Cruising the Kimberley coast on Le Laperouse, Darwin to Broome

A few odds 'n sods:

The wifi (wee-fee :) ) on board is adequate but varies throughout the day, I guess as people use it more or less. You get your own log-in, but you can only use one device at a time, with is a bit annoying.

The expedition leaders/specialists are a mix of Australian, Canadian, English and NZ, but mostly Aussie. They say you can ask them anything, anytime, but they are not about except during zodiac time and understandably, are pretty busy then. I've only had a brief chat to the geo. Yesterday at Ashmore Reef, the zodiac guy we had tried to tell be that the reef was formed n a subsiding undersea volcano! (Its just a high point of the Continental shelf).

The service crew (cleaning, waiting, bar) all seem to be Filipino, and are very good to deal with. A fair proportion of them are on their first or second cruise.

Professional crew (Head Chef, Head Engineer, Sommelier, Cruise Director, Captain & Deputy) all French of course.

Power plugs are European type; I think its a bit bizarre that on this new-ish boat, they aren't of the international type.

Cabins are very quiet - haven't heard any external noises (eg loos in adjacent/above cabins). Aircon works well, simple adjustment. Mini bar kept stocked - I had to ask for gin instead of whiskey (there was already tonic water there :) ). Bed comfortable, bathroom space (just) adequate. Bathroom products by someone called Hermes - I believe its the French equivalent of Palmolive.

Masks are required in all indoor settings, except when eating & drinking. Going up to the bar or the buffet, expected to be on. No-one appears to be enforcing, but I'd say 90+% compliance. Four days in, I think we are still 'case-free' or at least symptomatic-free.

Demographic I'd say 90% Australians, with a few Germans and ?Korean. Most 60+, very few <30.

On-board activities: There is a classical pianist who plays in the lounge and we had a 'concert' from her last night in the theatre, plus a jazz/easy listening type duo. There are quizzes, films in the theatre, and lectures from the specialists.

Annoyances: Not many. There is no 'moving map', showing where we are, anywhere. I requested a look/tour of the below deck engineering and/or the Bridge (as we were told we could have), but no reply after three days. I would have thought yesterday, when we were parked at Ashmore Reef all day, would have been ideal to see below decks. I've already had a grizzle about the French-ness of the meals, but the lack of variety in the wines is downright bad, and for the 'premium' grog package, the single solitary additional wine is a Yering Station Chardonnay! $20 at Dan's. I mentioned the Sancerre we had the other night and I think the opinion was that its a good drop. It was only for the Captain's gala.

At Ashmore reef, we weren't allowed to land on the island, or even set foot on the sand off the side of the zodiac - its a Marine Protected Zone, fair enough. Unfortunately, no-one told the Captain, who was in his own zodiac with his partner, having a little snuggle along the beach from us ;):oops:. Lucky guy, but a bit rough (the 'standing on the beach', not the snuggle) when we were told verboten to stand .

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Interesting the comments on the whole package. We did Ponant to Antarctica in 2018 and thought it was 5*, but we are mere bogans from the wrong side of the tracks and this was the first fancy ship we had been on. Ponant seems to place themselves - price wise - with the Silver Sea and Regents, but for us the expedition side was most attractive.
We didn't really use the gourmet restaurant but hit the buffet most nights as there was a large Aussie contingent so we made a ruckus up there.
The drinks we had included a lot of coughtails - about a dozen - and the wine and spirits were acceptable. I don't recall a drinks package but you could pay extra for the better brands. The wines wee mainly South American - Chile predominantly - and the beer was some Argentinian brand and Heineken.

The expedition leaders were very knowledgeable and they made the cruise. Hopefully your guys pick up.
 
Gee, that's a very bad look by the Capitan!:mad:

Frog arrogance - or just randy? 🧐

Surprised about access to the bridge. Coral Expeditions, Heritage Expeditions and One Ocean have an open bridge policy. It's only shut during berthing or other operations of that nature.
 
Forgot to mention - we had 'open' bridge access. You can enter any time except when berthing/port. They crew largely ignored us but would respond to questions.
No engine room peeks offered.
Expedition crew were out and about most days and happy to have a talk. We also had nightly presentations on the next days activities, sometimes to manage expectations given the weather conditions.
 
Interesting the comments on the whole package. We did Ponant to Antarctica in 2018 and thought it was 5*, but we are mere bogans from the wrong side of the tracks and this was the first fancy ship we had been on. Ponant seems to place themselves - price wise - with the Silver Sea and Regents, but for us the expedition side was most attractive.
We didn't really use the gourmet restaurant but hit the buffet most nights as there was a large Aussie contingent so we made a ruckus up there.
The drinks we had included a lot of coughtails - about a dozen - and the wine and spirits were acceptable. I don't recall a drinks package but you could pay extra for the better brands. The wines wee mainly South American - Chile predominantly - and the beer was some Argentinian brand and Heineken.

The expedition leaders were very knowledgeable and they made the cruise. Hopefully your guys pick up.
Oh, don’t get me too wrong. This is undoubtedly 5*, although is my first ‘proper’ cruise so I have little to compare it to. Probably I just expected too much Re the grog and tucker - none of it is anywhere near “bad“, just not the high French standard I was sort of expecting. I asked couple of others about the food and wines last night and they were all very pleased with it.
 
Oh, don’t get me too wrong. This is undoubtedly 5*, although is my first ‘proper’ cruise so I have little to compare it to. Probably I just expected too much Re the grog and tucker - none of it is anywhere near “bad“, just not the high French standard I was sort of expecting. I asked couple of others about the food and wines last night and they were all very pleased with it.
From my experience on Caledonian Sky, the expedition leaders are not Kimberley experts, but from all over. I recognised the man in your photo! One was a high school geography teacher, another an scientist who had been to Antarctica, some Queenslanders who knew their birds but not ours, etc. There were only two really good leaders who knew Kimberley plants and birds. No marine biologist at all. So good people, but lacking relevant knowledge.
 
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From my experience on Caledonian Sky, the expedition leaders are not Kimberley experts, but from all over. I recognised the man in your photo! One was a high school geography teacher, another an scientist who had been to Antarctica, some Queenslanders who knew their birds but not ours, etc. There were only two really good leaders who knew Kimberley plants and birds. No marine biologist at all. So good people, but lacking relecan’t knowledge.

I think of the 7 naturalists, 4 I think are 'Kimberley experts' and 3 are generalists.

Oh, one last thing re odds 'n sods. There is zero wiping down of touch points, such as stair bannisters, lift buttons, lounge type door handles etc at least during the day. I find that rather extraordinary. But again, don't get me wrong, I'm having a wonderful time - just adjusting to things.

Onto the fun things.

Dinner menus for that night:

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I chose the Aussie. Amuse bouche

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Crab and avocado starter

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Scotch fillet, bearnaise sauce

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Cheese to finish.

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Some of the wine list for purchase (prices should be tax-free, I think). Comments, observations welcome.

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I think of the 7 naturalists, 4 I think are 'Kimberley experts' and 3 are generalists.

Oh, one last thing re odds 'n sods. There is zero wiping down of touch points, such as stair bannisters, lift buttons, lounge type door handles etc at least during the day. I find that rather extraordinary. But again, don't get me wrong, I'm having a wonderful time - just adjusting to things.

Onto the fun things.






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Try the Pouilly-Fuissé and the Chateau Latour Les Forts de Latour (lovely wine!). The Saint-Emillion Chateau Cannon Grand Cru Class B would be worth a look. Classic Sairnt Emillion - 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. And, the Chateau Latour Le Pauillac de Latour worth a look as well.
 
Try the Pouilly-Fuissé and the Chateau Latour Les Forts de Latour (lovely wine!). The Saint-Emillion Chateau Cannon Grand Cru Class B would be worth a look. Classic Sairnt Emillion - 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. And, the Chateau Latour Le Pauillac de Latour worth a look as well.

I got it right then :) - I got the 2011 Pauillac de Chateau Latour half with the steak, half the next night. For E96, a good 'entry level' I thought.
 
I think of the 7 naturalists, 4 I think are 'Kimberley experts' and 3 are generalists.

Oh, one last thing re odds 'n sods. There is zero wiping down of touch points, such as stair bannisters, lift buttons, lounge type door handles etc at least during the day. I find that rather extraordinary. But again, don't get me wrong, I'm having a wonderful time - just adjusting to things.

Onto the fun things.

Dinner menus for that night:

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I chose the Aussie. Amuse bouche

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Crab and avocado starter

View attachment 287405

Scotch fillet, bearnaise sauce

View attachment 287406

Cheese to finish.

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Some of the wine list for purchase (prices should be tax-free, I think). Comments, observations welcome.

View attachment 287408

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Some decent producers. Anythong non-Bordeaux though?

Pricing isn't cheap. They've generally got weaker vintages too (ie saved themselves some money). Agree about the Les Forts de Latour. Great second wine, but that price is a little eye watering. But then again, you're a captive audience.
 
Tuesday - we sailed all night to reach Ashmore Reef, out 'international' port of call to get tax free status and for the employment conditions of crew, I dare say. Australian external territory.

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Even before we arrived, there were 'traditional' Indonesian fishermen about - legal, under an agreement with Aust Gov.

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Snorkelling was on the agenda. It was strongly discouraged for anyone except pretty competent snorkellers (no bottom to touch, currents etc). I didn't go, for a number of reasons, but I regret it now - in the end, people who went said it wasn't that tough.

In the morning, we set out in zodiacs for a close look at East island (there is East, Middle and West islands :) ). But a bizarre way to get there. We were anchored maybe a km away from the island, but we had to do an approx 4 km 'u shaped' course around a series of buoys , and past the permanently-stationed Border Force ship who apparently are interested in everyone who approaches the reef. We thought we might throw some baguettes at them, to show our friendly intent.

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Now heading away from the BF and towards the island

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Past a couple of seized Indon fishing boats which are kept here to tow 'transgressors' out of Australian waters.

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And to the island .No landing or touching the bottom allowed, at all. Lots of birds (coughies, frigate-birds - non of which as colourful as the Galapagos varieties, @JohnM , although there were some dirty-red footed coughies. Better shots on my compact zoom camera, but I can't get them off the camera yet.


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Ponant should have some really good Aussie Expedition leaders as I believe ~ 30% of the company is owned by the former owner of Orion cruises Sarina Bratton.
We met a couple after she sold Orion on A Silver Explorer cruise. They said they were just temporarily on SS until they moved to Ponant. Our Kimberley cruise was on the Orion.
Ponant’s AU expansion - Cruise Passenger
 
Ponant should have some really good Aussie Expedition leaders as I believe ~ 30% of the company is owned by the former owner of Orion cruises Sarina Bratton.
We met a couple after she sold Orion on A Silver Explorer cruise. They said they were just temporarily on SS until they moved to Ponant. Our Kimberley cruise was on the Orion.
Ponant’s AU expansion - Cruise Passenger
That was quite awhile ago and Kimberley expedition cruising has increased many times over in recent years. Plus the international cruise lines only need team members for the season, so there is great competition to bag the best and not enough expedition people to go around. Hence many from other states or even countries who are not au fait with the area. In addition they also have be licensed to pilot the zodiac. As I said, good people, just not up to speed with their knowledge of the Kimberley.
 
As I said, good people, just not up to speed with their knowledge of the Kimberley.
After today I’m inclined to agree with you

Question: What’s under Ashmore Reef ( as in the rocks).

a) limestone
b) volcanics (ie undersea volcano)
c) don’t know
d) Continental rocks off the Bonaparte Basin & adjacent

Answers , b and c were given by the three geologists on the expedition team.

When I googled it, I found none were correct and the answer is d 😡🙄🤣

Question: what’s this green mineral?

a) epidote
b) olivine
c) peridote

Again, the three opinions. Answer I think was a). c) at least was reasonably impossible given the geological setting.

I think I’ll apply for a job 😇

Only half being a smart-cough here but the technical knowledge of the Geos compared to the knowledge of the zoologists, botanists and the other naturalists is quite disappointing..
 
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After today I’m inclined to agree with you

I think I’ll apply for a job 😇

Only half being a smart-cough here but the knowledge of the Geos compared to the knowledge of the zoologists, botanists and the other naturalists is quite disappointing..
A bit of homework wouldn't have gone astray (by the Geos).
 

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