Japanuary 2024 - the trip that nearly wasn't

Noritake Gardens - Nagoya Friday 9 Feb 24

Next was a post-prandial stroll of abut 20 minutes on a clear blue afternoon to the Noritake Gardens, site of the original Noritake Factory. A bit of an homage to both of our mothers, who as fashionable brides of the 1950s, both had Noritake dinner sets. Pretty sure my mum's is Legate a pretty blue and white embossed design which was released in Japan in 1956. Mum and Dad were married in 1959, so that seems about right. we also visited the craft centre (¥300 each, senior price) which contained painstaking detail about the history of bone china in Japan, and the technical processes of making, firing, glazing etc. It was quite interesting, and very detailed. Good English on the displays too. You are supposed to be able to watch the "artisans at work", but as it was getting towards closing time, I think a few had gone home. Still, we managed to see the very painstaking finishing of a cute child's piece (a teddy bear with a heart and balloon) with a tiny paint brush and clay slurry to attach the various pieces before firing. It gave me some insight into why Noritake is so expensive, as we were given the impression that every piece in this range was hand finished. We also saw gold edging being applied to a massively ornate teapot. Not at all to my taste, but impressive nonetheless.

The we went into the "lifestyle centre" aka the shop selling the awares. I have never felt so anxious to be a clumsy gaijin with big feet and a winter coat! There was some seriously expensive china in this shop including this tea cup and saucer for ¥104,500 (around $1,100) and thecommemorative annual plates for ¥250,000-383,000 ($2,600- $4,000) :eek: :eek: :eek:. I was so stressed that one of us was going to break something that I could not wait to go outside! TBH, none of it was realy to my taste.


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Meandered through the gardens, and enjoyed the warm late afternoon sun sitting by a (man made) babbling brook with koi in the Noritake Garden, and also visted the pretty and serene Noritake shrine, which was used by family and employees of the original factory (which is no longer operational).

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Home via the Japan Post ATM. As I've mentioned elsewhere, you do still need a bit of cash in Japan, so we took out ¥50,000 using Macquarie debit card. Got a great exchange rate of ¥98.2 to $1, and no bank fees. JP ATMs charge ¥220 (about $2.20) per transaction, so it's not very much at all on a larger transaction. It's the same at 7/11 Bank ATMs too. Such a great deal, way better than a travel money card (Qantas Money, I'm calling you out here) or exchanging before you leave home (travelex etc). Just don't use ATMs at either of the airports, as I understand they charge higher fees and give a worse exchange rate.

Then we headed back to JR Takashimaya food court for a lovely dinner involving deep fried bread puffs filled with different flavours of curry (Matsuura bakery) and some little cakes for desert.

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Can we send skis, or can't we?? - Friday 9 Feb 24 Nagoya Part 4

Headed back to the hotel, tired but happy as they say in the classics with the plan of packing our bags for tomorrow's departure to Nagasaki.

Returned to the room to find an envelope addressed to me on the bed. I didn't open it, as I thought it was probably the invoice or something. Had a nice long shower, put on my hotel PJs, packed my bags and went to shove the envelope into my backpack when some spidey sense or other told me I should probably open it.

Nearly had a conniption to read "there is an issue relating to shipping of your skis. Please call at the front reception as soon as possible". My brain was flooded with thoughts like OMG we have been out all day - are we too late to sort it out now? What do you mean "an issue"?? What is our recovery plan this time???

Mr Seat 0A took one for the team and said he'd go down and sort it. He was gone for ages and my anxiety kept on rising. He finally came back and as he walked through the door he called out "don't worry, the skis will go to Haneda".

In short, the Black Cat agent had arrived with the plastic ski cover and to collect the skis, ony to say " these skis are in a proper ski bag, they don't need the ski cover". Now in Australia, they probably just would have taken the skis, but in Japan, this raised the problem that we had been incorrectly charged ¥400 for the ski cover, and this rendered all the paperwork incorrect. "So please refund to the customer, re-do the paperwork and I will come back tomorrow to collect." Mr Seat 0A said, "oh don't worry about it, it's only ¥400.) But that was not culturally acceptable. So they fully refunded his card for the whole transaction. Re-did the paperwork with the correct payment details, re-billed his card for the amount less the ¥400 and confirmed that the skis would be collected tomorrow - after we checked out.

Overall, I'm relieved, but I admit that I'm still feeling a bit anxious. Who knew it would be so hard??? Fingers crossed 🤞🤞.
 
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Nagoya is often labelled as a bland boring city, but this is our second visit here and we have enjoyed it both times.

Some other things to do here include the Toyota Museum (different to the Toyota Factory Tour, which we have not been able to make work for us) and the Maglev and Shinkansen Museum as well as a day trip to the historic Edo era town of Takayama. I've included a couple of photos of these from our earlier trip to Nagoya which was in 2017. If you get the chance, consider going there. It's also blessed with lots and lots of great food choices - which didn't really feature for us this trip, but there are restaurants everywhere offering great food at very reasonable prices.

Toyota Museum - toyota company was originally a textile firm, and expanded to manufacture various items before becoming famous for cars. Many of their historical machines are still in running condition. An interesting visit. We stayed much longer than I thought we would - about 5 hrs for the visit.
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Maglev and Shinkansen Museum - was really a full train museum and quite enjoyable. Sold lots of train themed foods and souvenirs. A cute place to visit - such a lot of trains. We stayed about 3 hrs.

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And Takayama is just beautiful, and a very scenic train trip too.

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The straw ball indicates a sake distillery....

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And finally, the famous "I'll meet you at the clock" in JR Nagoya. Interesting to note the level of mask wearing in 2017, way before COVID.

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We go to Nagasaki. Do our skis go to Haneda??? Saturday 10 Feb 2024

Another nice buffet breakfast, a walk to the station with much less luggage than on arrival, another trip to a totally packed JT Takashimaya for bentos. For ¥1,000 each, this is what I got:

Tempura prawn

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Pork katsu and hōjicha

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And for ¥550, I got 5 more azuki an

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We covered old ground on the first part of this run down through Ōsaka and on to Himeji, but soon we were cutting a new path down to the south west. Two of our three train changes were generally smooth, and we even had enough time to grab a coffee at Shin Kobe. The only tricky one was at Hakata, where we had 9 minutes to leave the Shinkansen tracks and find the Kamome Relay. I can say for sure that we would have missed that connection had I not been able to ask for directions in Japanese to the correct platform. We made it with less than 1 minute to spare o_O.

Kamome Relay was an interesting train - we were on Huis Ten Bosch, which was bright orange outside and 1930s luxury inside. Parquetry flooring, seats on raised platforms, plush fabric and linen doilies on all seats. Plus a great view out the front and a good opportunity to observe the driver's performative white glove safety checks (if you know, you'll know what I mean by this).

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Final leg on the new (2022) Kyushu Kamome (seagull) shinkansen for the last 30 minutes into Nagasaki. It will be good when they finally construct shinkansen track the whole way.

The walk from the station to our hotel Dormy Inn Premium Nagasaki Ekimae was only a couple of hundred metres, but as pavements go, it was very rough and was quite an effort. But finally we were there.

Once we checked into our room, Mr Seat 0A checked the Apple Airtag in the ski bag - and it was no longer in Nagoya, but was moving towards Tokyo! OMG, I nearly cried with relief. And to end the suspense, the next day, we checked again, and both bags were at Haneda Airport departures. Hallelujah!
 
We have been to Nagoya on 3 occasions. Loved it. Enjoyed the Noritake Gardens. Absolutely loved our visit to Arimatsu village near Nagoya. Lots of original buildings that were on the highway to Tokyo. It is a tie dye village and very good quality. We visited in early June and the hydrangeas were in bloom as a bonus.

And I always go to a Department store basement food hall. Just incredible I agree.
 
Did the Toyota Factory Tour in Toyota-Shi years ago...I can look it up in my diaries if you like.
From memory it was another suburban train and then a bus to the factory, took another hour or so from Nagoya. It was back in 2010 or so when the Prius was big news.

I remember the girl chasing me down the street from McDonalds as I left 10c (equivalent) or so in change on the counter rather than carry it one time. McDonalds had a Smoking Room inside it still back then!
 
I've been to Nagoya twice. Went to Inuyama Castle which was important as I wanted to complete the whole 5 National Treasure collection 🤣 (Nagoya Castle otoh, meh)

And the food was great! Hitsumabushi yummmmm 😍
 
Yes I agree. We prefer to go to more original castles (eg Himeji, Matsumoto) than the reconstructions.

I've done the 5 National Treasure now, Himeji, Matsumoto, Hikone, Inuyama & Matsue.
Plus Iyo Matsuyama.
Next target is to visit all 12 original castles! Six to go ha ha 😂 (coughu Matsuyama, Uwajima, Marugame, Kochi, Maruoka & Hirosaki, hmmm I can see some difficulties here....)
 
I've done the 5 National Treasure now, Himeji, Matsumoto, Hikone, Inuyama & Matsue.
Plus Iyo Matsuyama.
Next target is to visit all 12 original castles! Six to go ha ha 😂 (coughu Matsuyama, Uwajima, Marugame, Kochi, Maruoka & Hirosaki, hmmm I can see some difficulties here....)
Might have to follow in your footsteps!
 
Might have to follow in your footsteps!

Several are quite out of the way tbh...
Maruoka & coughu Mastuyama is a bit difficult for example...Hirosaki I've been wanting to go so should be no problem.
Marugame, Kochi and Uwajima are all in Shikoku so maybe I can knock them off in one trip some day!
 
Things Go Pear Shaped at Nagano JR - 8 Feb 2024

First order of business was to get rid of the skis etc. Then activate JR Pass and book seats, then a coffeee. Hanging out for a coffee after a week of poor Shiga Kogen options ☕☕☕.

So off we roll with our bags to the Black Cat Office we have used for the last 5 visits, only to find a closed roller door. No signs, just a door. Hmm, maybe they are at coffee??? Waited a bit, but no action, so asked around and the consensus seemed to be that the office had closed, permanently. Off to tourist information for advice. Hmm, you could go to the convenience store or maybe the Post Office. Toddled off to the Family Mart (only konbini in the station plaza) and conducted the transaction all in Japanese but "no sorry, we do not send skis to the airport. Please go to the Post Office near #7 bus stop and ask there." So onwards to the post office, wait my turn in a longish line and happy days "Yes, we can send skis to airport." It's not Black Cat, but is the post office equivalent. And it's ¥3,700 instead of ¥2,600 per bag, I am heaving a sigh of relief. Things were looking grim for a bit there.

Race outside to Mr Seat 0A and lug all the bags into the post office. But clearly this clerk had never done it before. She needed a lot of information from me like:
  • What is the street address of Haneda Airport? (um I don't know).
  • Is the departures on 3F or 2F? (um I I don't know).
  • Which Airline? (ooh I know that one, Qantas! except she did not recognise Qantas as an Airline and kept asking if it was JAL or ANA).
  • Please wait a moment while I call a colleague. Long phone call that I could not understand.
  • So, you want to send your skis to Australia? (No no no, I want to send to Haneda airport, collect skis and take with me on Qantas flight as my checked baggage).
  • Oh, another phone call to colleague. When she hungup, I asked her where I would collect the skis at Haneda Airport (I don't know, I will call my colleague again).
At this point I just got really nervous, apologised for taking up her time and said I would find a Yamato office and excused myself.

We need to arrange a plan B. We cannot tour Japan lugging this amount of baggage.

So Mr Seat 0A did the only senisble thing at that point - he arranged for a coffee and cinnamon scroll as thinking fuel. Boy was I glad to see that.

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nice glasses. reminds me of Jins glasses/black frame glasses that everyone wears in Japan.
 
Well, back comes Gan-San, and says "I'm sorry but Black Cat says you cannot send skis to the airport." I nearly hyperventilated at the thought of lugging those skis around. And we knew that this could not be true - to add insult to injury, as we were hauling our skis from the station, we passed a Black Cat van outside an upmarket hotel and the driver was loading.... a ski bag just like ours. of course, it might have been going to a ski resort not the airport, but it certainly seemed odd to me.

I was steeling myself to discuss a new Plan B with Mr Seat 0A which involved going up to Tokyo tomorrow on the shinkansen (thank you JR Pass) and sending to Handed from there, but luckily by now, Mr Seat 0A had managed to re-locate the web site he had found previously. This clearly said that you could send skis from Nagoya to either Haneda or Narita!!
If it was up to me I would not sweat it and come back tomorrow when another staff will let you pack the item hopefully (after all it's a game of probability just like calling the Qantas customer centre until you find a person who actually knows what's going on). However that's one more chore that I have to leave for tomorrow and the sooner you get rid of it the better🤣...
 

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