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- Jun 12, 2015
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That pastry scroll looks so good!!
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It sure was! Crunchy, flaky delicious pastry with sweetened cinnamon apple inside. Divine.That pastry scroll looks so good!!
Berlin-Prague Tuesday 13 December 2022
Today we needed to be at Berlin Südkreuz to ctach ICE 379 to Prague departing at 1123. This time, we had seat reservations, so expected everything to run smoothly. Off to a good start, arriving early at Südkreuz with enough time to have a coffee and stock up on lunch snacks for the 4 hour long train trip, expecting to arrive in Prage at 1535. Up to the platform still with 30 minutes to spare - to walk straight into DB/Eurail cough Show part 2 being confronted with the dreaded sign "Zug fällt aus" = "Train cancelled". So off I went to Reisezentrum to see what could be arranged.
The best they could manage was a train to Dresden and then another train to Prague with revised travel times 1245-1735. And of course, all our seat reservations fell over. I was served by the original "Mr Happy" and was unable to get new seat reservations on the 2 hr Berlin to Dresden leg as it was "too close to departure time". For those following along, our previous trip from Munich to Berlin had involves some guy apparently getting a "last minute reservation" for one of the unreserved seats we were sitting in, so one of them was telling porky pies. We did manage to get new seat reservations for the Dresden to Prague leg, but there was no refund for the inability to get reservations to Dresden. Best I could do, so let it go.
Back up to the platform, which grew ever more crowded as we froze ourselves in the -2 degree temperatures. We were reluctant to go indoors as we now knew from bitter experience that getting a seat without a reservation might be a challenge and wanted to be first to board if we could. Next announcement was more bad news - the ICE after ours to Prague was also cancelled, so even more people were displaced to the Dresden train. When this arrived, it was already packed and we were squeezed in like sardines. Mr Seat 0A took one for the team and stayed downstairs with our bags and had to stand the entire way to Dresden (2 hrs) in the corridor of the 2nd class carriage. Further, wehn the conductor came to check his ticket, there was no internet (and we had local SIM cards) and he could not get his (compulsory) electronic Eurail pass to load. Conductor not sympathetic and read him the riot act about it being his problem to produce a ticket on demand. Pretty piss poor when you've paid for a reserved 1st class seat. I made it up to the 1st class seats, but there were none to spare, so I also stood for 30 mins before a couple of nice people in their 40s squished up a bit and made a perching place for me to precariously sit. They picked up that I wasn't German but that I could speak a bit and so we got chatting about allthe various DB horror stories and they said "Wilkommen in Deustchland" and offered me a beer! Things got a bit loose after that!
Anyway, we made it to Dresden and expressed our delight that at least we had reserved seats for the last leg of the journey. When the train arrived, we made our way to the correct car, correct seats - only to find 2 Americans sitting there, claiming that they had these seats and flashing an app around that I couldn't read without my glasses. They were 100% in our seats as per the DB reservations. Anyway, we gave up and took 2 other empty seats and vowed that we were NOT MOVING from these, no matter what happened. First class travel on DB with Eurail is absolutely NOT what it used to be, that's for sure.
Ate a very late lunch on the train and got some coffee and pastry to go with it. Felt a bit better with some food on board. Trip otherwise uneventful and we enjoyed beautiful scenry with snow on the ground from shortly outside Berlin all the way to Prague. When the train arrived in Prague, the loudspeakers patriotically played the haunting Ma Vlast by Smetana, which was very moving and set a good atmosphere.
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Caught our first ever Bolt to our hotel in heavy traffic for CZK 155 = $10.03! Had a luxury splurge at the Hotel Century Old Town M Gallery for two nights for CZK 7528 = about $420. Very well located 10-15 mins walk from the main square. Felt shattered after our day of travel woes, so just enjoyed our Accor Plus/ALL welcome drinks and a couple of bar snacks and called it a day.
I have been through this dilemma many times and to be fair it is not only a German thing. Poland knows how to party as well. I did get reimbursed finally after some email exchanges and AMEX credited it back.Conductor not sympathetic and read him the riot act about it being his problem to produce a ticket on demand
We were honestly shocked at the poor state of DB. We were last in Europe in 2017 and the standards then on DB were those we expected from earlier trips from the early 1980s to 2013 - trains were clean, staff were helpful, trains were extremely punctual, 1st class was nice, seats were plentiful, you could literally just hop on and hop off with a Eurail - no need to pfaff about linking particular trains or making seat reservations, and certainly no issues with an old fashioned paper pass not working. I was very dissatisfied withe this experience, and probably won't buy a Eurail again based on our results with it. For what it is worth, the Austrian trains (ÖBB) ran rings around DB in our opinion.We watched an episode of The Honest Guide about an hour ago Though this time he was spruiking up Brno as a destination.
Unfortunately I am not too surprised by your problems with DB. We never suffered anywhere near as badly as you but never had a long distance train run on time. We meet several couples who had similar experiences to you.
Hopefully you had a good time in Prague despite the tourists. I would love to return there.
I understand the overheated carriages like a furnace. BBQ anyone?Prague to Bratislava - Thursday 15 December 2022
Took another Bolt to the station for our train departure to Bratislava. A sleek black Audi A6 for the grand sum of $6.45!
Turns out that the trains don't get assigned to a platform until the last minute, so there was a big crowd hanging round the departure board waiting for the big reveal, followed by an unholy crush as everyone pushed and jostled to get to the right place to board. yes, this train was also delayed by 15 minutes, but, miracle of miracles, out seat reservations worked as they were supposed to and we had 2 lovely window seats with a table in between. Hooray! Older rolling stock and a bit tired and dirty but it was so nice not to have to worry about seats on this trip. We just chilled for this trip and alternated looking out the window with chatting and doing a few emails.
Boy was this train overheated though! I stripped off hat, gloves, scarf and coat as soon as possible after boarding. Then my cardigan. Next was a pool deck style change out of my long john top. Put my hair up into a bun. Next layer was shoes and socks off (but I did not put them on the bulkhead or seats ) and finally driven by the heat to remove my long john pants in the loo - ewwwwww! And yes I put my shoes back on to do that, and I was still lathered. Could not get out of that train fast enough!
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Caught another Bolt. This was a Skoda something and a bit small and battered for $13.00 which saved a long walk or battle with public transport as we were staying at the Ibis Centrum Bratislava which was close to the town centre, but not close to the railway station. We had moderated our expectations after really enjoying the splurge at MGallery in Prague, but the Ibis was actually very fine. We paid €65 per night for three nights, which included breakfast, free tea and coffee on tap from the bar, and a great selection of Accor ALL welcome gifts of chocolates and mini bottles of local alcohols/liqueurs. The room itself was huge, if basic, and we had a full sized deep bath.
Tired tonight (I now recognise this as part of my at the time undiagnosed leukaemia), so could not be bothered to go out to eat. Just ate lunch leftovers and a couple of drinks and planned our first day in Bratislava tomorrow. We have booked a small group tour with a company called Authentic Slovakia - "the Post-Communist Tour" which will have the 2 of us and 2 other people on it. Hoping that will give some insights into the history of this interesting part of the world.