Of black maned lions and rampaging hippos

[bPeteb]

Etosha National Park Etosha National Park is huge, over 22,000 square km. There are multiple lodges outside the park like ours, and six campgrounds/lodges inside. You could spend days here driving the multiple routes through the park.

We had a full day game drive included in our itinerary. Eddie was our excellent guide. It was cold enough for my Inca Trail snood to come out of retirement and to wear my light puffer and make use of the offered blanket for my legs (in shorts of course).



Etosha Village is 2km from the park gates and the action started within five minutes of going through the gates. Black rhino!



giraffe

 

[bPeteb]

then honey badger!!! Digging up and eating a scorpion as per Eddie


then another rhino


Through the next ‘gate’ at the first of the campgrounds/lodges Okaukuejo Camp.


No idea how Eddie spotted it but there were some hyenas way off in the distance, with most likely a springbok that had been left by a lion. The hyenas were being tormented by jackals.

It’s amazing what a bit of editing can do to blurry photos.


Eddie used the African telephoto a few times. An android, or older iPhone, held against a pair of binoculars. Here’s his attempt with Al’s Samsung S24 Ultra v the earlier photos with Sony.


I forgot to mention that the Sony RX10 had pretty much died after the ride into Swamp Stop. We had foolishly left it on the floor of the truck, just in its case, for the whole of the long and torturous ride. Before that it had been well cushioned in a backpack. It would switch on but nothing after that. I googled factory reset and tried that but no luck.

When we got to Etosha, and Bruce and Jenny were outside, we tried it again and on it came. It was a bit hit and miss initially but it seemed to return to full function later that day at Etosha. We've taken some amazing pictures with it so far and we would have been very sad to lose its telephoto capabilities. The Samsung just isn’t as good.

 

[bPeteb]

Eddie first took us to the first of a number of waterholes. We saw some spring fed but this was one of a couple, three maybe, that were solar bore fed (just like at Mosi Oa Tunya NP).


Eddie was looking at these two through his binocs and let us know these two were about to, and did, get it on


gazillions of springbok


the first of many ostriches. Females were rarely seen as they would be sitting on their eggs during the day

 

[bPeteb]

and back to rhino


Eddie drove us down to the edge of the giant pan from which Etosha got it's name. etosha means Great White Place. Out in the distance a lone ostrich


to another waterhole, this time I think spring fed. Lots of gnu, some jackals being jackals, and another couple of ostriches

 

[bPeteb]

a ??


another waterhole, this time definitely spring fed. A long line of zebra wandered to the water, had a drink then wandered away



Eddie received advice that some elephant were on their way so we waited, quite a while, but it was worth it

 

[bPeteb]

Lunch (own expense) at Halali Camp

Very ordinary but we bought large beers so all was not lost


the viewings got less frequent as the day got hotter but still more giraffe, zebra, oryx and elephants


sociable weaver nest

back to Etosha Village where we were greated by a giant kudu just wandering around


the Olympics was on so we sat on watched while downing some icy ales

 

[bPeteb]

I had a quick swim in the yet again very cold pool. Despite the heat of the days, the ppols were never anything than icy, I suppose due to teh cold nights. Also had a bag of laundry done. Socks, undies and a couple of t-shirts each. bAlt had read somewhere that lodges would not wask undies so we brought way too many. They did of course wash them...

another excellent spread for dinner


Less groups staying so the desserts weren't just about gone this time

 

[bPeteb]

I just realised that I missed downloading a whole lot of pictures from Hakusembe to Etosha including the dispay case at the bakkery


and out cottage and around the lodge from when we arrived

 

[bPeteb]

Sun 10 Aug

Up early for our second game drive at Etosha, this time on the truck.

Some early morning shots from around the lodge before we left for the park


Just like the day before a black rhino was there to greet us as we drove into the park.


We took a different route after visiting the same waterhole as the day before



then down closer to the pan. Misheck was on the lookout for lions.


The drive through quite thick bush near the pan yielded nothing. We then cut across where we had driven the day before and still nothing. The tracks were hilariously bad. I could hear people asking why don’t we just head for the next lodge.

 

[bPeteb]

I’m not sure if calls were being made but eventually we arrived at a different bore fed waterhole that was surrounded by gnu


and maybe these


and soon this


bumpy track was very quickly forgotten!!

 

[bPeteb]

Rhino, lions, springboks

The lions just chilled and decided to move on as bushy bushy was required.

The smelly long drop busy bushy was very close to being replaced by some very much nicer facilities. Much work was underway. The toilets and rest area was surrounded by a high fence with a guarded gate as it was up above another bore fed waterhole.

This waterhole was being visited by a large number of zebras, springbok, kudu and a couple of oryx (that we have found out are also called gembok).

 

[bPeteb]

We then drove back to the initial waterhole where the zoo had been joined by a giraffe.


The lions had moved down to the edge of the waterhole and there were actually four.


Sadly for the bloodthirsty freaks amongst us no chase was to happen. The lions eventually got up and just wandered off, threading their way between the throng of safari vehicles



last giraffe pic


That was just about it for Etosha. We stopped at the camp so that Misheck could pay for our visit, the group could use the loo, and to check out the camp’s own waterhole. Nothing much there. Apparently it is lit at night.

giant sociable weaver condo block near the camp waterhole

 

[bPeteb]

Once we got out of the park it was only 208 km to our next lodge.


Misheck offered the option of lunch back at Etosha Village or to stop on the road. I thought Etosha Village was a great option but it seemed I was alone, or everyone misunderstood what was being offered.

Instead we again stopped at Outja and the bakkery (yes, bakkery). I’m glad we didn’t stop at Etosha! Had to have another delicious sausage roll, of course


Super disappointed that we were not able to stay at the accommodation that was supplied in the itinerary for Damaraland. Misheck had gone through the accommodation at the intro meeting and the two places that I had picked out as my favourites had been replaced. Damaraland was supposed to be an amazing lodge called Ugab Terrace Lodge Ugab Terrace Lodge – Ugab Terrace Lodge, high up on an escarpment with each cottage perched on the cliff edge. Amazing according to kpc.

Instead we stayed at what is apparently Misheck’s favourite, another Gondwana property - Damara Mopane Lodge DAMARA MOPANE LODGE.

You drive up a very long paved driveway. All I could think about was the poor people who had to lay the pavers.


It’s a strange lodge of semi circles. Our cottages were all in the first row. We were in 3.


of colourful cottages, all with vege or herb garden.


Very nice inside the cottage,


but I thought the concept of cottages and manicured lawns weird in the middle of such an arid place.


Arrived in time for a swim in the chilly pool

 

[bPeteb]

and then a walk up to a viewing platform for sundowners.


Everyone loved this place except me. It was full of loud French and Germans.

Another nice buffet dinner. Misheck surprised Al and the lady celebrating her year of turning 80 by putting on two bottles of bubbles for their birthdays. Nice! We all sang them both happy birthday.

 

[ellen10]

Your wildlife photos are stunning! Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful trip report.

 

[kpc]

Your wildlife photos are stunning! Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful trip report.

@bPeteb has done an excellent job summarising the trip we also did with the same company but in reverse order from Windhoek to Vic Falls...we did not go to Cape Town where we have been before. It was a great trip and we covered > 3000kms in 14 days and his was 19 days so he would have travelled more. Some days were very long and tiring but the rewards along the way and at the destination were fantastic

 

[bPeteb]

Your wildlife photos are stunning! Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful trip report.

bAlt was in command of the Sony most of the time but maybe it's my editing

Thanks Ellen. We both very much enjoyed taking the photos

 

[RooFlyer]

It was cold enough for my Inca Trail snood to come out of retirement

I wish I had one of those - my face today is very wind burnt and peeling

Despite the heat of the days, the ppols were never anything than icy,

Also, my experience everywhere in Namibia

Just like the day before a black rhino was there to greet us as we drove into the park.

Same with us, same rhino, same place.

then down closer to the pan. Misheck was on the lookout for lions.

There were two in that exact spot when we visited

Everyone loved this place except me. It was full of loud French and Germans.

It was my least favourite accommodation too. Loud and cigar-smoking Germans.

 

[RooFlyer]

Well, I'm back in Windhoek and have just e-mailed my Travel Agent to get her looking for Chobe/Okavango tours for Sept next year, tacking on to a planned trip to Madagascar. I think the greener/more watery Chobe will be a new experience compared to the very arid Madikwe and Etosha.

@bPeteb did you hear anything that would suggest early Sept would be a poor time to visit?

Shall plan very closely based on your TR there - many thanks!

 

[kpc]

Well, I'm back in Windhoek and have just e-mailed my Travel Agent to get her looking for Chobe/Okavango tours for Sept next year, tacking on to a planned trip to Madagascar. I think the greener/more watery Chobe will be a new experience compared to the very arid Madikwe and Etosha.

@bPeteb did you hear anything that would suggest early Sept would be a poor time to visit?

Shall plan very closely based on your TR there - many thanks!

Sept should be fine. I personally thought Chobe Nat Park and Okavango River / Delta were more interesting than Etosha National Park. Make sure you do a heli ride over the Delta....we paid US$215 per person for 30 mins which I thought was reasonable