Let's talk about Ryokans

It seems so, although I did have all those lovely phrases you laid out for me and I practiced assiduously šŸ˜ž

I will always remember during my first visit, one young girl (no more than early 20s) in a restaurant. She came to greet me at the entrance, I spoke English ofc, 2 seconds later she ran back to the kitchen faster than Usain Bolt....
So yeah, sometimes it's just fear.
 
Right, enough of this talk.
Let's start with some examples!

In no particular order, some of my all time favourite ryokans.

Yunushi Ichijoh, Miyagi
24K Yen, Oct 19

This is their review score on IKYU as of now
Overall 4.66 (out of 5)
Room and amenities 4.63
Facilities 4.46
Service 4.79
Cuisine 4.83
Onsen 4.54
Satisfaction 4.73
I would say my feelings match the score closely.

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This ryokan is in Miyagi, not too far from Sendai.
They have one shuttle bus per day picking up guests from ShiroishiZao station. I missed that one because of my own miscalculations....so I asked someone to call them to let them know I wouldn't be there on time.
When I arrived by taxi, they knew exactly who I was, 3 people came out to greet me, the male Nakai spoke quite good English.
Then I was shown this room.
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I only booked an entry level Japanese room so that was a nice surprise!
*Generally I don't expect upgrades in a ryokan.

I especially loved the kotatsu!!
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Service was prompt, very friendly but not overbearing.

Onsen is not their main selling point, but it was nice. Apparently this one dates back 600 years.
Oh yes, this family ryokan has been there since the Sengoku Jidai. Current owner is the 20th gen.

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Note: even the new building is acutally quite old....so facilities are not great.
No lifts, for example. And many flights of stairs!
 
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All guest rooms are in the new building.
Their old building is a registered National Treasure, currently used only as dining rooms.
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The dinner was fantastic.
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Breakfast
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Even though they don't call themselves a Ryori Ryokan, I'd say Ichijoh is basically one.
However what impressed me the most, was their service. Even after 6 years, I'd still rate them to be the best I've seen.
Clearly perfected over 20 generations!
 
Bousui, Shizuoka
33K, Nov 22

The Izu Peninsula is a popular onsen destination about 100k southwest of Tokyo.
There's a very fancy special train going down from Tokyo all the way to Shimoda.
The Saphir Odoriko.

Just my luck the day I went to Izu on this train it was delayed for close to 30 mins!
So I was extra impressed when Bousui's car stopped right in front of me when I walked out of the station. How did they keep track of the train? Still no idea...

This ryokan I would say it's relatively large...
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View from top floor Lobby, which was street level on the other side.
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My room was on level 2.
Most of their rooms are actually Japanese style. I happened to book one that was not šŸ¤Ŗ
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Matcha and wagashi was served in the room.
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One of their main selling point is the private onsens, there are 4 iirc...
You can book one free of charge.
It was massive!
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In comparison the public bath was not very special, at all....

Dinner was also fantastic.
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The best Japanese breakfast I've ever had.
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Okyakuya, Kurokawa onsen, Kumamoto.
25K, Nov 23

Kurokawa onsen is (one of) the prettiest onsen towns in Japan, IMHO.
Deep in the Aso mountains, it's not easy to get there thus not overrun by tourists, yet.

The townscape is mostly 2 story rustic looking wooden buildings, stone stairs etc.
Ryokans here are all quite small and they don't take big groups.

Okyakuya is probably the most traditional looking one (inside out) I've stayed.
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Lobby
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This was a six tatami room. (there's also a toilet and that's it)
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They have SEVEN baths (for 13 roomsļ¼‰.
2 private baths and 5 public baths.
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Both private baths looked more or less the same.....
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My favourite of the lot.
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This being Kumamoto, I didn't expect too much re dinner.
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Chicken hot pot was very nice though.
You can tell it's free range!
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And the basashi! @jukebox333
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Almost all the ryokans in town participate in the Robenburo Meguri (tour of outdoor bath). You can buy a tegata for 1500 Yen and visit 3 ryokans for their baths.
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I actually stayed in Kurokawa for 2 nights. But 2nd night's ryokan was maybe 15 mins drive away.
Okyakuya's staff drove me to the bus stop, waited outside for the other ryokan's car to come, confirmed with them it was indeed for me before handing me (plus bags) over to the other driver.
Now that was some excellent service.

If I come back here that'd be for the baths and service.
 
Okay, so it's obvious that I prefer a more Japanese style ryokan with intimate settings and more personalised service.
But I can understand why that might be a little too much for others.
Not to worry!

Let's go for something, hmm, a bit more hotel like!
*This is not in my personal top 10 but I do recommend for first timers.

La Vista Kusatsu Hills
35K, May 23

First of all this is part of Kyoritsu Group which also runs Dormy Inns, among others.
Dormy Inn and Onyado Nono are my favourite business hotels, period.
Their ryokan operations, are kinda similar in the sense that you know what to expect if you've been to others, so that might be less intimidating. It is also more of an "assembly line" kinda service...
This particular one is also western in style, so extra point if you don't like all the Japanese fluff?

Obviously this is in Kusatsu, top ranking onsen town for many years.
There is a shuttle bus to/from Karuizawa, which is about one hour drive away!

Lobby, they don't serve matcha here. Instead there's a drink corner.
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Guest rooms are all western style.
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But each room comes with a private bath on the balcony.
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And of course there are also many public baths, on top floor.
You need to take towels from your room.
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I didn't take pictures of every single bath, too many of them šŸ¤£
This is one of the small private baths.
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Dinner was "French- inspired" iirc.
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Evening ramen is the signature of all Kyoritsu properties.
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Breakfast buffet style.
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Kusatsu town centre is about 15 mins walk, there are frequent mini shuttle buses though.
And I just love the Yubatake.
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There are another two more traditional ryokans in Kusatsu run by the same group.
Almost all the Kyoritsu ryokans will be a good introduction to this world, generally they are not too expensive either.
I grew out of them now, but would recommend to anyone who's after something easier to handle.
 
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I remember that from one of you TRs :) .

šŸ˜Ž
It is nice.
For a combination of factors, including location, price point, style...etc I highly recommend for first timers.
There's a reason Kusatsu came out No.1 in the rankings so many years in a row now. I want to go back, preferably in winter!
 
@rbjhan

Only because you have added some food pics but maybe you are intending to add this in later:

Do they serve sake with their meals?
If so do they have a Sake menu. I'm not into alcohol much but do like Sake (introduced to it by my cousin's husband who is a Sake sommelier.)

QF Lounge HND had a range of Sake when I was there a few years ago.
 
@rbjhan

Only because you have added some food pics but maybe you are intending to add this in later:

Do they serve sake with their meals?
If so do they have a Sake menu. I'm not into alcohol much but do like Sake (introduced to it by my cousin's husband who is a Sake sommelier.)

QF Lounge HND had a range of Sake when I was there a few years ago.

There will always be a drinks menu, but in most cases it will be extra charge.
I do not drink alcohol at all so cannot comment on the drinks selection, and no I obviously will not be talking about it.

Edit
Just one minor language point:
Sake in English has a meaning, that we know is Japanese rice wine.
However in Japanese it means alcohol. For example when I tell people I don't drink I'll say ćŠć•ć‘ć‚’é£²ć¾ćŖ恄 O sake o nomanai, then they will serve me soft drinks.
So sometimes people might be very confused as to what you want, if they are not used to dealing with foreigners. In which case it might be better to say Nihonshu ę—„ęœ¬é…’.
 
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Do they serve sake with their meals?

Sake flight, and an extra for a discerning guest :)

 
So far I've written 4 that's all in the mid range price point.
Maybe it's time to see what more money can buy (or not ha ha).

Kagaya Villa Matsu no Midori
68K, Mar 23

Kagaya is one of the most famous ryokans in Japan, although I'm not exactly sure why šŸ¤£
At least part of what you are paying for is the reputation.
*Note that all 4 Kagaya properties in Noto Peninsula are still closed as of now. Last year's earthquake hit the region very hard.

I took this train to Wakura onsen.
And this was when the first con came about. A good ryokan should have written beforehand to enquire about how you plan to get there, well this one didn't. I had to call them myself to book the shuttle bus šŸ˜¢, in my extremely broken Japanese, because apparently no one spoke English, le sigh.
Actually there was at least one, probably just the timing of my call....

The lobby had great view though.
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Tea and snack was served here.
Note the lacquerware! Very famous product of this region.
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This was their entry level room. Yeah.
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No private onsen here, but the public bath was nice.
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Minibar was all free.
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Dinner was very tasty.
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Nodoguro!
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Breakfast
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Overall this was a very nice stay. Everything was nice but nothing really stands out, unlike Yamanoha's public bath with stunning views, or Bousui's private onsen, or Ichijoh's service and food...
Do I regret it? No. Would I stay again? Also no.
 
Sake flight, and an extra for a discerning guest :)


That's the food menu, where's the drink menu then?
 

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