Building a Home

[samh004]

A crystal ball would be useful.

Do you know where I can get one?

It doesn't apply to all gas hot water systems but the place we rented while we built had gas hot water- whenever there was a blackout there was no hot water. We didn't have to pay but there is also the consideration of rent for the gas bottles in some areas

As already mentioned, I think there are two versions. You have electric ignition, which would obviously not work in a blackout and another with a pilot light that would, but it uses a bit more gas.

We will have mains gas so no issue with bottles.

Don’t forget outside power points

It’s on the list.

We hope to see you at a future AFF event post-COVID.

... yes, or for a fishpond or electric mower and think about having one of 'industrial' amperage available if heave gear is ever contemplated. Or, maybe, an outside spa

Our mower takes a battery, but I was thinking an outdoor drinks fridge next to the BBQ in the future.

Is this your first build, if so I would follow the advice of @p--and--t and engage (if your budget permits) an independent building surveyor, we did this for our first renovation/ build. Let the licenced professionals argue about what is correct and incorrect but ensure you are on site for the inspections to watch and learn what is said as this will help in future builds.

I’m not sure I’ll want to build again, but I guess never say never, right. Brighton wants us to be on site for key milestones, whether that actually helps or not who knows.

The building company will be making a margin no matter how small it is off everything in your future property, the key is to maximise your spend and get everything that works for you. If you get a few things wrong in this build take them as learnings for the next.

Part of this thread is making sure we get the best advice to maximise our spend. Hopefully the latter part of the thread will have some great photos too.

Being first home, don’t get sucked in to all the extras. Easy to spend money on things that won’t add value to the home or improve your lifestyle. And majority are easy enough to add later if you really do need/want them and often cheaper than your project builder variation costs.

Luckily we have a long time until we have to lock things in so we can dream... before getting realistic and backing away from a pie in the sky idea.

Also keen to hear from you guys' experience whether you think 40 cm is deep enough to store wine with the neck pointing out?

My best advice would be to find your tallest/thickest bottle and use that for your base measurement. Reason I say this is that when my mother was renovating her apartment we bought a wine fridge for her storage needs, but didn’t pay attention to the shape of about a quarter of the bottles, which were Burgundy-shaped (majority Pinot Noir). These didn’t fit on the shelves properly and ended up having the labels rip off when the shelves were pulled out. The majority of the bottles were Bordeaux-shaped. Height wise they’re about the same, but one small difference can have a bit impact.

Following as I intend to do a knock down rebuild. Been doing a bit of research for months.

Re power points and lights, on almost all the building forums of project homes that I have read, for a single story home, it is better to to stick to standard and then get an outside electrician to do the extra points and lights. Only thing is that you specify the light batten to one of the LED downlight points that you would have positioned. The savings can be very significant. An electrician friend also confirmed this that the the project builders will charge you more that double of what an electrician will charge.

Maybe @TomVexille can verify too?

I had been wondering this myself, to just install standard light battens where I want LED down lights and have a mate swap them later. But as @TomVexille suggests, it’s a lot of work.

It's a lot of work but you both need to agree on colours/fittings etc before the builder starts. Alterations and additions during construction can be very expensive. Often it is better to wait until you have moved in before you make any changes.

It can be a stressful time . Talk often and candidly

I’m still not sure what @frankie has against psychedelic pink with blue polka dots, but I’ll defer to his judgement.

Soft closing drawers in the kitchen are a great idea.

An amendment to what I said earlier. Apparently all cupboards are soft close, but the relatively few drawers we have are not. That’ll be another thing to consider.

It's interesting reading the gas or induction comments, like the old Ford Vs Holden days

Meanwhile I’ll still choose Suzuki

 

[frankie]

I’m still not sure what @frankie has against psychedelic pink with blue polka dots, but I’ll defer to his judgement.

As I’ve said several times since we met almost 8 years ago, the problem is that I have eyes

 

[kookaburra75]

@Ric Our volume builder (Metricon) only charged ~$50 per extra cable run, including the associated gpo/batten. Now I'm not a domestic sparky but no chance I could do it that cheap after the fact (I value my time more than what it would take). A tooled up domestic company might, but I don't think they would be making a profit. The builder also double charges for downlights, first to wire it and second the upgrade cost to change a batten to a downlight. We only wanted 3 in the kitchen an two in the ensuite so we just paid the builder to do it. I then changed our other lights to fittings we bought cheaper than what the builder was offering. Also upgrades to GPOs like quads and USB I did myself.

I had been wondering this myself, to just install standard light battens where I want LED down lights and have a mate swap them later. But as @TomVexille suggests, it’s a lot of work.

The trap with downlights you have to watch out for, is that a batten holder for the light sits underneath the ceiling, but a downlight goes up into the ceiling space. If there is a truss above where you want to put the downlight then two into one won't go. If you're planning to have a nice straight row of downlights, you can bet your boots that there will be a truss in the way. Thankfully with the LED downlights you don't have to worry about a transformer like for the old halogen lights.
Maybe buy the downlights yourself, and provide them to the builder to fix in place.

 

[samh004]

When buying things like tiles and paint, buy a bit extra at the beginning and ensure it is all from the same batch number. It is easier to have an extra box or two of tiles so that if there is some unexpected breakage the trades person can continue instead of waiting until you source additional stock.

Brighton sources everything, and I believe I can’t add my own materials at all, unless I’m a registered tradie, and then they will employ me to work on my own house. I guess it’s a way to protect them.

Make sure you keep them at the end of each stage. You've paid for them.

I shall certainly suggest spare material is left.

Again, look after yourselves and each other, and please share the progress with us as it proceeds and hopefully we can all attend the house warming party.

Certainly will, looking forward to a future AFF BBQ.

Had to repair a bathroom twice due to movement 10 years down stream and the spare box of tiles was a godsend (discontinued product).

Not exactly the same issue, but in my parents recently sold house that was built in the 1990’s the bathrooms had Villeroy & Boch basins/toilets in a salmon colour. A few years ago a cistern cracked so they tried to replace it and found out the colour had long since been discontinued and had to go with white, which was very obviously the wrong colour.

Luckily most of the fittings will be white in our build.

 

[samh004]

The trap with downlights you have to watch out for, is that a batten holder for the light sits underneath the ceiling, but a downlight goes up into the ceiling space. If there is a truss above where you want to put the downlight then two into one won't go. If you're planning to have a nice straight row of downlights, you can bet your boots that there will be a truss in the way. Thankfully with the LED downlights you don't have to worry about a transformer like for the old halogen lights.

Thank you for pointing out where my logic was flawed.

While I appreciate there’s no transformer with new LED down lights, my preference is for there to be, so I can plug in LED GU10’s from LIFX for smart control. I know this won’t happen now though.

Maybe buy the downlights yourself, and provide them to the builder to fix in place.

Unfortunately, they do not allow this. Easy way for them to lose money so why would they.

 

[p--and--t]

When organising designs and construction contracts, I found out there are multiple sizes of doors - and several sizes of doors are supplied from the manufacturer at exactly the same price. I organised the building contract to use the largest door practicable (sometimes a design may not allow in tight places). There was no change to contract price by the builder in each case.

This change means on resale, or letting, often the house can be labelled wheelchair friendly. A side benefit is long term much less damage by furniture removalists / occupants / tenants / delivery personnel with larger items like sofas, beds, fridges etc. Another benefit can be more open feel and more even distribution of cooling breezes / airconditioning

 

[p--and--t]

On designing bathrooms, where practicable, I prefer shower areas designed without doors. Doors can break/sag, often make a noise on opening/closing, get scratched, get water stained, have crevices that can never be cleaned properly and create a less open, less luxurious feel. I realise this is not always possible on certain floor plans.

I always have the mixer tap for the shower (I much prefer over two taps) moved to an area on a wall away from under the shower head (which is where all lazy plumbers put them because it is quicker and easier for them). This enables turning the shower on and off and adjusting temperature without entering the shower, getting wet, getting burnt, cold etc. Again a more luxurious feel.

 

[get me outta here]

That would've been very useful when I smashed up my tib fib rock climbing and was in a wheel chair and crutches for what seems like months.

When organising designs and construction contracts, I found out there are multiple sizes of doors - and several sizes of doors are supplied from the manufacturer at exactly the same price. I organised the building contract to use the largest door practicable (sometimes a design may not allow in tight places). There was no change to contract price by the builder in each case.

This change means on resale or letting often the house can be labelled wheelchair friendly. A side benefit is long term much less damage by furniture removalists / occupants / tenants / delivery personnel with larger items like sofas, beds, fridges etc. Another benefit can be more open feel and more even distribution of cooling breezes / airconditioning

 

[get me outta here]

If (in the future), the toilet door can be swung outwards a person can't pass out for whatever reason falling behind in the bathroom and no one can get in.

 

[Ric]

@Ric Our volume builder (Metricon) only charged ~$50 per extra cable run, including the associated gpo/batten. Now I'm not a domestic sparky but no chance I could do it that cheap after the fact (I value my time more than what it would take). A tooled up domestic company might, but I don't think they would be making a profit. The builder also double charges for downlights, first to wire it and second the upgrade cost to change a batten to a downlight. We only wanted 3 in the kitchen an two in the ensuite so we just paid the builder to do it. I then changed our other lights to fittings we bought cheaper than what the builder was offering. Also upgrades to GPOs like quads and USB I did myself.

@TomVexille Thanks for that info. That's really interesting as the main forum that I have been looking at is the Metricon one (looking to KDR with them). 100% of posts were saying that additional power points are upwards of $100 each. Certainly for $50 I will go with them as my electrician says that they charge $40 each. You got a good deal!

You got PM!

 

[samh004]

When organising designs and construction contracts, I found out there are multiple sizes of doors - and several sizes of doors are supplied from the manufacturer at exactly the same price. I organised the building contract to use the largest door practicable (sometimes a design may not allow in tight places). There was no change to contract price by the builder in each case.

Don't think we get the option, at least not without an expensive charge. For instance, all doors are white, any other colour or wood staining costs extra.

On designing bathrooms, where practicable, I prefer shower areas designed without doors.

We're getting semi-frameless, which I actually prefer over frameless designs. That said, having experienced a few no-door designs, I'm not a huge fan as I find the floor of the bathroom tends to get wet with spray pretty quickly.

I always have the mixer tap for the shower (I much prefer over two taps) moved to an area on a wall away from under the shower head (which is where all lazy plumbers put them because it is quicker and easier for them). This enables turning the shower on and off and adjusting temperature without entering the shower, getting wet, getting burnt, cold etc. Again a more luxurious feel.

We have seen this option in a few display homes, but we are not sure if this will be possible. We shall be enquiring though.

If (in the future), the toilet door can be swung outwards a person can't pass out for whatever reason falling behind in the bathroom and no one can get in.

An interesting suggestion.

I'm heavily medicated for my epilepsy so I'd like to think I'm not going to have a fit on the toilet.

 

[get me outta here]

I hope so too.

My relo went down just behind the toilet door on the 2nd floor and she couldn't be budged. To get her out, the firies had to 'take out' the double glazed window in a double brick house and stretcher her down the ladder. Perhaps there's hinge pins that can more easily be pulled up from the hall side. Or, a pocket door. An outward opening door into the hallway would be a nuisance. But, as it is a forever home, it's best to be prepared if possible.

I'm heavily medicated for my epilepsy so I'd like to think I'm not going to have a fit on the toilet.

 

[OZDUCK]

I hope so too.

My relo went down just behind the toilet door on the 2nd floor and she couldn't be budged. To get her out, the firies had to 'take out' the double glazed window in a double brick house and stretcher her down the ladder. Perhaps there's hinge pins that can more easily be pulled up from the hall side. Or, a pocket door. An outward opening door into the hallway would be a nuisance. But, as it is a forever home, it's best to be prepared if possible.

There are already Australian Design rules for toilet doors that do require the ability for access in case of illness etc. They do not apply to bathrooms without a toilet. My house, built in 1985, has this type of 'lift-off' hinges.

Construction of sanitary compartments

The NCC contains a Performance Requirement that requires a sanitary compartment to be constructed with sufficient space or other means to permit an unconscious occupant to be removed from the compartment. The corresponding Deemed-to-Satisfy Provisions, F2.5 of NCC Volume One and 3.8.3.3 of NCC...

www.abcb.gov.au

 

[Austman]

Floor to ceiling tiles in laundry, ensuite and bathroom.

Totally agree. It's incredibly practical in those areas. Even if you don't like the style. Some rooms need practicality.

We have instantaneous gas hot water.

And instantaneous electric is available too. I have it. But it does need 3-phase electricity. It's physically tiny but can pump out piping hot water on demand.

I would not be going with gas cooking because of the indoor pollution.

An externally ducted range hood is the usual solution.

 

[samh004]

And instantaneous electric is available too. I have it. But it does need 3-phase electricity. It's physically tiny but can pump out piping hot water on demand.

Will look to gas first, but good to know there are plenty of options.

 

[get me outta here]

Yes, but then the house heat goes up there too.

An externally ducted range hood is the usual solution.

 

[samh004]

Yes, but then the house heat goes up there too.

Perfect for winter.

I just realised, I can cook s'mores inside!

 

[Austman]

Yes, but then the house heat goes up there too.

Not that much and only when the range hood exhaust fan is on when using the gas cook top. An electric oven to match is a modern usual. I suppose an induction cook top is the modern electric cook top alternative. Instantaneous temperature changes are what you need from a cook top. But you often want to exhaust cooking steam anyway.

An electric oven doesn't need the range hood exhaust fan on of course.

 

[RooFlyer]

In the 'you never know' category.

Not part of the build, but if you ever think you might want a safe installed, consider where it might go. Mine is bolted into onto the floor slab in an 'innocuous' place, as it was retro-fitted. Could have been much more convenient if a certain wall was made appropriate.

No, not holding bearer bonds or a jewel collection (family or otherwise ), mostly irreplaceable family history stuff (its fireproof). OK, a few gold coins too

 

[p--and--t]

I vote for externally vented rangehood as the only way to go.

Recirculating is utter cough (what I have in my apartment), ineffective in reducing odours, and expensive having to replace the charcoal filters and pain having to wash the grids.