Italy, Montenegro, Serbia and Austria
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RB
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June 5th-Visit to Budva- used bus there and back with mixed success. Reviews/info/conflicting advice saw us walk back & forward between bus station & old town before buying a ticket at the bus station & leaving from there. You travel on the bus line according to when you buy the ticket-some trips go via Tivat which adds time. From Budva station to Old Town Budva is a couple of kilometres- much more high rise & generally more developed and busy than Kotor- maybe the impact of Russian money.
Budva wiki info: Budva - Wikipedia
Old Town Budva is much more compact than its counterpart in Kotor. Budva apparently dates from the 5th century BC. It was very humid so lanes near the water were more crowded. Some nice churches to view, plenty of shops & food outlets. We walked between Old Town & Morgen Beach-takes you past the Ballet Dancer statue and some nice sea views –very nice think we are spoilt by living on the coast in Aust. Our bus ride back ended up being by Alba Tours- a real milk run of what could be 22km-took 65 minutes but did get good views of Kotor via road P22 after again going via Tivat. Looking at parking in Budva and overall traffic, the bus ride is still a pretty good option. The bus drivers are very skilful, they can smoke, talk on a mobile & drive a manual bus on a tight road all at the one time. Sit down dinner at Pronto Pizza- a good choice. After dinner we had a bit more of a walk around the Old Town & made sure of the spot where we were going to start our walk tomorrow.
Budva wiki info: Budva - Wikipedia
Old Town Budva is much more compact than its counterpart in Kotor. Budva apparently dates from the 5th century BC. It was very humid so lanes near the water were more crowded. Some nice churches to view, plenty of shops & food outlets. We walked between Old Town & Morgen Beach-takes you past the Ballet Dancer statue and some nice sea views –very nice think we are spoilt by living on the coast in Aust. Our bus ride back ended up being by Alba Tours- a real milk run of what could be 22km-took 65 minutes but did get good views of Kotor via road P22 after again going via Tivat. Looking at parking in Budva and overall traffic, the bus ride is still a pretty good option. The bus drivers are very skilful, they can smoke, talk on a mobile & drive a manual bus on a tight road all at the one time. Sit down dinner at Pronto Pizza- a good choice. After dinner we had a bit more of a walk around the Old Town & made sure of the spot where we were going to start our walk tomorrow.
RB
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June 6th
As per the forecast a much clearer & warmer day. We had read several blogs re climbing up to St John’s Fortress/Castle of San Giovanni. Taking into account our fitness we decided to take the Austro-Hungarian route rather than the main hike that clambers the 1,350 steps up 400 metre. We ended up high above the Fortress at 520 odd metres ascent then descended back down our path, climbed through the stone window & met up with the masses that had taken the steps. Our route was excellent-steady switchbacks as you ascended, out of the crowds, great views at all times and a bit more shade. We had encounters with goats, donkeys, dogs, cats and a cow that had convinced an American that it was a dangerous bull!
How is it that you can look at people in the distance & know in advance they are going to be a pain in the butt re sharing access to the narrow stairs & pathway-some on the forum would not be surprised to know the French were the worst numbers wise!
It was great to still be able to complete the physical challenge of the climb after not doing such hikes for 4yrs or so.
The number of times the "Marella Discovery" appears in our photos of the day reflects the shape of the harbour & the route we took
Our starting point
About all the land is good for
The menacing cow
Ruins along the back track
Stone window leading to the main stairs
As per the forecast a much clearer & warmer day. We had read several blogs re climbing up to St John’s Fortress/Castle of San Giovanni. Taking into account our fitness we decided to take the Austro-Hungarian route rather than the main hike that clambers the 1,350 steps up 400 metre. We ended up high above the Fortress at 520 odd metres ascent then descended back down our path, climbed through the stone window & met up with the masses that had taken the steps. Our route was excellent-steady switchbacks as you ascended, out of the crowds, great views at all times and a bit more shade. We had encounters with goats, donkeys, dogs, cats and a cow that had convinced an American that it was a dangerous bull!
How is it that you can look at people in the distance & know in advance they are going to be a pain in the butt re sharing access to the narrow stairs & pathway-some on the forum would not be surprised to know the French were the worst numbers wise!
It was great to still be able to complete the physical challenge of the climb after not doing such hikes for 4yrs or so.
The number of times the "Marella Discovery" appears in our photos of the day reflects the shape of the harbour & the route we took
Our starting point
About all the land is good for
The menacing cow
Ruins along the back track
Stone window leading to the main stairs
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RB
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Back in the Old Town after about 3hrs we celebrated with our first gelato of the trip.
We then wandered some more of the Old Town & had a lazy afternoon.
For dinner at Tanjga-a couple of minutes downhill from our apartment. Every night we had seen long lines. Must have timed our run well. Got a seat out the back & then lined up inside to order. Honesty system where you help yourself to drinks at the fridge out the back. Ordered the 2nd smallest meat option in mixed meat with grilled vegies-plenty for the 2 of us-chicken kebab, sausage, steak (pleasantly surprised by it) eggplant, peppers, tomato, salad & some great sauces. Plus 2X 500ml cans of cold beer plus 2X small bottles of chardonnay & then you walk around to the main service area & asked what you drank- all for 23 Euro!
This is a link to various reviews for the 2nd rated restaurant in Kotor
TANJGA, Kotor - Updated 2019 Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - TripAdvisor
Typical of the stalls outside the Old Town
Few general scenes from within the Old Town
We then wandered some more of the Old Town & had a lazy afternoon.
For dinner at Tanjga-a couple of minutes downhill from our apartment. Every night we had seen long lines. Must have timed our run well. Got a seat out the back & then lined up inside to order. Honesty system where you help yourself to drinks at the fridge out the back. Ordered the 2nd smallest meat option in mixed meat with grilled vegies-plenty for the 2 of us-chicken kebab, sausage, steak (pleasantly surprised by it) eggplant, peppers, tomato, salad & some great sauces. Plus 2X 500ml cans of cold beer plus 2X small bottles of chardonnay & then you walk around to the main service area & asked what you drank- all for 23 Euro!
This is a link to various reviews for the 2nd rated restaurant in Kotor
TANJGA, Kotor - Updated 2019 Restaurant Reviews, Photos & Phone Number - TripAdvisor
Typical of the stalls outside the Old Town
Few general scenes from within the Old Town
RB
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8th June-Last full day in Kator and a great weather day. Some walking around Old Town & then a 3hr speedboat ride-plenty of options, touts everywhere & we managed a good discount on the 30 Euro fare. We ended up travelling with Seamount. A near new boat with 4 adults & 3 youngsters onboard (they group you up). A 140hp Susuki on the back meant we covered ground very quickly-all boats seem to go flat-out all the time around the Bay of Kotor/Boka Bay. The Blue Cave, Submarine Tunnel/Base, Our Lady of the Rock & Perast were all stops offered-great view of the Bay & its villages & life on the Bay. Saw Mamula (Fortress/Wartime Concentration Camp from a distance). Also saw a fish farm on the way out-had no knowledge it existed but apparently they raise Sea bass, Sea Bream & assorted shellfish & mussels. We had no hassles getting on & off at the stops & a had great look around. The harbour was pretty busy today-Le Lyrial, Sea Cloud & MSC Magnifica were all visiting. Noticed the heat when we got back to the Old Town in Kotor-one thermometer was showing 33c. Dinner at Ladovina-receives good reviews and was a good meal-pleasant outdoor setting, extremely polite staff & good food. Kotor has been a step-up for food!
Distant View of Fish farm
Entry to the Blue Cave
Mamula
Entry to one of the submarine tunnels
Inside the tunnel
Island of St George near Perast
Church of Our Lady of the Rock
Bit of Info re Our Lady of the Rocks Our Lady of the Rocks - Wikipedia
Approaching Perast
Distant View of Fish farm
Entry to the Blue Cave
Mamula
Entry to one of the submarine tunnels
Inside the tunnel
Island of St George near Perast
Church of Our Lady of the Rock
Bit of Info re Our Lady of the Rocks Our Lady of the Rocks - Wikipedia
Approaching Perast
RB
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The Lady E was still around-costings are well beyond us LADY E Yacht Charter Price - Amels Luxury Yacht Charter
MSC Magnifica
Views from within Old Town
Passed these 2 hopefuls on our way home from dinner
One of the abandoned buildings
MSC Magnifica
Views from within Old Town
Passed these 2 hopefuls on our way home from dinner
One of the abandoned buildings
RB
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9th June-Kotor to Zabljak by Bus
About a 2 minute walk from the apartment to the station and the bus is in early so we pay the extra 1 Euro to put the bags under the bus. Only 7 passengers. A fantastic viewing ride via Niksic. First 30 minutes is along the bay then a climb. The road surface is excellent except for around 20 minutes of roadworks. There has been a lot of rain in May so it was either green countryside or rock. A few spots where radar was set up. We had a bus change at Niksik to an older bus but again a safe conservative driver. From Niksic to Zabljak included a nice lake area, more livestock around and rock fences in play. Saw a small wind farm at one stage-1st evidence of alternative energy. We were met at the station by our host-the rental house is only about 5 minutes walk.
The Magnifica as seen from our balcony on the morning of our departure
All the following photos are taken out of the bus.
Looking back down on the Bay
Great road surface & very little traffic
I understand this to be Slansko jezero 617m above sea level
Some of the rock fences
Our 2nd bus. Hotel in background is operating but incomplete-quite a lot of construction happening here but we were to find nowhere near the scale of Zlatibor which was our next stop
About a 2 minute walk from the apartment to the station and the bus is in early so we pay the extra 1 Euro to put the bags under the bus. Only 7 passengers. A fantastic viewing ride via Niksic. First 30 minutes is along the bay then a climb. The road surface is excellent except for around 20 minutes of roadworks. There has been a lot of rain in May so it was either green countryside or rock. A few spots where radar was set up. We had a bus change at Niksik to an older bus but again a safe conservative driver. From Niksic to Zabljak included a nice lake area, more livestock around and rock fences in play. Saw a small wind farm at one stage-1st evidence of alternative energy. We were met at the station by our host-the rental house is only about 5 minutes walk.
The Magnifica as seen from our balcony on the morning of our departure
All the following photos are taken out of the bus.
Looking back down on the Bay
Great road surface & very little traffic
I understand this to be Slansko jezero 617m above sea level
Some of the rock fences
Our 2nd bus. Hotel in background is operating but incomplete-quite a lot of construction happening here but we were to find nowhere near the scale of Zlatibor which was our next stop
craven morehead
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this looks great so far!
RB
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I have posted a review of our Zabljak rental house here Macondo House Zabljak Montenegro
First night dinner was at Mali Raj-well cooked simple food, good service & free sweets given to us. This is around a 5 min walk from our house.
9th June-The Durmitor Ring.
We teamed up with a Spanish guy (we paid 40 Euros per person) to do a circular drive of the main peaks, gorges & lakes. Day trip organised through the main man at Car Camp Razvrsje A couple of schnapps before starting then around 85-100 km covered over about 6hrs(Koomot app said we did 100km). Absolutely top class viewing and plenty of photo opportunities offered by our driver( brother of organiser)-he had limited English but as a local he knew all the spots. He is a guide & climb leader in summer & a ski instructor in winter. A fantastic day (highlight of the trip so far) topped off with a great fish meal at the finish. We travelled in a Mondeo station wagon-there were a few motorhomes(wouldn't want to be driving one of those, plenty of motorbikes, sedans & 4WDs. If have snipped a few web pages as a bit of summary of what we did.
Tara Canyon- It is the deepest gorge in Europe and the second deepest in the world after the Grand Canyon
Mala Crna Gora- means "Little Montenegro". The village is known because there is no access during winter months and its inhabitants are cut off from the rest of the world for months.
Sušica Canyon-The panoramic road crosses the Sušica Canyon, which is 15 kilometres long and up to 700 metres deep.
Lake Sušica- dries up completely during summer time.
Durmitor National Park and Nature Park Piva-The Durmitor National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country's most important natural treasures. The Durmitor Ring also passes through the Piva Nature Park - the first nature park in Montenegro. Along the route you will see the highest and most impressive peaks of the Durmitor Mountains, such as Prutaš (2,393 m), Bobotov Kuk (2,523 m) and Sedlena Greda (2,227 m).
I have gathered our photos from 2 sources so some will be out of order & perhaps a bit repetitive
A good start a couple of minutes out of town
That is our road on the left
For perspective, those are houses over on the right hand side
There are matresses in the huts in the foreground
Prutas
First night dinner was at Mali Raj-well cooked simple food, good service & free sweets given to us. This is around a 5 min walk from our house.
9th June-The Durmitor Ring.
We teamed up with a Spanish guy (we paid 40 Euros per person) to do a circular drive of the main peaks, gorges & lakes. Day trip organised through the main man at Car Camp Razvrsje A couple of schnapps before starting then around 85-100 km covered over about 6hrs(Koomot app said we did 100km). Absolutely top class viewing and plenty of photo opportunities offered by our driver( brother of organiser)-he had limited English but as a local he knew all the spots. He is a guide & climb leader in summer & a ski instructor in winter. A fantastic day (highlight of the trip so far) topped off with a great fish meal at the finish. We travelled in a Mondeo station wagon-there were a few motorhomes(wouldn't want to be driving one of those, plenty of motorbikes, sedans & 4WDs. If have snipped a few web pages as a bit of summary of what we did.
Tara Canyon- It is the deepest gorge in Europe and the second deepest in the world after the Grand Canyon
Mala Crna Gora- means "Little Montenegro". The village is known because there is no access during winter months and its inhabitants are cut off from the rest of the world for months.
Sušica Canyon-The panoramic road crosses the Sušica Canyon, which is 15 kilometres long and up to 700 metres deep.
Lake Sušica- dries up completely during summer time.
Durmitor National Park and Nature Park Piva-The Durmitor National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the country's most important natural treasures. The Durmitor Ring also passes through the Piva Nature Park - the first nature park in Montenegro. Along the route you will see the highest and most impressive peaks of the Durmitor Mountains, such as Prutaš (2,393 m), Bobotov Kuk (2,523 m) and Sedlena Greda (2,227 m).
I have gathered our photos from 2 sources so some will be out of order & perhaps a bit repetitive
A good start a couple of minutes out of town
That is our road on the left
For perspective, those are houses over on the right hand side
There are matresses in the huts in the foreground
Prutas
RB
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Day 3 10th June. Black Lake Walk. Wiki link here Black Lake (Montenegro) - Wikipedia
3 Euros in a cab gets us to the entrance to Black Lake (best known, largest and deepest of 18 glacial lakes of the Durmitor range). We already have our National Park tickets (6 Euros each for 3 days). From the entry there is a flat paved walk of around 700 m to the edge of what is 2 halves-Big & Little Lake. Today is virtually wind free so reflections abound. Again signage is great and for the most part footing is pretty good. We start on the 3.5km circular track before we branch off to see Lake Zminje- that track is muddy in parts but pretty goods overall & well worth the effort with less people and the spruce and other conifers form a close barrier to the edge.
Back at Black Lake the numbers have increased a bit but still plenty of chances for photos and to read the info boards. Not mentioned in any reviews that we had read but at this time of the year the waterfalls/springs/celine cut the path in spots (or it did for us) so it is wet sandals for me & wet socks for Mrs RB). The water is bloody cold!
There are also sections of steep old stone steps so the walk around is not for everyone.
Prior to this trip we bought a subscription to Koomoot to help plan our walks & to reduce the chances of arguing/getting lost-today it says we covered 11.4km between entering/exiting the National Park control area. While we waited for a cab back to town a group traipsed past-they were instructed they had around 700 metres to walk each way to reach the lake & were to be back in an hour-many were not going to see much- there were around a dozen coaches parked on the approaches as we returned to town, not sure what numbers are like in peak season.
General Photos from the day
Lake Zminje
Again the vegetation under water
3 Euros in a cab gets us to the entrance to Black Lake (best known, largest and deepest of 18 glacial lakes of the Durmitor range). We already have our National Park tickets (6 Euros each for 3 days). From the entry there is a flat paved walk of around 700 m to the edge of what is 2 halves-Big & Little Lake. Today is virtually wind free so reflections abound. Again signage is great and for the most part footing is pretty good. We start on the 3.5km circular track before we branch off to see Lake Zminje- that track is muddy in parts but pretty goods overall & well worth the effort with less people and the spruce and other conifers form a close barrier to the edge.
Back at Black Lake the numbers have increased a bit but still plenty of chances for photos and to read the info boards. Not mentioned in any reviews that we had read but at this time of the year the waterfalls/springs/celine cut the path in spots (or it did for us) so it is wet sandals for me & wet socks for Mrs RB). The water is bloody cold!
There are also sections of steep old stone steps so the walk around is not for everyone.
Prior to this trip we bought a subscription to Koomoot to help plan our walks & to reduce the chances of arguing/getting lost-today it says we covered 11.4km between entering/exiting the National Park control area. While we waited for a cab back to town a group traipsed past-they were instructed they had around 700 metres to walk each way to reach the lake & were to be back in an hour-many were not going to see much- there were around a dozen coaches parked on the approaches as we returned to town, not sure what numbers are like in peak season.
General Photos from the day
Lake Zminje
Again the vegetation under water
RB
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Day 4 11th June-
Last full day in Zabljak a more "mundane day" but still great scenery. Some washing then walking short distances in various directions from town. More great weather. Had a great pizza at Pizzeria Balkan for lunch-had a conversation with a couple of young Czech guys who disappeared to their car & came back with a couple of cans of Czech beer as a gift to us!
Country lane walk heading south
Busts that surround the Spomenik in the centre of town-pretty epic views in background-this webpage looks to be very educational Spomenik Database | The Monumental History of Yugoslavia
Inside the Church of the Transfiguration-dates from 1870- the church is a monument to Montenegrin victory in battle against the Turks. Apparently it was the only buiding not destroyed during WW2
Fairly particular about their veggie gardens
Street side stall-owner assured me some of the produce had aphrodisiac properties
Not sure what has prompted the Europeans to offer ketchup with their pizzas
Last full day in Zabljak a more "mundane day" but still great scenery. Some washing then walking short distances in various directions from town. More great weather. Had a great pizza at Pizzeria Balkan for lunch-had a conversation with a couple of young Czech guys who disappeared to their car & came back with a couple of cans of Czech beer as a gift to us!
Country lane walk heading south
Busts that surround the Spomenik in the centre of town-pretty epic views in background-this webpage looks to be very educational Spomenik Database | The Monumental History of Yugoslavia
Inside the Church of the Transfiguration-dates from 1870- the church is a monument to Montenegrin victory in battle against the Turks. Apparently it was the only buiding not destroyed during WW2
Fairly particular about their veggie gardens
Street side stall-owner assured me some of the produce had aphrodisiac properties
Not sure what has prompted the Europeans to offer ketchup with their pizzas
craven morehead
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RB
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Zabljak (Montenegro) to Zlatibor (Serbia) by bus
First real hiccup of the trip. The planned morning bus was cancelled-unexplained but it was suggested there not enough travellers. Killed time walking around town. Caught the 2pm bus with Marco Tours. Travelled over the famous Tara Bridge-an absolute zoo, people just walking wherever they pleased. Had a 45 min stop after 1 hr-Pljevlja where there is a thermal power plant that supplies 45% of Montenegro’s power & a coal mine that is 100% of Montenegro’s coal (power plant too big to photgraph from bus) and eventually dropped on edge of Zlatibor-bit of confusion finding apartment-no street names or numbers & no outside signage for apartment.
In between some great scenery, lush growth, the power station, big open mine and big timber yards. the border crossing wasvery easy & efficient-we didn’t leave the bus but passports were taken as a group and came back stamped. Road surface was again generally excellent and the Serb drivers seem much more aggressive on the highway.
Not a good day for photos, all taken from the bus
Countryside near Tara Bridge
Uvac
One of the many large hotels in Zlatibor-town is promoting itself as a spa retreat
First real hiccup of the trip. The planned morning bus was cancelled-unexplained but it was suggested there not enough travellers. Killed time walking around town. Caught the 2pm bus with Marco Tours. Travelled over the famous Tara Bridge-an absolute zoo, people just walking wherever they pleased. Had a 45 min stop after 1 hr-Pljevlja where there is a thermal power plant that supplies 45% of Montenegro’s power & a coal mine that is 100% of Montenegro’s coal (power plant too big to photgraph from bus) and eventually dropped on edge of Zlatibor-bit of confusion finding apartment-no street names or numbers & no outside signage for apartment.
In between some great scenery, lush growth, the power station, big open mine and big timber yards. the border crossing wasvery easy & efficient-we didn’t leave the bus but passports were taken as a group and came back stamped. Road surface was again generally excellent and the Serb drivers seem much more aggressive on the highway.
Not a good day for photos, all taken from the bus
Countryside near Tara Bridge
Uvac
One of the many large hotels in Zlatibor-town is promoting itself as a spa retreat
RB
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Zlatibor
Bit of info here Zlatibor | National Tourism Organisation of Serbia and here ISTN - Mountain Tourism
This was a big change from Montenegro & unexpectedly busy with massive apartment construction happening. Huge numbers of young people-a sports tournament was on & the town is heaven for young kids-permanent kids rides like an Aussie Country town show, Dino Park. The whole place “seems” more affluent than Montenegro. English is not widely spoken but we are received well & some places have an English menu.
Day 1 12th May-later than expected arrival. We found one of the many ATMs & ballpark 1000 Dinar=$14 Aust is not an easy conversion on the brain. There is a well stocked supermarket where we stocked up on beer & wine, coffee & fruit for breakfast- we noted the locals don’t bring bags, Had a burger & a few drinks & an early night.
I have posted a review of our Zlatibor apartment here Onyx Apartments Zlatibor Serbia
Part of the main square-plenty of construction happening with massive apartment buildings
These "pop-up" look shops are permanent-plenty selling cheap junk to kids
Bit of info here Zlatibor | National Tourism Organisation of Serbia and here ISTN - Mountain Tourism
This was a big change from Montenegro & unexpectedly busy with massive apartment construction happening. Huge numbers of young people-a sports tournament was on & the town is heaven for young kids-permanent kids rides like an Aussie Country town show, Dino Park. The whole place “seems” more affluent than Montenegro. English is not widely spoken but we are received well & some places have an English menu.
Day 1 12th May-later than expected arrival. We found one of the many ATMs & ballpark 1000 Dinar=$14 Aust is not an easy conversion on the brain. There is a well stocked supermarket where we stocked up on beer & wine, coffee & fruit for breakfast- we noted the locals don’t bring bags, Had a burger & a few drinks & an early night.
I have posted a review of our Zlatibor apartment here Onyx Apartments Zlatibor Serbia
Part of the main square-plenty of construction happening with massive apartment buildings
These "pop-up" look shops are permanent-plenty selling cheap junk to kids
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