Chile and Antarctica cruise

[RooFlyer]

I haven't begun this TR until I'm sitting here in the Qantas F Lounge at Sydney, waiting for my flight to Santiago, mainly because there have been so many issues to date, I wondered if I'd ever make it this far.

But what is planned:

Flights are all revenue, except the VA one first.
HBA-SYD, VA J
SYD-SCL , QF J
SCL-MVD, LATAM Y (bumped to the next day due to late SYD-SCL, was originally booked PE )
MVD-SCL LATAM PE
SCL-PWU Charter flight, effectively Eurobusiness
Cruise
PWU-SCL charter, 'Eurobusiness'
SCL-SYD, QF J
SYD-HBA, VA J



Cruise is SilverSeas, 19 days expedition voyage from and back to Puerto Williams in the far south of Chile, and swings around the Falklands/South Sandwich/South Shetlands island arc before 4 days on the Antarctic Peninsula then back home across the Drake Passage. Pre and post cruise hotel at the Mandarin Oriental, Santiago.



The history of this is:. My brother died 2 years ago and unexpectedly left me a small bequest. On this, I first did my First trip to Europe earlier this year, and the balance was used to book this cruise. My first SilverSeas, first 'blue water' and second 'small big boat' cruise (ie 150-250pax). Others have been river cruises between St Petersburg & Moscow and another on the Nile, one to the Chilean fjords and glaciers and one on a 50 pax vessel around the Galapagos.

My Travel Agent booked it about 18 months ago - a 25% single supplement just had to be swallowed. Classic verandah suite, low and as close to the centre as I could get.

Then, a year ago, I got my TA to book flights. This was when costs were soaring and I blanched at the cost of Qantas return to SCL (but now its relatively cheap). LATAM wasn't going on sale for another two months (I don't mind their 2-2-2 business), so I bought the Qantas ticket. At this time, covid hadn't yet gone and cruise lines were still testing prior to boarding. So I booked to arrive in Chile a week before the cruise, thinking I could meditate and isolate in or close to the Andes somewhere (the lake district would be good!) and then return to Santiago and be tested.

When it became obvious that covid had ceased to be a great concern, and we wouldn't be tested, I got my TA to add SCL-MVD-SCL for a few days in Montevideo, Uruguay and then I'd hire a car and spend a couple of days at a B&B in the Santa Cruz wine district, south of Santiago. All that was locked away 6 months ago.

Then came the wait, which became progressively more anxious as time went on. First my health - two conditions which could 'flare up' - and anything else that might come out of the blue. Some appointments made with specialists and GP with the cruise in mind and to get me match fit both before and in case something happens during the cruise. I'll be carrying my own personal pharmac_.

My TA recommended applying for a Chilean visa early 'as they take forever'. I've been to Chile about 3 or 4 times previously, and it had always been just pay a 'reciprocity fee' on arrival, so getting a visa was annoying, but shouldn't be an issue - or so I thought!!

I applied in August and I first posted about the bizarre application on-line here:

Chile visa application - bizarre

Has anyone applied for a Chilean visa recently? SAC: Sistema Atención Consular - Ciudadanos I'm about half way through and I hope to God that I'm doing something wrong. I've applied for a few complex visas in my time - Russia and India come to mind - but this one is just loopy...

www.australianfrequentflyer.com.au

But that was nothing compared to the anxious, nothing-happening, down-to-the-wire wait to have the eVisa actually issued by the Chilean consulate in Melbourne. I eventually got it just a week ago after flying to Melbourne and fronting up at the consulate. This was a really, really anxious time; my TA reported someone who didn't get their visa issued in time and had to expensively change flights!! That drama here:

Obtaining a visa for Chile

I started another thread about what I saw as the bizarre process for applying for a visa for Chile. Starting this new one as I think it best to have a clear explanation of the process post application that I and others have experienced. One was my Travel Agent's boss, who had exactly the same...

www.australianfrequentflyer.com.au

During all this time I was preparing for the cruise. First time in Antarctica and first time on the 'luxury' Silver Seas. In this I was greatly assisted by discussions with @Lat34 , @zig , @drron @mrs.dr.ron and @Port Power All experienced cruisers most have been to Antarctica and Port Power is going to be on the same cruise as me. Thank you all! mrs.drron has knitted me a very fetching neck gaiter, so a special thank you! Also advice from a number of others, such as the very reassuring @VPS and @tgh . Apologies to anyone I missed!

I decided to buy boots and waterproof over-trousers, not wanting to get the wrong size with my arthritic big toe, which an operation hadn't cured. Then there are lots of bits & pieces such as gloves/mittens, a better camera with zoom lens, thermal underwear ... the list goes on! Probably $1,000 in extra expenses, maybe half will only get the single use, then be given away.

Finally packed over the weekend, finding that my usual medium suitcase was too small, so I got out my trusty 'big bertha' two wheeler and stuffed it full. 22kg - I'm pretty sure this it the first time I've ever gone over 20kg. My luggage scale illuminated red!

 

[RooFlyer]

Time to depart! As is my custom, I flew the domestic leg the day before the international, in case of delays/cancellations. Didn't get off to a good start, with the VA bird (VA1533, B737, 1F) getting as far as the apron before turning back due to a technical issue. Recounted, with later commentary from AviatorInsight here:

Ask The Pilot

thanks. Are you allowed to use the wifi in the coughpit and use the phone mid flight?

www.australianfrequentflyer.com.au

The usual non-premium HBA experience - no VA lounge and the cattle-runs out to board.


Lift-off; some nice beaches around.



Nice view over my place - on the point to the right foreground.



Some lovely beaches up eastern Tas, mostly uninhabited. Flinders island



Sydney Olympic Park has changed since 2000!



Arrive in Sydney and check-in to Rydges at the International terminal. And then the 'fun' started.

 

[tgh]

Wishing you well, have fun and hopefully a dash of adventure along the wat

 

[RooFlyer]

Check-in at Rydges was as tedious as check-ins are these days. Asked for a NON runway side room in the booking request, and asked for same when checking in. Up to room, which had a wonderful view of the runway. Back down, change rooms. Lovely car park view ( quiet!)


About 6pm got a text from Qantas saying my flight tomorrow is going to be delayed by 3.5 hrs, now departs 4pm. That would make my connection to Montevideo, which was 4 hrs untenable. Before i could do anything, Qantas helpfully re-booked me on SLC-Sao Paulo departing at 1:30am, arrive Sao Paulo 5:35 am (Premium Economy only), then Sao Paulo to MVD 7:15 arriving 9:55am.

No, thanks, so called travel agent after hours and asked for alternative. Qantas of course had taken charge of the reservation and nothing the TA could do then, but we agreed that I'd take the SCL-MVD direct flight the next day. I'd cancel one night in MVD and have it at Holiday Inn at SCL. She called Qantas next morning (aby 45 mins on hold) and this was done - only in whY, unfortunately. 1A PE to 7C in Y.

One upside is that because its now a LA flight, not QF code-share, my Latam Black (plat equiv) should get me into the good lounge at SCL.

So, after a flurry of changing reservations, printing out new itinerary, I checked in at QF First suite at SYD, no probs, then to the F Lounge and finally relaxing a bit.

 

[Black Duck]

Hope it all settles down and goes smoothly from now. Sounds a great trip.

 

[Major]

What ? No Champagne !!

 

[SYD]

By coincidence, I was looking at cruises out of SAm earlier today - I knew they were eye-wateringly expensive but they also all seem to be a min of 10 or 11 days. Anyway, quite envious.

Curious to see what you see and do in Uruguay. We expect to be there in Feb/Mar - if I extract some fingers and finalise internal flights and accommodation...

 

[Pushka]

Have a fabulous time. I'm still working on MrP to cruise to Antarctica.

 

[Seat0B]

I’m along for the ride @RooFlyer. This is something that is definitely on my wish list so I will be very interested to see how it all pans out.

Have a great trip.

 

[VPS]

Glad to have been of some assistance. I know you won't regret it. Have a ball

 

[tgh]

I thought you were on the Cloud ?
Port power posted on CC that she is on the wind...

 

[Lat34]

Good luck @RooFlyer - I’m confident you will enjoy Antarctica (including some terrific rocks & landforms) and hope your journey is memorable for all the right reasons. Looking forward to the trip report plus insights from @Port Power

 

[TheRealTMA]

Buon viaggio, @RooFlyer. Looking forward to the TR.

 

[latawiec]

Cruise is SilverSeas, 19 days expedition voyage from and back to Puerto Williams in the far south of Chile, and swings around the Falklands/South Sandwich/South Shetlands island arc before 4 days on the Antarctic Peninsula then back home across the Drake Passage.

View attachment 357387

It is very impressive cruise, but below the Antarctica Polar Circle. Although you will not experience 24 hrs daylight, you will be in Antarctica.
Have a great life experience and enjoy this cruise. Wish you also nice weather.

 

[RooFlyer]

I thought you were on the Cloud ?
Port power posted on CC that she is on the wind...

we are both on the Silver Wind

 

[zig]

After the long wait, planning and preparation the fun can begin. Have a wonderful trip. Looking forward to your insights and also hearing about the impact of the avian flu in the region.

 

[Lat34]

Two favourite reminders of our trip south ...

 

[RooFlyer]

Given that our departure was now 4:00pm, I had some extra time late morning. Caught up with @mrs.dr.ron and @drron for coffee at the Rydges (the ordering of which was a lot more difficult than it might have been!). My TA called back to confirm my new flight details SCL-MVD, the following day, but only in whY I spoke to someone else at the agency who told me that immigration at SCL was horrendous (long queue).

At 11:30 I wandered over to the First check-in suite in the terminal, thinking I could check in early - and I was right. Smooth and easy, with their scales agreeing with my hand-held one - 21.9kg. After my last experience (where immigration bounced me because QF hadn't 'opened' the flight yet) I double checked that the flight was open - yes.

Then through immigration and security pretty easily.

I was going to catch up with @TomYagher , but due to my delay he was already on his way. Another AFFer, @courtney96 I had agreed to guest into the FLounge which I did when she got through security, an hour or two after me. A big South American adventure awaits!

I got a spa appointment as soon as I arrived, and after that had a nice lunch. Pork belly something



One of the best airports for plane spotting



I made comment elsewhere that the furniture in the 'flagship' SYD F Lounge could do with a refresh



I popped down to the J lounge where the drrons were waiting for their BA flight; I did the walk of shame



Then to the gate, a bit early as I wanted to do a bit of walking before the flight. A bit disconcerting that at official boarding time there was someone organising the rope lines, but that's all - not even signage up. Another delay?



But no, the gate agents arrived a few minutes later, signs lit up and boarding commenced at T-40mins.

Flighty app told me that arrival delays on this service were common.

 

[RooFlyer]

Boarding was orderly (or at least as far as I saw, I was about 3rd in the priority queue). To my seat, 3K. I selected the RH side to get the view of the Andes on approach to Santiago SCL, which I did, but it came with other issues - see below.

Offered a Champagne; I asked what it was and the (young-ish) FA went and had a look and replied "Doo-val Lee-roy". Not as slow as that, but it was the pronunciation. To his credit, whenever he poured me a drink, it was almost to the brim "to save you running out" . Had he flown with me before?

Farewell, pretty city.



And a view of another one of my (former) places - between Manly beach and the ferry terminal. Loved that place. Could see the ferry arriving, then saunter down to the terminal for my ride to the CBD where I worked in the (now gone) Goldfields House on Circular Quay.



"Late lunch" service started about 75 mins after seat belt signs off.




I think they took orders in status priority. Certainly my order was taken early, with those around me later. Skimmed over the far south of NZ



Arancini ball and a glass of the Champagne



Main of beef fillet. Other than rather plain presentation, it was pretty good; overcooked a bit for my liking, but tender enough. Even the small bowl of Neil's leaves was OK, having a nice dressing on it.




It got dark outside for a short period, and had the B787 electronic window dimmer not been centrally on, I would have gotten a nice pic of a sunset to the south, over Antarctica, although it was cloudy.

After sunrise, a shortcoming of picking a RH window seat emerged. The electronically dimmed window was no match for sun low on the horizon and it was pretty intrusive; had to keep out of the direct sunlight while trying to sleep. I didn't find the bed very comfortable - it would have been OK if the armrest on the window side could retract down. As it was, it stuck out and narrowed the width of the bed. Not much sleep.

Breakfast served about 90 mins out. I ordered way too much and wanted to try the avo on toast.



Someone wrote recently that the avo toast was impossible to cut - and they were right!! But possibly not so much that the toast crust was that hard, but the knife was so blunt as to be almost useless. I pushed the tomato and egg from the top and picked up the toast and chomped on it, and it was very nice.

Some nice views of the Andes as we descended into SCL.





There were some nice views earlier, too and I asked for the window dimmer central control to be released, but was told they only did that when the Captain annoucned 'prepare the cabin for landing'. Well before that point, the whole cabin was having breakfast or, like me, had finished it. Those electronic dimmed windows are a terrible idea. Not only are they not completely functional when dimmed (not blacked out) but the central control sucks.

Overall the flight was OK, better than I was expecting but J experience still below the other airlines I have flown on recently.

 

[RooFlyer]

We pulled up at the new International terminal, open for about 2 years. Long walk to immigration (as is the custom in nearly all new terminals) and along the way you had to scan a QR code to fill out a declaration re bringing in agricultural produce - similar, but less detailed to the arrival card for Oz. The airline had an announcement before we landed that it could also be filled in via a form on the ground, but I didn't see that before immigration (may have been available in the baggage hall).

I was warned beforehand that immigration would be slow, and that the agents would grill me re my address in Chile and other intentions. There was a long queue, but it moved relatively fast. At the window I had to show my paper visa, which was inspected, and I was asked where I was staying, and this was typed in by the agent. No grilling as such. Got through pretty easily; 40 mins all up in immigration (filled in the agricultural form while waiting); bag was on the carousel. You get an e-mail with a PDF of your Ag form declaration and it should be inspected as you go through customs, but no-one asked for mine.

On exit, I was a bit disoriented. I was staying overnight at the Holiday Inn at the airport, which was (still is) right over the road form the old terminal arrivals. With the new terminal, NFI. Eventually found a sign to 'Hotel' and it was about a 300m walk along a new concreted path & gardens to the hotel.

I've stayed here several times before and its a favorite airport hotel of mine. Easy check-in, knowledgeable staff, good restaurant; I asked for and got a quiet room (not facing the roadway). Ghastly view, but I rarely care about that. No noise. Actually, during the night, you could just hear aircraft taking off, but certainly not a problem.



Bathroom with shower and toilet.



Yes, you can take your luggage cart up to the room.



The view from 3rd (top) floor in the middle; new international terminal in the background.



Front of the hotel and old terminal, now domestic only.



Another view, looking towards International. Walkways here on departures level and also on ground level.