Of black maned lions and rampaging hippos

Ha! We did that 5km walk with (almost) gale force winds!! We were covered head to toe in dessert sand....2 days later I was still blowing sand out of my nose, and it was days before my ears were free of sand!

We got great shots of the dunes with the shadows and the dead trees at Deadvlei. It was the most challenging day of the trip!...(but enjoyable looking back!)
 
The wind had calmed down by the time we got back to Desert Camp. We went up to the bar and had a few bevvies before being driven back to the main lodge for dinner. Far fewer people this time, so much more pleasant.

This is what was in our shoes after the Big Daddy climb, even after we’d emptied them after running down the dune!
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the humungous socialble weaver nest in the tree beside our neighbours cottage
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The wind picked up again and howled all night. You could smell the dust/sand in the air in the room.
 
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Funny you should mention Madagascar. We were looking at that last night for next year. Mozambique also.

You may have seen the thread that @kpc started

I've contacted the tour mob that @Fruitloop used in their trip to Madagascar

and they seem right on the ball.

Going to miss kpc again - I'm planning on being there (plus Reunion and Mauritius) in September '25
 
You may have seen the thread that @kpc started

I've contacted the tour mob that @Fruitloop used in their trip to Madagascar

and they seem right on the ball.

Going to miss kpc again - I'm planning on being there (plus Reunion and Mauritius) in September '25
Sometimes the expedition cruise companies have repositioning cruises that visit some of these islands, at the end of their arctic/antarctic seasons.
It might be worthwhile keeping an eye out for one of these.
 
Sometimes the expedition cruise companies have repositioning cruises that visit some of these islands, at the end of their arctic/antarctic seasons.
It might be worthwhile keeping an eye out for one of these.
And the regular cruise ships as well. We have one booked in early 2026 visiting Seychelles, Reunion, Mauritius and Madagascar and on to Capetown.
 
Wed, 14 Aug
653 km. Super long drive and of course, some sealed, some very rough roads
Destination - Canyon Village, Gondwana Collection Namibia

Up in the dark due to the length of the drive and that Misheck wanted us at breakfast before the horrible European groups. He’d decided to change the route so that is was longer but also took us out to a sealed road.
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site plan of Desert Camp
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The stars were just amazing here. Photos with my iPhone just sat out on the edge of our porch
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off to breakfast in the dark
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the sun was up by the time we finished breakfast and hot the road
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One of the hlos (H) had been complaining since we set off. K was very quiet and quite pleasant really. He had worked in national parks at some time but described himself as a long retired teacher. Someone found our that H was paying for K. H complained about paying AU$12each for 20 days of porterage because they were hlo (weirdly their bags were loaded and unloaded from under the bus each day). Complaining about the lack of ventilation on the bus. Complaining about having to get up so early and have breakfast because H didn’t usually eat until 10.

H also had trouble choosing when confronted with a buffet so whereas everyone else would get in, eat, and have a meal finished, they went back multiple times and were always still eating when everyone else was ready to go. They sure didn’t seem to have an issue with eating at least three servings of breakfast at 6:30.

As everyone was just about ready to leave, one of the group came over and said that H had fallen and had cut her hand badly. H had somehow caught her foot on a ramp, overbalanced, dropped her dish/plate and fallen on it. That we were all finished and ready to go is a different matter entirely.

With the wound cleaned and dressed quicker than anyone expected, we headed off to Fish River.

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you can see the corrugations in this pic
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Bushy bushy was at a cool little cafe called Lily in a town called Maltahohe. Amazing stock. The date bun was delicious! All of their baked goods were.
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The re-route was fortuitous as it gave Misheck the opportunity to stop in Keetmanshoop at a chemist in an attempt to get some dressings for our wounded hlo. Ultimately we ended up giving H one of our larger waterproof dressings out of our travelling pharmac_.

We drove past some of the first vines we’d seen (there was a large dam providing irrigation to this area)
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date palm groves, a distillery
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and onto the gravel towards Canyon Village
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Canyon Village, Lodge and The Roadhouse are all inside a gigantic private reserve owned by Gondwana. I'm sure that Misheck said it has predators (lions, cheetahs, hyaenas) plus mountain zebras, giraffes and multiple kinds of antelopes, but I'd have to look that up and I'm now well overdue to get this report finished.
 
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Through some of the first vines we’d seen, date palm groves, a distillery and onto the gravel towards Canyon Village. CANYON VILLAGE

I was surprised when we’d been told this was tonight’s lodge as we’d been told we’d be staying at The Roadhouse instead. Canyon Village was another of my ‘really want to stay’ lodges so I was very happy with this surprise.

This is why I wanted to stay here, just wow.
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We only had a few minutes to refresh before back on the truck to go and see Fish River Canyon. It’s the second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon. We’re both going to say we could have given this a miss. Sorry folks, but a big canyon is a big canyon.
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The light here was quite awkward. We looked into the sun the entire time we were here.
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We walked along the canyon edge
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and misunderstood an instruction from Misheck so just about missed the sunset that he had intended to drive to another viewpoint to see.
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The canyon went dark and was a dark drive back to the lodge.

We should have just stayed at the amazing lodge and soaked it in. The lodge building is literally built around the boulders.
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Excellent dinner where you are served starter and desrt and get your main from a buffet
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What an amazing place.
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We’d realised as we were getting ready for bed that we’d left our toothbrushes and toothpaste back at Desert camp. Yuk!! We’d be searching every place we stopped to replace asap.
 
We got up early in the morning in the hope that maybe they had tooth gear in the small lodge shop. No luck, but, they had them in the staff shop!! Win!!

Spent some time wandering around the lodge. It is truly beautiful. I think the trip should stay here two nights and offer a canyon tour and game drive during a full day, instead of rushing to the canyon at the end of a very long drive.
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One of the Goondiwindi dames had not been well for a few days. Her activity had started to drop away, and she'd hardly been running around from the start. Eating less, even no whiskey with dinner. The group was asking how she was but we kept getting the same stoic response. On the way to Canyon Village L had started to vomit but neither she, her travelling companion, or anyone on the truck, said anything to Misheck.

bAlt and I were very concerned. We both expected to hear a helicopter evacuation overnight.

L boarded the truck and looked terrible. She'd pecked at brekkie but that was about it. B was very dismissive when any of us asked - “she’s improving”. Just bs

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Lots of mountain zebras spotted as we drove out of the reserve. They can be identified by their stripes going right down their legs.
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Out onto the sealed road for a bit and we called into Keetmanshoop again. The truck was given a very impressive clean while it was fuelled. That front window definitely needed a wash!
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Do we, do we not? We’d asked if we could drink beers onboard and although told we could, if discreet, we chose not to.
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While we were stopped I was tempted to say something to Misheck about L’s condition as I knew the town had a big hospital
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but sadly said nothing.
 
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Stopped for an impromptu geology lesson not far out of town. Very interesting stuff for some of us. We’re both loving the rock formations
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As you can see we were back on gravel
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Some smooth, some not so smooth. We had a meeting with another Kiboko bus on its way up to Vic Falls. This is a group of campers.
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Back out onto the tar. The sociable weavers make good use of the power poles.
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We saw some nests that had come off the pole and were just hanging on the wires.

We reached the border crossing and walked across from Namibia into South Africa.
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L seemed a bit perkier. Maybe things were on the mend.

We were now in the Kalahari. Misheck talked briefly about the water supply. I’m sure he asked us to look out to one side of the bus to see a water pipe. I couldn’t see it. I’m sure he said it was piped from x river but just don’t remember. What I do remember him saying is that the water is awful in the Kalahari and do not drink it unless you want to sit on the loo for a day afterwards.

One bit of news that had given Misheck a boost was that our lodge had changed back to Kgalagadi Lifestyle Lodge where we had originally been staying. Until he announced it on the drive, the plan had been to stay at Molopo Kalahari Lodge Molopo Kalahari Lodge - NC Famous Lodges

Really lovely lodge but 60 km from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. This was what this two night stop was all about. Misheck would drive in for an afternoon drive, then head back the next morning for a half day drive, meaning two 120 km round trips.

On the drive along the dry river bed that separates SA from Botswana he called to arrange lunch at Kgalagadi Lifestyle Lodge Kgalagadi Lifestyle Lodge – Where rugged terrain and luxury meet – Kgalagadi Lifestyle Lodge is a family owned / operated business with it’s main objective to offer only the best service and product to the weary traveler. You are invited to join us in making your holiday a memorable one.

Pizza and salads (too many of both) organised for all (except for the hlos of course).
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Pizza, beer and salad (that I had to charge to my room!)
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then a drive up and a quick tour of our very cute little cottage
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then into the park we drove. Met at the park gates by a yellow mongoose
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then lots of ground squirrels
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Then bAlt spotted some meerkats!! I could hear no Russian accents
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No idea why this ground squirrel was hanging around with Sergei
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Wildlife was pretty scarce. The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is gigantic - 38,000 sq km and straddles the border of Botswana and South Africa Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - Wikipedia

We saw oryx and a few springboks, but the water holes we called at had no visitors except for a few birds. Apparently they are usually surrounded by animals.

Finally a few gnu made an appearance but that was it for the afternoon.
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Dinner was included. We dished up the leftover pizza and salads from lunch. I had a game pie. It was ok, but as with some of the other game meals had little tiny minced up bones in it. bAlt’s ribs were much better. The beer was excellent 🙂
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As always, a beautiful African sunrise greeted us.
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A simple breakfast buffet, with a couple of hot selections, before we headed in for the morning drive. If we’d been at Molopo we would have just had one, but being just a few km from the gate meant we would have morning and afternoon drives. Two of the group decided to give the morning drive a miss after the lacklustre animal experience the afternoon before.

Sadly, it was really a bit more of the same. Plenty of birds, lots of gnu and springbok, some oryx. The lions and cheetah stayed just over that ridge, or that one.
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We stopped at an old farmers cottage that had been restored. I can’t imagine what it must have been like arriving here from Scotland.
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I managed to briefly see a secretary bird but was too slow to get my camera or phone out in time to get a shot. Gladly bAlt saw it as well.

Kori bustard, followed by some ostrich
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summer melons, loved by both animals and the bushman
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We went back to the lodge for lunch
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where the resident emu made an appearance. I thought that I was seeing things. Noone could tell us how and why it was there.
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The afternoon again found every waterhole with zero animals.
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The highlight was finding another Kiboko bus getting towed out of the sand where it had been bogged. Lancruiser 70 series utes are beasts
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This group was camping inside the park at the campground right at the entrance. As they drove past bAlt high fived the grinning driver.

Kgalagadi was an unusual experience. The landscape of vegetated dunes was magnificent but the lack of ‘new’ wildlife was a let down. Maybe the Cape Town to Vic Falls tour would provide a different experience in that you start slow and end with a bang. We’d started with a humongous fireworks display, and the final three drives were more birthday sparkler.

Chicken burger, a very good steak and some nice rose to end the stay with
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L had come to dinner and seemed a bit perkier again but this time her friend B said quietly that she was worried about her and had spoken to Misheck. Hmmm…
 
Sat, 17 Aug, 323 km

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yep, another beautiful sunrise
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We stopped at the bushman camp at the intersection out onto the main road. Uncle and nephew. The uncle was a lovely guy, the nephew a little shy. What a life being a photo opportunity for travellers. I gladly handed over some money, but how sad.
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Then out onto sealed roads for the trip to Kakamas.
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More salt pans on the way to the start of the wine regions
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Tomato flavoured chips! Sure not Samboy 🙂
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We drove through Upington, and interesting town full of buildings that could be anywhere
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I’d seen something in the distance as we’d approached the town that made me quite excited
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it was clearly a concentrated solar collector and that is exactly what it was/is. I even knew it was Spanish tech. I remember seeing something on tv many, many years ago about these. Beyond 2000 maybe?

Apparently there’s more than one of these in SA. They generate large amounts of power, and in a place that gets approx 360 days of sunshine a year (this one near Upington) that is not at all surprising. The power is stored in molten salt for all those “but what happens when the sun isn’t shining?” people. Why are there none of these here??
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We arrived at our hotel in Kakamas Home - Kakamas Hotel and the hlos were complaining again. “Why aren’t we staying in the town?” They wanted to shop for their own food and not have to cough up at the hotel. Just grrrr.

the hotel is surrounded by vineyards
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More importantly Misheck had announced on the drive to the hotel that he would drop us off and then would be taking L to the local hospital. Things had deteriorated.

So that’s what he did, then came back to take us to Augrabies Falls National Park https://www.sanparks.org/parks/augrabies-falls

more vineyards on the way to the national park. We all commented on the unusual way the grapes are grown
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a quiver tree
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crazy rock dome
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