Idiots Guide to Japan - 1st Trip Report

[Noel Mugavin]

Sorry I wasn't clear, this isn't a live report, I was in Japan in January. Gave up on trying to get back early, glad i wasn't successful.

 

[N860CR]

Where did you book your JR pass?

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Where did you book your JR pass?

Japanrailpass.com

 

[Magpie10]

An absolute cracking TR, thanks for taking the time, just loving the review. Hope your knee is on the mend.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 8
Trip to Miyajima was planned for today, but was in no hurry as I wanted to photograph the Itsukushima Shrine at high tide in the afternoon. Took the time to meander through the Peace Memorial Park, having a look at the different monuments. Unfortunately too early to ring the Peace Bell, which was still locked up. Took photos and walked around the A Bomb Dome, felt strange and a little guilty as the Hiroshima locals were passing by going about their business. Something that happened way before my time and that I had nothing to do with, but hard not to feel a sense of shame.

Crossed the road to the site of the former baseball stadium still a couple of remnants of the time The Carp spent at the location. Found my way to a tram station, and seeing I was in no hurry, decided I would take the tram to the ferry landing. Easy enough to work out which tram I needed to get on, and after about a 45 minute ride found myself the only person still seated as everyone got off the tram. I stood up to get off, the conductor just put his hands up and said 'next one, next one' I hadn't spoken to the conductor about where I was going, however did as I was told and sat down. Sure enough he was right, crossed the road, flashed my JR Pass and walked onto the ferry.

Pleasant 10 minute ride, plenty of photo opportunities, and soon enough was on the island. Walked along the waterfront, with plans to head to the ropeway. Stopped at the bus stop, but after 5 minutes had had enough and decided to walk through Momijidai Park and up to the ropeway staion. Wasn't the easiest of walks for me, but did the job.

Arrived at the top of the ropeway, and was another 30 minute walk to the top of Mt Misen. In normal circumstances I would've been all over that, however not to be on this occasion. Consoled myself with some fantastic views of the inland sea, and soon enough headed down to waterfront level once again.

The food stalls and shops were in full swing by this stage, with oysters being the obvious local delicacy. Not for me though, however I found a pastry looking morsel advertised as with cheese. Looked like a cheese toasty sort of a thing on a stick, and was licking my lips as the vendor put it between an iron to give it a last minute burst of heat. Bit into it, and was not great, an octopus flavoured stodgy pastry with a hint of cheese. The lack of bins in Japan paid against me on this occasion, and I had to get to the ferry station before I found a bin where I could dispose of it.

Meandered over to a coffee shop across form the ferry where I asked for a coffee and a chicken sandwich. Something got lost in translation however, and i'm still waiting for the sandwich. Too bad, coffee was good though.

More walking around the waterfront, more shots of the Shrine, but was obvious I wasn't going to make it to sunset.


Took the train back, using my JR Pass, tram back to the Peace Park, where it was about a 5 minute walk to the hotel. Had a bit of a spell, before again heading out at about 7.00pm for some dinner and a bit of a look around. It was absolutely freezing at this point, and where another act of idiocy was performed by myself. For the first time I put the gloves on that I brought with me on the trip, feeling of satisfaction that I felt as the right hand was covered, feeling of what a goose as I realised I had packed 2 right handed gloves as the left hand was not quite as comfortable.

Meandered along Hondori Street before I again settled on a Japanese Curry for dinner, this time with a beef cutlet. More meandering before again at the A Bomb Dome, where was quite nice to hear some Australian voices from a group of about 10 blokes. Group from Queensland on a tour of Japan without their wives. Short chat, seemed like good fellas despite being Banana Benders. (Just joking)

Time to get out of the cold and back to the hotel, ready for tomorrow's visit to the Peace Museum and the trek back to Tokyo.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 10

Waking up on the Tuesday morning, my first thought was that these curtains really obscure the view. Moving to push the curtains fully open, I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was snowing. Being a Perth boy born and bred, and also spending time in the Pilbara, the closest I had come to snow was a fleeting 30 second fall in Ballarat about 10 years ago. There had been a significant fall overnight as there was a complete whiteout of the hills surrounding the city.

Over to the museum, and felt like I was in a movie taking my jacket off and shaking off the snow. The museum is only small but remarkably well done. Very sombre and very informative.

Walked thorough the Peace Park taking photos of the snow covering the ground and the memorials, rang the Peace Bell, then over to the Hall of Remembrance. After just about going slipping over on my backside on the first step, I decided the way to go was to take the elevator reserved for the disabled. After spending some time in the monument, the snow had all but stopped, more photos of the A-Bomb Dome,and off I went to visit and take some photos of the understated Hypocentre marker.


Another walk along Hodori Street, a stop in a coffee stop for a rest and a warm up, then more exploring of some unique Japanese culture.


By the time I has finished walking the covered walkways, the sky had opened up to a brilliant blue, and I headed off to have a look at Hiroshima Castle. More photos, a bit of lunch, and the off to catch a tram to Hiroshima Station for the Shinkansen back to Tokyo.


Arrived once again way too early at the train station, more people watching, and another coffee. Boarded through the Green Car of the Sakura Service, then to my carraige where again was a 2 x 2 formation. Transfer time of about 20 minutes at Shin-Osaka, with about only 5 people in the carraige. The train stopped at Kyoto, and here is where the Japanese sense of order, to me anyway, seems strange and defies common sense. About half a dozen people got on to the carraige I was in, one of these came and sat in a seat next to me. Conductor came through, checked his ticket, all good. Maybe the carraige would fill up at the next stops I thought. Wasn't to be. 80% of seats vacant and I had a seat mate the whole way. The even stranger occurance was the 2 gentlemen who also got on in Kyoto. The men were obviously travelling together, yet were seated directly in front of and behind each other. They were sharing their packeted fish snacks, buying each other beers and whiskeys the whole way to Yokohama, yet the bloke in front was contorting his body to face his friend the whole way. Both had 2 empty seats of a 3 seat row next to them.

Changed trains at Shinigawa Station, and on to Shinjuku and the Ni****su Inn. I knew I had to find a west exit, which I did, and before long was at street level, and facing a permanent map of Shinjuku which conveniently had my hotel located on it. There was still quite a lot of snow on the street from a fall on Sunday Night, and it was bitterly cold. Took a few minutes before I found the hotel, and within minutes had the heat cranking and off to sleep.

 

[irv]

An enjoyable read, what sources did you read for your travel research?

 

[Noel Mugavin]

An enjoyable read, what sources did you read for your travel research?

Whirlpool Travel forum, Tripadvisor, Go Japan, also just used google and followed links where they took me

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 11

In planning my trip, I had wanted to go to the final day of the Sumo tournament, which would be held on Sunday. Unfortunately, tickets for tis day sold out extremely quickly, and I ended up buying tickets for the Wednesday (Day 11 of my report). As the top level matches wouldn't start until med-late afternoon, there was plenty of time to do some exploring around the Shinjuku area before I headed off to the other side of the city.

1st stop was Central Park, situated directly behind the Tokyo Government Metropolitan Building. After a bit of an explore around the garden, I headed to the South Tower of the Metropolitan building. A short wait in the line, (thankfully no wait for the obligatory photo like at the majority of tourist attractions in the US) and then to the top for some magnificent views. Fuji was in sight, but unfortunately cloud had settled covering its peak.


A short wait for the elevator to the North tower, and again some great views. Also set up was a display promoting the different regions of Japan. Picked up plenty of brochures to get some ideas for my next trip to Japan.

Headed back to the hotel for some coffee and chocolate filled croissants. The cafe in the hotel baked these in the shop, and on cold days, probably on any day, they had a willing customer in me every time I walked through the door of the hotel. The plan was to have a look around Shinjuku, then head to Shinjuku Gyoen Gardens. This was working well, until the coffee started to tell me I needed a toilet. Not one to risk a squat toilet, or a toilet without paper, I headed as quickly as I could back to the hotel. All ended well.

I took the opportunity to have a bit of a rest, as I had been walking for a couple of hours, and the knee was getting a little stirred up. Headed off to the Ryogoku Kokugikan, a train switch and was there in about 25 minutes. Picked up my ticket from the automated machine, and soon enough was seated in the back row, which turned out to have a great view, and the added bonus of no seats in front, so able to stretch the legs out.


One thing that the Japanese Stadium has in common with the ones in Australia is cough food at ridiculous prices. There was a chanko restaurant inside, however a long line had formed, and I didn't fancy waiting, so settled for some insipid, expensive pizza instead. The crowd certainly got into the event, with plenty of cat calling, and lots and lots of drinking. Although I couldn't get tickets for the last day, I did manage to see the bout of the 2 unbeaten wrestlers Kotoshogiko and Hokuho, both with 10-0 records, round off the day with their bout.
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Both wrestlers certainly knew how to keep the crowd in suspense, about 5 or 6 times shaping up, then pulling out again. In the end Kotoshogiku won the bout, and eventually finished with a 14-1 record, and win his first tournament. At the end of the bout, the crowd went wild, cheering, throwing cushions into the ring, and to finish off all picking their rubbish up and taking it out in plastic bags. Absolutely amazing, the stadium was spotless.


After the Sumo i headed to Shibuya, witnessed the crossing, statue of the dog, people watched, then back to Shinjuku to find a steak restaurant I had seen earlier in the day. After a bit of searching I found the small restaurant, and after a steak and fried chicken dinner, went for another walk. Didn't last long before time to call it a day and back to the hotel. Made a slight detour, and headed to the North Tower of the Metropolitan Building for some night views before finishing the day.

 

[drron]

Another really enjoyable TR on Japan.Have always wanted to go to a sumo session.Will have to look up dates and then plan trip rather than planning trip and then find the sumo tournament is the week before or after our visit.

 

[BorisWood]

As I think I have mentioned on other threads on AFF, my wife and I are regular travellers to Japan. We usually fly with JAL to Europe and USA and stay for a week or 2 on the way home. We have stayed 18 times so far and have 4 more planned this year. Thanks to Noel for his reports and I hope his trip inspires others to go to Japan. We haven't been to a Sumo bout yet but hope to in May.

As I have been asked many times about going to Japan, I have prepared a document with our tips. Also, I recently set up our own website and have uploaded photos from last year and the Japan tips along with a few other items. You are welcome to have a look on - www.boriswood.com.au - any comments or questions would be welcome.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 12

I had planned to take a trip to Lake Kawaguchi on the Thursday or Friday of my trip, and having been following the forecasts, Friday looked to be the best day to get a clear view of Fuji. The plan then for today, Thursday, was to buy my bus ticket for the next day, head to Asakusa to catch a boat to do a cruise to Odaiba, a bit of exploring of Odaiba, then explore somewhere at night.

The bus station didn't sell tickets until 9 o'clock, so I didin't leave the hotel until about 10 to 9. A little bit of a search around the west exit of Shinjuku Station, and I eventually found the ticket counter. The sky was a clear blue, so the thought did cross my mind to head to Kawaguchiko today, however thought better of it as I would get an earlier start the next day.

Ticket purchased, then off to the depths of Shinjuku Station and on to the Marunuchi Line, where I got off at Akasaka-mitsuke to transfer to the Ginza Line. These lines use opposite sides of the same platform, and when I witnessed the scenes below, I jumped back on to the next train on the Marunuchi, and did a double transfer at Otemachi and Mitsukoshimae, that got me on the Ginza Line without being manhandled.


After getting off at the end of the line, headed to the boat ticket office, bought my ticket, and then had a 45 minute wait until the boat left. Had a bit of a walk around, a couple of pictures, sat down for a while, then on to the boat.


To be honest, it wasn't the most enjoyable boat ride, low ceilings, windows didn't really give a great view, and the seats weren't all that comfortable either. Added to that there was a 50 minute wait at Hinode Pier to get over to Odaiba.

I had a bit of a walk around, but the knee was flaring up a bit today, so decided to get back to the hotel, do some washing, finalise my research for Kawaguchiko, and have a bit of a rest. I did manage to get some snaps before I headed back.


A lazy afternoon, then headed out for some dinner and more exploring of Shinjuku. Had my first experience of ticket ordering dinner, not before I sat down at the counter first, before realising I had to order at the ticket machine first.

I couldn't connect to the internet for whatever reason at the hotel, so I was relying I the research I had done prior to leaving Perth for my day at Kawaguchiko. Unfortunately, this reliance was to lead to another idiot move the next day.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 13

An early start and off to the bus depot for the trip to Kawaguchiko. The sky was a bright blue, however there was an ominous looking cloud off to the side of Fuji, so would be a race against time before the peak was covered. 10 minutes in to the bus trip, my worst nightmare, lady opposite me opened up her bento, containing some sort of fish and roe. Not what I want to smell at any time, not least at 7.30 in the morning. Shortly after, the large (for a Japanese gentleman) seatmate fell asleep and for the next 2 hours I was entertained by his gutteral snoring. A feature of the bus ride was the stops seemingly in the middle of nowhere on the highway.

We soon arrived at Fuji Q, and the cloud had still held off, so I was confident of getting some clear snaps. 10 minutes later we arrived in Kawaguchi, and again I was off to explore.


No here is where the idiocy comes in. From my research done in Perth I was under the impression that the train station was virtually on the lake. Unable to confirm because of the internet at the hotel not working, I was a little put off that i couldn't see the lake form the station. I went into the tourist office next to the station grabbed a map and off I went. Again, I knew I was in a race against time re the cloud, so I was hobbling along as fast as I could, avoiding the traffic on the skinny roads, as well as the slippery ice. I kept rechecking the map, getting anxious about the cloud cover, and also that I couldn't sight the lake. down a side street, some locals clearing their driveway with snow shovels, before the road was completely covered with ice. A turn around, back past he shovellers, and back to the main street I had been walking on. I stopped outside Kawaguchi High School, where an old lady walked by. She stopped and asked me, I think, if the path was clear of ice, I asked if this was the way to the lake. She spoke no English, I spoke no Japanese, but we understood each other enough. Me - 'Yep you can walk on the path, there's not a lot of ice'. Her - 'You're a cough'.

For the last 20 minutes I had been walking in the wrong direction. Another look at the map, realized I hadn't crossed a railway line, then turned the map the right way up. Off I hobbled back to my starting spot, then went the right way.

I came to a road junction, and was re-checking my map, when a gentleman stopped his car in front of me and asked where I was going.' To the lake' I replied. 'You get in' he said. Normally I wouldn't jump in a car with a stranger, but this being Japan in I got. We had a bit of a conversation, the gentleman had reasonable English. He was telling me about the sake breweries, the ropeway, and all tourist attractions in Kawaguchi. To my shame, I was thinking what is this guy's angle?, is he going to direct me to a rip off. Anyway, arrived at the lake, which was an absolute stunning first sight, he offered me his sandwich, which I declined, both got out of the car, and I braced myself for the pay out. None came, he simply said have fun, and off he went to what he was doing for the day. Obviously this fellow was proud of his town, and also wanted me to have a good time while I was here, and his was just another example of the wonderful Japanese hospitality.


Again, with time against me, I marched onto get a good view and shot of Fuji, stopping along the way to get shots of the numerous beautiful scenery spots. The snow was deep, there where sheets of ice on the paths and roads, so it was a bit of a battle at times with the walk, but I must say I did have a spring in the step (as much as I could have a spring). The snow and the scenery had me in a great frame of mind, even though the cloud was closing in.

 

[love_the_life]

Those photos look great with the snow and the stunning blue sky.

 

[irv]

I'd be happy to take those shots, good composition.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 13 cont.

I kept walking around the lake, continuing taking snaps. Unfortunately, due to my stupidity I was too late to get the clear shot of Fuji. Much like The Empire State Building, Fuji had me mesmerized, and wanting to stop and stare and take photos continually.




I continued my walk around the lower part of the lake, back to the ropeway. Up top of the ropeway, cloud had completely engulfed Fuji by this time, however it was still worthwhile thaking the trip up, as it afforded a fantastic view of the town of Kawaguchi, and also the entirety of the lake. The ropeway had as it's mascots some very cutesy cutesy rabbits and squirrels, however at some angles, it appeared there were some strange goings on between the critters.





As the cloud had moved in, I decided to head back to the train station and back to Tokyo, as from previous days experience, once the cloud settled in it appeared not to move. So down the ropeway, and on to the road to wait for the bus back to the station.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 13 cont.


Strange goings on at Kachi Kachi Ropeway.


I waited at the Tour Bus stop, and got on when it arrived about 15 minutes later. On the way to the station I glanced through the front windscreen and again took another shot of Fuji, this time from another angle where the clouds weren't completely covering the peak. Getting off the bus, others produced and showed a card to the driver, which I didn't have. I pulled out all the coin in my pocket, held it in my palm, and let the driver take what he wanted.


At the station I brought my train ticket, as there was no way I was travelling on a bus back to Shinjuku. Before boarding the train, I had to pay another 200 yen. I was travelling on a quaint old train, the Fuji Tozan Densha. Quite an enjoyable journey, sights pointed out on the way, slowing down for once again another shot of Fuji.

The young lady working on the train took good care of me, bringing me brochures and pointing out the sights when announced over the PA. Think she took pity on me as I was the only non Japanese on the train. A 7 minute stop for another photo opportunity, then on to the transfer at Otsuki.


I had to show my Suica at Otsuki, but didn't have to swipe before getting on to the platform. This left me a little concerned that I wouldn't be able to get on, of get out of Shinjuku. Need not have worried, conductor came around once on the train, swiped my card, which didn't have enough on it to cover the fare, so handed over 1000 yen cash. On arriving at Shinjuku however, I had to hand over another 1200 to get out of the station. Any other country would think I had been taken for a ride, Japan however, no doubt all above board.

Went to dinner at the Yakitori restaurant connected to the hotel. Very nice, however language barrier got the better of me when I requested a water to drink. Waiter insisted no I needed to order something form the menu, so went with a ginger ale. Bit of a walk around Shinjuku again before it sytrted to rain, so as quickly as possible scuttled back to the warm and dry of the hotel.

 

[Noel Mugavin]

Day 14

I'm back after a short hiatus, camp down south, interim reports, laptop kicking the bucket, and new pup in the house who has a power cord chewing fetish.

Back to the trip report, a late rising before heading out to Shinjukugyoen Park. It was a cold morning and there were not many people about, which made it a pleasant couple of hours strolling and sitting in quiet contemplation. There was still a bit of snow on the ground from the fall nearly a week ago, and I took quite a few photos. Though the following is not my best, I love the Docomo Yoyogi Building, and do have a lot of snaps with it in the background, or as the main subject.


Strolled through the British and French section before finding what must be the first of the cherry blossoms?






I then went for a walk to Takashimaya Department Building, up to the viewing platform for some more photos, before heading to Meiji Shrine. Spent a bit of time in the park, managed to see a wedding while I was there, then thought about walking to Shibuya. Thought better of it, as the day before was a big day of walking, and was feeling it a bit in the knee.



Walked back to the hotel, bit of a rest before heading out to dinner. Ordered a pork and rice dish, halfway through the waitress took pity on me and offered a spoon. Me being my stubborn self refused the offer and continued to grind it out with chopsticks.

Headed off to piss alley where I had a bit of a walk around, before calling it a night and heading back to the hotel.

 

[love_the_life]

Good to get back to the TR, thanks.
I wonder if they were the plum (prunis) blossoms rather than cherry as they bloom a little earlier I think.
Don't envy you with the camp and interim reports etc. Remember them, not fondly though. Followed by PT interviews usually.

Hope the knee has settled now.

 

[GarrettM]

Great read Noel. Hope the knee is doing ok now though.

We have just decided we want to go to Japan about this time next year, with bub. Going to cull a few ideas from your experiences to make planning easier