Go ahead - Mayan my day: Belize and Guatemala get away

[RooFlyer]

The earliest buildings found at the Mayan city of Tikal in northern Guatemala date from the 4th Century BC, but most of the city dates from the Mayan Classic Period c. 200 to 900 AD. Its peak population may have been 70-90,000. It was one of the dominant Mayan city states, until its decline and abandonment toward the end of the 8th Century. Again, the reason for its abandonment is uncertain, with theories ranging from an extended drought, to over-population and collapse of local resources.

it was re-discovered in the mid 1800s and is one of the largest Mayan archaeological sites anywhere. Today, it is located in the 576 sq km Tikal National Park, established 1955, mainly consisting of the city and surrounding dense rain forest. The site was declared a UNESCO World heritage site in 1979, the first to be both for cultural and natural heritage/values. Along with adjacent areas, it comprises the Maya Bioshphere of approximately 21,000 sq km. Rainfall averages 1,350mm and temperature mainly varies between 21 to 24 degrees.

Unfortunately all of the history I'll recount here will be from a couple of books I bought, supplemented by Wikipedia. Our Guatemalan guide for the day was a huge disappointment. The Mayan civilisation of course were masters of astronomy and their calendars are pretty well know as being cosmological. Our guide unfortunately took this entirely to heart and we got 3 hours of what I would describe as 'New Age' mumbo-jumbo, with electric/energy fields being pointed out, how the human voltage of ?2.2V changes as you go up the temples, how we should all live sustainably, reduce oil consumption (yes, he actually said this) etc. Virtually nothing about the rulers of Tikal, how the buildings related to each other, excavation history etc etc. We examined no stelae. Unfortunately one of the party was right into it all, and claimed his fingers were tingling as he crossed over the various 'energy fields'. Sorry, but as a scientist and historian I had no time for this type of 'tour'.

Oh, well.

First, a map, from this site.




So here is Temple I again, on the left, 47m high and built in the mid 700s. Unlike Caracol, you can't climb the structures but several have wooden staircases on the sides, allowing you to reach the viewing platforms. On the right, across the Gran Plaza is Temple II, and this does have a staircase allowing you to reach the platform at the level of the bright white limestone, and the lower panorama shows the 'north Acropolis' to the left and Temple 1 in the centre and 'Maler's Palace to the right, under vegetation.




More detail of the North Acropolis, which was a funerary complex from around 350AD. Each ruler added to the complex, including building over the front, thus covering carvings etc of the predecessor. The carving on the right was found behind the current front wall of the complex. there are many stelae describing the complex and who did what, and a carved altar (the low dish in the foreground) but of course that was of no interest to us! :evil:





Looking the other way from Temple II, we see the jungle within the site and Temple IV peeking above it.



Did I mention like epiphytes ? I hope the colours come out properly.

 

[drron]

Well I get pins and needles every time I walk into a temple or an ancient ruin.
But then having a peripheral neuropathy might just be the real reason.

 

[JohnM]

Typical of the anti-science that sadly is becoming so pervasive. Why have evidence-based science when belief-systems sound soooo much better - and don't require anyone to think :-|.

 

[burmans]

Typical of the anti-science that sadly is becoming so pervasive. Why have evidence-based science when belief-systems sound soooo much better - and don't require anyone to think :-|.

You need to ask that question of a Liberals supporter!

 

[JohnM]

You need to ask that question of a Liberals supporter!

Ahem, please let's not bring any form of politics into a rational conversation...

 

[RooFlyer]

From Temples I and II we walked on good paths to Temple IV, which is one of, if not the largest Mayan building of any time. It sits on a 5m high base and stands a further 65m high - the tallest pre Columbian building in the Americas! The base is 142 x 108 m and 193,000 cubic metres in volume. The pyramid is about 77,000 cubic metres in volume.

It was built by ruler Yik'in Chan Kawiil in about 750AD. He was a major builder in Tikal. In front of it was a massive, wide causeway where the people may have gathered to watch the ceremonies.

This is what it may have looked at (including colour); for scale the base is 5m high; I think the dots are meant to be people!





The pyramid has only been excavated at the base and near the top. Most of it remains covered in rubble and soil, shown in the LH picture, half way up. The base at the front is on the right and you can just see the top through the trees.




Of course there are mysterious mounds all about but you can climb to near the top of Temple IV via a wooden staircase.




Magnificent views from the top. Can you imagine at the city's height, the view from here would have commanded across the entire city. Like looking out over Manhattan from the Empire State building.




You can see other temples above, in the distance, but better shown here. Temple III near the centre of the RH pic (it was struck by lightning, so under repair) and Temples I and II to the left. Temple V peeking out from behind a small (real) hill to the far right.

 

[JohnM]

Onya, RF. My little mind is starting to tick over for next year's DONEx - and I haven't even done this year's yet .

 

[RooFlyer]

Onya, RF. My little mind is starting to tick over for next year's DONEx - and I haven't even done this year's yet .

Sounds fair. Your reports are the reason I'm about to empty my wallet over Sth America next month. If you are a diver / snorkeler you'll get a lot more out of Belize than I did.

 

[TomVexille]

You really do see some interesting stuff :mrgreen:

 

[RooFlyer]

Don't forget to look down, as well as up, they say. Good advice. In the RH pic, leaf cutter ants. RH pic - some detail on the buildings with traces of stucco and orange ?paint




A bit more natural history. Colours probably won't come out well, but the root system on the left was a complete palette of green-olive-tan tones, unlike the mostly verdant greens elsewhere.




On the left, a lime kiln. They would fill the pit with wood, then cover with limestone chunks and lit it rip. The limestone gets de-hydrated - calcined, same as today - and when crushed, mixed with sand and water, makes a good cement. On the right, a hole and man-made small cavern. Guide said it was for storing grain, which sounded funny to me, as it would be a wet environment, even if lined. Wouldn't you store grain in a sealed, dry environment? Guide book said it was for storing water - sounds more likely to me.




Part of the Tikal complex is known as 'the Lost World', (Mundo Peridido) named after the novel by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (1912). There are a number of buildings there, including this 'Temple Talud-Tablero' or sloping-panel temple. This style, about 400 AD was apparently influenced by the great metropolis of Teotihuacan in Mexico and is unusual in Tikal. Evidently you can climb this one.




Next group was the 'Plaza of the seven temples'. The geometry of this, quite complex set of structures is, I read later, quite precise.

 

[RooFlyer]

The last major structure we saw was Temple V. I learned later that its 57m tall (second highest at Tikal) and was for an identified ruler, built about 700AD. Note the altar at the foot of the stairs.




The it was back on the back of the truck and we dropped off some folk at one if the hotels/inns on site. These apparently are prioritised for archaeological workers/researchers on site, but the public are perfectly welcome. Take a look at the epiphyte growing at the left in the RH pic. Forget its name, but I used to have one of those growing in my back yard in Sydney.




Then it was the drive back and we stopped at a small village for souvenirs and lunch. A couple of monkeys swept past, on cue. A Cocoa bush in the garden.




Our lunch spot; lunch not bad, but the beer ('Rooster') was better!

 

[RooFlyer]

A good ride back to Belize City, 1hr 45 mins with a chatty driver and one of the couples from yesterday. We dropped them at the 'City' airport, which is for light planes servicing the islands and Cays. Very busy.




I had a couple of hours before my own flight from the main airport, and knowing there wasn't a lounge there, I went for another walk - by the Haulover inlet again, and the fishing boats are in. I also noticed the Belize flag - two timbermen, supporting symbols of the early trade in Belize - mahogany and shipping. Is it the only world flag with people on it?





Then out to the airport. Although I knew it was an old building from my arrival, the American check-in area surprised me. But it was mostly an illusion. Most of the kiosks weren't in service and I got an old-fashioned check in . After security, the waiting area was a zoo. There were 4 737 sized aircraft waiting to board and the waiting area was suitable for maybe 2 or 3. A fair few duty free shops to get that last minute T shirt with residual cash...




And there's my American chariot to DFW today, then I'm on US to PHX and YYC tomorrow. Single runway. With Belize's tourism boom, this airport is badly in need of a new terminal, at least. however I saw or heard of no such plans. I mean it works, but clearly at breaking point as long as the airlines (or maybe the airport) 'batch' the planes in/out.

As I mentioned here, on boarding, I realised that I had left my iPad in the terminal, at a charging station. The captain ended up going back into the terminal to retrieve it (I suspect taking a bathroom break.. but still ). Pretty impressed and feedback to AA, you bet.




The view of Belize City as we took off towards the east. Still reminds me of Darwin in the 1980s. I had pre-ordered beef for dinner through the AA web site, but as soon as we levelled off the FA broke the news that the beef hadn't been loaded ... and it was chicken, chicken or chicken. I chose the chicken and it was just OK. Crew was good and journey un-eventful.

 

[RooFlyer]

We got into DFW just after dark. I had a compulsory over-night here; we swooped over downtown Dallas and on the tarmac, a familiar sight.




First time I had entered the USA at DFW and it was a breeze. Signs and coloured lines on the floor led me to the ESTA-holder area; passport in kiosk, got paper print-out (with me looking nowhere near into the camera!). I had an ESTA issued before the recent additional questions phase, so was expecting to face a human for immigration somewhere, but no. I was HLO, so simply joined the long-ish customs queue. After a few minutes I looked up and realised that I was in USA citizens line. I looked over and non US citizens line was only a couple of people deep, and had 2 officers on it. The USA line had only 1 officer on it! Through in minutes.

I booked the Grand Hyatt at DFW; it was (very) surprisingly well priced (well, relatively!). Ended up being A$180 after tax which is pretty amazing when you consider the cost of other airport hotels and the time, cost and hassle of any alternative. Room was very good - no compromise on usual Grand Hyatt standard. Downstairs was a good bar and also a dining room, but I just had a couple of drinks while I did the e-mail thing, and wen to bed.




I was told when checking-in at the Hyatt that they could check me onto my onward flights in the morning (which meant I could go straight through security and get the sky train to my terminal). But when I fronted, they said because I was going international (Canada), I would have to check in like normal. This meant I had to exit the terminal, catch a shuttle bus around to Terminal E (sky train is airside of course), check in etc. It was an 8am flight and luckily I was a bit early. At 6:00 am the place was almost deserted outside.

Airside, I found that there was no AA lounge at Terminal E - never had been a US one apparently. The queue for Starbucks was commensurately long. I needed breakfast, or a facsimile thereof, so I got the skytrain to Terminal C next door and hunted down an Admiral's Club lounge. I knew there would only be slim pickings unless I paid, but I was shocked at how frugal it was. There was some fruit, some bagels (which I regard as stale donuts) and some mini-muffins; no juice. No purchase options. Yeah, yeah, I know I should know better, but in the fog of morning my mind switches to Australian domestic mode and I just expect something for breakfast.




US Air flight to PHX was pretty dull; an 8:00am flight in "F" and they served snacks in wrappers (I chose a sort of small cake thing, thinking it was a Danish pastry, but it turned out to be a sticky, crumbly horror - mess everywhere) and coffee/tea. No juice that I recall.

Arrive PHX 1/2 an hour early, which we spend on the tarmac, firstly waiting for our gate to be cleared (predictable), then, after 10 minutes, waiting for a blocking 737 to move away. Ho hum. The arrival gate was, I worked out later, 500m from the departure date for the onwards flight but fortunately that was next to an Admirals, Club, so I made my way there. Lounge dragon gave me a hard time getting in. BP with OW Emerald credentials on it, and J seating wasn't enough. Had to produce the QF card. I've never liked US Air and I still don't (this is obviously a legacy US Air lounge). The lounge is pretty spartan, but (gasp) they have yogurt, cereal and (warm) juice here!




PHX-YYC flight was notable for what I regard as the abysmal performance of the US Air FAs. The RH pic shows my seat-mate, holding his laptop on his lap, during taxiing. You can see the FA directly adjacent, looking straight at him - there was no doubt that they saw the unrestrained laptop and yet did nothing about it. He of course held onto it during takeoff etc. About 2 minutes after take-off, during low angle climb (and at about 8,000 ft I checked later) a guy from J got up and went to the toilet. The FA, still seated, and one giving the 'stay seated until the sign goes off' message, didn't bat an eyelid. Just pathetic. I hope AA takes the broom through this lot when the merger is complete.

 

[TomVexille]

Unfortunately the surviving management is from US, so that's likely the culture that remains

 

[RooFlyer]

Yes, I saw your comment about what the current, ex US boss said about their stock exchange code and that definitely didn't fill me with much confidence

 

[RooFlyer]

And so the trip ended back in Calgary. Flew over these neat eroded volcanic plugs in Arizona I think.



In conclusion (the following doesn't necessarily apply to the reef/offshore areas, where I didn't get to):

* Belize is easy to visit; English everywhere, modest tourist infrastructure, and improving;
* I'd suggest the Great House Inn in Belize City and the San Ignacio Hotel in San Ignacio;
* Numerous land day trips from Belize City; in addition to the Zoo, Lamanai Maya city; Crooked tree wildlife sanctuary.
* Safe in the tourist areas;
* Not too costly (as long as you plan ahead);
* Compact country, with Mayan culture 2 hours inland and the reef etc 1/2 an hour offshore;
* Tikal in Guatemala easy to visit from San Ignacio

Happy travels

 

[drron]

Thanks.Unfortunately it means bucket list is getting longer.
Really enjoyed the TR.

 

[love_the_life]

Thanks RF. I've really enjoyed reading your TR and looking at the excellent photos. Like ddron, the bucket list groweth ever longer! So many places, so little money (well not quite true but ....)

 

[kevrosmith]

Always enjoy the trip reports RooFlyer... helps me to live these places vicariously through your experiences. Don't want to sound like a debbie-downer, and maybe I just haven't had the right opportunities or have someone to challenge me to travel to these places with, but these are not where I would choose to travel... so enjoy being able to join you for the journey from a distance.

 

[RooFlyer]

I know what you are saying kevrosmith .. Belize & Guatemala weren't on my list of 'to dos', but this was just opportunistic - I was on the right continent, was stuck with a week in freezing Calgary with nothing to do, and with AA miles to spare! Then its easy