Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cats!!!

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Ok World Class Attraction No1 = You guessed it Table Mountain

We thought about hiking to the top as it would have been good training for our Nepalise Trek in December, but it would have made the day a bit to rushed.

So we settled for taking the Cable Car to the top....and I am very glad that we got up earlier and arrived not long after it started running as when we came down several hours later the queues were massive. Once up top there are a number of walking trails and so one can hike for minutes, or hours.

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Even the Rock Dassie's were taking in the views..

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And great views they were too in every direction..

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And now for World Class Attraction No2 .....
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

World Class Attraction No2 .

This week was to be different than our other five weeks in Africa., and key to this was it being a food and wine week for us.

In researching what restaraunts to try one soon struck my fancy. At the time of my research it was rated No 48 in the world, but on checking the new list on my retur I see it has moved down to No 28.

On another list for just South Africa it was list as No 1. Our guide of the wine tour stated it was the best restaurant in all of Africa.

We had hoped to book in for dinner, but on checking in April for our August visit I was informed that Dinner was booked out till November on each and every night!!!

Fortunately I was able to secure a lunch booking for two and this then shaped our schedule for our week in the Cape Town Region.

And No 28 is...

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We had booked in for the Tasting Menu when we originally booked, and at the restaraunt were advised that in the near future that this would be the only option. Though having said that, with a number of the courses you hada choice of two.

We had booked to arrive at the later end of when you could start to maximise our time at Table Mountain in the moring, and so we arrived with healthy appetites.

On entering one was struck with the buzz and energy of the restaurant. It is a surprising small single floor restaraunt with the kitchen running full length of the dining room, almost like a stage for us the dining audience.

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So we took our seats....

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Let the show begin...
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

"The Program"

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Naturally we went for the wine pairing again.


Three breads to start...including the one at left made with red onion and bacon.

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Two appertisers to start and this one was a delicous tuna with a smokey flavour.

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Vegetables with a parsley sauce

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We went with the matched wines once again so that we could make the most of the food whilst also getting to try a cross section of some of South Africa's better wines.

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The pickled fish was superb with many of the flavours reminscent of vietnames cuisine

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My favourite dish was the bbq langoustine (scampi) which had a strong japanese influence.

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The Linefish

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My wife's favourite was the lamb with matched pinot noir

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Which was a symphony of flavours on the one plate...a Tasting Menu within a Tasting Menu.

Lamb to the left...veal tongue to the right and sweetmeats in the centre.

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

The Finale

And not just one plated dessert but two! The first was called "Tropical" was actually a montage of half a dozen delicous desserts including meringue, turkish delight, sorbet, ice cream and more!
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And the second dessert was also a selection of different desserts.

The hero of this was the nut and caramel crusted hot sponge cake at the right.

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The degree of detail and thought about everything was very evident and just amazing at The Test Kitchen.

Coffee and Tea to vollow were not just coffee and tea. But a visual treat before one even tasted them.

Cappuccino for me and lemon Rooibos Tea for Karlene. I just love that cast iron tea pot.


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So there you have it. Did it live up to all the hype, and our expectations? My God YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

We both love to explore cities on foot and so for our last full day in Cape Town we spent it exploring the city.

We took in two "Free walking Tours" (you pay by tipping what you think it is worth at the end) as we have had great success with these in many cities around the world. One in the late morning, and one after lunch. We meshed these in with our own explorations including a "beer" stop.

Chatting with a local.

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Now a botanical garden, but originallyan orchard to re-supply the Duthch Trading Ships.

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A 400 year old pear tree from the time of first white settlement

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Apartheid..

Pick your bench outside the former classification centre where they determined which of the eight racial categories that a person fitted into.

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While some prefer the flash new V&A Waterfront Precinct we muc preferred the old city centre.


Locals busking african style..

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And whatever the boys can do, the girls have to outdo them!

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Table Mountain and the houses of Bo Kaap

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Just caught up. Great TR :) .
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Well after sampling just some of what Cape Town offers, I can now appreciate why everyone that I know that has been there raves about the region. Simply fabulous!

Goodbye Cape Town...and back in the air.

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On board SA 8651 to SKZ (Skukuza) on a BAe Avro RJ85 .
Definitely on the cosy side, and if your cabin bag is on the larger side it goes in the hold.

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SKZ is actually with the Kruger National park and so it saved a lot of driving.

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Staright off the plan ata pretty airport and hire car.

And on hour drive from SKZ to Lower Sabie Rest Camp whe had a nice game drive spotting giraffe, buffalo, hippos, elephant, monkeys and much more including three lionesses...and this was just to commute to our accommdodation :) Absolutely no impala though (In joke for anyone that has been to southern africa!!).

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Look closely to spot 3 female lions in the clearing.

Predators are often hard to spot, and often missed by many people. Their coloring is a good camouflage, and they are often during the day just lazing about as in this shot.

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So this drive was a nice little entree for the upcoming feast that is Kruger National Park.

We chose to stay at Lower Sabie Rest Camp as it is well known for the abundant wildlife in the are in both number and diversity, and that is how it proved to be. By staying in the Rest Camp booked through SANParks it is very economical, as are the hire car rates from AVIS.

You can top this up with game drives/ walks that the Rangers do for a small fee.

If you want to see wildlife in the wild and could only could do one area in South Africa (particularly if you were limited for funds) then a stay at Lower Sabie Rest Camp with a rental car will deliver a HUGE amount of bang for your buck, and satisfaction for your memories.
 
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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Super jealous of the Test Kitchen photos. We had a reservation there which I secured 6 months out and we missed it as the manager at our boutique hotel basically told me it was the following night and I forgot to double check and I realised too late :(

We had an awesome meal at Tasting Room in Franschhoek on the same trip though.
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Game Spotting In Kruger


Firstly Kruger National Park is HUGE, and you cannot cover it in just the one visit unless you are going to make ita long, long visit. See HERE.

We chose to spend t

* 2 nights at Olifants in one of the cliff edge cabins (best views in Kruger!)
* 2 nights in Lower Sabie
* Elephant Plains (next to Kruger NP) in the Sabi Sabi area to taste a private establishement
* We then finished with 1 night in Blyde River Canyon for the views, but the 5 previous nights were:

A few observations

All in all if you want animal spotting then Lower Sabie is a great camp. It has all the facilities and the river adjacent to it has many on dispaly. From my cabin and/or the riverfront restaraunt in the river we watched giraffe, hippos, crocodiles, elephants, buffalo, zebra and others.

On drives we saw two mating lions within 5m of us!!!!...and another pride of 6 lions the next day, rhinos on 6 occassions right next to road(note this was on the less travelled gravel roads and not the busier sealed roads) and a wide diversity of animals. Late in the day seemed to have a lot more animal activity than the early morning when we were there.

If you can only visit one rest camp then I would strongly recommend Lower Sabie.

Olifants We had booked a cliff edge cabin and the views were to die for. You can also see the view from the restaurant and so an option is to lunch there (note it is a long, long way at 50kmphr from Lower Sabie).

However game was noticeably thin on the ground near Olifants. I would therefore not make it your only rest camp.
One highlight though was watching from my balcony through my binoculars 6 hyena with a fresh impala kill.

Satara
I did not stay there, but we used it as a tea/ toilet stop. It has a smaller, but adequate, restaurant with an artificial waterhole to attract game (only impala when we were there). It is more basic and less pretty camp than the other two.

However the Satara Rest Camp is located in and near more of an open plains area than the other two camps. This attracts more Zebra and we also saw Wildebeest which we did not see further south.

However most people want to see the big cats, and there was a lot of cat activity reported in the Satara Region. The two days we called in the game spotting boards recorded numerous sigthings of lions, cheetahs and leopards. The surrounding open plains full of game is most likely why, and the open plains making it easier to spot activity.

We spotted 3 male lions within 10m of the road choping on a Kudu with 3 jackals circling them. We also spotted a leopard in a tree, but say 30m away.

If I went back I would use Satara Rest Camp for a night or two due the cat activity.


The Big 5. Driving from Lower Sabie to Oilfants, when we swapped camps, we spotted the Big 5 in the course of our half-day drive. This included watching 6 lions hunt (unsuccessfully) about half-way between Satara and Olifants. It made for a great sight as the herd of animals that they were attempting to encircle included buffalo, 3 rhinos, zebras, kudu and impala!


Elephants Plains was nice for a change, a contrast and a touch of luxury. But while we did see a leoprad at only 5m away, the number of animals was noticeably a lot thinner on the ground than at Lower Sabie.

If I return to the region I would just stay at the SANPARK rest camps. But then again I am mainly an independent traveller by nature.


With Kruger there is a vast network of roads to spot game from. You are not allowed to go off-road to spot game. There are many sealed roads, and you do not have to leave them to see game. However there is alsoa vast network of gravel roads that get lest traffic than the sealed roads and provide I thinka better chance to see some of the shier animals and to also gain a more personal experience as it can often be just you (in you vehicle) and the game you are watching. On the sealed roads if there is a cat there will invariably be a posse of cards gathered as well. The pro is that can make it easier to find the cats or more unusual animals.

So on our morning we soon left the sealed road in favour of exploring along a less travelled gravel road. With a few minutes I spotted a large rhino relaxing right next to the road. Rhinos tend to be shier and while seen on the busier roads, the gravel ones offer a better chance of getting close to them.

You will note that his ear is directed right towards us (they can rotate them around). Their eysight is very poor, and they rely instead on their excellent hearing and sense of smell.

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He was soon checking us out, and then after about ten minutes he wandered of into the scrub.


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Mongoose

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And then about 10 minutes on we notice amale and female lion immediately next to the road.

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With cats one can never tell what they were going to to do. Particularly in the middle of the day they can often just basically sit or lie around doing very little.

But this was a male and female pair, and we could also here several other lions roaring in the distnace.

After about 15 minutes they stood up, walking a very short distance and then proceeded to mate in front of us!

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

At dusk we watched a group of six lionesses. Most likely these were part of the same pride as the two mating lions that we had seen earlier that day.

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The sixth..


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General shots of Kruger.

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While this shot was taken ata rest camp, these beautiful flowers were growing wild.
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Yellow-billed Hornbill

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The view just south of Satara Rest Camp
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Near Olifants
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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

On the drive from Lower Sabie to Olifants just north of Satara we were fortunate to watch a pride of six lions hunting. Unfortunately for for them, but fortunately for their prey, they were unsuccessful. The prey consisted ofa mixed herd of various antelopes, buffalo and even a number of rhinos includinga baby rhino.

Three of the lions stayed in place (you can see some in the shade of the small tree) while three more attempted to try and outflank the prey to drive them back to the waiting lions. On this occassion they gave up as the various herbivores were too alert for them.

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Then a short distance further on we spotted a leopard in a tree, completing our sighting of all of the Big 5 in one drive.
So who needs a guide ;)

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Some harder to spot wildlife between Satara and Olifants.

The very small Steenbook.

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An African Scops Owl

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Black Backed Jackal. One of a pair.

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Our cliff-edge bungalow at Olifants Rest Camp had arguably the best view in Kruger.

Made all the better by the glass of crisp South African Sauvignon Blanc. Now this is how to spot wildlife!!!!

One of the sights I was treated to from our balcony was watching a pack of six hyena devour a fresh kill.

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The bungalow had an outdoor kitchen, and with a view like this why would you want to cook indoors?

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Our bungalow and rental car.

With the car we went for a Toyota Avanza as it offered a higher off the ground viewing height than standard cars, without costing that much more to rent. Certainly much cheaper than a 4WD which is not required in Kruger.

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Sunset at Olifants.

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And with the sun well down and dinner nicely consumed, why not a taste of Africa by sampling the local liqueur- Amarula.

It is the citrus like flavoured fruit of the Murala Tree that elephants lust after and will see them break into camps and vehicles if the scent an orange.

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Near Olifants..

Waterbuck

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Ostriches

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Blue Wildebesst. We had not sighted these near Lower Sabie, but on our seconda day at Olifants they were sufddenly in great numbers south of Olifants.


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Dead giraffe.....mainly just the skin and bones are left

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

I'm a Gary Larsen cartoon fan; leopards lolling in trees always make me chuckle ;):).
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Off to Elephant Plains....and our last game drive in Kruger on the way out of the park.

Lots to see as usual in this fabulous park.

Three male lions with a fresh kudu kill, with three jackals circling waiting for their chance at the carcass. All within metres of the road.

You can see the kudu caracass towards the right.

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The Black-backed Jackals circling waiting for their chance, but equally knowing that they cannot get too close to the lions. Not how like all predators here that he blends in so well with his surroundings.

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Two of the lions move away from the kudu, but one remains to guard it. The jackal moves in close, but with a dismissive glare from the lion the jackal knows that his hunger must wait for a little longer yet.

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Elephant Plains. Our first private lodge where we stayed in a room rather than camped, and the first also that was on its own game reserve, rather than making use of a national park.

The rooms and main buildings were certainly all bigger and more luxurious.

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And it had a number of traditions from dining under the stars in the round, being drummed to dinner, sherry after the evening game drive and the like.

When you stay at a private lodge you are gaining a lot more than just the daily game drives, but then you are also certainly paying for the "full" experience.

If you do not value all the "bells & whistles" then you may find just making use of public game parks more than sufficient.

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A private reserve however also does offer some advantage over the national parks:
* Less vehicles. You only have vehicles from your lodge, or several lodges if they share territories. So you do not get the mad gatherings that can arise sometimes in Kruger.
* That the vehicles can go off-raod if the occassion merits it. In a national park you MUST stick to the designated roads and tracks (walking tours are an exception).

At Elephant Plains this meant for example getting up close and personal witha female leopard, with an injured foot. She was probably 40m from the nearest track, whereas our guide took us right next to her.

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She had a cub nearby in her den. But the rules to be followed were that leopard cub/s could not be viewed, or even approached, if the mother was not with them as this was a wild reserve.

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Breastfeeding Elephants

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Rhino

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Grey-billed Hornbill

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and after dark a White-tailed Mongoose


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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Really enjoyed the report and pics (goodness knows how good they would have been with your best camera). Brings back memories of honeymoon in Kenya and rugby tour to Zimbabwe (2 separate trips ;)). Trying to make a return visit but not so easy with 4 children now.
 
Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

Sundowners, an african institution....and Elephant Plains was no different.

Wherever we went on our african odyssey, gathering for a drink and a chat as the sun went down was a favourite pastime

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Re: Nairobi to Cape Town & Kruger too: Plains, Wines and Automobiles (4WD) & yes Cat

The Last Chapter: Blyde River Canyon

Our african odyssesy had many different chapters, many different adventures, many different tastes, sights and sounds and people too.....but this is the last chapter of what had been a truly great trip, but it like each of our other chapters it was special.

Our last night was spent at Westlodge B&B in Graskop, and it was to be the base for our last 24hours of exploration in South Africa of the Blyde River Canyon Region.
And what a special B&B it was. Of all the B&Bs we have stayed at over the years it was the most memorable. Many little things down well to add up to an impressive whole. But the biggest reason was the mother and son team (Rezne and David) that run it. Both larger than life characters that were full of warmth, almost like we had pulled in the abode of a long lost friends rather than just a B&B.

Being our last night in africa we booked one of their larger suites., complete witha claw foot bath built for two.

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One of the nice little touches was the complimentary carafe of sherry that was in our room. And after an afternoon of walking, one that we enjoyed while soaking in a hot bath. The fresh made rusks were tastey as well.

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We also bookead three course dinner at the B&B. I must admit that I had initially down this as it was easy. But it turned out to be a great decision. Rezne and David as our hosts made it not just food, but an occassion. And the food was very good.

And of course it was also an opportunity to say farwell to a South Afican friend....

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So we spent the evening with our new dear friend Pinotage.
 
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