La Mer, le Canal & les Pyrénées

Paris

Next day it was off to Paris for 7 nights. We’ve been to Paris a couple of times but there were still things to do and see that we hadn’t gotten around to on previous visits. As we had plenty of time to kill between checking out of Jacques’ place and check-in time for our new digs, we decided we might as well take the train. The RER station is about 15 minutes walk (dragging bags) but when we arrived we discovered there was a train broken down somewhere and we have to wait about 90 minutes.

Then into the city where we had lunch and bought a local eSIM for +1’s phone (we decided to only get 1 SIM at this stage and see how it works).

Then onto the metro to La Courneuve (end of line 7). At $A87.94 per night we weren’t expecting much but the apartment was fine, if a little small. OTOH the area was not great. A bit of rubbish laying around and buildings needing some TLC. Without wanting to sound like a snob, it’s a lower socio-economic area. However they do know how to maximise the use of a parking space:

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As it was our intention to only use it as somewhere to sleep and spend the days around Paris, it suited our purposes but I wouldn’t recommend it. Unfortunately +1 picked up a tummy bug and was unwell for 3 to 4 days so we didn’t get to tick off everything on our list. Looks like we’ll have to come back to Paris again sometime.
 
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Le Train Bleu

Inside the Gare de Lyon is a restaurant called Le Train Bleu (a favourite of Michael Portillo’s):

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It’s quite beautiful:

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As we may not get back here for quite some time we decided to stay for lunch, including crepe suzette:

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Being jetlagged we forgot to take photos of the digs but you can look it up here: BnB near CDG While possibly not ideal when arriving on a morning flight it would be a good option for the night before departing from CDG.

Thanks - that's exactly what I need for next year. Jacques will get some more business.
 
Without wanting to sound like a snob, it’s a lower socio-economic area.
You're not being a snob. The southern suburbs (and I think east?) are definitely the places to pick if staying outside of the arrondissements.

However they do know how to maximise the use of a parking space:

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You know that they don't put handbrakes on when parked so that people can quite literally bump their way out 😆
 
After lunch and with a somewhat higher credit card balance, we crossed the Seine and went for a walk along the Left Bank…

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We came across small areas where couples were dancing...

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And then past the oldest clock in Paris which is that of the Palais de la Cité on the Île de la Cité, commissioned by Charles V in 1370 for the palace's northeast tower. It was designed by Henri de Vic and installed in 1371. It is considered the first public clock in Paris and was a symbol of the French monarchy's assertion of its regal functions and emancipation from the Church.

Indeed, before this clock, only churches told the time and Parisians relied on church bells to keep track of time. This clock marks a turning point in history by giving the King's time.

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Le pont Neuf:

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Many people think that "Le pont Neuf" means the 9th bridge. However, despite being the oldest bridge in Paris, it actually translates as "the new bridge". (Neuf can mean either "nine" or "new"; according to Thoughtco.com, Neuf means new in the sense of brand new, fresh out of the factory, first of its kind.) This may help to explain why the name "the new bridge" has continued to this day as it was the first bridge that crossed the entire river; previous bridges only went from one bank to one of the islands. It was also the first bridge that didn't have buildings/shops on it similar to the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Apparently the King didn't want the new bridge to restrict the view along the Seine. It was completed in 1606.
 
We arrived at the immigration desk and the chap behind the desk flicked through +1’s passport until he found some empty space, then stamped her passport; no questions asked. He then turned to mine and again flicked through the pages looking for somewhere to put his stamp when he came across my visa. This confused him and he asked “why do you have a visa?”. Because we are staying more than 3 months, I replied. Looking more confused, he looked back at the front cover and said “But this is an Australian passport, you don’t need a visa to enter France”. I said I believe I need one if I am staying more than 90 days.

Looking even more confused than before, he typed away on his computer before mumbling something like “it doesn’t matter anyway”, stamped my passport and sent us on our way.

Now everything you read would suggest that he had no idea of the rules; after all, why would the French Embassy in Australia be processing hundreds of applications per day if visas were not required?

So, you're unlikely to be asked for, or required to show, your visa on entry. However, when it comes to departing and you have stayed more that the permissible 90 days, you could be answering a few uncomfortable questions! Then again, knowing the French Authorities, perhaps no one will even bother to check when we leave in December. We shall see.

I wonder how Britt and David are managing it on their lazy $2.4M... 🧐
 
And then past the oldest clock in Paris which is that of the Palais de la Cité on the Île de la Cité, commissioned by Charles V in 1370 for the palace's northeast tower. It was designed by Henri de Vic and installed in 1371. It is considered the first public clock in Paris and was a symbol of the French monarchy's assertion of its regal functions and emancipation from the Church.

Indeed, before this clock, only churches told the time and Parisians relied on church bells to keep track of time. This clock marks a turning point in history by giving the King's time.

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Love this! Very interesting. Thank you!
 
Le canal Saint-Martin

A cruise on the river Seine is on the list for many visitors to Paris and if it is on yours, then I highly recommend taking the combined cruise on le canal Saint-Martin and the Seine.

The Canal Saint Martin is 4.6 km long and connects the Canal de l’Ourcq to the river Seine. The Canal de l’Ourcq was originally built to provide fresh water to Paris and the canal Saint-Martin was built to connect it to the Seine to allow barges to deliver goods. Two kilometres of the canal was covered in the 19th century to create wide boulevards and public spaces above. We booked our cruise with Paris Canal through get your guide (EUR23 adults, 20 seniors). The cruise is available in either direction and there was an excellent commentary in both French and English.

We started at the Parc de La Villette and headed downstream towards the Seine. Along the way you pass under a lifting bridge, past two swing bridges and through the 2 km tunnel mentioned above. You also pass through nine locks dropping 25 metres in total. In between, the canal passes numerous restaurants and bars and drops you off outside the Musée d'Orsay.

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The lifting bridge in open position to allow our passage underneath and approaching one of the swing bridges...

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Some of the locks and a lockkeeper's cottage...

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Then after entering the Seine:

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And we end our cruise at the Musée d'Orsay...

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