Lapland for the Polar Night, + Austria and France

offshore171

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We have been planning a winter trip to Lapland in Northern Finland for a number of years, and I managed to find some award flights for the whole family from Tokyo to Helsinki, and return award flights from Paris back to Singapore.

With that, a trip was born.

Travelling party is a family of 2 adults 2 kids, and the travel was in Dec 2024-Jan 2025

The "polar night" is the period at high latitudes during which the sun does not rise at all.

It varies by Latitude, but In our part of Lapland, it goes from about the 12th of December until around 2nd January. You get about 5 hours of dawn/dusk, which is absolutely mesmerising.

The soft arctic lighting produces the most amazing hues. A sample:
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Starting at the beginning, we departed out of Sydney.

The outbound flights were:

Syd - HND (Tokyo) as a paid fare
2 nights layover in Tokyo
HND - HEL on JAL Awards
1 night layover in Helsinki
HEL-KTT (Kittila in Lapland) Finnair paid fare

So Qantas out of Sydney was a bit of a trainwreck.

They started announcing that QF59 was delayed 3h. This blew out further to 4h40mins

It's a flight that even when running on time gets you into Tokyo pretty late, but with this delay we arrived into Haneda incredibly late at around 1230am

Fortunately, JP immigration was a bit more automated than last year.


Happily we had booked the Villa Fontaine, which is connected to the airport. At 1am it was a relief to be able to get to our room without having to travel downtown.

We booked a Japanese Style "family room" which had a western queen bed, plus two futons for the kids. A nice touch at the Villa Fontaine is that they provide PJ's, so if you're just having a layover, you dont even have to unpack.

Next day we made our way into downtown Tokyo for some wandering around and stretch the legs before the next onward flight to Europe.




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For the next flight, Narita early AM departure was very smooth and quick through immigration and security

JL47 pushed back just 8 minutes late and, incredibly, they made an apology over the PA!


View of the terminal from the Villa Fontaine
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Economy meal, way better than QF
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Villa Fontaine reception
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As we flew over the polar ice cap, a very angry and loud announcement comes over the PA.


It was to the effect of "A passenger has been caught smoking in the toilets. We remind you this is a criminal matter and any such conduct will be referred to law enforcement"

The flight was otherwise really good. JAL Dreamliners have fewer seats, so they are more comfortable.

Pretty much everything was better than the previous Qantas A330 flight. The cabin air quality, the seats, entertainment, meals, the on-time performance..

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Next morning and it's back to the terminal for the <2hr flight up to the Arctic circle.

The destination airport is Kittila, which services the resort villages of Levi and Yllas.

It would be the last time we see the sun* for a week or so
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Getting darker as we head north
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Drifting sports cars on frozen lakes is a thing up here. Ad at the luggage belts in Kittila
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We then get a short taxi ride from the airport into the village of Levi.

It's around -4C

So why Lapland?

It's one of western Europe's last true wildernesses. There's something special about the soft Arctic light against the landscapes.

There's activities such as skiing (both downhill and cross country), reindeer and husky sleds through ancient forests and across frozen lakes. Quite serene. It's also one of the best places in the world for sighting the northern lights.



Our digs for the next week or so consists of a 3 bedroom chalet from Levin Alppitalot

Very nice, would recommend

It's only steps away from the village centre, and right across from the ski lifts

The cabin has a full kitchen and its own sauna


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Hunting the northern lights at midnight. You can walk about 10 minutes away from the village to get clear of the street lights and then find very dark skies.

There's also a designated viewing area on a frozen lake just across from the tourist info centre. They deliberately keep this area dark without streetlights to maximise the night sky visibility



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There's an app to alert you when they are visible
 
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