Mexico and .....? Itinerary advice.

[vetrade]

Just a few comments......
Can swim with whale sharks if you're there at the right time of year (we did it during September, 2013). but it's a great experience. They are massive and you can get close enough to touch them. Boats leave from Isla Mujures, not far from CUN. Lots of boats converge on the area so it can be crowded plus there is often quite a swell so seasickness can be a problem. It helps to make sure you book a newer, faster boat - the slower ones roll around in the swell more and exacerbate the sickness.

The ruins at Chichen Itza are great and there are large open areas where you can stand back and appreciate the scale of them but there can be lots of tourists; plus the obligatory souvenir sellers. Admission to the ruins included lunch at the restaurant run by the locals. It was unexpectedly good - multiple food choices (BBQ'd fish and meat etc etc.) of good quality. We self-drove (180km from CUN) and the freeway is one of the most boring drives you could imagine - it's a divided road but the trees are very tall either side so you get to see virtually nothing at all for the whole trip. On the way back we took the alternate route through Valladolid (?) and boy do you get to see how the other half live on that road! Lots of poverty and squalid living conditions. Watch out for the speed humps too - they are everywhere and not painted so you can be airborne before you even know they are there.

I would definitely recommend a swim in a cenote while you're near Chichen Itza. It's a unique experience to go swimming in a hole deep underground. They had good change room facilities and were well organised too.

CUN is just a row of hotels and not very interesting (the tourist markets are cr^p). Playa Del Carmen is much nicer but, as someone else mentioned, it is becoming a bit too commecialised but very clean and good restaurants.

Tulum wasn't very interesting compared to Chichen Itza and on a much smaller scale but I guess if you travel all that way it's sensible to take a look - plus the views over the very blue water are worth a few pics.

As a general comment I'd be wary of getting too far off the main tourist routes if you are self driving. We never actually felt at risk but you definitely get a sense that lawlessness is part and parcel of the place - police always remain in groups (for their own protection?) and many carry machine guns. Even when you see routine car searches one or two always stand back with a machine guns ready.

 

[amaroo]

A great itinerary - when are you going?

December. I'm getting the knack of booking early - I've secured 4 x J award seats to DFW and 4 x J award seat back from JFK .... wife and I are flying F SYD-DFW

Also, beware of the US influence on food in Mexico. I ordered the house special at a beach cafe in Mexico - beautiful fresh fish and prawns smothered in Kraft cheese sauce

Will be doing our best to avoid - really looking forward to the food. Once I've sorted the resorts / hotels / Hacienda - I'll be starting on restaurants.

For Tikal, you will have the option of doing a tour *very* early to see the sunrise. It costs more to enter the park for that, since it's before the standard opening time.

I learned the hard way that you should check the time of year before going on a sunrise tour, since for 75% of the year it's too foggy to see the sunrise, and the only advantage left is hearing some howler monkeys wake up. You'll probably be there a few weeks after the time of year I was, so there is a fair chance that it would be for you too. Going early is still probably a good idea, to avoid the heat (and some of the crowds) but skipping sunrise would save you money and a 2am departure from Flores/Santa Elena.

Good idea asking about fog! We'll probably do the sunrise tour as we also want to see Uaxactun on the same day... Uaxactun, Guatemala: The Mayan village like nowhere else on Earth

We've specifically allocated three nights in the area so we can see the ruins and have some fun by giving the ruins a miss for a day.

 

[amaroo]

Similar to us and agree with most of the comments.

We had 14 days in mexico on our honeymoon in Dec 2004.

- 5 in zihuatanejo
- 3 in mexcio city (wish we had a couple more) - teotihuacan definitely a must do - hard going climbing to the top at the altitude - we really notice the difference once we got to Merida and did Uxmal!), the history museum was amazing too (and air-conditioned!)
- 2 in merida (Uxmal were great ruins to visit - we almost preferred them to Chichen Itza)
- 1 day driving (bus) Merida - CI (had about 6 hours there) - Cancun (then on to Playa del Carmen - got there abut 10pm!)
- 3 in Playa Del Carmen


We went back to Cancun on our way to Cuba in Sept 2008.
- Cancun is pointless (but cheap for what it is) - go to somewhere else or stay in Australia or SE Asia and go to a resort there if resort/beach what you want. it's not really Mexico, its really an American stereotype of Mexico!
- Playa del Carmen had REALLY developed in between ou visits (we did a day trip to check it out whilst waiting for flights to cuba to reopen - the outdoor pedestrian mall with local stores was now plagued with gloabl chains (Benetton etc!)
- Cuba is amazing and 5 days aren't enough - we had 6 (lost effectively 2 due to cyclone delaying our arrival - hence the stop in Cancun!). We managed 2 days in Havana, then a tour that took in Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spiritis and Santa Clara (Che Guevara mausoleum).

Happy to expand further if it helps.

Thanks for taking the time to respond in great detail - appreciate it!

Your 2004 itinerary is a close match. Unfortunately Zihuatanejo is located in the "reconsider your need to travel" area these days.... looks like a beautiful place.

Agree with your view of Cancun. Came up with a compromise by staying at Punta Maroma ... on the coast 20km north of Playa del Carmen. Cuba will have to wait until next time...

Just chiming in with one further suggestion I don't think has been made in the comments - Guanajuato, which you could cover in a da and a night out of Mexico City, and is truly a beautiful town to explore on foot. If you make it there don't miss the mummy museum, one of the strangest places I've seen!

Cheers.

That is definitely on the must visit list. It's one of the reasons we've allocated 5 nights at San Miguel de Allende .... it's around 80km away.

 

[amaroo]

Just a few comments......
Can swim with whale sharks if you're there at the right time of year (we did it during September, 2013). but it's a great experience. They are massive and you can get close enough to touch them. Boats leave from Isla Mujures, not far from CUN. Lots of boats converge on the area so it can be crowded plus there is often quite a swell so seasickness can be a problem. It helps to make sure you book a newer, faster boat - the slower ones roll around in the swell more and exacerbate the sickness.

The ruins at Chichen Itza are great and there are large open areas where you can stand back and appreciate the scale of them but there can be lots of tourists; plus the obligatory souvenir sellers. Admission to the ruins included lunch at the restaurant run by the locals. It was unexpectedly good - multiple food choices (BBQ'd fish and meat etc etc.) of good quality. We self-drove (180km from CUN) and the freeway is one of the most boring drives you could imagine - it's a divided road but the trees are very tall either side so you get to see virtually nothing at all for the whole trip. On the way back we took the alternate route through Valladolid (?) and boy do you get to see how the other half live on that road! Lots of poverty and squalid living conditions. Watch out for the speed humps too - they are everywhere and not painted so you can be airborne before you even know they are there.

I would definitely recommend a swim in a cenote while you're near Chichen Itza. It's a unique experience to go swimming in a hole deep underground. They had good change room facilities and were well organised too.

CUN is just a row of hotels and not very interesting (the tourist markets are cr^p). Playa Del Carmen is much nicer but, as someone else mentioned, it is becoming a bit too commecialised but very clean and good restaurants.

Tulum wasn't very interesting compared to Chichen Itza and on a much smaller scale but I guess if you travel all that way it's sensible to take a look - plus the views over the very blue water are worth a few pics.

As a general comment I'd be wary of getting too far off the main tourist routes if you are self driving. We never actually felt at risk but you definitely get a sense that lawlessness is part and parcel of the place - police always remain in groups (for their own protection?) and many carry machine guns. Even when you see routine car searches one or two always stand back with a machine guns ready.

Great information in your post - thanks!

Definitely going to have a swim at Tulum and a few of the cenote. Having read-up, it looks like a good idea to take your togs with you at all times.

We plan to drive from Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende / area ... Merida to Campeche / area .... Merida to Chichen Itza .... around the coast at Playa del Carmen. So nothing to adventurous.

 

[EestiTiger]

For Tikal, you will have the option of doing a tour *very* early to see the sunrise. It costs more to enter the park for that, since it's before the standard opening time.

I learned the hard way that you should check the time of year before going on a sunrise tour, since for 75% of the year it's too foggy to see the sunrise, and the only advantage left is hearing some howler monkeys wake up. You'll probably be there a few weeks after the time of year I was, so there is a fair chance that it would be for you too. Going early is still probably a good idea, to avoid the heat (and some of the crowds) but skipping sunrise would save you money and a 2am departure from Flores/Santa Elena.

I visited Tikal with a couple of friends a few years back. They both did the 'early' morning sunrise thing, whilst I slept off a heavy night. When they, and the tourist hordes, arrived back at the resort for breakfast, I headed into the park by myself. I climbed to the top of some sort of flat topped astrological pyramid and had the place to myself. Just me in the jungle, on an ancient monument, looking out over the trees and listening to the jungle come alive. It was absolutely one of the best travel experiences of my life! All thanks to a hangover

By comparison, my friends were all crammed onto some other temple with a heap of other people. Not quite the same

 

[LadyC]

We were there in September and stayed in a hostel just outside of Tikal. We didn't go for sunrise but were there in the morning as it warmed up during the day. I don't recall there being lots of tourists - nowhere near how many were at Chichen Itza. But Tikal will always feel less crowded because of its layout. It was an amazing place.

 

[amaroo]

Update .... for those interested or planning a similar trip. Big shout to the members who provided advice and experiences - cheers!

A month down the track we've fiddled, tweaked, and have now settled on a final itinerary. Flights and accommodation booked - mostly flexible but there are a few locked in with either hefty deposits or non-flex conditions.

This has been one of the more challenging trips to organise and it's taken an awful lot of time to research, review and decide. All up we're visiting 4 countries (3 new ones) taking 16 flights (9 within Mexico, Belize and Guatemala), 3 hire cars spread throughout Mexico (Yucatan, Campeche, and Guanajuato). All up it's 12 hotels for a total 34 nights (not including the nights we're flying).

The itinerary will see us visiting at least 11 major ruins, has plenty of jungle & beach time in Mexico, Belize and Guatemala, 4 night Xmas stay in a Unesco listed town followed by a couple of city stays in Mexico City and NYC.



Arrive Dallas - one night stay to get over the F flight from SYD

3 nights Tulum - Tulum, Coba, Ek Balam

fly to Guatemala via Belize

3 nights Lake Paten Itza (Guatemala) - Tikal, Uxacutun

3 nights Blancaneaux (Belize) - Caracol, ATM

3 nights Placencia - (Belize) - chill-out

fly to Merida

2 nights Campeche - Walled City, Edzna

2 nights Yucatan - Uxmal, Celeste (pink flamingos)

2 nights Merida - Chichen Itza

fly to Guanajuato

4 nights San Miguel de Allende - chill time over Xmas

fly to Palenque

2 nights Palenque - Palenque

fly to Mexico City

5 nights MC - Teotihuacan

Finished off with 4 nights in New York.

 

[LadyC]

Sounds like a great (and very busy) trip. Hopefully you will be writing a TR for this one?

 

[amaroo]

Sounds like a great (and very busy) trip. Hopefully you will be writing a TR for this one?

That's the intention .... fingers crossed the old app still has a pulse!

We tried to keep to a minimum of three nights at all hotels. The three x 2 nights (Campeche, Yucatan, Merida) are 3 Haciendas very close together, we'll be travelling by car - so very easy pace. Palenque is the exception to the rule .... not planning on going back so we decided to squeeze this one... here's why!

 

[LadyC]

I visited Palenque too. Not sure why but Uxmal and Tikal were the stand outs for me. I do recall eating some tasty pupusas in Palenque. Some really tasty street food in Mexico in general. The salsa is so fresh - yum!

Are you going to try and visit somewhere like Quintonil or Pujol in Mexico City?

 

[straitman]

amaroo,

My daughter and family are heading to Mexico next week. Not sure if your paths cross but she/they can be found on No Set Address. They are currently housesitting their way around the world and have now been on the road for about 14 months.

 

[amaroo]

I visited Palenque too. Not sure why but Uxmal and Tikal were the stand outs for me. I do recall eating some tasty pupusas in Palenque. Some really tasty street food in Mexico in general. The salsa is so fresh - yum!

Palenque is a little bit of a PITA to squeeze in, but we're keen to tick if off. Look forward to comparing Ruins with you.

you going to try and visit somewhere like Quintonil or Pujol in Mexico City?

Haven't set our attention to this part of the trip - yet. They both look the goods - will need to start making some bookings...

amaroo,

My daughter and family are heading to Mexico next week. Not sure if your paths cross but she/they can be found on No Set Address. They are currently housesitting their way around the world and have now been on the road for about 14 months.

WOW! Now that is an adventure. Looks like they are living the dream ... what a terrific experience for the kids - massive commitment! Looks like they're having tons of fun!

We're going to Mexico late this year (xmas holidays).

 

[amaroo]

Are you going to try and visit somewhere like Quintonil or Pujol in Mexico City?

Came in at 20 & 22 for this year's 50 World's Best Restaurants 1-50 The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants

Had a gander this morning and both are located under 8 minute walk from our hotel Have sent a request for the concierge to book both.

The year is looking good! We ate at #28 Nahm in January, have a booking for #7 Gaggan in August, and will try at least one of three listed NYC restaurants in January.

 

[LadyC]

Great to see a global spread of restaurants on the list. Hopefully you will have luck in getting a booking. Will you try for eleven madison avenue?

Not sure if this would be of interest to you but maybe have a look at the Netflix series called Chef's table?

Unfortunately our dining consists mainly of bistro style now there is a toddler in the mix. Doing all my research for our Europe trip atm.

 

[amaroo]

Great to see a global spread of restaurants on the list. Hopefully you will have luck in getting a booking. Will you try for eleven madison avenue?

Not sure if this would be of interest to you but maybe have a look at the Netflix series called Chef's table?

Unfortunately our dining consists mainly of bistro style now there is a toddler in the mix. Doing all my research for our Europe trip atm.

1. Eleven Madison, maybe. Just had a look at the menu, I'm not sure the kids can endure a 3hr, 11 course meal .... of course the US$295 a head (no drinks) doesn't come into it I think the kids can buy their own meal here.

2. Chef's table, I've checked that out - a friend who works at The Pen BKK gave me the tip. Excellent!

3. Babies, toddlers, kids, been there, done that. Our youngest is 13 and I reckon 12 is a good age to ramp up the fine dining.

 

[amaroo]

Looks like we picked a decent spot to spend Xmas this year

http://time.com/4852153/best-city-to-visit-san-miguel-mexico/

 

[karen blancfield]

Looks like we picked a decent spot to spend Xmas this year

San Miguel De Allende Is Travel + Leisure's Best City | Time.com

We had Xmas there in a gorgeous apartment 18 months ago and we all loved the town. Couldn't fault it. We caught a bus there from Mexico City but decided it was about the same price for the 4 adults to hire a driver and car for the return journey straight back to airport in Mexico City. In San Mig, go to the Rosewood Hotel rooftop bar for a drink. It's lovely!

You have a fabulous holiday planned. We've been to Merida twice, prior to San Mig and also liked Campeche, though quieter and smaller than both those other two towns. So much to see and you will love it! Look forward to reading about it afterwards.

Oh and sitting on the verandah alone early in the morning listening to the jungle come alive at Tikal, was a real highlight for me.

 

[oh_lol]

Did you end up eating at Quintonil or Pujol? Ate at both earlier in the year and wasn't impressed. Very, very, very disappointed with Pujol, even after eating at Cosme which was great.
I also ate at Biko, which was fantastic. It was ranked top 50 in the world 2 years ago.

 

[amaroo]

We had Xmas there in a gorgeous apartment 18 months ago and we all loved the town. Couldn't fault it. We caught a bus there from Mexico City but decided it was about the same price for the 4 adults to hire a driver and car for the return journey straight back to airport in Mexico City. In San Mig, go to the Rosewood Hotel rooftop bar for a drink. It's lovely!

You have a fabulous holiday planned. We've been to Merida twice, prior to San Mig and also liked Campeche, though quieter and smaller than both those other two towns. So much to see and you will love it! Look forward to reading about it afterwards.

Oh and sitting on the verandah alone early in the morning listening to the jungle come alive at Tikal, was a real highlight for me.

Pretty sure it was your post on another thread that pricked my interest in San Mig. We're actually staying at the Rosewood Hotel, very lucky I booked back in March.... availability dried up around May. Very popular place around Xmas!

I'll definitely do a trip Report ... not many Mexico / Central America reports on AFF.

Did you end up eating at Quintonil or Pujol? Ate at both earlier in the year and wasn't impressed. Very, very, very disappointed with Pujol, even after eating at Cosme which was great.
I also ate at Biko, which was fantastic. It was ranked top 50 in the world 2 years ago.

Not yet, the trip isn't until Dec/Jan this year. Have asked the hotel concierge to book... will take a look at the other places you mentioned - cheers

 

[karen blancfield]

Pretty sure it was your post on another thread that pricked my interest in San Mig. We're actually staying at the Rosewood Hotel, very lucky I booked back in March.... availability dried up around May. Very popular place around Xmas!

I'll definitely do a trip Report ... not many Mexico / Central America reports on AFF.

Wow .... staying at Rosewood will be terrific! The grounds are beautiful, reminded me of hotel grounds in Bali. And the gin and tonic at rooftop bar, very fancy .... a sprig of herb frozen into an ice block the length of the glass etc.... have another one for me! Pleased the info helped you find the spot. That's why this is a great site!