JP/SG/HK 2024 - Ups and downs!

Day 8:

Woke up yet again to more snow! Don't you love it when the forecast is wrong.
Had to semi pack the ski bag this morning while leaving out enough gear for 1 last hurrah.

We left Hirafu around 8am and made our way towards Jozankei Onsen then on to Sapporo Kokusai for 1 last morning on snow! Made a quick pit stop at Lawson Kyogoku which is almost mandatory on any trip from Niseko towards Sapporo for me at this stage! The drive was spectacular with heavy snow passing in and out allowing for some last views of Mt Yotei and Shiribetsu before passing through the mountain pass of Nakayama Toge (a place so snowy the ski resort here only opens in Autumn and Spring) and going through Jozankei and past Sapporo Lake to arrive at Kokusai around 10am.
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We paid about $50 each for a 4 hour pass and did 5 or 6 gondola laps. It's quite a small resort but fairly well known in Hokkaido for massive snow and some substantial off piste areas. Didn't explore too much of these but did have a blast enjoying our last hours of Hokkaido powder.
Also past this sign every lap which felt like it was mocking me...
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I have never stopped in Jozankei Onsen before, only passed through, so decided a post ride onsen there was well deserved. It is one of the more famous onsen resorts in Hokkaido particularly given its proximity to Sapporo. We chose the Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione as we knew it would have a public onsen available at the time we'd finish skiing. This is something to be aware of particularly when trying to use Hotel onsens as many have dedicated times for in-house guests and a daily cleaning schedule.
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Obviously it's near impossible to take photos inside however the above is pretty spot on. It was reasonably quiet in the middle of the day amongst a very large hotel and was probably the best onsen we have been to. Multiple baths of varying temperatures and mineral quality as well as a spectaular outdoor bath with a view over the valley. The amenities were also incredible including a shampoo 'bar' with about 13 different types of shampoo to try.

We left Jozankei and headed into Sapporo in the early afternoon to catch a Niseko friend who was there for the day. Ate yet another delicious bowl of ramen before saying farewell and checking into the ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino.
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For those of you who recall my last trip report in Miyazaki (and a night in Fukuoka) that trip was very IHG heavy so we used those points plus another $50 or so to redeem 2 nights here. Neglected to take photos but honestly nothing exciting about the hotel. Very standard mid range Japanese hotel, which can range from $75 a night to $250+ during the snow festival and summer.

What was exciting though was parking and unloading. The hotel has no dedicated drop off zone so we double parked in front of the hotels car stacker entrance (which we werent able to use) and had a very lovely japanese staff member attempt to help us in snow and ice unloading the vehicle while wearing high heels. This was honestly a bit of a nightmare with the amount of sutff we had, and considering the days ski wear wasn't neatly packed into the boardbag. After about 10 minutes of back and forth everything was out and I was instructed to park in the open air car park across the road from the hotel.

We showered and changed and headed out into the brisk Sapporo evening to check out the snow festival. We had a brief pit stop for a few drinks at a bar in Susukino before joining the crowds enjoying the last few days of the Snow Festival for 2024.

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While the level of crafstmanship is still fantastic the vibe of the festival wasn't as exciting as I remember from 2016/2017 when there were far more bars/food stalls and more live events like moguls skiing and skiing and snowboard big air comps. Even my partner who had been seriously looking forward to this agreed it was likely a 1 and done thing for us.

After freezing our way up and down Odori Koen we wandered back towards Susukino to find an izakaya and stumbled upon Tokuchan. This was a delicious accident. There was a limited english menu but we also ordered things off the japanese menu. It specialises in KushiKatsu (literally deep fried sticks) which isn't really my jam. What is right up our alley though is fantastic Karaage and we both agreed this was the best we ever had!
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It was fresh, tender and moist and doused in a delicious garlic sauce. Honestly we still reminisce about it!
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They also had fantastically crisp gyoza...
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A fresh and simple cucumber with sesame seeds and sesame soy dipping sauce
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And as to be expected in Hokkaido fresh seafood.

It was also refreshing to be out of Niseko and paying 'normal prices' again. I believe a beer here was sub 600yen and i think we got out of dinner with 2 drinks each for well under $90... (They also have a dangerously cheap 2 hour all you can drink package for 1500yen).

We headed back to the hotel after a huge day to rest up.
 
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Day 8:

Woke up yet again to more snow! Don't you love it when the forecast is wrong.
Had to semi pack the ski bag this morning while leaving out enough gear for 1 last hurrah.

We left Hirafu around 8am and made our way towards Jozankei Onsen then on to Sapporo Kokusai for 1 last morning on snow! Made a quick pit stop at Lawson Kyogoku which is almost mandatory on any trip from Niseko towards Sapporo for me at this stage! The drive was spectacular with heavy snow passing in and out allowing for some last views of Mt Yotei and Shiribetsu before passing through the mountain pass of Nakayama Toge (a place so snowy the ski resort here only opens in Autumn and Spring) and going through Jozankei and past Sapporo Lake to arrive at Kokusai around 10am.
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We paid about $50 each for a 4 hour pass and did 5 or 6 gondola laps. It's quite a small resort but fairly well known in Hokkaido for massive snow and some substantial off piste areas. Didn't explore too much of these but did have a blast enjoying our last hours of Hokkaido powder.
Also past this sign every lap which felt like it was mocking me...
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I have never stopped in Jozankei Onsen before, only passed through, so decided a post ride onsen there was well deserved. It is one of the more famous onsen resorts in Hokkaido particularly given its proximity to Sapporo. We chose the Jozankei Manseikaku Hotel Milione as we knew it would have a public onsen available at the time we'd finish skiing. This is something to be aware of particularly when trying to use Hotel onsens as many have dedicated times for in-house guests and a daily cleaning schedule.
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Obviously it's near impossible to take photos inside however the above is pretty spot on. It was reasonably quiet in the middle of the day amongst a very large hotel and was probably the best onsen we have been to. Multiple baths of varying temperatures and mineral quality as well as a spectaular outdoor bath with a view over the valley. The amenities were also incredible including a shampoo 'bar' with about 13 different types of shampoo to try.

We left Jozankei and headed into Sapporo in the early afternoon to catch a Niseko friend who was there for the day. Ate yet another delicious bowl of ramen before saying farewell and checking into the ANA Holiday Inn Sapporo Susukino.
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For those of you who recall my last trip report in Miyazaki (and a night in Fukuoka) that trip was very IHG heavy so we used those points plus another $50 or so to redeem 2 nights here. Neglected to take photos but honestly nothing exciting about the hotel. Very standard mid range Japanese hotel, which can range from $75 a night to $250+ during the snow festival and summer.

What was exciting though was parking and unloading. The hotel has no dedicated drop off zone so we double parked in front of the hotels car stacker entrance (which we werent able to use) and had a very lovely japanese staff member attempt to help us in snow and ice unloading the vehicle while wearing high heels. This was honestly a bit of a nightmare with the amount of sutff we had, and considering the days ski wear wasn't neatly packed into the boardbag. After about 10 minutes of back and forth everything was out and I was instructed to park in the open air car park across the road from the hotel.

We showered and changed and headed out into the brisk Sapporo evening to check out the snow festival. We had a brief pit stop for a few drinks at a bar in Susukino before joining the crowds enjoying the last few days of the Snow Festival for 2024.

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While the level of crafstmanship is still fantastic the vibe of the festival wasn't as exciting as I remember from 2016/2017 when there were far more bars/food stalls and more live events like moguls skiing and skiing and snowboard big air comps. Even my partner who had been seriously looking forward to this agreed it was likely a 1 and done thing for us.

After freezing our way up and down Odori Koen we wandered back towards Susukino to find an izakaya and stumbled upon Tokuchan. This was a delicious accident. There was a limited english menu but we also ordered things off the japanese menu. It specialises in KushiKatsu (literally deep fried sticks) which isn't really my jam. What is right up our alley though is fantastic Karaage and we both agreed this was the best we ever had!
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It was fresh, tender and moist and doused in a delicious garlic sauce. Honestly we still reminisce about it!
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They also had fantastically crisp gyoza...
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A fresh and simple cucumber with sesame seeds and sesame soy dipping sauce
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And as to be expected in Hokkaido fresh seafood.

It was also refreshing to be out of Niseko and paying 'normal prices' again. I believe a beer here was sub 600yen and i think we got out of dinner with 2 drinks each for well under $90... (They also have a dangerously cheap 2 hour all you can drink package for 1500yen).

We headed back to the hotel after a huge day to rest up.

Ha, I've stayed at this place before....okay in 2016!
Not the best ryokan but certainly offer great value for money.
 
Day 9:

Unfortunately this was the start of the downhill as my partners energy levels faded and the respiratory illness that kicked both of us later in the trip started to rear its ugly head.

We made it out 11:30am after a bit of a lie in, re-packing the ski bag and sending via Yamato. (CC @Seat0B we had no issues, our staff were lovely, though a bit confused as to why we were sending a snowboard bag to Itami and not Kansai but that will be explained later).

We found a cute little cafe called Espresso D Works to try the famous souffle pancakes and for a caffeine hit. We also loaded up on vitamin C from a pharmac_ to try and keep the nasty bug at bay.
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The pancakes were light, fluffy and delicious. This restaurant is also in the new Stream Hotel which has dramatically changed the landscape of Tsukisamu-Dori, the main street of Susukino and where the iconic billboards of Sapporo sit. The new hotel is directly adjacent the Nikka Man and behind me in this photo.
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Following this we meandered around Susukino and Pole Town/Tanukikoji which are the main shopping areas outside of the JR station area. Found a cool rooftop garden next to Tanukikoji but the cafe and bar up here were obviously shut for winter.
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The weather started to turn and the better halfs energy declined so we headed back towards the hotel in driving snow which came in very quickly. Had a quick pit stop at Cocos curry for a hearty and spicy lunch to try and clear the head and then rested for most of the afternoon.

Given it was our last night in Hokkaido we mustered the energy to head out. Started at Electric Sheep, another bar I've frequented a few times on previous sojourns here with a cool coughtail menu and a killer view over Susukino.
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We then spent about 45 minutes trying to find an izakaya that wasn't full. Eventually we found one and had an acceptable dinner but not quite the quality of every other meal we'd had unfortunately.
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Called it a night pretty early due to dwindling energy levels and a travel day coming tomorrow.
 
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Day 10:

Awoke to a beautiful sunny morning for our last in Hokkaido. Packed the suitcases and headed down to check out. Formalities over we had to walk across the road the open air car park which was very icy and a bit of a hazard with carry on and checked suitcases.

Jumped in the Wish one last time, a very lovely morning drive from Sapporo to Chitose via an eneos to fill the steed and returned her with no issue to Car Rental Hokkaido. Their shuttle departed immediately and had us at Chitose Airport about 2 hours prior to our flight.
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The natural light flooding the terminal was quite beautiful. The crowds however were chaotic. But again OW Emerald came in clutch and we checked in with absolutely no line at the F Class check in. For reference there were probably 30 people in line at J Class and 300 in line at regular check in.

Not being too much of a fan of the limited options in the lounge or airside at CTS domestic we expored the pre-security shopping precinct and the 2 quasi museums by JAL and ANA at either end of the upper level. We didn't quite have enough time for the onsen or cinema here but there is plenty to keep everyone occupied!

We passed through F class security with no line around 15 minutes before boarding and made our way to the gate. As usual in Japan boarding was on time and efficient. Meanwhile a cool plane pulled up next to us.
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It was a pretty smooth flight and having only ever landed into Kansai before it was really coool flying over the city into Itami.
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On time arrival and a brisk baggage collection meant we were in line for the next bus towards Namba within 20 minutes of landing, and fortunately so as some people from our plane were stuck at the back and missed the bus (which was completely full even with every foldable aisle seat taken). The journey to Namba took about 25 minutes and from here we grabbed a taxi to the first of our proper 5 star hotels for the trip and one we were very excited about!
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We were greeted by a very helpful staff member and our bags taken before we were shown to the lift and instructed to head to the 40th floor. I don't think I mentioned what hotel this was yet however those with a keen eye should be able to work it out from the below photo when exiting the lift to the lobby.
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I booked this primarily using my old mans Hilton Honors points which he gathered when he was a gold member from the velocity status match and we had taken a family few trips to Hawaii. Coincidentally I had pulled the trigger on the HHonors Diamond/Velocity Plat status match especially for this trip. Getting the status match to be pushed through before this stay was an absolute nightmare despite requesting it 5 weeks before hand. It eventually came through 2 days before we arrived.

We checked in and my new status was acknowledged as well as a 1 category upgrade from a base room to a premium view room. All the rooms here are huge but the view back towards the city was very appreciated.
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I decided to try out the pool which was on the 38th floor along with the male and female baths, fitness centre and change rooms.
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The hallways to these areas were stunning. The gym was great, large and well equipped and rarely busy. The pool was ok... it has a view of the opposite tower rather than the city which takes away from the awe of being on the 38th floor, and you have to wear bathing caps every time you enter which was something new to me.

We made quick pit stop in the executive lounge for a pre-dinner drink. The lounge was busy and had a fantastic view. The food was quite good but fairly limited and the drinks were as to be expected - a good selection of beers and spirits but the wines were fairly ordinary, especially the sparkling which was around 700yen a bottle... Not exactly high end for a hotel that regularly charges $1000+ per night for a base room.

We had no real plans so we jumped on a train to head 1 stop north to Namba where we did some shopping and grabbed some burgers in a western restaurant in the Lucua mall. After this we returned the Conrad for some shut eye before a planned day trip to Nara the following morning.
 

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Day 11: (Part 1)

The better half awoke feeling 70% today so we decided to chance it and head off on the first of our planned big day trips. Headed up to breakfast at Atmos (included as diamond benefit) which is the hotels breakfast buffet and more casual restaurant. Breakfast was amazing with a huge buffet and a substantial al a carte menu with 0 upcharge for diamonds.

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The kids Conrad Cafe was also super kawaii!

Atmos is a stunning restaurant and was among the best breakfast buffets I've ever had. The other 2 restaurants on the 40th floor we did not try as they were expensive high end steak and Japanese restaurants which would've run us a few hundred dollars a head. Not really our vibe in Japan as we prefer to keep it modest on dinners (most of the time).

After breakfast we went downstairs to the catch the subway to Namba and change to the train line to Nara. Also got to see a Hinotori set as we waited for the limited express to Nara. @rbjhan was this amongst your reviewed trains?.
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The trip to Nara took a little over an hour. Arriving in Nara was our first realisation that the tourists were back in Japan in a big way. Higashimuki, the main shopping street adjacent the station, was packed, as was Kintetsu Nara station itself.

We started meandering up towards the Deer park and through the crowds. Nara is a fun place as long as your not a d***head and aware that deer are wild animals... Who are also protected under enshrined law in Japan as sacred beings. Unfortunately not everyone is able to be civil and there was certainly some unsavoury moments seen from various large tour groups.

Nonetheless we had a great time, Bought some crackers for the deer, fed them, patted a couple and wandered the streets in our own little world.

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This was clearly where the party was!
Part 2 to follow due to 10 image limit.
 
Day 11: (Part 1)

The better half awoke feeling 70% today so we decided to chance it and head off on the first of our planned big day trips. Headed up to breakfast at Atmos (included as diamond benefit) which is the hotels breakfast buffet and more casual restaurant. Breakfast was amazing with a huge buffet and a substantial al a carte menu with 0 upcharge for diamonds.

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The kids Conrad Cafe was also super kawaii!

Atmos is a stunning restaurant and was among the best breakfast buffets I've ever had. The other 2 restaurants on the 40th floor we did not try as they were expensive high end steak and Japanese restaurants which would've run us a few hundred dollars a head. Not really our vibe in Japan as we prefer to keep it modest on dinners (most of the time).

After breakfast we went downstairs to the catch the subway to Namba and change to the train line to Nara. Also got to see a Hinotori set as we waited for the limited express to Nara. @rbjhan was this amongst your reviewed trains?.
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The trip to Nara took a little over an hour. Arriving in Nara was our first realisation that the tourists were back in Japan in a big way. Higashimuki, the main shopping street adjacent the station, was packed, as was Kintetsu Nara station itself.

We started meandering up towards the Deer park and through the crowds. Nara is a fun place as long as your not a d***head and aware that deer are wild animals... Who are also protected under enshrined law in Japan as sacred beings. Unfortunately not everyone is able to be civil and there was certainly some unsavoury moments seen from various large tour groups.

Nonetheless we had a great time, Bought some crackers for the deer, fed them, patted a couple and wandered the streets in our own little world.

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This was clearly where the party was!
Part 2 to follow due to 10 image limit.

Ha, no actually. Hinotori wanted solo passengers to pay for two person! I decided against it out of principal 😡

Did you take that one or not? I'm slightly unsure....
 
Day 10:

Awoke to a beautiful sunny morning for our last in Hokkaido. Packed the suitcases and headed down to check out. Formalities over we had to walk across the road the open air car park which was very icy and a bit of a hazard with carry on and checked suitcases.

Jumped in the Wish one last time, a very lovely morning drive from Sapporo to Chitose via an eneos to fill the steed and returned her with no issue to Car Rental Hokkaido. Their shuttle departed immediately and had us at Chitose Airport about 2 hours prior to our flight.
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The natural light flooding the terminal was quite beautiful. The crowds however were chaotic. But again OW Emerald came in clutch and we checked in with absolutely no line at the F Class check in. For reference there were probably 30 people in line at J Class and 300 in line at regular check in.

Not being too much of a fan of the limited options in the lounge or airside at CTS domestic we expored the pre-security shopping precinct and the 2 quasi museums by JAL and ANA at either end of the upper level. We didn't quite have enough time for the onsen or cinema here but there is plenty to keep everyone occupied!

We passed through F class security with no line around 15 minutes before boarding and made our way to the gate. As usual in Japan boarding was on time and efficient. Meanwhile a cool plane pulled up next to us.
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It was a pretty smooth flight and having only ever landed into Kansai before it was really coool flying over the city into Itami.
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On time arrival and a brisk baggage collection meant we were in line for the next bus towards Namba within 20 minutes of landing, and fortunately so as some people from our plane were stuck at the back and missed the bus (which was completely full even with every foldable aisle seat taken). The journey to Namba took about 25 minutes and from here we grabbed a taxi to the first of our proper 5 star hotels for the trip and one we were very excited about!
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We were greeted by a very helpful staff member and our bags taken before we were shown to the lift and instructed to head to the 40th floor. I don't think I mentioned what hotel this was yet however those with a keen eye should be able to work it out from the below photo when exiting the lift to the lobby.
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I booked this primarily using my old mans Hilton Honors points which he gathered when he was a gold member from the velocity status match and we had taken a family few trips to Hawaii. Coincidentally I had pulled the trigger on the HHonors Diamond/Velocity Plat status match especially for this trip. Getting the status match to be pushed through before this stay was an absolute nightmare despite requesting it 5 weeks before hand. It eventually came through 2 days before we arrived.

We checked in and my new status was acknowledged as well as a 1 category upgrade from a base room to a premium view room. All the rooms here are huge but the view back towards the city was very appreciated.
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I decided to try out the pool which was on the 38th floor along with the male and female baths, fitness centre and change rooms.
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The hallways to these areas were stunning. The gym was great, large and well equipped and rarely busy. The pool was ok... it has a view of the opposite tower rather than the city which takes away from the awe of being on the 38th floor, and you have to wear bathing caps every time you enter which was something new to me.

We made quick pit stop in the executive lounge for a pre-dinner drink. The lounge was busy and had a fantastic view. The food was quite good but fairly limited and the drinks were as to be expected - a good selection of beers and spirits but the wines were fairly ordinary, especially the sparkling which was around 700yen a bottle... Not exactly high end for a hotel that regularly charges $1000+ per night for a base room.

We had no real plans so we jumped on a train to head 1 stop north to Namba where we did some shopping and grabbed some burgers in a western restaurant in the Lucua mall. After this we returned the Conrad for some shut eye before a planned day trip to Nara the following morning.

Ah I think you missed a trick here. I booked a premium view room and got upgraded to a corner room, huge difference...

 
Day 11: (Part 2)

After making our way through the hordes of deer and people we approaced the gates for Todai-Ji, a 1300 year old Buddhist temple and probably the most visited attraction in Nara. The main building (which has been rebuilt a few times) was formerly the largest wooden building in the world and holds an awe inspring buddha within.
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(around this time a very rude man who was shouting on loudspeaker on the phone coughed pretty much directly into my fiances mouth so she pulled out a mask here despite being outdoors. We don't think this event aided her recovery at all)

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The Buddha within is 15 mtrs tall and imposing when inside.

After escaping the grounds of Todai-ji we headed back towards the station and Higashimuki. We wandered through the whole covered section, about 500 mtrs, trying to find somewhere to eat. We passed Nakatanidou Mochi Shop, the famous store where they hand beat the Mochi in an elaborate demonstration. Unfortunately we just missed the 'performance' and the line for Mochi was utterly ridiculous, probably about 300 people deep with dedicated traffic controllers for people and cars to manage it!

We finally found a little fusion restaurant called Yamato Modern on Sanjo Dori. It was a mix of tapas and izakaya which definitely hit the spot after 20 000 odd steps already!
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Sanjo Dori was a great way to get away from the somewhat claustrophobic feeling of Higashimuki.

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After this late lucnh we returned to Kitetsu Nara station, caught the same limited express train back towards Namba and caught a beautiful sunset over the city.

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I'm now realising this was a particularly big day and will need a part 3!
 
Ha, no actually. Hinotori wanted solo passengers to pay for two person! I decided against it out of principal 😡

Did you take that one or not? I'm slightly unsure....

No we took the regular limited express to Nara, not the Hintotori. Though it is a stunning train!

Ah I think you missed a trick here. I booked a premium view room and got upgraded to a corner room, huge difference...


Unfortunately we didn't have much of a choice as booking with the bare minimum points put us into the most basic room. That being said I was a little dissapointed with only a 1 category upgrade when there were better rooms available, however this is also a hotel where you can't really go wrong with any room so the stay was no worse because of this!
 
No we took the regular limited express to Nara, not the Hintotori. Though it is a stunning train!



Unfortunately we didn't have much of a choice as booking with the bare minimum points put us into the most basic room. That being said I was a little dissapointed with only a 1 category upgrade when there were better rooms available, however this is also a hotel where you can't really go wrong with any room so the stay was no worse because of this!

Ah I see, I booked with cash so that's not a problem.
In Japan at least I find it's strictly one category upgrade, you know, them and rules...🤣
 
No we took the regular limited express to Nara, not the Hintotori. Though it is a stunning train!



Unfortunately we didn't have much of a choice as booking with the bare minimum points put us into the most basic room. That being said I was a little dissapointed with only a 1 category upgrade when there were better rooms available, however this is also a hotel where you can't really go wrong with any room so the stay was no worse because of this!

Yes Kintetsu is quite good with their trains...Shimakaze was a most enjoyable ride although since my last trip JR Kyushu is putting everyone else to shame!
 
I'm not a fan of the deers and people in Todaiji tbh... I take it you didn't see adults squeeze through the hole in one of the columns?

But Nigatsudo was a whole other world at the back!
 
I'm not a fan of the deers and people in Todaiji tbh... I take it you didn't see adults squeeze through the hole in one of the columns?

But Nigatsudo was a whole other world at the back!
I don't mind it but the crowds get to me certainly. And no, only small children fitting through that gap! Which also had a line of about 30 families waiting...
 
I don't mind it but the crowds get to me certainly. And no, only small children fitting through that gap! Which also had a line of about 30 families waiting...

Kids I'm okay with. But I saw a women with long hair coming out of it and holy sxx_ that reminded me of Ring (Japanese horror movie), when the ghost came out of the tv....

This one!
 
Day 11: (Part 3)

After arriving at Namba we decided to extend the day out into the evening. We emerged just to the south of Dotonbori vehicle bridge and made our way to the more famous footbridge. It was fairly busy but nothing we weren't alrerady used to after the day in Nara
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The fiance was very keen to try out a gyoza place she had seen all over tiktok with allegedly crispy delicious gyoza and lots of variations. It was a bit of a bust though with foreign workers throughout including one visibly ill and coughing into the gyoza he was folding with no mask. It's called Osaka Ohsho and I would highly recommend giving it a miss!
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We ate here and bailed pretty quickly. I had the fancies for Takoyaki so we walked a little further east to where the lines for each shop thinned out and I had some delicious balls.

Following this we took a meander up Shinsaibashi-suji and checked out some of the vintage stored before meandering across to Amemura for some clothes shopping. Grabbed some late night snacks from 7/11 and jumped on the train back to the hotel to end the day.
 
Can't say exactly why but I hate the Namba/Shinsaibashi area.
Nowadays if I'm going to Osaka only go to Umeda...or more often than not I avoid it altogether!
 
Day 12:
The fiance was not getting any better and as such the planned trip to Kyoto was scrapped. Unfortunate as she was desperate to visit but it would've been a 12+hour adventure and we weren't feeling up to that.

We enjoyed another great breakfast and I got a workout in before we pondered what to do. I had never actually been to Osaka castle so we decided on heading there. We caught the train from Watanabebashi under the hotel to Tenmabashi and walked about 1km around the castle to enter its grounds. It was another busy day and being a reconstructed castle with large lines and a fee to enter we just wandered around the grounds and checked out the stores within Miraiza.
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After this we headed back to Tenmabashi where I had a hankering for Okonomiyaki. We found a nice grill restaurant above the station and shared some with a serve of Yakisoba.

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It absolutely hit the spot! However I ate most of what was above and somewhat put myself in a food coma while my partner had a craving for maccas so we headed to grab a cheeseburger by the river before heading back towards Amemura.
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We did a little more shopping in the afternoon sunlight before returning to the hotel for a shower and drink while deciding what to do for dinner.

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After a freshen up and a couple of beers we caught the train back to Hommachi and Shinsaibashi-Suji from the north to check out the shops at that end. We walked just about all the way down to Dotonbori before finding a cool bar to grab a few coughtails at Osaka coughtail Library Akashic Records. Handful of a name but a fun flair bar with unique workers and coughtails. We took plety of videos but no photos.

After this we wandered back towards amemura to find an Izakaya for dinner on our last proper night in Japan. We settled on Manmaru, another Izakaya that specialises in kushikatsu. I decided to get some this time and while I can appreciate it the flavour of the typical sauce served with Kushikatsu just isn't for me and somewhat ruins the dish. That aside the food was wonderful and cheap, as were the drinks!

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We headed back via subway and called it a night with a travel day ahead of us, trying to take advantage of our last night in a bed before Singapore (where just about everything went wrong).
 

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