First trip to South Africa - ideas and tips?

[vetrade]

I know there have been a variety of TRs about southern Africa but can't recall seeing specific references to what I'm after so apologies in advance for hijacking this thread...............

Will be in Victoria Falls over the coming New Year and, in line with my usual pedantic ways, I am in the process of crossing all the "t"s and dotting the "i"s - presently it's chopper flights over the falls. Would be grateful if someone with recent experience could clarify my queries about the various operators. It seems that Shearwater Adventures, Zambezi Helicopters and Bonisair might be essentially the same outfit and use Bell choppers. Is that correct? Then I came across United Air Charter which apparently operates Eurocopters from near Livingstone (which look the same as the Eurostars in use at the Grand Canyon to me). UAC's prices appear to be about 10% higher than Shearwater's but it seems a modest premium to pay for a chopper which has much better visibility.

Is there a preference for am or pm flights due to possible sun glare, wind strength etc?

Secondly, reviews I have read have very scant mention of big cat sightings on the game drives. Are there any lodges / game drives in the VF area which have a greater possibility of seeing lions and other apex predators?

Would appreciate any comments people might care to make.

 

[lovetravellingoz]

Secondly, reviews I have read have very scant mention of big cat sightings on the game drives. Are there any lodges / game drives in the VF area which have a greater possibility of seeing lions and other apex predators?

Would appreciate any comments people might care to make.

Yes VF is not the place to try and spot cats in the actual wild. At least in any of the natural game reserves. If you want to see cats there you will have to go to one of 'petting' zoos like Lion Encounter

 

[JohnM]

I know there have been a variety of TRs about southern Africa but can't recall seeing specific references to what I'm after so apologies in advance for hijacking this thread...............

Will be in Victoria Falls over the coming New Year and, in line with my usual pedantic ways, I am in the process of crossing all the "t"s and dotting the "i"s - presently it's chopper flights over the falls. Would be grateful if someone with recent experience could clarify my queries about the various operators. It seems that Shearwater Adventures, Zambezi Helicopters and Bonisair might be essentially the same outfit and use Bell choppers. Is that correct? Then I came across United Air Charter which apparently operates Eurocopters from near Livingstone (which look the same as the Eurostars in use at the Grand Canyon to me). UAC's prices appear to be about 10% higher than Shearwater's but it seems a modest premium to pay for a chopper which has much better visibility.

Is there a preference for am or pm flights due to possible sun glare, wind strength etc?

Secondly, reviews I have read have very scant mention of big cat sightings on the game drives. Are there any lodges / game drives in the VF area which have a greater possibility of seeing lions and other apex predators?

Would appreciate any comments people might care to make.

I was in VFA about three weeks ago. Didn't do a helo flight as I had done one on my first visit about 9 years ago, plus circuits over the falls in a light aircraft during my E African aerial safari two years ago.

My helo flight was in the morning, as I was leaving around noon. Just thinking back three weeks, the sun was setting over the Zambezi pretty much straight upriver (ie. above the falls). On that basis, I'd say do a morning flight.

Let me just say that the sound of helos is constant over VFA . Can't comment on the operators, but I'm sure they are all good as the place is tourist central and the action is intense. The place is also very benign nowadays in terms of vendors not overtly hassling.

Make sure to do a sunset cruise on the Zambezi. Again, I'm sure all operators are good; they need to be - it's competitive. I went on Zambezi Explorer. Tried to get Signature Deck but it was full, so went for Luxury Deck. It was superb - very good canapes and wine all included in the price, as is pickup from your hotel, and an excellent, very sharp, crew. They maneuver for perfect sunset photos. Couldn't fault it. That was a more 'formal' style, but there are plenty of options ranging from very small to quite large (Zambezi Explorer is probably the largest) and 'party boats'.

I might add that the cafe/restaurant just inside the falls park entry gate is very good for a casual lunch. Try the crocodile tail wrap .

Of course, also visit the Victoria Falls Hotel for a very classic taste of the British colonial empire. I'm not into high tea but some travel companions were raving about it.

Also bear in mind that it will be wet season and the falls may be cranking. If so, the spray can obliterate views on the Zim (VFA) side. Under those conditions, the Zambian side is considered better - but you'll still get drenched, so rent a poncho.

 

[Milboo]

VICTORIA FALLS FLIGHT OF ANGELS | HELICOPTER CHARTERS | FLIGHT OPTIONS

We went with these guys but took the longer flight which I'd recommend.

We stayed in the national park and did a few game drives and definitely no cats and limited other animals to be honest. Our main elephant sightings were on the river.

 

[vetrade]

Appreciate the feedback lovetravellingoz, JohnM and Milboo.

 

[Flying mermaid]

We're also tossing up doing a Dec/Jan trip (school aged kids).. have been told its a terrible/good time to visit

good for the Cape and wine lands, not so good for game reserves and Vic Falls. Perhaps two visits? There are some good game reserves in the Cape as well, so you could do Vineyards, Cape Town and the Garden route and a game reserve in Dec/Jan. Then another trip to do game reserves - if you could manage 3 weeks with the kids in say July school holidays, you could do some private ones in South Africa and Botswana/Okavango. If you get the bug you can then add in a third trip to Rwanda and East Africa . Not sure where Vic Falls fits in, as best time is March - May

 

[Flying mermaid]

Not far from Sun City is this great place :

Facilities – Ukutula

Ukutula has been implicated in some pretty dubious practices, including supplying the canned hunting industry -I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole.

http://www.bloodlions.org/us-volunteer-speaks-out-cubs-hired-for-parties-and-events-ukutula/

 

[pootle]

Can def recommend staying at sun city, so much going on there, the rooms were fantastic. Remember there are 2parts to the resort and different in cost and experience, you can do a "safari" out from sun city where they have cats, you can also go and meet the elephants at the sanctuary they have there. have stayed at various lodges, loved Botswana stayed in a fantastic one just out of the border which had amazing hides inc an underground one to see the elephants.

 

[Flying mermaid]

For anyone visiting Southern Africa you have to really think about what sort of tourist you are. If you just want to tick the boxes and don't care much about your impact, then fine you can take part in anything.

If you do care, then it can be a bit of a minefield. Everyone claims to be helping conservation, they even have volunteers who come and help at their outfits. Slowly many of them are being exposed for what they are and increasingly volunteer organisations won't deal with them. Lions and elephants are particularly at risk.

They claim the Cubs are orphaned or that lionesses are bad mothers. In fact lionesses are force bred (aka puppy farming), taken away far too early for petting/lion walking. Almost all then end up shot in canned hunting, or feed the lion bone trade. (Hard to get tiger bones for Asian medicines, but lions are just as strong, so just as good for medicines). NO lions are released into the wild. The game reserves won't take them, because they are scared of introducing genetic weaknesses and also the lions are habituated to people so more likely to attack them. ALERT and its sister organisations have been on stage 2 of their program for years, but don't seem to ever move further and these days just make lots of money out of Lion encounters (Zimbabwe and Zambia). Some lions are placed in sanctuaries, but these are very few - basically South Africa is awash in badly bred lions and there is only one end for them. Lion Park near Johannesburg was selling to the canned hunting trade and subject to an expose last year. They claim now to have cleaned up their act - don't know if that is true or not.

Cheetah patting at somewhere like Hoedspruit is OK, as it is very limited and only allowed with their breeding cheetahs. No baby petting, or of cheetahs to be released.

Elephant riding is becoming popular and many of the places keep their elephants in appaling conditions. Catching wild elephants in order to provide rides for tourists is pretty dubious. One place that we have found that is OK is Camp Jabulani. They are tied to Hoedspruit endangered species centre. Their Elephant herd came from a herd that already existed in Zimbabwe and was about to be destroyed. They rescued it and the only additions are natural breeding, or the occasional abandoned baby. Guests get the evening ride, but you can book on morning rides even if you don't stay there.

 

[Flying mermaid]

Half decent African article in the paper today No Cookies | Escape

Summer v Winter...

I am sure you know this, but just in case.....Cape Town and surroundings have a Mediterranean climate. I.e it is wet in winter and dry in summer. So it will be ideal for the time you want to go, but terrible at the peak period for the main game reserves. Ellerman House in Bantry Bay would be your sort of accommodation - apart from hotel rooms, they also had two villas for families. It was costing us about $6 to uber to where we wanted to go (they do have a driver, but it was easier to just uber and not fiddle around). You would love their wine cellar! If you are interested I can find the name of a good game reserve down there - I know my brother recommended one to us, but we ended up deciding to go to Botswana instead.

 

[amaroo]

good for the Cape and wine lands, not so good for game reserves and Vic Falls. Perhaps two visits? There are some good game reserves in the Cape as well, so you could do Vineyards, Cape Town and the Garden route and a game reserve in Dec/Jan. Then another trip to do game reserves - if you could manage 3 weeks with the kids in say July school holidays, you could do some private ones in South Africa and Botswana/Okavango. If you get the bug you can then add in a third trip to Rwanda and East Africa . Not sure where Vic Falls fits in, as best time is March - May

Thanks FM Pretty much matches what I've managed to learn via google.

 

[SYD]

klaserie

Yes, that was my concern when the other half thought it would be a good time given that we both would be off work anyway.... Mind you, the primary idea was to go to CPT. But even that is super busy!

We were in Mexico when we booked the QF Sale - not really having a plan or checking availability! On return home, my worst fears were being realised. Anyway, it seems to have worked out.

JNB for 2 nights
Self drive to Kruger - three nights at Lodge. Would have stayed there for Christmas, but availability disappeared before my eyes... :evil:
Fly to VFA for two nights.
Fly to CPT and drive to the wine country for 2 nights.
Finish up in CPT for about a week before heading home.

Ok. So been back from SA one week - work is already crazy and I've not had time to provide feedback! I took a bunch of notes on useful tips/traps for travellers and will try and capture them here. I doubt I'll get a chance to write a full TR.

In summary, if you haven't been, do make a priority to get SA on your Bucket List! Even though it was Peak Season and lots of long queues: immigration in/out, Table Mountain (3hrs...), we had a great time.

First timers, do JNB first (tick) - it all gets better afterwards and no need to return (other than transiting). One day on the two Hop On/Off bus loops is sufficient... During the trip I pondered if we should have gone directly to VFA or CPT and seen JNB last? My partner put it quite eloquently: "When you're enjoying I nice meal of perfectly cooked duck breast, you should always keep a small mouthful to last - so your final memory isn't a bit of steamed carrot!"

Kruger (well our Private Lodge in Klaserie) was great. With School Holidays, we didn't even try and go into Kruger proper - an excuse to go back! But even though it was becoming quite green and harder to spot things we saw the "Big 5" and then some. Probably not in the quantity that you might in Kruger, but certainly very up close and personal!

Vic Falls - one off the bucket list. Dec/Jan is still quite dry (April apparently is the peak flow). So no risk of not seeing it from the Zim side. In fact, the Zam side was unfortunately underwhelming for the falls although diverse vistas nonetheless. If the opportunity presents itself to go back in the full wet season, I would, but I'm not going out of my way to do it. A side trip to Botswana (park) in hindsight would have been good - I didn't know about the new multi county / multi visit visas now available on arrival :evil:...

Wine Country - greatest regret was not staying longer in Franschhoek! Stunning location, lovely town and great food and wine. Stellenbosch might have the reputation (and lots of good wineries around it) but the town itself was large and underwhelming. Think Goulbourn v Bowral... Gawler v Lyndoch etc.

Cape Town was indeed jumping. Heaving in fact. Lots to do and see around there. Happily go back tomorrow for another bite of "duck breast" Yes, a week was probably one or two days more than needed - could have been better spent tasting more top notch wine @R125 (12 bucks 50 a bottle!).

Over the weekend, I'll try and write up those tips/traps and other useful traveller info.

Thanks for previous inputs and ideas. Hopefully my eventual detailed feedback will be useful!

PS
Not a bad status / mileage haul BTW. Flights and accommodation. Standout was 2x60 VA SCs on SA J CPT-JNB (family pooling) for $300 on top of the QF J SYD-JNB fare! And 40k IHG in one stay!

 

[vetrade]

..........Vic Falls - one off the bucket list. Dec/Jan is still quite dry (April apparently is the peak flow). So no risk of not seeing it from the Zim side. In fact, the Zam side was unfortunately underwhelming for the falls although diverse vistas nonetheless. If the opportunity presents itself to go back in the full wet season, I would, but I'm not going out of my way to do it. A side trip to Botswana (park) in hindsight would have been good - I didn't know about the new multi county / multi visit visas now available on arrival :evil:... ..........

We were in Vic Falls just over a week ago and one advantage over the peak wet season is that at this time of year you can take a boat + swim from the Royal Livingstone Hotel to the Devil's Pool right on the edge of the Falls. Quite exhilarating. Chopper rides give you a great perspective of the Falls - we only did the 15 min flight but that was long enough to see everything we wanted to. As has been pointed out there are seasonal variations so there's no one perfect time to visit.

We stayed at a safari lodge (Imbabala) in Zimbabwe which fronts the Zambezi River and is also right on the border with Botswana. This is their quiet time of year and one night we were the only guests so it felt very private. On the game drives we saw large herds of buffalo, giraffe and elephants up close plus hippos and many of the smaller game like impala and zebra including the very rare Sable (a type of antelope). The animals roam freely across the Zim / Bots border which is unfenced. Even saw a lioness a couple of times with her 2 cubs. Much bigger animal numbers than we saw last year in Kruger so the offerings can vary quite a lot between places. It's well worth the effort to stay somewhere which has game drives no matter where in Africa you go.