Koyo Chasing in Tohoku Japan (#9) and some last minute shenanigans

[rbjhan]

Yumoto Onsen, located in the far end of OkuNikko. The autumn colours reached peak first here due to high elevations.
Lake Yunoko's shoreline was very pretty despite the weather.

 

[rbjhan]

My original plan was to go hiking in Senjogahara that afternoon, since rain was forecasted the next day. Unfortunately losing one hour on the bus kinda killed it. So I did a loop of Lake Yunoko instead. (Normally you can walk from Yudaki Falls all the way to Senjogahara, but the path was closed due to typhoon damage.)

Reached the top of Yudaki Falls first.


Then went down to the bottom.


Shop near the viewing platform. Oh look, food, why not?!

 

[rbjhan]

Kyukamura Nikko Yumoto
Not too many options for a solo traveller in Yumoto onsen sadly. This one was an old resort, popular with Japanese senior citizens as far as I can see
My room was a western style twin room (only option available for single occupancy).


Lake Yunoko in the distance.


Dinner was a set meal plus a mini buffet (vegies and carbs only). Certainly was not the best but okay for the price.


What's really good here, is the onsen of course. Yumoto, 湯元, literally means "origin of hot water"! This little town is full of onsen ryokans and nothing much else. Warning, strong sulfur odour...

Picture from hotel website.


End of Day 2.

 

[rbjhan]

Day 3
Weather forecast was accurate! Rained the whole day, at times quite heavily
After a morning soak and breakfast, I decided to brave the weather and had a little walk around town.

The area next to Onsenji is a marsh, that's where the hot spring water comes up from ground. It not only supply all the ryokans in Yumoto, even the ones near Lake Chuzenji use the water from here.




Very tricky to hold an umbrella and operate a camera at the same time! So I went back to hotel around 9am and stayed till check out.




Despite the weather, I really like Yumoto Onsen. Not a hint of the madness down below near Toshogu, also right next to Lake Yunoko, not to mention the onsen!

 

[rbjhan]

The rain was getting heavy. So I took a bus to Lake Chuzenji and drop my bag off at Kai Nikko.
This being Japan, nobody is checking in before 3pm of course.

Had lunch at a restaurant nearby. By the way, you can totally feel the presence of soba once out of Kansai (best I've had was in Matsumoto). Down south Udon is more popular. Make sense since buckwheat prefer cooler weather I guess...


Bus to Ryuzu waterfall as suggested by Kai Nikko staff, great autumn colours here!


Not wanting to give up on Senjogahara entirely, I took the bus to the observation platform in Sanbonmatsu.




Hiking in Senjogahara was the main reason I wanted to visit OkuNikko...Typhoon damage, rain, traffic....I didn't get to do it another trip perhaps?

The area around Lake Chuzenji was covered in thick mist, I went to Kegon Falls but visibility was poor. Took a few pictures but not worth posting I'm afraid...

 

[rbjhan]

Kai Nikko
Part of Hoshino Resorts. I've stayed at Hoshinoya in Kyoto, Tokyo & Karuizawa. Not very happy with them so far...Kai Nikko would be the last test methinks...

Entrance


This is where you check in. But they didn't serve matcha and wagashi?! Only a sweet sake drink, minus one point.


I booked a lake view room.


Even in this weather it was beautiful.

 

[rbjhan]

It was probably 10 degrees outside at 4pm when I got to Kai Nikko.
Quickly ran to the onsen...

Picture from hotel website.


Relaxation area


And who wouldn't want one of these after the soak?


Onsen facilities were very nice, but I do feel the water was not as good as Yumoto though...

 

[rbjhan]

Here comes the critical part, the dinner!
Don't know about others but I paid 45K Yen for a ryokan I expect a good dinner and breakfast.
Slightly off topic, during check in I heard the (foreign) couple sitting next to me was staying 4 nights, I don't think they realise the difference between an onsen ryokan and a hotel...

Anyways, this was the dinner menu:

One look at it and my heart sank grilled salmon? seriously?!
So yeah, the camera never came out. Pictures all by phone.
Meh


This was the offending salmon. It tasted about as much as it looked.


This was breakfast. My conclusion was they make a healthy profit by cutting cost...


So I think this would be my last stay with Hoshino Resorts. Rooms are beautiful, well designed. But their service I found not matching the price tag. There are other ryokans in Japan offering much better value - one is coming up next!

 

[rbjhan]

Day 4
Woke up and finally all sunny, just when I had to leave

Seriously tempting to go to Senjogahara, but after studying bus timetable, local train timetable, also Shinkansen timetable for quite some time, I gave up.
Basically I need to be at Shiroishi Zao station at about 3pm for the ryokan shuttle bus, only Yamabiko stops at Shiroishi Zao and only once per hour! Then work backwards, one hour local train from Nikko to Utsunomiya, one hour bus from Lake Chuzenji to Nikko....I need to leave at 11 am the lastest. The hike takes about 2 hours plus whatever bus connections...too had.

So rather than stressing myself out with all the tight connections, I took it easy in Kai Nikko, went for another soak after breakfast, then walked around Lake Chuzenji.


Mount Nantai


Kai Nikko


Kegon Falls

 

[rbjhan]

Unfortunately I made a mistake with the calculations earlier, would not make the Yamabiko Shinkasen arriving 2:49pm at Shiroishi Zao.
When I realised the problem it was already too late!
Asked Kai Nikko staff to call the next ryokan, they advised me to take a taxi apparently only one shuttle bus per day, bah.

That did leave me some extra time in Utsunomiya to try the famous local dish, Gyoza. (no idea what the green drink was, ordered from an all Japanese menu, basically just pointed at something, not too bad as it turned out)

 

[rbjhan]

Ichijoh Ryokan 時音の宿　湯主一條
This was by far my favourite stay of this trip. Probably top 3 in all my Japan trips

When the taxi pulled over, 3 people came up, one took my bag, two others greeted me and from that moment onwards I kinda just followed them around...
Matcha and wagashi was served


Then I was shown to my room and the lady explained everything.
BTW, I was upgraded from a Japanese tatami room to this. Upgrades in a ryokan are very rare, not sure if it had anything to do with me missing the shuttle bus...


Loved the kotatsu!

 

[rbjhan]

The old 4 story wooden building was designated as an important cultural asset of Japan.
It is no longer used as guest rooms, rather only as private dining rooms nowadays.


My dining room, set up was beautiful.




Sendai beef


Soup was delicious!

Best meal I've ever had in a ryokan without doubt.

 

[rbjhan]

Apparently the medicated bath is 600 years old!


There's another public bath on level 3.
Picture from hotel website.

 

[rbjhan]

Breakfast


Chopstick holder is so cute!




I was planning to go outside and walk around town, but the kotatsu was dangerously addictive! Ended up going nowhere


After the not so satisfying 2 days in OkuNikko, happy bunny again and off to Sendai.

 

[drron]

Those meals really look good.

 

[rbjhan]

Those meals really look good.

I always think ryokan meals cannot compete with good restaurants, but this one is truly up there.

 

[rbjhan]

Apart from the meals, what stood out here was the service. Some might find it slightly over the top, but it was the Japanese way. I was escorted to my private dining room for dinner and breakfast, shortly before check out time staff called and asked if I needed any help with luggage - even though I only had my camera bag and a weekender. And of course when I left a whole legion of staff came out waved good-bye.
Apparently the current owner is the 20th generation of this ryokan - I am now appreciating these things more and more. Hoshino Resorts with all their bells and whistles are no match to this kind of true Japanese hospitality IMHO.

 

[rbjhan]

Sendai
Largest city of Tohoku. Founded by Date Masamune about 1600. You can still see him everywhere in Sendai nowadays.
Local specialties are Gyutan, edamame and Yuzuru Hanyu I happen to like all of them!

First up is Gyutan!
Rikyu and Kisuke you can find in many Japanese cities, but Zenjiro? Only in Sendai.


Next, Yuzuru Hanyu Greeting everyone coming into the visitor info centre.


And Date Masamune....on the coke bottle, ha ha .

 

[rbjhan]

Hotel Metropolitan Sendai East
There's a Westin in Sendai, but the location is quite awkward IMHO.
Booked the newer Metropolitan East (the one without East in its name is older) which is directly connected to JR station, unbeatable location.
Basically you exit Shinkansen South Gate, walk through S-PAL food court, and voila!


Lounge for all hotel guests, now that's a concept I can get behind.




My room, good size (Japan size of course!)

great views of the city.


Not a shrub!! VERY important.

 

[rbjhan]

That's Mr. Musubimaru in the middle...Sendai's mascot. Basically an onigiri (rice ball) wearing Date Masamune's crescent helmet


Yodobashi across the street.


After a few days staying where you can't even find a konbini (convenience store), imagine my joy seeing all the shops near Sendai station! From S-PAL to Loft to Tokyu Hands to Parco...no sightseeing for the rest of the day!