From the Mersey to the Mekong.

[drron]

Friday and another early start.0600 for brekkie.It is our wedding anniversary and the staff wish us a happy anniversary as we enter.0630 and into the car and off to Ta Prohm.nearly every one recognises this one.In fact there is still evidence of Tomb raiders with camera positions in a large tree laft.Again this temple was originally going to be left unrestored but now the Indian government is funding the restoration.initially many of these temples were hindu.
As we arrive there are a couple of groups of young kids singing-very direct-Money sir?When we are leaving they have been replaced by the professionals.

 

[drron]

Ta Prohm continued-

it was now just after 0800 and we were about to leave when the first tour group arrived-3 busloads of Taiwanese-boy did the atmosphere change.We get back in the car and head 40km to Banteay Sreay-already quite a few there but no tour groups yet-cant be early for everything though.
That next.

 

[drron]

Banteay srey is certainly a different style and was built~200 years before Angkor Wat.It is also a smaller temple-

As we were nearing the end of our time here the Taiwanese turned up.couldnt have spent much time at Ta Prohm-probably on a See All of the Temples in a day tour.
You are guided to leave by a different route.There is a gallery giving the history of the site.one of the interesting facts was the frenchman who in 1923 was convicted for stealing statues from here to sell to collectors.His fate in France-he became Minister for Culture!
The exit goes through a collection of stalls with again all the cheap souvenirs.Again we found the Cambodians much easier to deal with than the Vietnamese.you could distract them.for example i asked a young girl if she made her"silk"scarves-she giggled and then talked about her school etc.She said her name was Lena-in fact every young girl I met outside a temple said their name was Lena!
The drive to and from Banteay Srey is nice-through lots of little villages.Signs everywhere for the Camdodian Peoples Party-Hun Sen.Also lots of signs from America re donating clean water equipment.One simply said donated by Sally Kellerman-wow I could meet Hot Lips here?
As we are driving back Sohan suggests a diversion to Banteay Samre-another small temple that the French restored in the 1920s.
That is next.

 

[drron]

There were not many people at Banteay Samre.It appeared only 1 family of hawakers.Once again the little girl was called Lena.

After this we went back to the LM and decided to take it easy for the rest of the day.We gave Sohan an early mark-he was upset initially thinking we were upset and wanted to take us to the floating village or anywhere so that we got our moneys worth.Eventually convinced him we were more than satisfied with his services.
back at the LM I succumb to an early nanny nap-it is just after 1100.
Next-more yummy food pictures.

 

[drron]

We decided to have lunch at the LM.3 courses for lunch with taxes were~$A15.We doubled that by adding 2 glasses wine and 2 large beers.I started with a Khmer Papaya salad with prawns-very well presented and fantastic flavours-

I then had a green curry chicken again really nice tastes-

then a spicy lemongrass sorbet with kaffir lime icecream-really nice and refreshing-

Mrsdrron started with a Caesar salad-said it was the second best she has had-

She then had a penne carbonnara which she was happy with followed by a mango icecream which had a delightful mango taste-

Once again the waiters wished us a happy anniversary.After lunch mrsdrron succumbed to her nanny nap so I read the Phnom Penh post.Plenty about Mr.Thaksin being feted in Cambodia.Thailand's political problems are not over..
Next our dinner at what we are told is the best restaurant in Siem Reap.

 

[drron]

Tonight is our wedding anniversary.We have been reccomended Sugar Palm.Owned by a French woman but run by a Kiwi with young Cambodians as servers.got a tuk tuk down.cost an extra dollar to have him wait to take us back when we have finished dinner.The restaurant is upstairs and the menu is local food.Now mrsdrron doesn't go for spicy food and we are assured that the dishes aren't.Two however turn out to be quite spicy.
We have the beef and basil-very spicy-

Amok-fish in coconut cream-also spicy-

And a Khmer fried rice-OK

We had started with a green mango salad and lemongrass marinated beef skewers.Both non spicy and nice.With a bottle of NZ Sav blanc-$US45-so same price as the LM and we preferred the LM food.
Tuk tuk back to the LM.not only were our coconut maccaroons waiting for us but also a Cambodian souvenir-

And a fruit plate-

As well as a beautiful white chocololate cream cake for our anniversary-

Next-final tips on Siem reap and its temples.

 

[drron]

Tips.First is go early to the temples.You can start ~0500 but we found leaving at 0630 was fine.at most temples the light is better early in the morning.
Major exception-Angkor Wat itself.Go from ~1230-1300 and leave~1430.
If you buy the temple pass after 1700 it is valid the next day.pricesare-
1 day-$US20,3 days-$US40,7 days-$US60.

Get a good driver-they make up for the extra you will pay over renting a tuk tuk.not to mention the relief of an Air con car on a humid hot day.Cars-$US30 a day.Tuktuks-$US15 a day.

Have just got home and found our drivers card-name is actually Sovan-driver B67.He was very good value with his advice and his English was quite reasonable.he certainly didnt try to rip us off-though like everyone in asia if you ask advice about shopping you will be taken to stores that give the biggest kickback-he wasnt upset when we said no to his shopping suggestions.his email is sonavy_cambodia(at)yahoo.com

If you are older with d*cky knees dont worry.You cant see everything but what we saw was more than enough.There are other things to do such as the floating villages and quad biking so you coud certainly fill several days.

Get a good guide book-ours again was Angkor by Dawn rooney-an older book(but hey the ruins dont change that much) but excellent.As I said before the guides we saw seemed to be quoting from this book.We were glad with our arrangement and felt better off without a guide-we could go at our own pace whereas those with guides seemed to be doing the guides tour.Our book had maps,what not to miss and tips on where to get the best views.Guides are $US16 per half day.

Handicrafts.now i am a cynic but silver bracelets we saw in a shop labelled as made by"poor women and orphans" were exactly the same as those we saw in Quito,Ecuador made by"disadvantaged Indian tribes of Ecuador".Cambodian silk in the markets is much more likely to be chinese acrylic.One shop that seemed genuine but more expensive was Artisans angkor.They also had a shop at the airport and prices were the same.

From the GM at the LM the restaurants recomended in town(ie those with the fewest reports of diarrhoea) Khmer kitchen,Central cafe,Sugar palm,picassos-spanish tapas and if homesick the fish and chip shop next to the Angkor Market on Oum Khun street.The owner is Cambodian but lived in Sylvania Waters for many years.

do consider the LM-sure I have status with SPG but the staff and the food amazing as are the grounds.On a Z3R rate(available to anyone) it was just over $100 a night.Sure you can stay a lot cheaper but I really dont think it is worh it.

Remember to keep $US25 each for the departure tax.And do take $US with a lot of small denomination bills.

Final tip-go soon,the place is being overrun by tourists.

 

[drron]

Saturday and our last day at the LM.Our only problem encountered this morning-tried to access the internet but the whole of Siem reap is apparently down.It is $2 for an hour or $5 for 3 hours.
A late breakfast for a change.As we leave the staff line up and say their goodbyes-as I have said absolutely fantastic service.Check out is a breeze and soon in our taxi to the airport.Checkin is open with no queue.pay our tax and through security and immigration.Sitting in the departure lounge by 1105.Mrsdrron goes off to the "Duty Fry"store.I notice the Cafe advertises Chinese,Italian,japanese and basic "noods".
Rush hour at REP-MH,VN and PG planes land then a Cambodian air.Paper that morning said they were doing test flights for certification using VN's certificate as cambodia is still on the Euro black list.Any way we are put on to a bus to be taken the 100 metres to the plane.The MH pax are walking.There is a Vietnamese tour group-mainly old men with young women in 6 inch heels and not much else.Now there is a shambles as we reach the steps to the plane-Asians and queueing dont go together but size combined with the womens instability mean we are amongst the first to board.Seats 7A,B.
VN868.REP-LPQ.ETD-1250.Push back1248.Take off-1254.
ETA-1355.Actual-1410.
Fokker 70.15 rows of 2-3 and 2 more of 2-2.exit row is 10.As we are about to taxi for takeoff a fellow gets up to go to the loo despite the crews protests hence a couple of minutes wait until we do take off.Not much room-certainly less than PG-

A small snack is served-a cup of water,a cup of yoghurt and a Vietnamese roll of processed meat and lettuce-not very appetising.Should have gone with the Noods!

The real show though comes when we make our descent into LPQ and the seat belt sign comes on.The Vietnamese tour group take this as a signal to get up and swap seats,recline seats and put tray tables down.the crew do nothing.Mr 7D has his seat belt off.when we land his head makes forceful contact with 6D.Whilst still on the runway a fellow is up to go to the loo and most others are emptying the overheads.I get up as soon as the seat belt sign goes off.A fellow barrels into my back and pushes mrsdrron back into her seat.I merely cough my arm and the fool then runs straight into my elbow-really.He and his 2 women friends then try to push me out of the way.At 100kg they have no chance.I turn around and give them the stare-they decide to back off.
As it turns out the Vietnamese group is just transitting-what the!
Next-Luang Prabang.

 

[meloz]

Looking forward to LPQ.

The only airport I know where you can get an exit stamp at immigration and turn around and go back landside to the cafe across the parking lot for a beer and snack. Just give the immigration guy a wink and a nod when your flight is called explaining you have already cleared and all is good. Strange but true.

On my first trip there, my forgotten letterman was discovered in my backpack after having said beverage across the carpark. I'm not sure why it was not discovered on the first x-ray. Their answer was to allow me airside on my own to place the multi tool in my bag. I was not x-rayed after this and I got many strange looks from airside ground staff. I can see a breakdown in the system but it reflects the gentle personality of the Lao people.

I was in REP a week before you, also at the LM, my second stay there and I concure it is a nice hotel. The roads were very bad around REP having suffered flooding a month before.

It's a shame you did not do the floating village, it was a highlight for me and I wished I had of gone on earlier visits.

Meloz

 

[drron]

Yes LPQ is a different airport and security certainly isnt the number one priority-more of that when I depart.We have filled out the arrival documents on the plane.When we arrive we are then given the form for visa on arrival-repeats the arrivals form questions and then adds a box for"Race"-tempted to write-no i am not in one.A load of codswallop really as the only important thing is to hand over $US30 plus $1 because it is the weekend!
I being tall was able to hand our visa forms over the heads of everyone lining up and are first out of the terminal.At the carousel our bag was already there and the hotel rep was there to carry it to the cleanest minivan outside.Well we are paying top price staying at La Residence Phou Vao.Review here-
http://www.frequentflyer.com.au/com...eviews/la-residence-phuo-vao-luang-21866.html
After unpacking,having a nap then a bath it is time to go and have a drink-no freebies unfortunately.We have dinner at the hotel as one dinner is included in our rate.It really was good.It started with Tempura tomato as an amuse bouche-

We both went for the Luang Prabang lobster salad for starters and it was excellent-

I have a chicken curry-wonderful flavours and done without chilli so great for those who dont like heat-

Mrsdrron has the chicken on lemongrass sticks and declares it excellent,both our dishes served with sticky rice that comes inside bamboo.

She then has the creme caramel served in a young coconut-

And I have the Catalan Creme over a chocolate mousse

We washed it all down with an italian pinot grigio and finished off with some petit 4's.
It was a very good meal and the setiing was fantastic with lanterns floating on the Infinity pool.A great end to the day.
Next-into town.

 

[drron]

Sunday and a leisurely breakfast.About 1000 get the hotel shuttle down town.It is a funny place-an overgrown village pretending it is a city.The main street is full of tourists.Soon work out that you do better bargaining using local currency.$A100 gets me 750000 Kip.Feel rich!Have lunch in town then a massage.Mrsdrron has a 1 hour foot massage and I a 1 hour back and shoulder massage-each cost 60000 kip-$A8!
The main street-

Temples are everywhere-

Sausages drying on the main street-

And chillies-

and a view of the Mekong-

And the main school-

Just a warning-it is obviously an in thing to eat street food,the cheaper the better.it was alarming to see young Aussies doing the right thing drinking bottled water but then eating salads on the street.Especially when after they leave the leftovers are washed in a basin of dirty water and put back on sale.Some of the young europeans we saw looked in terrible medical condition.
As the Luxe guide to Luang Prabang says-"be careful at any of the same same local eats as not only will the bottom drop out of your world but the world will drop out of your bottom"
next more of LP.

 

[drron]

first our meal at the Blue Elephant.certainly a nice ambience but very quiet-

They started with a complimentary entree-really like a mini pizza-

Next pork skewers-

And Lao sausage,probably dried on the street!

and a mixed veggies served with sticky rice-

And a mango tarte tatin to finish-

With a beer and 2 glasses wine this set us back $US58 so not cheap.The hotel was of much better quality but near twice the price.Certainly the LM Angkor was looking even better now.
During our stay we also tried to dine at the Tamarind restaurant-sat us at a table,very limited menu and when we ordered said couldn't bring meals for another hour-so we left.Was also reccomended on Trip Advisor.
Next-Tak Bat

 

[drron]

So just a short break from the food pictures and into some culture.An early morning wake up call and the hotel shuttle down to central LP before dawn-just to prove it here is drron arriving-

And the first monks-

and the La Residence group setting up-

Now you can read about this ceremony in many places and they all give the same guidelines-dress with shoulders and legs covered,dont touch the monks,no flash photography,dont stand over the monks,be quiet.
Well all these points are are observed more in their breaking.But at least it proved the monks are human.One young Aussie lass was dressed in short shorts and a skimpy low cut top.She appropriately though kneeled and didnt touch the monks.All of the monks stopped in front of her and were prepared to wait some time for their rice.:shock:
Some of the monks were quite young-

And there were monks giving to monks-

To be continued.

 

[drron]

There seems to be a never ending supply of monks-

But then it started to thin out-

But what intrigued me was the site of monks taking photos of the tourists-

As well as videos-

Now I am a confirmed cynic so keep that in mind.This ceremony in the main street of LP is now just a tourist show.I only saw tourists giving alms.The locals have already given their offerings in the side streets before this procession starts-we saw that on our way to town.However it is obviously very good for the local economy with hawkers out and gift shops and cafes open.
Another word of advice-dont buy your alms from the hawkers-buy at the local markets otherwise you are going to get ripped off.
So now it is back to the hotel.As part of our package we have a cooking class.So dont miss Drron in an apron-when will this cross dressing end?

 

[drron]

So after our appearance at the Tak Bat ceremony and another nice breakfast we had an early rest before going to the restaurant at 1100 for our cooking class-just the 2 of us.As promised drron donned an apron-

The chef though had been busy and most of the hard preparation had been done-

But not all so drron got busy chopping-

The waiter had obviously never encountered such style!

But the results of chopping the veggies for the spring rolls was pretty good if I say so myself.
Next the results.

 

[drron]

Well as you may have guessed the first dish was pork spring rolls.

And the finished product,maybe a little large-

now the next dish was prawns with chilli and basil.problem mrsdrron doesnt tolerate chilli-no problems,just the merest hint and the dish was fantastic-

Then came a red curry pork-again just the merest hint of chilli and it turned out one of the best curries I have tasted and one of the few mrsdrron has eaten-

Naturally curries need to be washed down.i dont mind Beer Lao-

And to top it off mango and sticky rice-yum.

after that it was another nanny nap.next more food photos.

 

[drron]

Just a few pics of the meals at La Residence.As you are probably aware by now i love my food.
Our second nights dinner was the duck terrine which was fantastic-

Mini spring rolls,and I have to admit better than my attempt-

Seafood risotto-

And a great scallop dish-sauteed on shell plus over a black cous cous-

A really nice mango tart-

And a really fantastic tasting Tamarind savarin,cashew nut ice cream and hibiscus flower coulis-

next will be more sights of LP and the night markets.

 

[drron]

The second last day was the highlight of my trip when i went to a village outside luang prabang-Through an organisation called Big Brother Mouse we had sponsored a library for the school.If you had not seen it i did a Mini TR of that day here-
http://www.frequentflyer.com.au/com...trip-photos/mini-report-a-day-laos-20201.html
After coming back and having a Nanny nap mrsdrron and I headed to town again and the night markets.They do set up early completely closing the main street-

As night falls it does become a sight-

Earlier on-roosters-for fighting not eating-

Once again we saw young westerners taking their life in their hands-one place had a vegetarian buffet-Kip1500-$A2.But the flies etc certainly suggested a high risk of bugs.Some partaking indeed did not look well.
Just to end this day some of the art of the village kids-6-8 years old.

definitely hidden talent.Though I really was disappointed in Luang Prabang-too many tourists that have obviously corrupted the place,the village and the kids stole my heart and I will go back to Laos.
Next time to take our leave and back to BKK.

 

[docjames]

These photos are making me hungry.......:mrgreen:

(wanders off to cafeteria.........:shock

 

[drron]

Must try and finish this TR.So on our last day there was a large group of French travellers at brekkie.En masse they are every bit as bad as groups of Americans and Australians.Driven to the airport at 1030.Greeted by this sign where we stopped-

Security is an xray machine as you enter the terminal.bottled water etc go through without a problem.For some reason they insist I take off my watch though mrsdrron is allowed to keep hers on.mrsdrron heads straight for the wrong checkin much to the mirth of all staff.Go to the right one-no queue.Allocated 3A,B and we thought we were doing well.Through Immigration-no extra departure tax.After Immigration the only thing is a small shop with very limited stock but including large rubies at $US75-obviously top quality!
Security at the airport is obviously very tight-1 of the staff closing the gate as he arrives for work-

In the terminal there is a young fellow obviously in trouble.Looks severely dehydrated,off to the loo frequently and curled up in the foetal position the rest of the time.soon our bird arrives-a PG ATR 72-500.

The baggage handlers are soon on the job-

fortunately they dont have to bend-

Soon we are walking out to the plane.As you might notice from the last photo this bird has the luggage at the front and pax load from the back.our seats mean we will be next to last off.A final look at the terminal-

Next PG942 to BKK.