Jordan Egypt March 2023

[Askance]

My first trip report *clears throat nervously*. In March 2020 i was one week away from leaving for this same Jordan and Egypt trip when the government shut the Australian borders due to the Covid pandemic. Three years later, it finally happened.

Departing ADL on 12 March, flying Qatar airways through Doha to Amman. I was in business class for the flight but as i was attempting to earn Qatar gold I couldnt use my Qantas gold to choose a seat. From the time i booked to the day i left, every other seat was blocked out, but there are no bad seats when you have a QSuite , and i ended up in 8A, first window seat of the smaller business class cabin.

Arriving in Doha this was my first visit to the Al Safwa Lounge and while i enjoyed its facilities, i think it's a bit soulless compared to the Al Mourjan. The part where you entered your boarding bus for the next onward flight directly from the lounge was a great idea though. Connecting onto Amman, enjoyed some champagne and a few hours later arrived at Queen Alia airport to be met prior to immigration by my Bunnik tour rep, along with another couple who'd travelled on the same flight. Off to the Intercontinental Amman and a quick swim to shake off the 7 1/2 hour time difference

 

[Askance]

Jordan in March has a crazy amount of rain, making the first day's visit to Jerash and Ajilon a slippery affair. But the historical sites were well worth the drenching. After this i always had a second pair of dry shoes on the bus
In the forest of Ajilon we had a cookie making class, and then got to sample what we made. Most people in the tour group bought cookies and they reappeared at various times as a most welcome snack. Our guide never did understand our need to stop for lunch unless it was a sit down meal as part of the program, so most people learned have their own midday food at the ready.

 

[Pushka]

Nice work. We will be in Aqaba briefly next month. Curious as to how you got access to Al Safwa on a Business class fare though?

 

[Askance]

Nice work. We will be in Aqaba briefly next month. Curious as to how you got access to Al Safwa on a Business class fare though?

The flight onto Amman was First as Qatar call their regional business. Trust me its not real First but you do get the access.

Here's one of the people in First showing that its not just Aussies who do this partic unclassy thing. Note the crocs visible below.

 

[Pushka]

The flight onto Amman was First as Qatar call their regional business. Trust me its not real First but you do get the access.

Heres one of the people in First showing that its not just Aussies who do this partic unclassy thing

Ah yes. I think Rooflyer did the same thing. Nice trick! I read it is so that the high rollers want to tell people they are travelling in F and not pleb J so it's a fake designation to suit them.

Gosh people can be so gross in public. And money doesn't buy class.

 

[Askance]

Leaving Amman and its traffic jams behind, quick stop at a mosaic making workshop and to the Dead Sea (hotel was Crowne Plaza Dead Sea). By the time we arrive its 10 degrees C and drizzling. I opt for an afternoon nap instead of jumping in. I will probably regret this one day

btw visiting a local supermarket is always interesting. I got a massive salad for equiv of AU $3, and avoided another huge restaurant meal that takes four hours to digest.


the Dead Sea, such a vivid colour it took my breath away. Israel visible in the distance.

 

[kpc]

Following with interest as we have just returned ftom Egypt. Jordan. Israel and Istanbul

 

[RooFlyer]

Al Safwa Lounge and while i enjoyed its facilities, i think it's a bit soulless compared to the Al Mourjan.

I said something much the same in a recent TR - but at least its quiet, unlike Al Mourjan which can become a real zoo!

 

[Askance]

I said something much the same in a recent TR - but at least its quiet, unlike Al Mourjan which can become a real zoo!

Yes, i was in Doha Airport just as fasting ceased for that day in late March and i imagine it would have been a feeding frenzy in the main lounges. People were dropping down in the middle of the airport having picnics

 

[Askance]

Onwards to Kerak castle, it was most interesting hearing the history from the local perspective vs Western. The land surrounding Kerak was so bleak you wondered how thw country supported life then it turns into this relatively green area. Our guide said that most of Jordan gets its water piped from the artesianal basins in Wadi Rum.

As with most historic sites, its right next to or in the middle of current towns.

Onto to little Petra. Really enjoyed this but you have to see it before Petra or itd be a huge letdown

 

[Askance]

Petra is a site thats been on my bucket list for years and I recommend it without reservation. Four thousand people went thru the day we were there but the grandeur of the site just doesnt come through fully in pictures. The Treasury was amazing but the highlight was the climb to the monastery (which was damn hard work). I came down on a donkey to save my knees and that was an experience and a half.


The Monastary

The Treasury

View from our hotel, Petra Guesthouse. You couldnt get a location any closer to the entry to Petra. Much appreciated at the end of the day.


Our guide giving us advice on how to pace yourself.

 

[Pushka]

Great photos.

 

[kpc]

Petra is a site thats been on my bucket list for years and I recommend it without reservation. Four thousand people went thru the day we were there but the grandeur of the site just doesnt come through fully in pictures. The Treasury was amazing but the highlight was the climb to the monastery (which was damn hard work). I came down on a donkey to save my knees and that was an experience and a half.

I agree...no photo or video can do justice to Petra....you need to see it with your own eyes! I nearly gave up a couple of times trekking up to the Monastery but eventually made it...I found it harder coming down as I have a dodgy left knee.... there was no way in hell I was getting on a donkey going up to / coming down from the Monastery...it looked very scary and dangerous!

PS: we were in Jordan 18-21 March around the same time as you I think

 

[Askance]

I agree...no photo or video can do justice to Petra....you need to see it with your own eyes! I nearly gave up a couple of times trekking up to the Monastery but eventually made it...I found it harder coming down as I have a dodgy left knee.... there was no way in hell I was getting on a donkey going up to / coming down from the Monastery...it looked very scary and dangerous!

PS: we were in Jordan 18-21 March around the same time as you I think

Going down is worse than up, i think. The handler guiding the donkey kept himself between the rock walls and my leg, i got the feeling otherwise the donkey would have happily scraped me off. My fellow travellers thought i was talking a risk, but I've ridden horses before, and it helped.

Did your knees take ages to recover afterwards, @kpc ?

 

[Pushka]

In a month I expect it will be hot. How difficult (ie gradient) is the walk back to the entrance. And for not the fastest walker uphill, how long would it take? I'm fast walking flat but uphill is a whole new beast. And the walk up the monastery, for Husband who is fit. How much of a walk from the Treasury. I know he will want to do it.

 

[kpc]

In a month I expect it will be hot. How difficult (ie gradient) is the walk back to the entrance. And for not the fastest walker uphill, how long would it take? I'm fast walking flat but uphill is a whole new beast. And the walk up the monastery, for Husband who is fit. How much of a walk from the Treasury. I know he will want to do it.

The gradient from Treasury to main entrance / Visitor centre is gentle....without stopping at least a 45 min walk at comfortable pace. From Treasury to Monastery, I would allow 75+ mins (without stopping) depending whether you need to stop for a break or two. If not in a rush, there are cafes / rest stops along the way which you should use if needed. You can always take an electric golf cart from entrance to Treasury for $$. OF course, there is the donkey..... Apparently there is a back way from Little Petra to the Monastery but you need to be driven from the Visitor Centre to there....tbh your main enemy will be the rain as it makes the track slippery and there is not much shelter from the rain

PS it was 2 degrees C when we were there 4 weeks ago

 

[RooFlyer]

From the Trasury (the start of the complex), its about 1.6km to the bottom of the valley sights; pretty gentle gradient. The monastery is ABOUT a further 1.3km climb. There's a nice cafe at the end of the valley.

At the start, add 2km walk from the edge of town to the Treasury, or if you get some sort of ride to the start of the Siq, the Siq is about 1.1 km long; well surfaced and a very gentle gradient.

EDIT: Oops, forgot this was in a TR. Apologies Askance!

 

[kpc]

The monastery is ABOUT a further 1.3km climb.

This took me about 50mins....they said to allow for an hour. The donkey / mule takes 20 mins!

 

[Myrna]

We are soon going to be in Jordan - with friends who are older than us (not that we are 'spring chickens'). So am interested in this TR. It was nice that kpc +1 came over on the weekend to share their interesting trip experience. We are going to be in Petra for 2 full days. One day I want to walk to the monastery via the front entrance (the Visitor Centre) - like kps said it was a real challenge of climbing up 800 steps and down 800 steps from the treasury to the monastery. kpc made it but warned to be careful as it was hard. Another day I want to start the walk from little petra (taking the 4x4 truck to the starting steps) to the monastery - then down 800 steps to the treasury. While this route is quieter, it appears to be quite difficult with steep ascending and descending. I have fear of height, so not sure what to do. I have watched a few youtube videos of this 'back door' route. Both hubby and kpc said I should not attempt it if I don't feel comfortable doing it - for health and safety reasons!

 

[Askance]

While this route is quieter, it appears to be quite difficult with steep ascending and descending. I have fear of height, so not sure what to do.

While I didnt experience the route from little Petra, my advice would be not to attempt the Monastery if you have a fear of heights. There are many other structures to visit in Petra, well worth your attention.