Nordic Skies and Skis

[Captain Halliday]

Checking Aurora viewing spots

Arriving in Rovaneimi around noon, the short days in the far north became apparent as it already felt light twilight.



Rovaneimi is a 90 minute flight north of Helsinki.



The town itself lies just outside the arctic circle, though the airport, ten minutes drive north of town is technically in the arctic.



After checking in to our unremarkable self contained apartment it was time to scout viewing spots for the Northern lights.

We set off in the hire car and went first to a resort north of town situated on a lake.

It was an open setting and had indications that everyone, not just resort guests, were welcome to look for the lights.

We would return later.

This looked out of place:



Next we drove back to town to check out a potential viewing site by the river.

We’d been warned it wasn’t the best spot due to light pollution from the city, but was very conveniently located.

It also had good clear views to the North.



And we ended up going for a walk along the river which was very pretty.



It was now well past 3pm and almost dark, so we headed to a supermarket for supplies.

We’d been warned that fresh food, and food generally was expensive in the Nordic regions.

AUD5.09 for a taste of home:



As a more accurate comparison, we bought enough food for two dinners and breakfast for the week, which cost about the same as a week’s worth of groceries at home.

After battling a poorly equipped and unfamiliar kitchen to make something resembling a meal, we had a rest before heading on the first of five nights searching for the Northern Lights.

 

[craven morehead]

Does Mrs H not help out with photographs of food?

This could assist in regaining points lost playing GTG

 

[Captain Halliday]

Aurora search, night 1

Around 9pm we set off for the resort we visited earlier in the day beside Olkkajarvi lake.

There were a couple of coaches with tourists arriving for snow mobile or huski sled tours.

With a disrupted body clock from the travel, Miss H was less than enthusiastic about several hours in the cold.

So I took one for the team and left Mrs H and Miss H huddled up in the warmth of the car.

The path from the resort to the lake was icy and dark.

A bright digital display near the reception informed me it was minus-11 degrees.

I wondered if that was also the number of minutes before I froze to death.

The wind sounded icy as it hissed through the surrounding trees.

Alone in the dark my mind began to wander.

What if I run into a grizzly bear?

Do they hang around the resort looking for food?

In the darkness my ears were like radar, picking up any sound.

I couldn’t tell if the chill up my spine was the fear, the cold, or both.

It was then that Mrs H wound down the car window and asked, “Are you just going to stand there?”

And so I set off to walk the 200 metres or so to the lake’s edge.

From there I could see a miner’s lamp in the distance and just make out a group of people on the frozen lake.

The sky above was crystal clear.

Radiant stars sparkled like fairy lights.

But there was no aurora.

After a few minutes waiting, hoping, urging the sky to light up, I headed back to the car to warm up.

I reported my findings and the family was disappointed, but not surprised.

We stayed in the car for almost an hour, listening to a radio station we could only partly understand and eating enough chocolate to survive three winters.

Extreme boredom set in and I suggested we all walk to the lake.

The family agreed and we arrived to discover the guide who was previously with the group on the lake had started a fire.

She invited us to warm up and for about the next hour she happily let us sit with her group here...



The guide told her group, and us, the history of the area, stories of tourism booms and busts, and offered tips on where and when to spot the aurora.

Every few minutes someone would slip outside to check if there was any aurora activity.

We met a couple of guys from Perth and chatted with others in the tour group.

As the guide brewed tea for her group and grilled them sausages, I pondered the fact that we’d paid nothing for the experience and the only thing the tourist got for their AUD90 that we didn’t was the tea and sausages.

And none of us saw the Aurora.

I was disappointed, but with four nights to go, remained optimistic.

 

[drron]

Well does MrsH now get a point because you were way to early to get to the lake and she was sensible enough to stay in a warm car?

 

[Captain Halliday]

Well does MrsH now get a point because you were way to early to get to the lake and she was sensible enough to stay in a warm car?

Not at all. Her plan to remain in the car had a major flaw.

If the aurora had appeared, there was no way I was going to risk missing it by running back through deep snow to alert her.

Not until I’d had a good look.

 

[Captain Halliday]

The long twilight

The next morning we woke to a fresh dump of snow.

Miss H pointed out that some of the snowflakes on the windows of the hire car had been very well preserved.

This is from an iPhone, and I imagine the detail would be quite spectacular with a good camera.



We decided to spend the day at Ounasvaara which is a mountain with hiking, skiing and biking trail that’s just across the river from Rovaniemi CBD.

You could walk there in around half an hour, but we drove and it took less than five minutes.

It was incredibly beautiful on a clear day.



The midday sun was barely above the horizon and there the vivid yellow and orange colours across the snow covered trees.









It was incredible how turning 180 degrees made you feel like you’d been transported into an entirely new location.

This panoramic photo doesn’t do it justice, but does show the incredible colour range.





I could have spent hours here taking photos.

 

[Captain Halliday]

How to build a downhill ski run

There are two ski runs from the top of Ounasvaara mountain that take skiers almost the the edge of the frozen Kemijoki River - the longest river in Finland.





But what I wasn’t expecting on this trip was a lesson in how to make a downhill, competition ski run.

It seems remarkably difficult.

You can see here the existing starting gate and workers preparing for an upcoming competition.



First they spray water onto the ramp allowing it to freeze.

This process continues until they have a giant block of ice on the ramp.

It’s left for at least a week to ensure it’s frozen solid.

Workers then break it up into enormous chunks of ice - which is what they were doing when we visited.

But they do this wearing skis rather than boots.

One slip and they’re off down the hill.



The chunks of ice are then trampled until they’re close to level.

Again, using skis.



The workers then rely on a combination of natural snow and snow making to fill the gaps and create the skiing surface.



That ramp is at almost 45 degrees so the Santa Claus Ski Team sure has good balance.

This gives a good indication of the gradient.



The view from the top of the ski jump.



Ounasvaara was one of the real surprises on this trip.

We spent a nice day walking around and enjoying the scenery.

I don’t think my photos in the last two posts really convey just how beautiful the mountain is.

The paths are snowy but graded and accessible for most levels of ability.

Both walks we did were less than 1km return.

I’d highly recommend anyone who visits Rovaneimi set aside at least a couple of hours to visit this area.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Aurora search, night 2

For the second night of our Aurora search we returned to Olkkajarvi lake.

Setting off around 9pm, we drove a little further North this time and stopped at a public picnic area with fewer trees.

You could drive your car right to the edge of the lake which allowed Miss H to stay warm in the car.

There were also shelters with fire places.

And so we waited.

Cars came and went.

People took pictures of the darkness.

Just after 10pm our snacks ran out.

Again.

Tour busses arrived.

Their groups shuffled out onto the lake, then shuffled back again.

Tour busses departed.

Around 11pm the car park was full and I wondered if they all knew something we didn’t.

The Aurora activity was still showing as 2 out of 7 on all three Apps that I was relying on.

You need at least a 4 and preferably a 5 to see anything - or so they say.

But to keep the tourists coming, they also tell you the aurora could appear at any time.

Tourist scam anyone?

By midnight most people had given up.

The car park was empty except for our hire car and dark, suspicious looking panel van.

Mrs H insisted we lock the doors.

As I looked out the rear view mirror I thought I saw something move in the shadows.

Even in minus 11 degrees, a chill ran up my spine.

Without realising we both held our breath.

Then a dog cut across the beam of our headlights.

Mrs H jumped, bashing her knee on the glove compartment.

Yes, that knee!

Not long after the van started up and drove off.

We were alone in the dark and isolated car park.

For almost another hour we sat silently looking at the sky.

I hoped that with everyone gone the show might start.

But it didn’t.

Just after 1am we gave up.

All the way back into town I continued checking the rear view mirror just in case.

But there was nothing.

Three nights to go.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Aurora search, night 3

After a late night, we slept in.

The day’s activities included such exciting things as a supermarket visit and a short drive around the city area.

We stopped by the river where just a day earlier we’d seen skidoo’s on the ice.

After seeing parts of the river not yet frozen over, I wondered if the skidoos made it to their destination, or were now somewhere beneath the ice.





As the day wore on I continued to check the Aurora apps.

They continued to report the Aurora activity as either 1 or 2 out of 7.

The tour guide had warned the apps were unreliable and the Aurora might appear at any time.

Deep down I knew going out that night would be pointless.

But I wasn’t going to be put off, so we headed back to the lake around 9pm to stare out into the darkness.

The weather, the Finnish Radio, the snacks and the mood in the car were exactly the same as the previous two nights.

But what had changed was our patience.

After seven consecutive days of challenging our body clock and generally not getting enough sleep, we lasted only two hours.

A little before midnight we gave up, having seen nothing but tourists standing on a frozen lake and whispy cloud in the sky above.

Two nights to go.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Santa Village part 1

Day 4 in Rovaniemi and it was time to deliver on our promise to visit Santa’s home.

Besides the wonderful scenery, snow and skiing, Rovaniemi promotes itself as “the home of Santa”.

Just north of town you’ll find the Santa Village and the Santa Park.

It’s like the Gold Coast in the sense that Dreamworld and Movieworld are just down the road from each other.

Which one you choose is a matter of personal preference, but either way you’ll be poorer when you’re done.

Santa Park’s advantage is that it’s indoors.

The entry fee covers all the attractions.

Up the road at Santa Village, independent businesses operate within the precinct, but it’s a pay-as-you-go arrangement.

While indoors was appealing, we opted for the Santa Village as Miss H was keen for either a husky or reindeer ride.

After looking at the reindeer Miss H decided they were too slow.

So husky’s it was.

We paid and were ushered into a tent with a small fire.

The “lounge” offered warm berry juice and ginger nut biscuits.

Solid timber seats surrounded the fire.

And just like an airport lounge there was someone talking loudly on their mobile phone.

After about 40 minutes our flight, er, ride was called for boarding.


This is LCC fun for everyone and quite a novelty.



There is no business class.

The economy seats are rock hard.

They do not recline.

There are no storage compartments or charging points.

But wow... the in flight entertainment is spectacular.



It was a unique way to experience the snow covered pine forests.

In crisp, icy fresh air we sped between the trees.

The dogs rounded 30 degree corners with ease and our driver had to push hard on the opposing skid to prevent us tipping.

Note in this photo the dogs going left and our sled heading right...



Occasionally the dogs would kick up a little snow that would fly back and hit us.

It’s impossible to avoid the rocks and bumps.

Every bump the sled hit sent a shuddering vibration through my backside and up my spine.

After a 2.5km run I was pleased to have had the experience, but it’s certainly not a comfortable way to travel.



But worst of all there’s no status credits.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Santa Village Part 2

After the husky ride we walked back into the central part of the Santa Village.

As night fell and the lights came on and the village looked spectacular.



It was still very cold...



The village is on the arctic circle and the chain of blue lights above... along with a line on the ground indicate the circle.



Right in the centre of the village is Santa’s office.

Just inside the doors was a queue of around 8 people waiting to get in.

Terrific we though... not too busy.

Then one of the elves came out and unhooked the red velvet rope allowing us to enter.

We began winding our way through a decorated walkway...

Past the elves workshop and then into a large open area filled with 200 or more people.

An elf informed us that the wait to see Santa from this point would be another 45 minutes.

Mrs H wanted to abort.

Miss H wouldn’t have it.

I dabbled with the Switzerland approach... but after travelling for almost three days to be in the arctic circle, I was on Miss H’s side.

Never again would she be here at an age where she is a believer.

Mrs H was given the option to bail out and go to the bar.

To her great credit, she stayed.

And a little over an hour later, we had our 60 seconds with Santa.

But this guy was good.

We had not been pre-screened by anyone and were not wearing anything to give away that we are Aussie. In fact, I was wearing a kiwi t-shirt.

Santa picked up the accent straight away asking Miss H what part of Australia she is from.

When she replied “Brisbane”, He came back with “North or South of the river?”

Miss H answered with the name of our suburb.

“Oh I much prefer the Northside” replied Santa.

I’m guessing he’s an expat... how else would a bloke from Finland know which Brisbane suburbs are north and south.

I might just have been enough to keep the Christmas spirit alive in Miss H for one more year.

 

[kermatu]

Brilliant report. Thank you.

 

[Captain Halliday]

Aurora search, night 4

As our evening at the Santa Village wore on, the cloud and rain closed in.

After three long and unsuccessful nights sitting out in the cold this was a bad sign.

But the contrarian in me figured that behind the clouds the aurora would be going strong and all we needed was a break in the cloud.


The rest of the family just wanted a warm blanket and an early night.

We drove to the lake and though the rain had stopped, not a single star could be seen.

It was futile.

We went home to bed.

One night to go.

 

[drron]

The trouble is we are at the most unlikely time to see an Aurora.@025 is the go.
.

And just as likely to see it in Tassie.

Aurora Australis Tasmania

An Australia-based Group to celebrate, publicise, facilitate and encourage viewing, enjoyment, amateur photography of, and to answer questions about the Aurora Australis. All discussion should take...

www.facebook.com

Aurora Australis

يمكنك الاستمتاع بالفيديوهات والموسيقى التي تحبها وتحميل المحتوى الأصلي ومشاركته بكامله مع أصدقائك وأفراد عائلتك والعالم أجمع على YouTube.

www.youtube.com

 

[tgh]

I spent some of my youth out on the western plains of Victoria , and remember the occasional spectacular Aurora display.

 

[Captain Halliday]

The trouble is we are at the most unlikely time to see an Aurora.@025 is the go.
View attachment 161281.

And just as likely to see it in Tassie.

Aurora Australis Tasmania

An Australia-based Group to celebrate, publicise, facilitate and encourage viewing, enjoyment, amateur photography of, and to answer questions about the Aurora Australis. All discussion should take...

www.facebook.com

Aurora Australis

يمكنك الاستمتاع بالفيديوهات والموسيقى التي تحبها وتحميل المحتوى الأصلي ومشاركته بكامله مع أصدقائك وأفراد عائلتك والعالم أجمع على YouTube.

www.youtube.com

You could have told me that before I dropped 840k points and a bucket load of fuel fines.

 

[Bindibuys]

So who else is now long planning for Finland 2025?

 

[petercr]

I'd be aiming for 2024...

 

[Captain Halliday]

Aurora irony

On our final full day in Rovaniemi we slept in, then set off to visit the Arktikum (Museum).

It’s a terrific looking building.



There were terrific displays of Finnish heritage and I learnt that Rovaniemi developed as a town because it was midway between Helsinki and the Northern Finland Coast which made it a good halfway point for the rail line.

The Arktikum also had a special exhibition of Aurora photographs.

I walked the exhibit slowly taking in each spectacular picture.

The vivid green colours which blended into blue and yellow at times were amazing.

As I looked at each one, I found myself smiling at the irony of flying half way around the world to see the aurora, but only seeing photos that I could have looked up online.

After leaving the museum we headed back to the apartment for dinner and found ourselves behind this guy.



With almost every bit of the river frozen over I was tempted to follow him to see just where he planned to launch.

Throughout the day I had been checking the Aurora apps almost obsessively.

And the results were good.

They predicted Aurora activity of 4 or 5 out of 7 in the early hours of the morning.

A family meeting was called and it was decided that we’d go early to bed and set off around 1am.

So we set an alarm and headed to bed full of optimism.

 

[LadyC]

Really enjoying the report so far and hoping you see the Aurora (although seems unlikely). The husky ride sounds great. How old is MissH? I am wondering if this is something we could do with MasterC next year when he would be almost 7.