Drron takes to cruising.The Arctic here we come.

[drron]

Sunday and aftr brekkie we go out on the bow-cold,windy,snowing at times and crowded but I rise to the occasion-

We decide to go back to our cabin and have room service hot chocolate.We are in the pack ice and PA11 is slicing through it-

It is impressive-

We see a couple of seals and the birds as ever are still around.

The ice has amazing colours-

We get just over 81 degrees north-further than is usually done-

We then turn around and head back south.The plan is to head for Lagoya a known walrus haulout.Unfortunately the weather turns bad.Snowing heavily,winds gusting to 100Ks.Visibility very poor so the afternoon landing and polar plunge are off.We watch a movie instead.We have dinner with a schoolteacher couple from the South Coast of NSW and our Californian friends-their daughter lives in Tasmania.Again excellent food-smoked eel and trout tower,herb and parmesan cannelloni,lighly poached sea scallops,raspberry cheese cake-all washed down with a Pinot Gris from Alsace.
There is a planned early start on Monday so we arrange for an early breakfast in our room.Unfortunately the weather is even worse with really gusty winds-an Arctic gale so landings for the day at Palanderbakta and Augustabakta(another walrus haul out) are cancelled.Having my morning bath and the ship is rolling-water sloshing back and forth-quite enjoyable.
Next cruising the birdcliffs and an amazing glacier.

 

[docjames]

Wow, amazing trip and great TR. Keep those amazing pics coming - am now convinced that despite my dislike of boats/cruises, that this will have to be an addition to the "bucket list".

(Hello from BOS awaiting AA145 in F)!

 

[drron]

Well docjames I also had a dislike of boats and cruise ships particularly.but we sailed the Inside Passage in Alaska in an 8 pax boat,then the Galapagos in a 16 pax boat and got hooked.this one was great.We have already booked another cruise next year in a slightly larger vessel-~390 pax-Tokyo to Anchorage via Siberia and the Aleutians.
Hope you had reasonable AA flights-the pointy end certainly is Easier to take.
Anyway back to the TR.Monday and the weather is worse if anything.So again no landings at a Walrus haul out.So we head for the bird cliffs at AlkefjelletThousands of guillemots and guano stained cliffs.The weather is a little better and the captain does a great job drifting along the cliffs.

After this it was lunch time.Shared with a couple from Luxembourg,the chick with a gun and the Ship's naturalist.A really interesting time and great food again.After lunch the ship heads for Brasvellbreen-the largest glacier in the northern hemisphere with a face to the sea of 190km.
That is next.

 

[drron]

When you first see Brasvellbreen it is truly wonderful.Ice as far as you can see-

Sometimes the ice wall is high-

Sometimes it is breaking up-

But always spectacular especially when the sun briefly made an appearance-

Unfortunately the weather forecast doesn't improve.We had been going to steam north to a Russian settlement.It is only the second time this century that this Eastern channel has been open.The decision has been made to turn around and head for more sheltered waters.Of course as we turn and steam away the sun comes out and the wind drops-all be it for just a short time.

So we are feeling a bit sad when we head to dinner.Once again shared with the Californian couple and 2 English women to whom position is everything.They inform us that the single American with all the photo gear was an executive of Google when it went public.turned out to be true.Sold out and now concentrates on his love of Nature Photography.
tonight I have a seabass carpaccio,crab spring rolls and a Zarzuela-all washed down with a chablis.Finish with a cheese plate and a nice vintage port.Once again a very good sleep.It is amazing how well I am sleeping as it still does not get dark.Overnight we head back to the north of Svalbard to another glacier-Monacobreen.That is next.

 

[drron]

It was very good to get off the ship again and have a zodiac tour along Monacobreen-an actively calving and retreating glacier.A beautiful spot-

Lots of ice in the water on the trip to the glacier-

An impressive ice cave-

As we cruised along the glacier face a polar bear was spotted swimming.The Captain was in charge of one of the zodiacs and started stalking it-a real no no.

We had the Canadian bear quard who was not going to follow and rightly so.So even though we caught glimpses of the bear a photo was really out of the question.

Though when this cropped picture is blown up I can actually see it-but I know where to look on the Left border.
Halfway through the trip we were served champagne and choicolate covered strawberries-here we are enjoying the champagne.

Next some of mrsdrron's much better pics.

 

[drron]

Our strawberries and other goodies-

And our zodiac driver-

And some more ice shots-

Back to the ship and we were served hot cinnamon tea.Then of course there was the most difficult part of the day-lunch.Shared again with our Californian friends and an English couple who have retired to France.
After lunch back in the cabin I was downloading Mrsdrron's photos-to do this i have to take her memory card out.As I was downloading I glance up and see a pod of Mincke whales passing astern of the boat.Well no photo evidence but I have my memories.We then stopped at a group of islands where often polar bears are seen but none today.
At dinner we were on the table of the Expedition leader along with a different pair of Englishwomen who were very nice people.A really good nights conversation.We started with carpaccio of venison,crispy fried prawns,limoncello sorbet,osso buco.A Marlborough Sav Blanc and then a wonderful Bordeaux.
Next-another disappointment but we get on land again.

 

[drron]

We have relocated again overnight and the plan is to go ashore at Poolepynten,a known walrus haulout.We have an early breakfast,the weather is fine with the sun shining.However we cruise by Poolepynten and not a walrus to be seen so we sail on to St.Jonsfjord and go ashore.Many go on a 2 hour trek over the hill and see some reindeer.I decide my knee probably wouldn't cope so we walk along the shore.See plenty of evidence of animals with geese and reindeer scat plus reindeer,fox and bear tracks.A seal also comes in to check us out.The place is beautiful-

We also find some flowers surviving here-

Next Drron takes the plunge,literally.

 

[drron]

After returning to the boat came the polar plunge.Drron was mad enough to be one of the first volunteers.First they tie a rope to you.Mine was put on by the deputy expedition leader.I asked if she was experienced in tying men up and she assured me she was.So in i go-

Unfortunately the rope came off so rather than show off and swim around I made straight for the zodiac-

Back on board I was given a very nice Cognac.

Actually the plunge was very invigorating.This made my appetite even better for the next delicious lunch which was waiting after getting changed-shared this time with NYC lawyers and a couple from the Midlands of the UK.Most of the afternoon is spent looking for the elusive walrus to no avail.However the weather is beautiful and the backdrop magnificent.

interesting makeup of the pax-UK-19,Aust-17,China-15,US-14,switzerland-11.Next trip reported to be 35 Australians.
Next-last stop in Svalbad

 

[drron]

Dinner that night continued the great standard-lobster medallion,mushroom soup,prime rib and an awesome chocolate mousse.Once again a Marlborough SB and a French Burgundy.Dined with a couple from the UK and another couple from New Jersey.As such a beautiful day we went up on deck and chatted until past midnight.The photo of the sun in the last post was at midnight.Chatted with the ex Amazon exec and a fellow whose company manufactures airline seats-particularly CX.
Awoke the next morning off Bamsebu in Van Kealenfjord-an old Beluga whaling station in the early 1900s.Off the boat again.Piles of whale bones from the 1930's.Quite a few birds including pink footed geese and off in the distance reindeer.

Must go now mrsdrron getting a little ruffled.Missed my normal posting time yesterday due to the outage.
Next more disturbing pics.

 

[drron]

Interesting bear proofing of the hunters hut-

The new David Attenborough-

Remains of one of the whaling boats-

And the consequence of their activity-

And we all trudge back to the zodiacs for the last time on Svalbard-

As we start lunch the ship gets underway for Bear Island-which of course is known for its birds.It is 250 NM south.Lunch shared with the New Yorkers and Californians.Then back to the cabin for my nanny nap as the clouds roll in again.
Dinner we have by ourselves as it is Mrsdrron's birthday-she has hers in the Arctic and I will have mine in the Antarctic.I have the salmon tartare,fusilli puttanesca and veal medallions which are great.A sonoma chardy and a medoc with dinner.Finish with a cheese plate and port.
Next-A pleasant surprise.

 

[drron]

As I said it was mrsdrron's birthday-we had told none of the crew but they did have our passports.So on returning to the cabin we found-

And this-

And this-

They certainly put in some effort and mrsdrron was impressed.
We awoke as Bear Island came into sight.Weather cloudy,wind blowing and sea choppy.A couple of cargo vessels anchored here.A late breakfast befor getting into the Zodiacs.Our first view of the Island-

Bear Island is next.

 

[parsonstrish]

thanks drron, an amazing tr plus fantastic photos, thanks for sharing

 

[drron]

Although the zodiac ride was quite rough and we all got wet it was a good morning.Thousands of birds,although many more thousands had already left for winter.
so a few pics-

The results of a drunken Russian captain-

Next-the birds.

 

[drron]

These were taken on a point and shoot Sony camera from a lurching zodiac so I felt pretty good.Here are the birds-

This fellow had his eye on the camera.

After lunch it was once again my nanny nap as the ship heads for Tromso.Boy am I sleeping well.tonight is the Captain's farewell dinner and we are on the table of the ship's Hotel Director and the Archeologist along with 2 USAAF colonels and their 14 year old son.An interesting conversation all around.
Dinner was crab timbale,foie gras,beef wellington with a Sancerre and Sangiovese to wash them down.Finished off in the bar for some final post dinner drinks.Tomorrow is the end of this adventure when we arrive in Tromso.
That next.

 

[drron]

It is amazing.Before we took to our beds the birds were still following the boat-probably 100km from land-

awaking early we spotted land about 0630-

We then sailed through the fjords to Tromso-quite some distance and we didn't dock in Tromso until 1400.The fjords here are not that spectacular but still beautiful with many small settlements-

Before we docked there was our last lunch buffet.After that a tour of Tromso was part of the deal.With only 120 pax it was not too bad.First stop was the Botanical gardens.There was a wedding about to take place.The car was an old Cadillac-looked just a little out of place-

After walking around the gardens we watched the guests arriving many in traditional dress.Then we were off to a lake above Tromso-the birds were here again.

across from the lake was a Sami(Lapp)kindergarten-

complete with symbols.
Then off to town and the Polar museum.That next.

 

[drron]

The Polar museum in Tromso is on the Harbour.Not large but certainly of interest.A fair bit of whaling memorabilia outside.

Taken by mrsdrron.The fellow whose head the harpoon is aimed at is drron.Hmmm.

But at least we saw a walrus!

And a view across the harbour to the Arctic Cathedral.

And a view up the harbour.

The museum has interesting neighbours-

After the museum it was over the harbour to the Arctic Cathedral.That next.

 

[docjames]

Taken by mrsdrron.The fellow whose head the harpoon is aimed at is drron.Hmmm.

.

Holiday going that well???


Again, great photos and a great TR!

 

[drron]

Actually doc going very well.Maybe it was the fact that a bird was making a move on me in that photo.Here she is-

But back to the Arctic Chapel.Impressive especially considering Tromso's size-

With great views back to the city-

Of course SimonM we got to see the Northern Lights-

Ok as you know just a photo of a photo in the Cathedral.In early August though the Lights put on a fantastic display in southern Scandinavia-not Tromso as it was then still 24hour sunlight.It is on my bucket list as well.
After the Cathedral we were dropped off in town.

 

[samh004]

Loving the photos. Was meant to be asleep but I just couldn't stop catching up on all the photos and descriptions. It sounds fantastic!

 

[SimonM]

Of course SimonM we got to see the Northern Lights-

Ok as you know just a photo of a photo in the Cathedral.

That's still better than I got drron!