Kookaburra's Kakadu & Other Places

[kookaburra75]

Each January, Mrs K and I choose somewhere to be in July, other than Canberra - we need to be somewhere warm. Last year was Hamilton Island, and this year we decided on the Top End. I had worked up there in the 80's, but Mrs K had never been.

Knowing getting accom in the Dry can be difficult, we booked well in advance, and also to make sure I could get bus class seats on points. After our trip to Singapore for Mrs K's birthday last year, in J as a first for her, all travel from now on has to be in J. Thankfully I was successful on both counts. Just as well Mrs K said, she would feel slightly guilty if she was in J while I was down the back - but that was a sacrifice i would have to make, and her feeling of guilt would pass quickly.

To make the most of the experience we also booked on a four day camping tour into Kakadu and Katherine with Intrepid Tours. This too would be a first for Mrs K, camping. As they advertised we would be staying in established campsites, with beds that was deemed to be ok. Having spent years in swags in the bush, I was up for it. But I've been told certain standards had to be met. Thankfully all was ok.

Our original itinerary was arrive in Darwin on Friday, look around Darwin for a few days, head off on the tour on Thurs until Sun, and then fly out on Monday. Then good friends told us they were getting married on the Sat. Fortunately we were able to move the tour forward to leave in the Sat and return on Tues, and get J seats on Thurs. Plus, as a bonus, as Intrepid had dropped the price of the tour they refunded us the difference in what we had paid and the new price. We've asked our friends to do the same next year and see if we can make more money - maybe not get married again, just a recommitment ceremony would be fine.

So Day 1 of our break arrived. We climbed aboard the 6.15am out of Canberra up to Brisbane and then onto the Darwin flight. As we were on holidays, we asked for and were served sparkling wine to satisfy our tradition of holiday bubbles. It was a good flight and service, and Mrs K enjoyed herself. Arriving in Brisbane we started to thaw out, and by Darwin we were ready for the warm weather.

I'll put details of our tour and start organising our photos in the next post, as I took a ton of them and I have to get them in order.

Currently we are winging our way back home, just passing over Alice Springs - using the onboard wifi. More to come.

 

[kookaburra75]

It's taking a bit longer than I thought to sort through the photo's - so I'll start with a map and description of where we went on the tour.

We were picked up in Darwin from the H Hotel on Smith Street by our Tour Guide Emmett. The bus was full, with 21 people which included a family group of 7 from the US, and remainder a collection of tourists from Netherlands, Ireland, India and UK - and us and another Aussie. Each day involved around 4 hours of travel, with stops every hour or so, to stretch the legs, go see something or go for a swim.

Day 1 took us from Darwin, down the Stuart Highway to Litchfield National Park. We had a swim at Buley Rockhole, and then onto Wangi Falls for lunch, and another swim. After that, we headed across to the Stuart Highway and back up to the Arnhem Highway and of towards Kakadu. We turned off after the Mary River and up to our campsite for the first night, at the Point Stuart Wilderness Lodge. They had tents set up, with floors, made up beds and a big camp kitchen.

Day 2 was an early start (5.30am for brekkie), and we were off to the Mary River for a cruise along the river and taking in the quiet, birdlife and crocs - we only saw 12 which was considered a quiet morning. We then got back onto the highway and headed east to Jabiru, and up to Ubirr, where we had lunch. We then went on a tour of the rock art sites, and took in the view of the area from the top of Ubirr Rock. After a break we headed back into Jabiru, where several of us took an hour long flight over Kakadu. Then back in the bus down to our next night's stop at Cooinda Lodge.

Day 3 was a more leisurely start at 7am, and we in the bus for a drive down to Gunlom Falls along the Kakadu Highway, where we had lunch and then a swim in the bottom pool. Emmett took a number of people up to the top of the falls where there are more rock pools, but Mrs K's knees were playing up and we stuck to the bottom pool, along with a few other people from the tour. I did the first lap of the pool as croc bait, to show them it was safe. We then got back on the bus and down the road and into Pine Creek, for an ice cream and a beer. After that stop we drove into Katherine and stocked up on personal supplies for the fridge. We then headed out town towards the gorge to our camp for the night.

Day 4 was another early start, so we could make the dawn cruise along Katherine Gorge, which was worth it. We then got back on the bus and headed back up the Stuart Highway to Edith Falls, for lunch and another swim. Then, back on the bus for the drive up to Adelaide River for more ice creams, and then the final leg back into Darwin, where we arrived back at our hotel at 7pm.

A big four days, but well worth it for the country side we went through, the sites we saw and the people we met on the tour.

 

[RB]

Looking forward to seeing your photos. Edith Falls is a great spot

 

[kermatu]

In my early years in Canberra I never felt the need to escape in winter. Nowadays... I’m with you 100 per cent.

Looking forward to your report.

 

[kookaburra75]

Day 0 of the trip. We had arrived into Darwin on Friday, with the tour departing early on Saturday morning. Given we could watch the sunset over the harbour, we headed over to Cullen Bay to watch the sunset and have a meal. Seafood on Cullen had good reviews, so we booked there. The view was great, the food not so much. If you want a buffet with some fresh seafood, and battered and cooked seafood, plus steaks and other cooked dishes such as duck and pork, it's ok. It would have been better to bring our own food and drinks, and sit on the lawn on the edge of the bay and watch the sunset - like a lot of the locals seem to do.

The sunset itself was spectacular, but I only had my phone so the pictures don't do it any justice.

Saturday kicked off early, but at least it was 22 deg compared to -5 deg in Canberra, so that was a good start at least. We waited out the front and were picked up a bit late but nothing to worry about. Emmett, our guide from Intrepid Travel pulled up, ticked us off the list and off we went. After a few more stops to pick up other people for the tour we headed of down the highway to Litchfield National Park.

Our first stop was at the Magnetic Termite mounds, as well as the Cathedral Termite mounds. I had seen the latter over the years working in the Kimberley, but not the Magnetic mounds, it was a bit eerie looking across the area with what looked like a cemetery.


After that stop we headed further down the highway to Litchfield National Park, and the chance to stop and swim in the Buley Rockholes - and then onto Wangi Falls for lunch and another swim..


After that break, we headed back up the Stuart Highway and onto the Arnhem Highway, on our way to our first night's stop on the Mary River. We stopped briefly at the Corroboree Inn, for supplies.

So ended Day 1. A good start to the trip, and lots more fun and sights to come.

 

[kookaburra75]

Day 2 - a long day.

It started with breakfast at 5.30am, as we had a dawn cruise on the Mary River. We packed our meagre belongings (we were limited to 10kg luggage each for the tour), enjoying (not what Mrs K said exactly) our early start with the rest of our intrepid campers and headed down to the Mary River for our tour. Chiso, our guide, took us through a history of the area including the bird life and croc's. Apparently by his standards we had a quiet morning, only spotting 12 crocs, when the record was 32.

After our tour on the river we climbed on our trusty bus and onto our next stop at Ubirr, for the rock art sites. We had lunch before walking through the sites and the explanations provided by our guide Emmett. I took some photos, but really the only way to experience it, is to be there and see it for yourself. Many years ago working in the Kimberley and Central Australia I was shown some special places by the locals - but I think Emmett summed it up well, when he said he had really only be told the 'fairy tale' version of the stories behind the art, and not the full spiritual significance. The times I remembered the best in the past was sitting on the rocks, looking out across the countryside and thinking that I was looking at the same scenes the people who painted the work some 300 - 8000 years ago were looking at. I know people make comparisons of Australian history to European history based on buildings etc, but sometimes there are different ways to measure it.

Then after our stop at Ubirr, we headed back to Jabiru. As an extra, some of selected to take the on hour flight over Kakadu, and we weren't disappointed. The pilot took us up the East Alligator river system, as well as the Kakadu escarpment and the countryside around it.

After our flight, we caught up with the rest of the group. As our flight had been delayed we felt a bit guilty about holding up the rest of the tour. But then we found Emmett had taken them to the Mecure Crocodile Hotel at Jabiru and they had to put up with the air-conditioning, the pool, bar and wifi. That feeling passed quickly. We then headed off to our next stop at Cooinda Lodge and settled in for the night. It was made a bit easier by the fact there was a couple of dozen cans of cider and beer in the fridge in the camp kitchen, with a note "free drinks".

 

[LadyC]

Nice TR so far. A part of the world I have yet to visit but definitely on the list.

 

[Straubs]

Will keep watching your TR with interest. I firmly believe most Aussies don't know how beautiful Kakadu is. I hope you had a ball.

 

[kookaburra75]

Day 3
After spending a relaxing night at the Cooinda Lodge, we go out on the road, but thankfully with a 'late' start - 7am. Our day would involve heading south through Kakadu and getting into Katherine in the late afternoon. One thing we enjoy is driving through the different country and watching the scene change, with the geology, flora and fauna. To a lot of people I know that they can't see much in the way of changes, but after years driving long distances through the Pilbara, Kimberley and Central Australia I got to appreciate the changes in the vegetation and wildlife.

Our first stop was Gunlom Falls. While half the group climbed to the top of the falls to go for a swim in the top rock pools, Mrs K and I headed for the pool at the bottom. A much easier walk and a nice sandy beach. However, I got to do croc-bait duties again and do a lap of the pool to show it was safe.


We had lunch at Gunlom Falls, a nice break and then back on the bus for the leg into Pine Creek. After a ice cream at the shop and a beer at the pub, we then got back on our bus to our next stop in Katherine for essential supplies and onto our campsite for the night.

The camp (and I've forgotten the lady's name who ran it) was fantastic. Dinner was prepared for us, and it was in a great location near the Katherine Gorge where we had a full view of the night sky, and the Milky Way in its full glory.

We sat up late talking with the others in our group, and got prepared for another early start.

 

[ellen10]

Looks like a great trip.
I am enjoying you report and photos.

 

[JohnM]

I like and hear what you say about long drives and watching the country change. I’m the same. It always puzzles me that many people often see the drive between places as monotonous, and sleep or read a book.

 

[Major]

Something a bit different for the Top End

 

[kookaburra75]

Day 4 was another early start (5.30am for breakfast) as we were going on the dawn tour on the Katherine Gorge. I had been to the Gorge 30 years before, and while I didn't expect the Gorge to change I was interested in how the tourist experience had evolved.

Setting off before the sun had risen meant it was cool, but the water still and the sides of the Gorge reflected in the water. The guide spoke about the history of the area, and way the local people, the Jarwon are involved in the management, as well as the connection of the Jarwon people culture is linked to different parts of the Gorge. It was good to see that connection being made, as aboriginal culture and their stories are intimately tied to the land - and I feel you get a better understanding when you're in the actual place.

The Gorge and the sunrise didn't disappoint. It was a peaceful cruise up the first gorge, and we got off and walked across to the second gorge and boarded our next boat to sail up the gorge. Being a lot narrower, you got closer to the rock faces and able to see a lot more detail of the plant and bird life. We only saw one small fresh water croc on the trip, and as the guide pointed out, there are a number of sandy beaches that are protected, as the crocs lay their eggs there. The freshies don't hang around after they lay their eggs, and they can be trampled easily.

The amazing thing about the Katherine Gorge is that during the wet season the river level can rise by up to 5m. When that happens you can sail right up the length of the gorge, but in a 400hp jet boat as the current is too fast for the cruise boats. They get them out of the water when the river level gets high enough to get them over the rock bars. At the end of the wet, before the river level drops again, they tow them back into position using the jet boat. We thought that we'd like to come back at the end of the wet to see that.

After that relaxing start to the day, we climbed back onboard our trusty bus and headed off to our next stop.

 

[Boca68]

Great TR. A beautiful part of the world.

Not so sure about the croc bait swims though. I was told once, first person stirs their interest, its the second that's more likely on the menu. Unless the first was too slow

 

[kookaburra75]

Great TR. A beautiful part of the world.

Not so sure about the croc bait swims though. I was told once, first person stirs their interest, its the second that's more likely on the menu. Unless the first was too slow

That's the usual practice - but I wasn't telling the others on the tour that. It made me seem a bit tougher though
[EDIT] I wasn't going to mention it, but years ago when I was working in the Kimberleys, when we went to waterholes on the rivers, someone would throw a couple of tennis balls in the water and let the dogs chase them, have a swim and bring them back (I didn't own a dog then). If they got back we knew it was safe for a swim. Mind you, some of the older dogs were really smart and would hide when we pulled up at the river

 

[Denali]

We stayed at the cabins a few mins walk from the gorge boat ramps. Demountable buildings with wallabies on your doorstep but much better than the 30min drive to/from Katherine for a dawn or dinner boat trip.

Beautiful photos.

 

[kookaburra75]

We stayed at the cabins a few mins walk from the gorge boat ramps. Demountable buildings with wallabies on your doorstep but much better than the 30min drive to/from Katherine for a dawn or dinner boat trip.

Beautiful photos.

Wait for my next set of photos - it has baby wallabies in it...

 

[kookaburra75]

After the early start and the cruise up the Katherine Gorge we boarded our bus and stopped at Top Didj, for their Aboriginal Cultural Experience. It's in a lovely setting on the Gorge Road, with their art gallery featuring local artists and they have a band of wallabies. The owners Alex and Petrena foster orphaned wallaby joeys, and they roam around the place. As they get older they go back into the bush, but turn up during the day when there are visitors to get some tidbits - for us that was slices of sweet potato. They also had a few younger ones who were still in the cloth bags to replicate the pouches, and we all had a cuddle. The family from the US were rapt, as they could get up close.

The Cultural Experience was really, really good. We had Manuel, who just spoke about his life It wasn't preachy or about other issues, it was just about his life, about his parents and how they met and where the lived to the south east of Katherine, how he saw his first white person when he was six, being brought in off the land and put into a settlement near Katherine, his experience with grog and getting off it, and now he is just happy with life - just his life, which was good, as I think people can relate to that better. Manuel explained the different language groups and the skin system. He is Dalabon, but his mother was Mangarayi, and being moved to Katherine they were on Jarwoyn land - but everyone gets on. He also explained there are eight skins in his mother's line, but he as Godjok skin can only marry two of those skins. There was also our attempts at fire lighting and spear throwing, which were fun - and of course, Manuel did it first time.

After our beak at Top Didj we climbed back into our trusty bus and set out for our lunch stop at Edith Falls. Again some of the group went for a walk to the top pools, while we stayed at the bottom pool. There were enough people in the water when we got there, so MrsK said I didn't have to do my croc-bait swim.

One thing we noticed at all of the waterholes was foam floats anchored around the edges. We asked the rangers about that, and they are used to see if there are any salt-water crocs around. They coat the floats with fish oil, so if there is a saltie they smell the oil and have a nibble on the float. The rangers check the floats for teeth marks. A good low tech way of monitoring.

It was very busy at Edith Falls, as it's close to the highway and easy to get to. The grey nomads were out in full force, and the campground was full.

After a swim and a rest, we got on board to start the run back to Darwin. We stopped at Adelaide River to stretch our legs and have an ice cream, before the final leg into Darwin. We got dropped of around 7pm, had a quick bite to eat in the hotel and then an early night.

 

[kermatu]

Great TR.

 

[Straubs]

Making me want to go back to NT. I have happy memories of he drive east to Nhulunbuy. I loved Mataranka Falls too.