La Mer, le Canal & les Pyrénées

le Musée Maritime de La Rochelle

As one of the largest sea ports in France, it is not surprising that La Rochelle has its own Maritime Museum. There are numerous displays as well as three vessels open for public inspection: France 1, a former meteorological ship (the ones that were stationed out in the Atlantic to report on weather patterns and systems), a retired tug and a former Atlantic trawler. All very interesting.

There are also two small yachts with historic significance:

Joshua

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In 1968 the double-ended steel ketch Joshua was entered into the Golden Globe race, sponsored by the Sunday Times. This was the first single-handed, non-stop, round-the-world yacht race. Joshua was sailed by its owner Bernard Moitessier whom the maritime museum is named in honour of. A very interesting character, Bernard sailed Joshua to Plymouth to meet the criteria for the race and departed months after some of the smaller vessels. (Competitors were allowed to start any time between 1 June and 31 October.)

Moitessier made good time and reached Cape Horn in 77% of the time of Robin Knox-Johnston who, having departed England earlier, was leading the race. There was even speculation that Moitessier would not only win the 5,000 pound prize for the fastest circumnavigation, but also be the first to finish. There was talk of a naval escort to accompany him back to France and large celebrations to welcome him home. However, Moitessier was becoming increasingly disillusioned with the whole idea of the race and the over-commercialism of the modern world and after passing the Falkland Islands delivered a message to a passing freighter (by slingshot onto its deck) that he was withdrawing from the race.

So rather than continuing north and back to England, he turned to the east and passed by Capes Good Hope and Leeuwin a second time before continuing to Tahiti. In doing so he had been around the world single-handed, non-stop, one and a half times, travelling 37,455 km over a 10 month period. In some ways the race had become a farce: only one competitor finished, one committed suicide, one vessel sank and the remainder never finished.

You can read more about the race here.



Damien

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In 1969, two young French guys set sail in Damien, a 10m yacht they had built themselves. Over the next 4 years they sailed 55,000 miles and travelled to both the Artic and Antarctic. Departing from La Rochelle, Damien sailed via London and Norway to Spitsbergen reaching 79 ° 36 ‘N. They then visited Iceland and Greenland before heading down the east coast of North America to the West Indies. Then followed a voyage of 2,000km up the Amazon.

From there they headed south and rounded Cape Horn from east to west. Then to South Georgia where Damien underwent repairs after being capsized three times in a storm. From there they sailed the 3,000 miles to Cape Town under jury rig for more extensive repairs before sailing to Crozet, Kerguelen, Heard and Macquarie Islands. Bad weather forced them north and they sailed to Tasmania, then New Caledonia, Fiji, Tonga, the Cook Islands and to Tahiti. From Tahiti they sailed directly to the Antarctic Peninsula and moored at Adelaide Island, being the first small sailing boat to moor under the Antarctic Circle.

From there back to La Rochelle via South Shetland, South Georgia, Argentina and Brazil. A classic voyage during times when there was no GPS and very few, if any, cruise ships visiting the Artic or the Antarctic.
 
How is your French? I know the trip report isn’t current but did you feel that you bonded with any of the locals after being there for a month? And were you able to chat to them?
 
I'll admit to being about 2 weeks behind.

My french is not great, but improving. There are two problems: either they pick up on my accent and want to practice their english or they think my french is better than it is and go back to normal speed. But we get by pretty well. They are very patient in this part of France.
 
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le Tour des Tours

You can do a tour of the medieval towers of La Rochelle although the Tour Saint-Nicholas is currently closed (reopening latter this year). So we took a tour of the remaining two towers for a slightly reduced price (EUR 9-50 pp). Well worth taking the time to visit the towers.

La Rochelle had been in both French and English hands a number of times but finally became French in 1372 and major fortifications were built. It was protestant between 1568 and 1628. Then, between 1627 and 1628 Cardinal de Richelieu led the Great Siege which brought La Rochelle under the authority of Louis XIII who ordered the destruction of the fortifications. Only the towers and parts of a couple of the town's gates survived and were listed as historic monuments in 1879.

The Saint Nicholas tower was completed around 1376. It was built on oak piles driven into the mud but started sinking and leaning to the north-east during construction. Rather than start again they widened the base and foundations and added a buttress tower to stabilise it; it is plumb from the second floor up. As noted above, we not able to go inside.

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The Chain Tower was completed in 1390 and was originally 34m high but in 1651 gunpowder that was being stored there was set on fire by soldiers when they left the tower during the Fronde (an uprising against the monarchy). It lay abandoned for three centuries before being cut down to 20 metres and retored in the 20th century. It's called the Chain Tower because originally there was another smaller tower in front of it which housed a large winch with which a heavy iron chain could be pulled across the entrance to close the harbour. From the chain tower you get an excellent view of the port and city.

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The origins of the Lanterne Tower date back to the end of the 12th century when there was a three storey cylindrical tower on the site. In 1468 a massive spire and light were added to act as a landmark for ships. At 55m high it can be seen from all around the strait between the offshore islands. In 1632 the lantern collapsed and was finally replaced by a neo-gothic lantern during restoration works at the beginning of the 20th century. From the 16th to the 19th centuries the tower was used as a prison and there are over 600 items of graffiti carved into the interior stone walls.

And the view from the top is worth climbing all those stairs.

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More information about the towers: History of towers of La Rochelle - CMN
 
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U-Boats and le Musée du Bunker

During World War 2, the German Navy built U-boat bases in a number of ports on the Atlantic coast of France: Brest, Lorient, St-Nazaire, La Rochelle and Bordeaux. (There was also a base in Marseilles.)

In La Rochelle, the old harbour has a narrow and shallow entrance and a 60 degree turn before passing between the two medieval towers.

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The German Admiral decided it was not suitable for effective U-boat operations. So he decided to build the U-boat base in what is now the commercial harbour at La Pallice, about 5km to the west of the old town. You can’t get close to the U-boat base by road as it is within the restricted port area. However, +1 managed to get this shot from a distance.

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As the commanding officer at La Rochelle was concerned about air raids, a bunker was constructed under two adjoining buildings on Rue des Dames, a short walk from the Marché. The Bunker Museum (EUR9-50) is housed in the original bunker and tells the story of its use as well as some of the history of the German occupation of La Rochelle and the U-boat operations. We found it very interesting and well worth the entry fee. Although most displays are in French, they have folders with typed information in English to explain most of the exhibits.

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The bar:

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The U-boat bases in the Brittany ports of Brest, Lorient and St-Nazaire were built within the cities and Allied bombing of the bases destroyed the towns around them. However, as the rooves were made from two layers of concrete with a total thickness of up to 7.5 metres the bombs hardly dented the submarine pens.

Looking online there are a number of sites that suggest that the city La Rochelle was bombed during WW2. However, displays in the Bunker Museum state that it was the U-boat base at La Pallice that was bombed, and on 350 occasions. However, as the U-boat base was built 5km to the west, the city centre was never bombed.

La Rochelle was occupied by German troops on the 23rd June 1940. It was put under siege by the allies from 12 September 1944 and it was one of the last cities in France to be liberated (8th May 1945), the day after Germany surrendered. (There were also plans drawn up for a land assault on La Rochelle/La Pallice but the war ended before they were implemented.)

I find it ironic that the medieval towers and other remaining fortifications that were built to defend the city from attacks by sailing ships were partly responsible for the decision to build the submarine base at La Pallice and, as a result, the city and old port were spared from bombing raids in WW2. As a result, La Rochelle retains many of its buildings from the 13th, 14th, 15th and 16th centuries.
 
After 28 days in La Rochelle is was time to move on. We enjoyed our stay here and I would be happy to return.

The last few months before departure were extremely busy getting things organised at home and working through the complexities of getting our visas. We arranged for a friend to housesit while she is having major renovations carried out on her home. We also organised a long-term tenant for our airBnB so we have some money coming in while we are here.

We also had to arrange travel insurance which can become expensive when travelling for 6 months. I had intended to use the insurance on my St George Amplify Signature card which is one of the few (perhaps only) credit card insurances that covers trips of up to 6 months. Unfortunately when it came to activating the policy they declined to cover us due to pre-existing conditions. In fact, many of the insurance companies refused to cover us. Eventually we managed to get cover through Covermore for an acceptable, although somewhat higher than hoped-for, premium.

On previous trips I had used the CitiBank Plus debit card for fee-free withdrawals at ATMs and my Coles Rewards MasterCard for purchases with no foreign transaction fees, but still earning points. The CitiBank card was taken over by NAB and fortunately the replacement card remains fee-free, at least for now. About five weeks before departure the Coles card was enhanced with foreign exchange fees to be introduced at the end of June.

So it was a mad scramble to identify, apply and be approved for a new card that would allow me to earn points on our purchases while overseas for six months and have no foreign exchange fees. As I was now an NAB customer, I was able to apply for an NAB Rewards Signature card with a higher sign-up bonus and reduced monthly fee. The points earn in Australia is not great but not too bad on overseas transactions so I applied. Being retired, I had some difficulty getting approved but, after numerous phone calls and sending in lots of extra documents, I was approved a few days before departure.
 
Saint-Nazaire

As you can see from the above post, things were pretty busy in the lead up to this trip. On top of that, I wasn't sure that our visas would be approved and I didn't want to book someone's airBnB for a month and then cancel at short notice. So I didn't get around to booking some of our accommodation until quite late. Of course, by this time lots of places were already booked, but we did manage to find somewhere that had the inclusions we were looking for and was within our budget.

We were looking to head into Brittany and although St-Nazaire is currently in the department of Loire-Atlantique in the region of Pays de la Loire, it has historical links to Brittany and many of the locals consider it should still be part of Brittany. It is quite common to see the flag of Brittany flying around the area.

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Approaching St-Nazaire from the south you cross the Loire River. At the time of its opening is 1974, the Saint-Nazaire Bridge was the longest cable-stayed metallic bridge in the world. It's still quite impressive but does not cope with today's traffic volumes.

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One of St-Nazaire's claims to fame is that it has 20 beaches although many of those to the north of the main beach have absolute beachfront properties and so are difficult to access by vehicle. This is the main/town beach:

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And the esplanade:

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Salsa dancing is very popular at the Place du Commando on Sunday evenings:

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Watching all that dancing can make you very thirstly:

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Le Port

Saint-Nazaire was originally a small fishing village but around the mid-1800s the decision was made to use St-Nazaire as the outer harbour for Nantes. In 1862 a transatlantic line to Central America was opened from here to Veracruz and shipyards began to develop. Over the years it grew into one of the largest shipyards in the world with many well-known vessels being built here including SS France in 1912, SS Normandie in 1935 and more recently Queen Mary 2, many liners for Crystal, Celebrity and Norwegian as well as MS Sovereign of the Seas (and many of the other "of the Seas" ships: Monarch, Majesty, Legend, Splendor, Rhapsody, Vision, Harmony, Symphony, Wonder & Utopia).

In addition, many of the MSC ships have also been built here and they are currently finishing MSC World America:

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The Bassin de Penhoët, where the MSC World America is being fitted out in the above photgraph, is large enough to moor a dozen or more ships of this size and is connected to the Loire River via the Louis Joubert Lock (also known as the Normandie Lock as it was built to allow the construction of the SS Normandie). It's 350 metres long by 50 metres wide and quite an impressive site (Photo borrowed from the Internet.)


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At the time it was built it was the largest dry-dock in the world and during WW2 it was the only dry-dock in western France capable of servicing the German battleships Bismark and Tirpitz.
 
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Another U-boat Base

Given its port facilities and its strategic location, it is not surprising that St-Nazaire was chosen as one of the sites for the German U-boat bases. It was built on the site of the transatlantic dock which was demolished to make way for the base. As the town had grown up around the harbour, the submarine pens were situated in the centre of the town, unlike in La Rochelle where the pens were 5 km out of town.

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The base could hold 20 submarines, 8 in dry dock and 12 wet docks for refueling, etc. According to Wikipedia: 'The base was equipped with 62 workshops, 97 magazines, 150 offices, 92 dormitories for submarine crews, 20 pumps, 4 kitchens, 2 bakeries, two electrical plants, one restaurant and a hospital'.

During the war the base and the port were heavily bombed by the allies and while the submarine pens survived virtually unscathed, 85% of Saint-Nazaire was destroyed. So almost the entire city dates from the 1950s or later. For many years after the war the base was abandoned but in 1994 the municipality decided to incorporate the base into the recevelopment of the old port area, partly as a reminder of the past and partly because of the cost of demolition.

The front walls of a couple of the pens were removed so that the harbour is again open to the town, a number of museums were constructed within the building, as was the tourism office, and a ramp gives access to the roof from where there are good views over the town and harbour to the bridge.

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You can do a tour of the base for EUR7-00 (only tour in English is on Thursday mornings at 1130).
 
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l'écluse fortifiée

Between the U-boat pens and the Loire River there are two locks, side-by-side. At the end of 1943 work commenced on fortifying one of the locks to protet the U-boats while transfering between the pens and the Loire. Previously the U-boats transferred in the open air and were considered vulnerable to attack.

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l'Espadon

The fortified lock is now a museum which houses a 1060s French submarine, the Espadon. For EUR13 you can take a tour of the Espadon with an audio-guide in English. Having never been on a submarine before we both found it very interesting. The Espadon, which translates as "Swordfish", was the first french submarine to navigate under the artic ice.

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Our Digs in Saint-Nazaire

Our accommodation here is OK, but not great. As noted above I was late in booking for this part of the trip so maybe I missed out on the best deals; maybe it suffers by comparison to our accommodation in La Rochelle which was close to perfect for our needs; maybe the nice places are beyond our budget as we are now in peak season. Luckily we are only here for 28 days before we move on.

So, what are the issues? On airBnB it is described as "Beachfront": it is in fact two blocks from the beach (perhaps it got lost in translation). Not that we are keen on sunbaking but it's not accurate and I'm sure a beachfront property would get more sea breeze on hot days; and there's not even a fan. It also states that there is a backyard and outdoor dining area: well there is an overgrowing area at the back of the property but you can't get to it as the door is locked. When we arrived there was only one teaspoon and one dinner knife, and no wine glasses! Mon Dieu!

We sent the owner an email expressing our disappointment and, after a bit of back and forth, we were supplied with extra cutlery and some champagne flutes. Well that's something but I will report the discrepancy if it is still there once we leave. As this is mainly a place to base ourselves while we explore the region, we have decided to stay. Some photos:

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Something else I should have mentioned; the airBnB website states that it has parking on the premises. In fact, the parking is on the street in front of the building. The parking is free and I can always get a spot close to the apartment; but it is not what we were expecting given the description.

On the plus side, we did get a 12% discount for booking for 28 days.
 
After frequenting the excellent market in La Rochelle, the main marché in St-Nazaire is quite disappointing. It's only open 4 days per week and the produce is no where near the quality of that in La Rochelle. We visited once and haven't bothered to return. There are a couple of other marchés around but the only one we've found that is open 7 days is at La Baule about a 20 minute drive to the west.
We didn't take any photos of the marché in St-Nazaire but here are a couple from the one in La Baule:

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Piriac-sur-Mer

About 45 mins to the NW of St-Nazaire is a traditional Breton sea-side village called Piriac-sur-Mer. It's a very pretty village. We arrived in time to catch the end of market day and then went for a stroll around the old part of town.

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We stopped here for a very enjoyable lunch:

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Then continued down a few more streets:

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