these buildings are heavy rain storms (rare), rising damp and termites that eat the date palm beams.



Saved the best for last and undertook the ascent of Jabel Hafeet in time for sunset. This is an extremely rugged mountain that rises 4000 feet above the desert floor right on the border with Oman. The road was steep and winding and very crowded. Many cars pulled off from overheating. Traffic was next level, with bumper to bumper pinches. Local were showing their exhuberance and the different attitude to road safety with many children riding on running boards and others standing with their heads through opened moon roofs waving massive UAE flags. We arrived in perfect time for the sunset along with huge crowds of others, but were able to get an excellent view point. The atmospehre was lovely, the lack of drunken yobbos very refreshing. It was noticeably cooler at ony 25 degrees althogh there was a bit of haze that slightly obscured an otherwise magnificent view.


trip back was busy but uneventful and we made it back for a fireworks display at Atlantis on the Palm at 9pm. What a great day.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Saturday 3 December 2022

I did not feel well today, so stayed around the apartment for the morning and did some washing, diary writing and reading while the boys went out exploring.

Then we went off to play padel tennis, which is extremely popular in the UAE. It's kind of a cross between squash and tennis. You play doubles on a small sized tennis court, hitting over a net, but it has perspex walls around the court and these are in play like in a squash game. It's quite exciting. But even though it was indoors and not that late in the day it was very hot and humid, and I gave up early. A nice Japanese inspired brunch after the game.



Afternoon was low key for me again with an afternoon nap as still not feeling 100%.

Round to the GF's parents' house for a fantastic BBQ dinner and the chance to get to know the family a bit better. Of course, being of South African background, they incorrectly called it a brai, but as it was delicious and I did not have to cook anything at all, I let them get away with that! i was the designated driver so had my first experience of driving in the UAE. A nice, low key day.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Sunday 4 December 2022

Slept in - lovely. Then made a batch of Nuts and Bolts for Seat Son using some of the Nutrigrain we schlepped over for him and the French Onion soup I aslo brought from home. This is a Seat family Christmas treat, so we were getting into the mood for the upcoming festivities a bit early.

Went for a mani-pedi with the GF, her sister and mother and enjoyed the pampering. I also enjoyed getting an insight into how Emirati women act in an all femal environment. As soon as they arrived at the salon, they all took off their abayas and hijabs or other head dress, and relaxed in skimpy western clothing, with their hair showing. They were there for the works! Mani/pedi, plucking and waxing, massage, etc. And they enjoyed it.

Met the boys for a drink and snacks at the Phileas Fogg Bar. It was overrun with British expats and I did not enjoy the atmosphere there.

It was our turn to host the GF's family for dinner, so I cooked curry. The leftovers will make good lunches for the workers next week.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Monday 5 December 2022

Started the day off with a round of phone calls home, which is always nice.
Had Seat Son's car for the day so decided to head out onto the Palm for a good explore. You don't get any real sense of the layout from the ground, which is a pity, but at least we can see it from his balcony. We drove out to the far end in very heavy traffic, and then took the circle road in both directions. There was a very clear demarcation line between the residential zones and the tourist area, and there were a lot of very very sunburnt Europeans at the resort end! I personally preferred the east side of the Palm - more interesting architecture and much more established gardens. Over on the western side we saw severl Skydive Dubai aircraft disgorging a significant number of parachutists. it was very interesting, especially for Mr Seat 0A to see the aircraft landing in such a built up area.

Moseyed over to Blue water Shopping Centre and saw the Dubai Eye (Dubai Ain) which was closed for maintenance.


It was hot again, so loitered in Starbucks with an iced coffee caramel latte that was very refreshing. Then I visited the cleanest, most luxurious public toilets I have ever used - even nicer than the ones in the EK F Lounge at DXB (no photos as there were attendants everywhere).

Then for a little drive towards Skydive Dubai - which was by now closed for the day, but we did see Dinner in the Sky being craned into position, and a lovely row of pineapples!



A few local price insights - bought a kilo of the smallest, scrawniest chicken thigh fillets that you have ever seen for $20 (twice what Iwould pay at home for a better quality product), refuelled the Paj for $90 which was much cheaper that I would pay at home, but not as cheap as I recalled from previous visits, andthe starbuck's coffee drink was $12.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai Tuesday 6 December 2022

An admin day today - never a complete holiday when you run your own small business. Set up the VPN and did some emails and banking. Also did 2 loads of washing in preparation for our departure tomorrow to Europe. Did Europe admin - setting up our Eurail passes (virtual passes now) and booking the first trip from Munich to Berlin. Updating Uber app and adding Bolt which is apparently much better in Central and Eastern Europe. Did our packing - we have way less luggage this time .

Then separate afternoons. I shopped and cooked Mexican chilli beef and cornbread for dinners. Casserole beef was $32/kg.

Mr Seat 0A returned the Paj to Seat Son's work so he could get home tonight, and then had major adventures with public transport to get back - road closures with no allowances made for pedestrians, fenced off median strips with no pedestrian access and Middle Eastern signage - by which I mean not very clear, and not in English. He needed a shower and a cool drink on return, more than 35,000 steps and a few blisters.

 

[Seat0B]

Ok that's it for today. I will start again soon with the trip from Dubai to Europe.

 

[Seat0B]

Dubai to Munich Wednesday 7 December 2022

Up early to have breakfast with Seat Son before departure later today. I can't believe we will be in Germany tonight with -2 degree temperature and snow in the forecast!

Caught a Careem car to DXB at 12 noon for our EK/QF codeshare flight 8051. Driver was punctual and the car was a spotless Lexus. Who needs EK chauffeur drive, I say! It took only 25 minutes to the airport, and then literally walked up to EK First check in with a LOT less luggage than the last time! Fast security, including a full explosives swab for me, and seated in the EK F Lounge in less than 1 hour after leaving home. The lounge was as fabulous as I recalled from previous visits. Ate the most delicious wagyu beef tenderloin with mushroom sauce and saute veg, followed by deconstructed raspberry and pistachio mille feuille with baklava ice cream Divine. All paired with a glass of Veuve Cliquot and a 2013 shiraz (quite robust, heavy, oily and delicious along with some excellent service. We were sorry to only have 2 hrs to enjoy - next time will allow longer.



Flight was an A380-800 similar set up to the one from Aus. Mr Seat 0A's IFE wasn't working so we were quickly relocated to other seats. This flight was only 6 hrs 40 mins and it passed so fast. I binge watched the Flight Attendant Series 1 with Kaely Cuoco (of Big Bang Theory fame) and it was fabulous.

On board meal was nice but nothing to compare to the Emirates lounge, so I really only picked at it.



Waaited a long time for bags, but all other formalities straightforward. Caught the local train into München Hbf for €12.30 each and then a very short walk, less than 5 minutes, to our hotel, the Mercure München City centre (good deal on my Accor membership at €135 per night). The hotel ws fantastic. Room was upgraded for us and it was large - a King size bed, nice new bathroom, a little sitting room off to the side and complimentary mini-bar with beer, juice and soft drinks. Also got the 2 welcome drinks in the bar with a free snack thrown in. Thet also happily printed 7 pages of work documents for us at no charge. Went to bed at 2230 local - about 0130 body time.

 

[Seat0B]

München to Berlin Thursday 8 December 2022

Slept in until 0830 but did not feel jetlagged, so I am becoming a fan of the evening arrivals. Had a great breakfast of coffee and pastries - Apfelschnecken (apple filled pastry) the size of my face and Mr Seat 0A had a similarly large Mandelbrezen (Almond coated bready style of large pretzel) from Rischarts, a local bakery since 1883. Their filled rolls looked so good I purchsed a couple for our train lunch.



Luckily my German was up to the task when this "emergency alarm" came through on my mobile. In fact, I had read about it the night before in the Deutscher Allgemeine newspaper, so was sort of expecting it, but I think a lot of tourists might have been concerned given the lead in English "emergency alarm" before the German text which included the words "test warnining" and "there is no danger".


Made our way back to the station for 1155 departure on ICE 1004 to Berlin, using our 1st class Eurail passes. This was the beginning of a very fast falling out of love with the Eurail pass, as it was the first of several total coughshows. There were two 1st class carriages, and this was largely insufficient to meet demand. It was not required to make a reservation, and as there was a charge of €9,50 each to reserve, I had decided not to. Bad call - another one for the "travel mistakes" thread.It was really ahrd to find 2 seats together for this long trip, but eventually we found a pair clearly labelled as "frei" and settled in - until a man turned up brandishing his phone at us and claiming one of these seats was reserved by him at the last minute and we had to move. Short Mexican standoff resolved by him finding another seat, but I felt quite upset by this interaction. Our neighbour across the aisle was a little old lady (86 years old, she said) with a twinkle in her eyse who advised "in der Zukunft, immer reservieren" (in the future, always make a reservation), and frankly I could see her point. She was an interesting travel companion, having learnt English in the UK in 1954 and worked as a travel agent for many years. She had been to Sydney, Brisbane and the Barrier Reef. We offered to help her off with her bags on arrival at Berlin Hbf. Our train ran very late - over 30 minutes with a long stop at Westkreuz, which confused our little old lady who wanted to get off because the clock said we should have been at the Berlin Hbf by then. We all helped her to try to understand the delay, and finally assisted her with her bags. The original seat clash guy decided by then we were OK people, and wished us a great trip in English and repeated the advice to reserve seats.

Went to Berlin tourist info in search of Berlin Welcome cards - €24 or 48 hrs of city transit and attraction discounts. we were served by the rudest, most disinterested and unhelpful person you could imagine! He has a future as a QF call centre worker for sure! I had some questions mainly about the discount on the Welcome pass for having a Eurail pass, and he just would not let me ask. Kept puttin his hand in my face and continuing his standard patter, all in Germa, which I understood no problems. I was asking questions in German, and he just refused to answer and then charged me the full price. Refused to do a refund for the eurail discount until Mr Seat 0A intervened in English andsaid we were not moving until the discount was provided. Wow! Welcome to Berlin.

After a few adventures on the S Bahn, we made it to our hotel, Novotel Suites Potzdamer Platz , 5 nights for €527, again very close to the station, less than 3 minutes walk. We had been allocated a accessible disability room for some reason, which was not going to suit us for a long stay, so trooped back to reception for a room change, which was cheerfully given to a much more suitable room. We were pretty whacked by now, so walked to nearby Aldi and shopped for dinner in our room - cheese, ham, salami, hummus, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, fruit and juice made a great spread.

Tomorrow will be busy - so much to see and do here!