First time to South America

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kiwitripper64

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First attempt at TR & first time in South America. The plan is AKL to San Pedro de Atacama. Then on to Buenos Aires for a week. Up to Iguacu and finishing in Santiago. Lots of different air bookings, hotels and government requirements that change.
Day 1 AKL-SCL-CJC.
Arrived at the airport. Checkin medium busy But no one in aJ line. Bags checked in and we were told we could just pick them up in Calama. We did question about customs but staff adamant we didn’t need to do anything until Calama.
Security was super fast and off to the lounge. As we booked QF code share we had the choice of Strata or QF. We saw the EK lounge was open as well, but didn’t have the courage to try.
The Strata lounge is large, well lit with views of runway. The food was average wind and beers were average but it wasn’t crowded. We then swapped and went to the F lounge. The staff are super friendly food was average but there was cold bubbly.
The lamb flight out was the last QF flight of the evening. We went down to board. The boarding was a little late but reasonably efficient. There was no predinner drinks. Seating is 2 2 2. The seats were a little strange very open with the Tv On the seat in front a long way away. There is not a lot of space for personal belongings in the seat around you.
The flight is only 10 hours so the crew were Keen to get meals done quickly. Reasonable options but all served on the one tray. I suppose this saves both covid contact and time. The entertainment system was reasonable with a good selection of movies and TV mostly available and English. I was waiting for breakfast in the morning that had been pre-ordered with about two hours before landing. This was a good amount of time to eat and prepared. We landed approximately on time and went searching for our luggage.
After immigration we had to collect luggage before customs. LATAM must be using the QF system as this took forever. The it was easy to find the LATAM desk to drop of the bag and get to T2, a 10 min walk. T
 

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Part 2
It was a nice 10 min walk from T1to T2 domestic. We had a bit of a moment when we tried to get local money from a machine. The first 2 wouldn’t cooperate. By. machine 3 a sense of anxiety was emanating and service as usual. There doesn’t seem to be a LATAM lounge here, but Starbucks have a nice seating area.
The departure time for Calama kept changing but we finally boarded the A321. Y+ was comfortable with the middle seat blocked and good legroom. There is a power point with easy access. About an hour into the flight we were offered a snack and drink.
Finally AA river into Calama. It’s a small airport but busy due to mining. We got the bag, found our driver and took off for San Pedro de Atacama. This I only took an hour and I suspect speed signs were only used as a guide.
We are staying at hotel kimal. It’s a pleasant room and after a quick supper, it’s of to bed for an early start tomorrow
 

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Oops, got the photos out of order
 

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I did a shore excursion from Antofagasta to San Pedro de Atacama. Our bus stopped at CJC for a comfort break. It was surprising to see such a new airport in the middle of nowhere. No flights happening when we were there, so it was just our tour buses using the facilities in a deserted airport - a little surreal.
 
Day 2
We have organised a 2 day tour with Jorge at Altiplano travel. We had a 7.30 breakfast booked with an 8.30 departure. Alarms on iPhones set, woke up and no one at the restaurant. We found a groundskeeper and it seems the local time has not gone to daylight savings. My iPhone disputes this and has done all day. The locals don’t care.
So we finally met Jorge. We had a great day, but I can’t remember the names of the placeds we went. But he organised the trip so we missed all the other tourist. We had a great lunch sitting by the car with amazing views and no people.
Back to town, a much needed shower and the we had a walk around town. There isn’t much here, the tourists haven’t returned yet. Everyone we met has been friendly and we finished with a meal at Adobe.
 

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Day 3
Jorge was ready for us at 8am for the trip to the Altiplano. The advice was to dress and it was good advice. We got up to 4,800m and I think we were at an average of 3,800. There was frozen rivers, still snow on the side of the roads in places and the wind was ferocious. It does your head in, watching flamingoes in a desert at 3C. You keep thinking it should be hot.
Jorge was amazing again. We found 2 lagoons with flamingos that had just returned, flocks of Guanaco and scenery that went on forever. It was a big day and completely unexpected.
Back at the hotel and reality is back to normal with discussions on toilets not flushing and no hot water. Both now hopefully resolved which leaves LATAM and the constantly changing flight times. We will sort that tomorrow, still on a high from the altiplano
 

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I love South America, going back for the 6th time in a few weeks, albeit to go to Antarctica. When i was in San Pedro de Atacama, I crossed over from the Uyuni slat flats in Bolivia on a 3 day 2 night 4WD trip. It was freezing at altitude, but San Pedro de Atacama felt like a luxury after the basic accomodation in Bolivia!
 
Day 4
After multiple LATAM messages changing our flight times back and foward, we finally left San Pedro de Atacama for Calama airport. Driving during daylight makes you appreciate how much elevation is gained going to San Pedro.
Calama airport is nice with a very open feel. We got some help checking in wth a flight to SCL-EZE.
The flight started boarding a little late, but did leave about the original ETD. Get the A seats on the way to SCL for mountain views. Once again we were in Y+. This gives first call at boarding which was enforced. There was good legroom and the middle seat was blocked. The flight was roughly 2 hours and we were offered a hot roll and drinks, including alcohol. There is no Tv screen but LATAM did advertise in flight entertainment on your device. I didn’t try it.
After an uneventful landing we went to immigration. There looked to be about 30 booths, but at 1.50pm only 4 were operating. Suddenly at 2, it appeared lunch was over and 5 more opened.
We weren’t sure of LATAM lounge rules. There is no QF recognition anymore but we were Y+ to EZE. We were welcomed into the Signature lounge. It’s nice and calm with a good food selection and a very charismatic barista who makes great coffee. Great bathrooms and they have showers. Thu unusual item was no alcohol in that lounge. There is another LATAM lounge next to the signature lounge, but we didn’t go.
Boarded the A320 200 to EZE. Another comfortable flight with good service. It was funny, with 12Y+ seats 6 were Qantas flyers.
An easy arrival into EZE, 10 min to get through immigration, the bag with a priority tag came out quickly, we got a non-taxi with set fare and have arrive at the hotel. Buenos Aires , here we come
 

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Day 5.
A brisk morning and after a hearty hotel breakfast, we set of for a bike tour of Buenos Aires with Rental Bike Argentina. We had a great day, around 25km of flat riding. The ride around Boca Jnr stadium was special as they had a game today and all the supporters were out with street parties. All good fun at 11am, but with the huge numbers of police, you got the feet it could go bad.
Being Sunday, the traffic was light and everyone gave us plenty of space.
We finished with a walk around one of the Sunday markets. Same the world around, leather belts, cups , craftwork etc.
So back the the hotel to freshen up for diner. A very satisfying day
 

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Enjoying this TR -- bringing back many happy memories of travels in South America. Like @justin23 above we were travelling down from Bolivia and stayed in San Pedro de Atacama after visiting the Salar de Uyuni. I clearly remember the warmth of a comfy bed in San Pedro after the many days of freezing temperatures we had experienced before that!

Buenos Aires is one of my favourite cities in the world. La Boca can certainly be a lively area -- try to see a game at La Bombonera if you have a chance. Amazing experience. We went with a local tour company who escorted us in and out of the stadium.

Also strongly recommend a restaurant called La Cabrera in Palermo. Some of the best steak I've ever had (although you can't really go wrong anywhere on that front in Argentina). bife de lomo -- served jugoso -- was my cut of choice...
 
Day 6
Laundry stop. How mundane. Then lots of walking, finishing with a walking tour of Recoleta cemetery. Strange to see when the annual fee isn’t paid, the tombs are not maintained.
Ended the evening with a large group dinner on the waterfront in San Telmo
 

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Day 7
Got a bit delayed on emails and missed the walking tour by 10 min. So we had a walk by ourselves, just soaking up central BA.Finished with dinner at Fogon Asada, a fantastic Argentine degustation
 

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Day 8
Spent a quiet morning just out strolling and sampling coffee. Met up with the Mrs for lunch, then she wanted to see Recollata cemetery. Then I wandered down to see El Atenio bookstore. What a shop, I hope it survives. Finished the afternoon packing the suitcase and taking it to the hotel we will stay at on our overnight return to BA.
Just completed the NZ traveller declaration. The wonderful govt has stopped covid restrictions but kept this piece of inane double entry waste of time nonsense. Bah.
Off for dinner with an early start on our first Aerolineas flight ever.
 

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Day 8
Spent a quiet morning just out strolling and sampling coffee. Met up with the Mrs for lunch, then she wanted to see Recollata cemetery. Then I wandered down to see El Atenio bookstore. What a shop, I hope it survives. Finished the afternoon packing the suitcase and taking it to the hotel we will stay at on our overnight return to BA.
Just completed the NZ traveller declaration. The wonderful govt has stopped covid restrictions but kept this piece of inane double entry waste of time nonsense. Bah.
Off for dinner with an early start on our first Aerolineas flight ever.
loved BA - how did I miss that bookstore?
 
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Day 9
Early start to AEP for Aerolineas flight to Iguacu.
Simple machine check in with no luggage. The off the the gate where we waited. Boarding was finally called 40 min late and seemed to be enforced by your boarding group. Seat 5 was gp 4, so last to board. 737-700. Adequate but not comfy. The crew came around with free sofa, water and coffee.
5a had good views over the vast Argentine country and some tantalising hints of the falls on arrival.
We had a driver waiting and were straight in the road to the hotel for AR2,500. The O2 Iguacu is located downtown by the river. The staff were really helpful and booked us the tickets to the Argentine side of the falls for tomorrow. Then Manuel, our airport driver watsapped me offering his services. So having all the plans ready we went for a walk.
There is lots of renovation work being done. I think they are expecting the tourists to return. Still lots of shops shut but a good feel for the town.
We ended up at the the Trito Tres Fronteras, the border of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Then back to the hotel to the rooftop for drinks and a meal with the sunset
 

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Day 10
All excited now. Off to Iguacu falls. Manuel arrived on time and told us to message him when we were ready to leave Iguacu to come home, so that’s all sorted. Tickets booked and carrying ID. We got in and went straight to the Jungle Adventure tour desk to book the river trip. AR11,000pp. We got in the 10.30 tour and waited for 20 min. It did seem popular and you might have to wait a bit if you got there later. That’s a bit of a problem if you are half way around a circuit when your tours about to leave,
We got herded onto a truck and drove of through the jungle for about 3km. At the stop we saw a Toucan. Then you go down lots of stairs to the river. You are given dry bags. At this point you should consider modesty over practicality. You are about to get soaked. And no one cares if you aren’t wearing a shirt under the life jacket. And definitely take shoes off.
The boat goes up though a few rapids, slows to go past the Brazilian wharf, with obligatory jeers, the onto the falls. It was amazing with lots of time for photos, then we are told to put all cameras away as we go into the wash. It’s a complete sensory overload. Full of sound and water and you can’t see anything.
We returned back to the wharf, were delivered back to the park and had an overpriced lukewarm burger, Not unexpected really. Captive audience and all. End of part 1
 

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Went there years ago but stayed on the Brazil side at the Hotel das Cataratas within the park. Short walk to the falls!
 
Day 10 part 2
The train takes you up to Garganta del Diablo. It’s free, but you need a ticket which you get at the train station. It’s open carriages and the ride up was packed. All a little strange to be that close in the covid era. At the top there is a 1km walk over the river and islands to the Garganta del Diablo. Words fail here. Lots of water over a cliff. And noise.
Back to the train then off on the superior trail. This was my favourite, lots of jungle, the around the corner another waterfall. Just stunning. We then went down to the inferior circuit. More stunning scenery. Our timing was perfect as they had closed the circuit for entry by the time we left.
We contacted Manuel and back to the hotel for a well earned beer
 

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Day 11.
Manuel agreed to take us to Brazil side of the falls. His car broke and he sent a sub. All conversations done via the translation app.
There was a 20min queue to get to the border. When you arrive, you wind down the window and hand over the passports without leaving the car. The we drove for 10 min and stopped, got out of the car and showed passports and covid vaccine certification and we were in Brazil.
Another 30 min down the road gets us to the Brazilian falls entrance. From there you catch a bus. The first stop is the boat ride, the second stop is the falls walk and the third stop is for disabled access.
The Brazil side is completely different from the Argentina side. Yesterday we were walking around and through the falls. Today we got to see them in their entirety. We were really glad we did both.
The falls walk and bus tour takes around 2.5 hours.
On the trip back the same process with one difference. A tailback started about 2km from the border. Our driver went in the inside and passed everyone. It probably saved us 30-60 min.
Lunch at a Mexican outdoor cantina then back to the hotel where we had checked out and lady our bags. They offered us the spa to shower and change. What a pleasant way to finish
Arrived at the airport 2 hours pre departure. People waiting and no checkin staff. We checked in online and then went to security. They were on siesta and were surprised to see passengers but let us through.
Bad coffee at the gate. The flight seems to be on time.
Just a thought, am I getting old? I went into the toilet and a young man was at the urial with both hands on his phone. I’m not sure of the mechanics, is this some technique shared by twitter?
Flight1735 IGR-AEP was due to leave at 7.10pm. I like their boarding technique. Your ticket has a group number with group 1 at the back of the plane. This works well and is enforced. Skyteam elites allowed to board at anytime. Flight was a 737 with 2 rows business class, actual nice wide chairs in 2x2. Further back it was standard economy seating. The flight left 30 min late but arrived on time. But no gate, we got the bus tour.
The taxi service was interesting. You are met in the line and scan a QR code, the taxi app pops up and you can choose English. Add your address, passengers and bags and it gives you a quote.
Arrived at our Palermo hotel, walkies then bed
 

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