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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Oops, late aboard for this one...
Oops, late aboard for this one...
Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK whY
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Elsewhere around the palace, some tiling ideas for your next kitchen reno ..
Elsewhere around the palace, some tiling ideas for your next kitchen reno ..
amaroo
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Stunning attraction. Just like most of Istanbul.
Stunning attraction. Just like most of Istanbul.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Some more from the catalogue:
.. and an idea for the ceiling.
Some more from the catalogue:
.. and an idea for the ceiling.
amaroo
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
We ate here.. not the best meal we had in Istanbul, but still pretty good.
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....eeks-turks-last-post-67312-3.html#post1233753
We ate here.. not the best meal we had in Istanbul, but still pretty good.
http://www.australianfrequentflyer....eeks-turks-last-post-67312-3.html#post1233753
romney
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Absolutely agree with you on this - I was there in April. Have it pencilled in again for a few days next year as we pass through the area.
Enjoying your trip report. I've added a few more places to my list that we didn't get to.
Absolutely agree with you on this - I was there in April. Have it pencilled in again for a few days next year as we pass through the area.
Enjoying your trip report. I've added a few more places to my list that we didn't get to.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
On to the site that I was really looking forward to - the Hagia Sofia. It looms above Sultanahment and when you get up close to it the size becomes more apparent. I would normally try to visit something like this at opening time, but not possible. However my Istanbul Museum Card allowed me to bypass the queue for tickets and go straight to the entrance.
Like a number of structures in Istanbul (and Turkey), it started off as a Greek orthodox church (Cathedral), was converted to a mosque and is now a museum. It was built during the 500s AD - 500 years before Westminster Cathedral - by Emperor Justinian I and was the third structure on the site. It was the world's largest cathedral until the 1500s.
As you go in, you pass these excavations and remnants of the prior version of the church, built in the early 400s. The sheep represent the 12 apostles.
The entrance way reflects the 1,500 years of people entering and leaving. Overhead, un noticed by most it seems is the mosaic Christ as Pantocrator ('Almighty' or 'Ruler of all') dating from about 950.
Inside, its truly massive. The predictable renovations being carried out, with scaffolding in one third of the space, but there's plenty to see! It is obviously a Christian church, with an altar/apse area at one end. Today, there is a blend of Christian and Islamic iconography - the Christian ones have been revealed over the years in restoration efforts. A balance has been struck between revealing the Christian at the expense of later Islamic. The dome is covered in Islamic calligraphy, very likely concealing more Christian mosaics.
On to the site that I was really looking forward to - the Hagia Sofia. It looms above Sultanahment and when you get up close to it the size becomes more apparent. I would normally try to visit something like this at opening time, but not possible. However my Istanbul Museum Card allowed me to bypass the queue for tickets and go straight to the entrance.
Like a number of structures in Istanbul (and Turkey), it started off as a Greek orthodox church (Cathedral), was converted to a mosque and is now a museum. It was built during the 500s AD - 500 years before Westminster Cathedral - by Emperor Justinian I and was the third structure on the site. It was the world's largest cathedral until the 1500s.
As you go in, you pass these excavations and remnants of the prior version of the church, built in the early 400s. The sheep represent the 12 apostles.
The entrance way reflects the 1,500 years of people entering and leaving. Overhead, un noticed by most it seems is the mosaic Christ as Pantocrator ('Almighty' or 'Ruler of all') dating from about 950.
Inside, its truly massive. The predictable renovations being carried out, with scaffolding in one third of the space, but there's plenty to see! It is obviously a Christian church, with an altar/apse area at one end. Today, there is a blend of Christian and Islamic iconography - the Christian ones have been revealed over the years in restoration efforts. A balance has been struck between revealing the Christian at the expense of later Islamic. The dome is covered in Islamic calligraphy, very likely concealing more Christian mosaics.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Some more of the interior.
Looking up above to the upper galleries and into the dome - its a long way up.
You head up to the upper galleries via a ramp. It looks like there is usually a crowd up here, judging by the queue barriers, but not many today (or this season, perhaps).
This is one of the highlights, the Deësis mosaic. Probably put in at the end of a brief Catholic use of the cathedral (restoration of Greek orthodox use) in 1261. Unfortunately in this and other pics here, the toning down of resolution by me to get the pics to upload, and then again by AFF to display them, they aren't nearly as crisp as in my original photos.
The Comnenus mosaic dating from 1122.
Empress Zoe mosaic, dating from a century earlier again. Although most of these are damaged, if you think about the turmoil that has gone on in the 1,000 or so years since they were created, their survival is pretty much a 'miracle' in itself, I think
Some more of the interior.
Looking up above to the upper galleries and into the dome - its a long way up.
You head up to the upper galleries via a ramp. It looks like there is usually a crowd up here, judging by the queue barriers, but not many today (or this season, perhaps).
This is one of the highlights, the Deësis mosaic. Probably put in at the end of a brief Catholic use of the cathedral (restoration of Greek orthodox use) in 1261. Unfortunately in this and other pics here, the toning down of resolution by me to get the pics to upload, and then again by AFF to display them, they aren't nearly as crisp as in my original photos.
The Comnenus mosaic dating from 1122.
Empress Zoe mosaic, dating from a century earlier again. Although most of these are damaged, if you think about the turmoil that has gone on in the 1,000 or so years since they were created, their survival is pretty much a 'miracle' in itself, I think
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Final pics of the upper gallery. On the right, see how the supporting columns are inclined to better support the weight (there are a number of these). Gorgeous striped marble.
On exit, another oft-missed mosaic, as its high behind people as they exit the building. This is the Virgin Mary, Constantine the Great and Emperor Justinian.
Justinian (left) is offering Constantinople (Istanbul); Constantine the Great (right) is offering the Hagia Sophia.
That day I checked out of the Four Seasons (sob) and into the Novotel Bosphorus, almost on the waterfront at Galata. My budget didn't stretch to an extended stay at FS, unfortunately! The Novotel is new - about a year old and is in an area being done up, so there is a lot of construction around. In a few years it'll be prime position. Frankly its a bit stark, but it does the job - you know what you are going to get with a Novotel. The staff were good, and the Concierge was as good as the one at the FS. I was HLO, so I walked from the FS to the tram station, crossed the Galata bridge on the tram, and it was a 5 min walk to the Novotel from the tram at the other end.
The room was pretty standard Novotel - comfortable and functional. The public areas a bit austere.
Final pics of the upper gallery. On the right, see how the supporting columns are inclined to better support the weight (there are a number of these). Gorgeous striped marble.
On exit, another oft-missed mosaic, as its high behind people as they exit the building. This is the Virgin Mary, Constantine the Great and Emperor Justinian.
Justinian (left) is offering Constantinople (Istanbul); Constantine the Great (right) is offering the Hagia Sophia.
That day I checked out of the Four Seasons (sob) and into the Novotel Bosphorus, almost on the waterfront at Galata. My budget didn't stretch to an extended stay at FS, unfortunately! The Novotel is new - about a year old and is in an area being done up, so there is a lot of construction around. In a few years it'll be prime position. Frankly its a bit stark, but it does the job - you know what you are going to get with a Novotel. The staff were good, and the Concierge was as good as the one at the FS. I was HLO, so I walked from the FS to the tram station, crossed the Galata bridge on the tram, and it was a 5 min walk to the Novotel from the tram at the other end.
The room was pretty standard Novotel - comfortable and functional. The public areas a bit austere.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Having moved in, time to have a look around Karakoy (the northern side of the Galata Bridge, where the Novotel is) and Beyoğlu / Taksim.
Jumped on the tram to Karabas station, then on the underground funicular to Taksim Square. The funicular is just part of the tram/metro network, so touch the Istanbul Card on the reader, and off we go. The cabin isn't angled, but has several steps, so you are level the entire journey . Taksim Square was a surprised - I was expecting a bustling, market-like atmosphere, but it was mostly empty.
I headed off down Isiklal Street, which was very busy. The old tram looked interesting, but too many people wanted to get aboard so I skipped it. It was only later that I realised that the March bombing in Istanbul was on Isiklal Street!
I'm not much of a shopper ... but then ...
I manfully resisted the first shop (above), but was brought down by a free sample handed out by the second one. Once inside, I got another free sample (not small either!). Well, they got me of course. I stood in front of the counter on the right and held up 10 fingers and aid "10 pieces lut-fen"
Ha!
They had heard that before, hadn't they? I got 10 lira's worth, (A$5) considerably more than 10 pieces. 
But what can you do?
Having moved in, time to have a look around Karakoy (the northern side of the Galata Bridge, where the Novotel is) and Beyoğlu / Taksim.
Jumped on the tram to Karabas station, then on the underground funicular to Taksim Square. The funicular is just part of the tram/metro network, so touch the Istanbul Card on the reader, and off we go. The cabin isn't angled, but has several steps, so you are level the entire journey
. Taksim Square was a surprised - I was expecting a bustling, market-like atmosphere, but it was mostly empty.I headed off down Isiklal Street, which was very busy. The old tram looked interesting, but too many people wanted to get aboard so I skipped it. It was only later that I realised that the March bombing in Istanbul was on Isiklal Street!
I'm not much of a shopper ... but then ...
I manfully resisted the first shop (above), but was brought down by a free sample handed out by the second one. Once inside, I got another free sample (not small either!). Well, they got me of course. I stood in front of the counter on the right and held up 10 fingers and aid "10 pieces lut-fen"
Ha!
They had heard that before, hadn't they? I got 10 lira's worth, (A$5) considerably more than 10 pieces. But what can you do?
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Walking along the Isiklal Street from Taksim is good, as it is downhill and heads straight for my next sight to see - Galata Tower. And no, I don't know what the guys on the left are on about, either.
It costs TL25 (about A$12.50) to go up the tower, and it isn't covered by the Istanbul Museum Card. A bit steep, but the views are great.
Bosphorus out to the left, Golden Horn to the right, and the entrance to the Sea of Mamara to the top right.
Vegetated area to the right is Sultanahmet, with the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia etc; Galata bridge.
Mainly the Golden Horn Waterway
Clockwise from top left: Topkapi Palace and other museums complex, Hagia Sophia, Galata bridge and the Spice Bazaar area, Blue Mosque. You really get to appreciate how big those buildings actually are from up here.
Walking along the Isiklal Street from Taksim is good, as it is downhill and heads straight for my next sight to see - Galata Tower. And no, I don't know what the guys on the left are on about, either.
It costs TL25 (about A$12.50) to go up the tower, and it isn't covered by the Istanbul Museum Card. A bit steep, but the views are great.
Bosphorus out to the left, Golden Horn to the right, and the entrance to the Sea of Mamara to the top right.
Vegetated area to the right is Sultanahmet, with the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia etc; Galata bridge.
Mainly the Golden Horn Waterway
Clockwise from top left: Topkapi Palace and other museums complex, Hagia Sophia, Galata bridge and the Spice Bazaar area, Blue Mosque. You really get to appreciate how big those buildings actually are from up here.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
For dinner the first night at the Novotel, I was set on going to Karakoy Lokantasti, a Four Seasons recommendation, which was just a few doors down . However it was booked out both nights I would be there. Novotel sent me around another corner to Kosebasi.
It was nice enough, with a chatty waiter. Prices were 'medium' for what it appeared. I decided on a half bottle of red, then the 'chef's compliments' came out - a small pizza type thing a cheesy pastry thing and some dips. Naïvely I just accepted them.
I had already ordered the mixed grill, so I barely touched the 'free' offerings. Dessert was sort of glace or sugary pumpkin, with pureed sesame seed sauce. Sounded interesting, but not really to my taste.
Then the bill came - over A$100!!! The 'chef's compliments' was charged for, and they tried to bill me for a full bottle of red. Also charged me for bread. If I was ever going to make a scene in a restaurant, this would have been it. They backed down to the equivalent of A$65, which was still a rip off, but I let it go. No tip for you, mate! I told the Novotel and they seemed appropriately horrified and apologised profusely.
Next day was forecast to be wet, so I planned a bunch of indoors things. First stop the spice bazaar near the Galata bridge, a tram ride away. Novotel also gave me an umbrella for the day. Although it was mid morning, the bazaar was already bustling.
LOTS of spices of course. lovely displays.
Not just spices ... teas etc and the sweets here are better value than Ikistal Street
For dinner the first night at the Novotel, I was set on going to Karakoy Lokantasti, a Four Seasons recommendation, which was just a few doors down
. However it was booked out both nights I would be there. Novotel sent me around another corner to Kosebasi. It was nice enough, with a chatty waiter. Prices were 'medium' for what it appeared. I decided on a half bottle of red, then the 'chef's compliments' came out - a small pizza type thing a cheesy pastry thing and some dips. Naïvely I just accepted them.
I had already ordered the mixed grill, so I barely touched the 'free' offerings. Dessert was sort of glace or sugary pumpkin, with pureed sesame seed sauce. Sounded interesting, but not really to my taste.
Then the bill came - over A$100!!! The 'chef's compliments' was charged for, and they tried to bill me for a full bottle of red. Also charged me for bread. If I was ever going to make a scene in a restaurant, this would have been it. They backed down to the equivalent of A$65, which was still a rip off, but I let it go. No tip for you, mate! I told the Novotel and they seemed appropriately horrified and apologised profusely.
Next day was forecast to be wet, so I planned a bunch of indoors things. First stop the spice bazaar near the Galata bridge, a tram ride away. Novotel also gave me an umbrella for the day
. Although it was mid morning, the bazaar was already bustling.LOTS of spices of course. lovely displays.
Not just spices ... teas etc and the sweets here are better value than Ikistal Street
VPS
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Brings back memories - I was astounded by the wealth in there - ordinary teaspoons had a few diamonds and emeralds - just because they could - think I'd like to go back again
Who doesn't enjoy a good collection of rocks?
Spoonmaker's diamond, 86 carats, surrounded by 49 others
Topkapi dagger (in its scabbard) - with three big chunky emeralds
Just a bucket of stones ...
Yet more sparklies ..
Brings back memories - I was astounded by the wealth in there - ordinary teaspoons had a few diamonds and emeralds - just because they could - think I'd like to go back again
amaroo
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
That's a shame - lovely restaurant!
For dinner the first night at the Novotel, I was set on going to Karakoy Lokantasti, a Four Seasons recommendation, which was just a few doors down
That's a shame - lovely restaurant!
amaroo
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Looks a little wet and the texture looks wanting compared to the one I had.... did you add the spicy sausage ?
Looks a little wet and the texture looks wanting compared to the one I had.... did you add the spicy sausage ?
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
The Spice bazaar has much more than spices and sweets ..
Veges and scents of course ...
Then it was back on the tram to the Grand Bazaar. The first thing you see when you gewt off the tram is this obviously ancient pillar. The Cemberlitas was erected in 330AD on the order of Emperor Constantine to commemorate the declaration of Byzantium (renamed by Constantine as Nova Roma) as the new capital city of the Roman Empire. Amazing.
Then its into the gullet of the sprawling Grand Bazaar.
It was till early-ish, so the Bazaar wasn't as packed a usual. Although I had a map, and was determined not to get lost - I did. I'm not much of a shopper, but I was attracted to the gold souq.
On the right - there is a shop in there, somewhere.
Next stop - the Great Palace Mosaic Museum. This is just down the hill a bit from the Blue Mosque and was totally deserted by tourists.
The Great Palace that used to be on this spot was occupied from about 300 to 1100 AD and was the chief residence of the Eastern Roman or Byzantine emperors. Excavations have found this small part of the complex, with rich floor mosaics being progressively restored. Well worth a look.
The museum is essentially a building covering the mosaic floors, with explanations on the walls.
The Spice bazaar has much more than spices and sweets ..
Veges and scents of course ...
Then it was back on the tram to the Grand Bazaar. The first thing you see when you gewt off the tram is this obviously ancient pillar. The Cemberlitas was erected in 330AD on the order of Emperor Constantine to commemorate the declaration of Byzantium (renamed by Constantine as Nova Roma) as the new capital city of the Roman Empire. Amazing.
Then its into the gullet of the sprawling Grand Bazaar.
It was till early-ish, so the Bazaar wasn't as packed a usual. Although I had a map, and was determined not to get lost - I did.
I'm not much of a shopper, but I was attracted to the gold souq.On the right - there is a shop in there, somewhere.
Next stop - the Great Palace Mosaic Museum. This is just down the hill a bit from the Blue Mosque and was totally deserted by tourists.
The Great Palace that used to be on this spot was occupied from about 300 to 1100 AD and was the chief residence of the Eastern Roman or Byzantine emperors. Excavations have found this small part of the complex, with rich floor mosaics being progressively restored. Well worth a look.
The museum is essentially a building covering the mosaic floors, with explanations on the walls.
Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Such a fantastic trip report! We were there in 2013 and loved it, so seeing your photos and reading your stories makes me want to go back. We are flying through IST in a month and I now regret not making it a stopover... Looking forward to the rest of your report
Such a fantastic trip report! We were there in 2013 and loved it, so seeing your photos and reading your stories makes me want to go back. We are flying through IST in a month and I now regret not making it a stopover... Looking forward to the rest of your report
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
No. Not sure if I mentioned it above, but breakfast definitely wasn't up to the standard of the rest of the FS experience. Not bad, but I think I was the first guest each morning, and probably earlier than they are used to! I think they were still half asleep!
Thanks. I like refreshing my memory by doing these - helps them stick a bit longer ...
No. Not sure if I mentioned it above, but breakfast definitely wasn't up to the standard of the rest of the FS experience. Not bad, but I think I was the first guest each morning, and probably earlier than they are used to! I think they were still half asleep!
Such a fantastic trip report! We were there in 2013 and loved it, so seeing your photos and reading your stories makes me want to go back. We are flying through IST in a month and I now regret not making it a stopover... Looking forward to the rest of your report
Thanks. I like refreshing my memory by doing these - helps them stick a bit longer ...
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
Some more of those fabulous mosaics.
Some more of those fabulous mosaics.
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Re: Historic Turkey (and 5 airports!), finishing in Muscat,Oman. QF, QR and WY J, TK
So glad you enjoyed the Mosiac Musuem. In Istanbul in March and I almost missed it, but 2nd last night I was talking to a young American girl (and her father too) and she was glowing in the praise.
So, next day I wandered down there, only about 5 or 6 minutes walk from my hotel. Just astonishing! And I think there were 2 or 3 others there at the time. Very quiet. I told the staff at my hotel, you have to send people there. They never mentioned it, despite a long spiel/introduction on my arrival.
I have not had such enjoyable experience as I did in Istanbul, in a city for years, loved it!
So glad you enjoyed the Mosiac Musuem. In Istanbul in March and I almost missed it, but 2nd last night I was talking to a young American girl (and her father too) and she was glowing in the praise.
So, next day I wandered down there, only about 5 or 6 minutes walk from my hotel. Just astonishing! And I think there were 2 or 3 others there at the time. Very quiet. I told the staff at my hotel, you have to send people there. They never mentioned it, despite a long spiel/introduction on my arrival.
I have not had such enjoyable experience as I did in Istanbul, in a city for years, loved it!
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