Second last day. We'd done Huskys, met Santa, driven snowmobiles... ah, what about a reindeer ride? Can't leave without one of those!
A coach came and picked us up from the tourist centre and we drove 10km south and then turned off the road and drove another 5km into the forest. The morning was calm and no snow - so again, had turned brutally cold.
We got to the reindeer farm, and the lady from
KätkätunturinErä ja Luonto who was running the show, Petra, gave as a lecture on how these are wild animals, scared of humans, and can be dangergerous, can run fast, if your sledge gets pulled off the tracks DO NOT GET OUT (because you will scare the reindeer even more) and be quiet and calm....
She scanned the group of 30 or so people... and eyeballed me: "You! I think I will need your help on the way home, is that okay?" Well I wasn't going to let th side down, so I nodded from beneath my beanie, scarf, and snood...
So having been told to expect a ride behind a relative of Black Caviar, you can imagine how I felt when we plodded along the 3km to the ice lake! The animal we had needed to be "HUP!'d" and "HIP!"'d and flicked with the reins the whole way there.
If there was an upside, it was that I had plenty of time to take photos. But within 30 minutes, I was started to get cold. But nothing would make our slovenly beast break into anything more than a loiter....
We finally got to Wolf Lake, where hot juice and a fire awaited us. Some excursions offered the chance to do ice fishing here. I think it's one thing to come back from offshore WA empty handed, but to sit around a hole in the ice and freeze your gonads off and catch nothing was too much for me to consider! I just took a photo...
And so to the ride back. Apparently some of the reindeer are not up to a 3km round trip, so I was going to join Petra, the guide, in her sledge and my family would be in another. This turned out to be quite a fateful decsion. Petra looked at me like I was a maniac when I had my camera in my lap: "You will need both hand to help me brake" I didn't argue, but after the decidely leisurely stroll I had up to the lake, how much work was I going to need to do on the way back? I didn't get too much time to consider that thought, as Petra had unleashed the beast hitched to our sledge and it took off like someone had shoved a rocket fair up it's bum! This thing didn't just trot, it was galloping like an animal possesed, snow was getting thrown up and all over us. Petra tried to calm it down and for about 30 seconds it seemed to slow to a canter, then was off again VOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM! Petra shouted at be "Okay, get ready to pull hard!" I looked up and saw what looked like a hard 90 degree bend - if we did not slow down, the sled would tip over. "OKAY, PULL!" So I grabbed the rope on my side, and she grabbed the rope on hers. As we got closer and closer, I realised it wasn't a bend at all - it was a gate. Closed! Despite our best efforts, this out of control animal thundered up to the gate, and stopped itself with it's head and chest wedged hard up against the fence by the weight of our sled that followed it in. My heart was racing a hundred miles an hour. Now I knew why she needed help - the damn thing was crazy.
She apologized profusely and explined to me that they had be letting this reindeer take people until there were a couple of "incidents" last season where it crashed through the gate, and so they were trying to break it back in. She talked it down, tied it up, and we paused to wait for the rest of the teams. We waited quite a while before the next three groups came in... but no sign of my family. Then a young Russian girl came in on her own... where was her partner? Fell off ? Got off to help someone?
It turned out, the reindeer Mrs J and kids had was a serial tailgater, and had got so close to the one in front, its harness got caught up. So, trying to help, Mr Russian, two sledges in front, stopped his and
got out. At that point, his reindeer took fright and tore off down the path leaving him stranded, and seeing that, and the Russian walking towards him, Mrs J's beast wanted out of the game, so left the ploughed trail, and tore off 500m into the snowy undergrowth, covering Mrs J and the three already freezing kids with 6" of powder snow from the low handing branches.
Fortunately, the team had a snowmobile driven by a trainer following, but it took him 15 minutes to calm the 4WD reindeer and get it back where it needed to be. Petra fairly ripped the Russian guy a new one when she heard the story from the back guardsman - and apologised profusely to Mrs J and kids - presented the young ones with reindeer anterlers as trophies (which, cause we knew AQIS would not like, we left at the cabin...).
Mrs J was underwhelmed at the time - it was bitterly cold, and the snow really made it a lot worse. But as we drove back into Levi, she agreed that we'd all been warned that these are wild animals, and that if everyone had done what they were told to, it would have been a lot less dramatic.
If anyone does plan to go to Lapland, I would not say do not do the reindeer ride - it was still fun, the views were pretty, and the serenity of the forest on the slow ride was special - it was also the least expensive of the activities, but I suggest you do it first: after Huskys and Snowmobiles, even with the unscripted adverture, it just does not fall into the same ear-to-ear grin catagory as the others do.