Kruger and Southern Africa

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Our mains:

+1 had the fish (Kingklip Don Juan):

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I substituted the beef off the other menu:

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Our desserts:

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The cheese platter:

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Of course when it's a private party, there's always someone who tries to gatecrash:

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The Royal has a lovely deck on the Zambezi riverfront...

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M

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From where you can easily see the spray from the Falls:

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It's a lovely, relaxing spot and I could easily have settled in here for the afternoon.

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However, it's much too early and the Falls are calling us to come for a closer look.

So we booked a table at the restaurant for dinner and headed off.
this brings back such good memories! We stayed at the Royal Livingstone for 5 nights a few years ago and loved it! We were there in early March and the falls were just amazing - hard to believe it actually isn't the peak of the water flow
 
Unfortunately you will be waiting a long time. The river level is way too high to attempt it. They even have a heavily armed Policeman on duty to stop people from even thinking about it.

He did tell us that he is also a member of the rescue team and that last year they had to rescue two people who tried when the water level was not appropriate. It's strictly a dry season activity, he says.

What a shame; but at least we have an excuse for not giving it a go.;):rolleyes:
We were able to do the Angel's pool, the Devils pool was already closed. However there was no way we had enough courage to go right to the edge - just sitting in the pool and clambering over the rocks that close to the edge took every bit of courage I possess!

Walking over is a dry season activity only, but taking a Livingstone Island tour allows you to go out to Devils pool and Angel's pool. Devil's pool closes first and then Angel's Pool once the water is really high. I have just had a look at the website and Devils pool is closed, but Angel's pool is still open, so you can do it if still there :)
 
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We were able to do the Angel's pool, the Devils pool was already closed. However there was no way we had enough courage to go right to the edge - just sitting in the pool and clambering over the rocks that close to the edge took every bit of courage I possess!

Walking over is a dry season activity only, but taking a Livingstone Island tour allows you to go out to Devils pool and Angel's pool. Devil's pool closes first and then Angel's Pool once the water is really high. I have just had a look at the website and Devils pool is closed, but Angel's pool is still open, so you can do it if still there :)

If we can't do the Devil's Pool, why settle for second best?

TBH, I'm not sure I would have the courage to do it either.
 
Our time in Africa draws to an end. The only thing left is to repack our bags and head to the airport.

Our taxi man, Mr Mupoti, arrives a couple of minutes late but honours his agreement to take us to the airport for K100.

Unfortunately there is currently no oneworld lounge at LVI. I asked an airport staff member who advised that one is under construction but I forgot to ask if it's for SA, BA or all carriers.

Priority Pass suggests that there is a temporary lounge while the construction work is underway but I didn't see any evidence of it.

After take-off we get a last view of the Falls:

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BA6292 LVI-JNB

Whereas on our flight to LVI there was only +1 & I in J, this time we are joined by a number of Brits returning from safari. 8 of us in total.

An uneventful flight and we arrive in JNB about 20 minutes early. One thing I've noticed is that Comair, who operate the BA flights in this part of the world, like to run early. All three of our flights have left and arrived early, around 30 mins on average.

When we arrive at the immigration/transit area in JNB there are three officers on duty, one of whom actually enjoys his work. He jokes with everyone and even smiles. How refreshing. And how different to so many of the immigration staff around the world.

Interesting that the OneWorld site still shows that QF use the SA Baobab Lounge whereas, in fact, they have used the Shongololo Lounge for some time. After a couple of hours in the Lounge, we board QF064 and settle in, but there is one last event to report.
 
My goodness 4 years ago there was construction work at LVI.There was a lounge but small and overcrowded with aircon that worked only 1 minute in 10.Was more pleasant outside the lounge.
 
If we can't do the Devil's Pool, why settle for second best?

TBH, I'm not sure I would have the courage to do it either.
It was definitely the scariest thing I have ever done -which is probably not saying much, as I am not one to push the boundaries in a physical sense. I think in the dry season Devils pool would be quite pleasant, but with the river in flood and a strong current, there was no way I was going to hold onto a rope and swim right to the edge. Particularly at my age when my hand grip is not all that strong!
 
My goodness 4 years ago there was construction work at LVI.There was a lounge but small and overcrowded with aircon that worked only 1 minute in 10.Was more pleasant outside the lounge.
when we were there 2 years ago there was no lounge, but BA had an arrangement with a pop up shop next to the sitting area and you could get free drinks and snacks (chips, lollies etc). That was true for J passengers, not sure about status.
 
when we were there 2 years ago there was no lounge, but BA had an arrangement with a pop up shop next to the sitting area and you could get free drinks and snacks (chips, lollies etc). That was true for J passengers, not sure about status.

Well we were in J but no arrangements were made; in fact, I was "forced" to buy a beer in the cafe so I could get access to the Internet. But at K30 the pain wasn't all that bad.
 
After a couple of hours in the Lounge, we board QF064 and settle in, but there is one last event to report.

So to continue...

Push back was about 20mins early and we taxied out and joined the queue to take off. Immediately in front of us was a SwissAir flight.

Shortly after the SwissAir flight began its take-off run, we pushed forward onto the runway and accelerated. This seemed a little unusual to me.

Then our Captain announced that a passenger had taken ill and we were returning to the Gate. Not much else was said about the ill passenger other than the Captain occasionally making announcements to keep us informed:

  1. the paramedics had come on board;
  2. the passenger was being taken off;
  3. ground staff were in the process of locating, and removing, her and her husband's bags;
  4. the plane would need to be refueled, etc.

We finally took off about two hours after our scheduled departure. However, we made up time and arrived in Sydney about an hour late.

While waiting for our bags, and again on the transfer bus to the domestic terminal, there were a number of South African pax discussing what had happened; a couple of them were seated very close to the ill passenger and witnessed the whole incident. From what I overheard I have pieced the following together:

The lady was seen in the lounge before the flight and seemed perfectly normal. Sometime after we pushed back, she slumped forward. I am not sure whether she was seated, standing or had stood up to do something, but she apparently collapsed without warning and was not breathing, and no pulse could be found. One of the S African passengers said: "I thought she was dead".

As luck would have it there were two Australian doctors on board; one seated in front of her and the other behind. Between the doctors and the crew, the passenger was well looked after and from what the CSM told me, she had regained consciousness and was quite lucid by the time the paramedics came on board; a period of 40mins according to the S African passengers. Of course, if the incident had occurred after we had taken off, if would have been considerably longer.

Our S African passengers were glowing in their praise, not only of the two Australian doctors, but also of the "extremely well trained crew". One stated that she was amazed at how quickly the two air hostesses organised oxygen and a drip.

About an hour before landing the CSM made a lengthy announcement advising those passengers that would miss connections, the details of their new flights (including flight numbers) or overnight accommodation, etc.

All in all, a difficult situation handled competently and professionally.

Qantas comes in for a lot of criticism on forums such as this; some of which is well deserved. Remember FASAs, JASAs, any time access, etc.; dare I mention "simpler and fairer"?

However, on this occasion the crew on QF064, and the ground staff in the background, performed faultlessly and should be commended. So, well done!
 
This trip was so well planned by JV, and certainly not without the help from the contributors to AFF. Although all our trips are fabulous, I would have to say this was one of the best trips we've had. So different to anywhere we've been previously. By the end of it I'd snapped approx. 9,000 photos, many of which have been culled and still some more need to go... a job for another day. The scenery was outstanding, the people amazing, the food sensational, and, well, then there's the animals... they really take my fancy. We had many very funny situations, which made me laugh for days, literally!! Thank you to everyone for your contribution, before and during, without it, places and activities would have been missed.

To finish off, just a few more animal pics that I love. Apologies for any double-ups, but always good to see a second time anyway!

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A Postscript

When we started planning this trip almost two years ago we had not long returned from a Classic Award (280k) trip that we successfully split into two (half in 2014 concentrating on Tuscany and half in 2015 concentrating on Central Europe). On that trip we had a stopover in SIN after touring Tuscany and flew home on a paid ticket before continuing our Award flights a few months later.

For this trip I started wondering if I could come up with an itinerary that would allow me to split the Classic Award ticket into three segments (a month in Japan and two visits to Europe) at a reasonable price. I was able to do it with two visits to Eastern Europe but we were meeting friends in France. Everything I tried for Western Europe came out a couple of hundred miles too many. Then, after reading some TR's, I thought of Africa.

This solved the mileage issue but the next challenge was to include the Cherry Blossoms in Japan (March/April) with a visit to Kruger in dry season (May to November - when we were advised game viewing was better) and wet season at Victoria Falls (February/March/April). Plus, we were already committed to two weeks on the Canal du Midi in September/October.

Lastly, we had to find Award availability to allow it to happen and given that some airlines only open their bookings 300 or 330 days out, we were always going to have to book it in at least two bites (and pay the change fees).

So we booked the following:

CFS-SYD-NRT-stop 1-NRT-PEK-stop 2-PEK-LHR-MRS-stop 3/land segment-MAD-FCO-DOH-JNB-stop 4/land segment-WDH-JNB-LVI-stop 5-LVI-JNB-DOH-SYD-CFS, a total of 34,303 miles. The last 6 flights (shown in italics) would hopefully be re-booked for later dates when (and if) the award seats were released.

~ 1 week before our first flight, all of those last six flights were showing as available in J (except SYD-CFS of course) and I rang QFF to make the changes. The agent could see them and could book all except the QR flights JNB-DOH-SYD. These flights were available for new bookings only; they could not be booked when changing an existing booking. I would have to cancel the existing flights and start again, hoping the seats were still there. This was a surprise however, a number of members have since reported similar issues with QR award seats, on other threads.

The QF agent came to the rescue asking if we would consider two J seats on QF064 direct JNB-SYD?

"We would, but I can't see any availabilty".

She replied: "well two seats have just become available on the date you want". I suspected that QF had opened the seats for us.

So with a further change due to a French Air Traffic Controller's strike, our final itinerary ended up as:

CFS-SYD-NRT-stop 1-NRT-PEK-stop 2-PEK-LHR-CDG-MRS-stop 3/land segment-MAD-FCO-DOH-JNB-stop 4/land segment-WDH-JNB-LVI-stop 5-LVI-JNB-SYD-CFS: a total of 29,622 miles.
 
A summary

As much for my benefit as to finish off this TR, I have put together a summary.

In addition to the 29,622 miles on our award ticket, we took the following paid flights: HND-CTS, CTS-NGO, KIX-OKA, OKA-cough, cough-HND, NRT-BNE-SYD-CFS, CFS-SYD-HND, LYS-MAD, JNB-SYD-CFS, CFS-SYD-JNB, CPT-WDH. An additional 28,836 miles for a total of 58,458 and we picked up some points and SCs along the way. We flew with 10 airlines: QF, JL, NU, BA, BA(Comair) ,AF, IB, I2, QR, SW.

We hired 10 cars and drove more than 8,600 km, >3,000 in Namibia alone, and took 5 trains journeys (not counting the numerous metro trips).

All up 10 countries: Japan, China, France, Spain, Italy, South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and Zimbabwe. And transited LHR & DOH.

We also did an awful lot of walking.

Was it worth splitting the Classic Award into three? Or would it have been better to do three Classic Awards? The answer probably depends on how many points one has versus how much cash you are willing to part with.

All I can say is, we had a great time and enjoyed every minute.
 
Thank you so much for an awesome TR. fir those of us who are more armchair travellers than actual travellers, I have enjoyed every minute of "my" trip. Great photos, well written report. I felt loved ke I was there! Well done.
 
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